Shengze, A Textile City, Seeks Development Through Innovation

Shengze Spin Industry related enterprises generally feel the pressure of operation this year. Many enterprises have begun to innovate, open the market with new products and new models, and achieve "counterattack".

When driving on Sujia Hangzhou Expressway near the Shengze town area, the contents of the highway billboard are different from other places. Textile mill On the advertisement, the boss has his own cell phone number. Thousands of textile enterprises and textile merchants from north to South gathered here to form a textile ocean. This is China's largest textile manufacturing base and one of the national fabric export bases. The town currently has more than 2400 weaving enterprises and produces 13 billion meters of textile products each year.

Jiangsu Shengze Town, the world textile industry Center. From one of the four ancient silk capital to today's super industrial cluster Town, which is mainly composed of chemical fiber and textile, and one of the center of textile price formation in the world, Shengze is the epitome of the development of China's textile industry.

A new round of recession is coming. Under the cloudy cloud of overcapacity and the increasingly cramped soil in the real business environment, Shengze's textile related enterprises generally feel the pressure of operation this year, and feel that the next few years will be a tough day. At the same time, many enterprises are making innovations to open up the market with new products and new models and achieve "counterattack". Fierce competition and innovation, the core functions of these two industrial cluster forms are constantly being staged here.

Excessive expansion and serious excess capacity

Recall the time from 2010 to the first half of 2011. Textile mill The owners felt that it was really a feast.

"At that time, orders were too numerous to finish." Xie Qinkui, HSBC's textile boss, said with a smile.

Liu Xuewen, general manager of Jiangsu Qun textile, mentioned the first Financial Daily reporter. At that time, every production of one metre cloth often earned 35 cents, and the production capacity of the textile mill was huge. If we could maintain such a high profit, the prospect would be too great.

As early as 2007, the textile industry had a large area of overcapacity. In 2008, the financial crisis eliminated a number of production capacity, and the surviving enterprises stayed until 2010, and spring came.

Cycles are like seasons. After 2011, the capacity of the textile industry expanded again, and gradually formed the overcapacity situation this year.

at present textile industry The industry matching system is already very mature, and the newly established factory will start from the beginning to the production, if it is quick, it will only take four months.

"A factory of a small size can produce 1 million meters of cloth a day, which is equivalent to 1 million trousers produced in a factory every day. Think about it." A textile mill owner said.

How fast is the capacity expansion? The owner of the textile mill has cited several examples in Jiangsu. Take Xuzhou Xinyi as an example, in the past five years, Xinyi's new textile industry has exceeded the sum of the previous 15 years. In the past, there were only about 200 loom looms in Xinyi, and now there are more than 2500. A large number of textile mills have moved into or built in Huaian and Suqian. HSBC textile set up a factory in Suqian in 2009.

Capacity expansion is now much easier than it was 15 years ago. For example, mechanical equipment, one. Water jet loom It was imported from Japan before, and the price per unit was about 300 thousand yuan. In recent years, with the continuous improvement of the price ratio of domestic machinery and equipment, the purchase of domestic equipment has become the first choice for many textile mills. Each loom often can be finished at about 40 thousand yuan, and it can be returned in a year if it is fast.

Local governments play an important role in capacity expansion. Several textile enterprises responsible persons mentioned to our newspaper reporters that some less developed areas are inviting investment, spare no effort, land and factory buildings are almost free, and help coordinate loans and tax concessions. The textile mills are finally able to open new factories with almost no capital contribution.

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Restore balance or eliminate half capacity.

Steady demand and capacity expansion. Textile fabrics Prices began to slide.

"Imitation silk earned one or two yuan per meter last year, and this year it is generally 5 gross loss per meter, mainly due to the excessive capacity expansion in the second half of last year." A textile enterprise owner said, "now the money back is slow, in the past one month, now three months is also difficult, bank liquidity loan is difficult to engage in, two is interest is too high, at least ten percent, great pressure."

In his view, the vast majority of varieties are overcapacity. "Some 1.2 yuan / meter processing costs, 0.9 yuan to sell, people do not want to, do not sell the warehouse, what to do?"

Statistics also confirm this pressure. Shengze issued the commentary on the "50 index" of China's Shengze silk chemical fiber index in June. It said: "in the first half of this year, the order of weaving enterprises decreased by 20% compared to the previous year, and profit margins shrank by nearly 15% on the basis of higher raw material prices and increased labor costs. There are not many hot products in the market. clothing Fabrics, functional fabrics and individual home textile fabrics are the main products. Fabric The pressure of inventory is relatively large, causing some manufacturers to have capital turnover ahead of schedule this year, and the market atmosphere is diffuse.

In terms of inventory and start up rate, the above report mentioned: "in June, the grey fabric weaving in Shengze area was 34~35 days, and some of the higher stocks were 45 days or higher. At present, there is a large backlog of conventional fabric inventory, and the start-up rate of the factory has been slightly reduced. The water injection rate and air-jet loom start rate is 70%, and the partial high boot rate is maintained at 80%, while the low startup is less than 50%. The warp knitting machine starts more than 80%, and the overall market operation pressure is greater."

Liu Xuewen believes that in the next few years, the textile industry will be able to regain balance by eliminating about half of its capacity.

As for the way of adjusting the industry, a textile enterprise leader thinks that the second-hand equipment of the small factory is not wanted at all, that is, waiting for death, there will basically be no "big eat little" way of mergers and acquisitions.

Affected by the textile industry, the upstream chemical fiber and machinery industry also felt a lot of pressure.

"Over the years, before the Spring Festival, the price of chemical fiber dropped, and the price rises after the Spring Festival. This is a normal rule. After the Spring Festival, the decline of chemical fiber is not a good omen." Liu Xuewen said.

A textile machinery industry official told this reporter: "in the past few years is really making money, not this year, straight down. We can only do our best to maintain the old customers, see their replacement or equipment maintenance needs, and develop new customers with great care.

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Winning by innovation

According to the industrial cluster theory of famous scholar Michael Porter, the continuous innovation caused by intense competition pressure is Industrial Cluster One of the core strengths. This is very evident in Shengze.

A textile Fabric trade The head of the enterprise told our reporter that in Shengze, new products will be produced almost every day. If a new product is to seize the market quickly, earn ten million yuan a year and earn three yuan per meter, the boss will earn tens of millions a year, and this industry will sometimes make an opportunity of ten years. But innovation is risky. If it fails, it will suffer losses.

"In our market, new products are produced every day. The life cycle of new products is only one or two months or shorter, and it is generally counterfeited." He pointed to a gray cloth. "Like this cashmere, when it first came out, it was 1.89 meter yuan, and now it's only four yuan. After imitating cashmere innovation, earning half a year's money and then rushing to it, there is no profit.

Textile is different from other industries, it is technically difficult to innovate patent protection. After analyzing the fabric, the density of warp or weft density can be adjusted to produce almost identical products without infringing upon the patent right. In Shengze, we have no time to look after him. Only by fierce competition can we innovate, innovate and innovate.

Compared with the small and medium enterprises in the Red Sea, the size and R & D capabilities of the enterprises are in a much better position. Many enterprises have broken through a new path through innovation.

An example is the "Shang Kai Kai" series of song brocade craft products. When the traditional silk industry is under increasing pressure, Wu Jianhua, the boss of Dingsheng silk company, chooses to make high-end consumer goods.

Dingsheng silk has gradually produced many kinds of products such as Song Jin handbags, bedding, purses and so on. At present, there are thousands of terminal consumer goods, including men and women's handbags, wallets, neckties, fashion, etc. Home textiles And works of art.

The idea of Dingsheng silk is to lock the three key words of "cultural heritage, fashion and practicality".

Suzhou has thousands of years of "Song brocade" silk production technology, its cultural heritage is beyond doubt. But with the changing times, complex manual weaving and expensive production cost, song brocade rarely had any market and became a living fossil.

With the modification of artificial artifice and weaving of digital technology, Dingsheng silk has increased the pattern of song brocade, its design is exquisite and fashionable.

In 2009, Wu Jianhua bought the Soochow silk factory of Suzhou, a poorly run state-owned enterprise. The predecessor of the Soochow silk factory was the Qing Dynasty's "upper long Kai silk cloth Village", which activated the elegant character of "Shang Kai Kai".

In terms of design, Wu Jianhua founded a design studio in Italy and hired in France. Designer In order to maintain the elegance and elegance of song brocade, fashion sense is added. Products such as handbags are also printed in Italy to ensure quality and finally to China.

"Let the Italian design, the cost can also be, not as expensive as most people think." Wu Jianhua pointed to the design drawing from Italy on the phone.

After the design of Italy, we will investigate and solicit opinions from customers, and finally feedback and finalize them.

" Textile industry The competition is so fierce that everything is done well and rushing headlong into mass action. I have to avoid this trap, so I want to go to the high-end and the highest end. I sell ten thousand yuan, and you fight for hundreds of dollars, and I have nothing to do with it. " Wu Jianhua said.

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　 "Fabric Silicon Valley"

In addition to the above examples of business model innovation, there is also an example of technological innovation.

A staff member of a domestic chemical fiber giant in Shengze told our reporter that their products were high and medium end. This year, "they can still be". The production and sales of chemical fiber products are basically flat.

In his view, as the raw material of textile industry, the demand of chemical fiber products is very large, and the market demand for product quality and performance is rising. A typical product of the company's new road to innovation is memory. fibre 。 In terms of upstream raw materials for memory fiber, the biotech PDO project built by the company will be put into operation in 2013. After the breakthrough of PTT polyester synthesis technology in the company, the cost of the PTT polyester product of the company is 15000~16000 yuan / ton, which is significantly lower than the monopoly price of the current DuPont Co 21500 yuan / ton. This makes the price of PTT polyester fiber fall sharply at the same time, and greatly opens up the use field of PTT fiber. The enterprise and China's chemical fiber industry have gained great competitiveness in the field of PTT polyester fiber.

Shengze has been vigorously promoting scientific research.

Since this year, Shengze town has accelerated the construction of postdoctoral scientific research workstation. At present, the town has 7 National Postdoctoral research workstations, ranking the first in Wujiang. This year, the town has added 3 new reporting units.

The first postdoctoral workstation in Shengze town was established in February 2003 as the postdoctoral research station of Wujiang Oriental silk Limited by Share Ltd, Jiangsu. In June 2008, postdoctoral workstation was approved in Jiangsu Shengze National Silk spark intensive area. The post doctoral workstation of Jiangsu Shengze National Silk spark intensive area has been set up as the regional terminal, and 5 sub stations have been set up, all of which are national post doctoral workstations.

Building China's "fabric Silicon Valley" is the core driving force for Shengze to lead the transformation and upgrading of the textile industry. With the application of modern textile technology, Shengze's textile products have been covered with spinning, silk, chemical fiber fabrics, interwoven fabrics, home textiles, industrial fabrics, clothing and so on. textile machinery And so on. Especially in recent years, Shengze town has continuously improved all kinds of fabric systems, and already has 17 state-level textile research and development bases, such as sports, leisure, men's wear and winter clothing.