Thom Browne Doing Business Rules
< p > "I only know I need to be in business. I am more stubborn, but I am not a fool." < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank". Designer /a Thom Browne said when he talked about how to balance commerce and art.
"Fashion is also a business. In concept, you can do exactly what you want, but you must make sure it is a business. We must do everything around a business rule."
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< p > obviously, Thom Browne knows two sides of a coin.
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< p > on the one hand, he is like a circus boss. Every fashion show will bring unexpected drama to people.
This was quite notable in the spring 2013 men's week. The fashion show was held in the Paris garden. The silver makeup model stood on the T stage like a robot, emphasizing the men's clothing that is worth showing off.
In the autumn and winter of 2011, his dress show was held in the London public library. The models wore a rough pattern inspired by nurses. They wrapped their heads in scarves, and the spherical overalls made their bodies hide to the greatest extent.
Thom Browne is infected by many natural disasters in the world. He hopes to show mercy and love for all things in design.
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< p > Thom Browne estimates that the design of the fashion show has been bought by 80~90%. (now, there are more than 160 buyers in the Thom Browne fashion show, among which the US Brooks Brothers is a regular customer, and the Black Fleece series developed by them has a history of 7 years). This is a celebration figure.
These personalized fashion shows are hard to relate to the designer in front of them: the hair is always trimmed neatly, and the inspiration comes from the grey a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank" in the 50 and 60s of last century. The key is that the sleeves and trousers length of the clothes are very short.
His brightly colored sweatshirts, T-shirts and knitwear are decorated with elaborate tricolor stripes, which are just like shortening coats and trousers.
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< p > < strong > work middle school how to do < /strong > < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank" > strong > dress > /strong > /a > < /a > business.
< p > 2013 can be said to be the lucky year of Thom Browne. First of all, Michelle Obama chose a silk jacquard jacket and dress in his women's show, and then went to the second inauguration ceremony of Obama.
Michelle Obama's appreciation has made many contributions to him. Even taxi drivers have known the name of Thom Browne.
In March, he opened second stores in Aoyama area in Japan, hoping to open the Japanese market.
Subsequently, he won the title of the best men's wear designer in CFDA2013.
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< p > all the honors and progress make Browne happy, knowing that everything is childhood and he dare not think about it.
In 1965, Browne was born in an Irish Catholic family. He grew up in the Rust Belt town of Allentown, Pennsylvania, where there was hardly any fashion.
"I never thought of any fashion," he recalls.
"You don't even know that it exists. When you go to a store, you never consider who designed it and who made it.
To a certain extent, it is a daily necessities.
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< p > he used to wear gray soft flannel jacket in his childhood and wore navy blue sweater and brown trousers in summer, which affected his aesthetic taste.
"These are the very basic American casual wear that I grew up wearing, and now I often appear in my press conference."
Browne said.
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< p > because Browne was far away from fashion at that time, and he was more interested in sports and learning.
From the age of 9, he swam for hours every day. Later, as a student of a comprehensive university in Indiana, he became a member of the swimming team.
Maybe that's why there are always some sports elements in his design, such as trenches coat with tennis racket patterns, white tuxedo matches with tennis mesh sportswear decorated with football.
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After graduating from P, Browne went to Losangeles to find a job. With excellent athletic ability and a clear face, he became an actor.
At that time, he began experimenting with some worn coats, washing them and drying them in a rotary dryer, and then cut them short. This is the prototype of his design in reducing the profile.
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In 1998, he gave up his career as an actor and came to New York, and quickly found a job in Giorgio Armani. It was still a very important position.
"I needed a job at that time, and this job happened to be related to fashion."
He recalls.
Later, he arrived at Polo Ralph Lauren's brand Club Monaco, leading his creative development team.
There he learned to design slender trousers, cardigan and Oxford shirts.
"I didn't really think about how to approach design," Browne said. "But these experiences taught me how to make clothes and do business."
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< p > it is important that these jobs give him access to Rocco Ciccarelli, a tailor tailored for Club Monaco. These old craftsmen named "tailor" tailor have their own skills. Rocco Ciccarelli is good at making suits.
"I learned almost everything from Rocco."
Browne said.
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< p > < strong > faithful to oneself < /strong > /p >
In 2001, when he decided to start his own brand, the market of men's wear was highly unified. Browne found a breakthrough from it. "I like wearing jackets and trousers. I hope that if men can't find their clothes or dress like this, they can follow my example." P
I think if I like this dress, other people will like it, so that's how it started.
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< p > "at that time, most men's clothing had no special features. Young people wore little difference from their parents. I would like to introduce some tailored clothes to make them look as young and comfortable as jeans and T-shirts."
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At the beginning of the P, he designed 5 suits, all gray, the length and sleeves of his coat were shorter, and the length of trousers was shorter than that of the ordinary trousers.
Browne feels that if he wants to stick to something, he must do his best and become an example in this industry.
"I make suits for myself, and then wear these suits on various occasions. People will ask where they are bought. I told them that if you want to get a set, I can do it for you."
Such strategies played a certain role, but they also had limitations, so the customers of Browne were limited to some artists.
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< p > "everyone told me to change," he recalls.
"They told me to make their coat and trousers longer. I don't know why people think so, but now these designs have become personalities and accepted.
It was Colette and Bergdorf Goodman who first supported me, and later more people became supporters of this trend.
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After P affirmed, Browne began to expand the clothing line for men and women, but his custom business has been retained. "This is where I started my fashion business, and it is also an important part of my a href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_s.asp "commercial" /a "layout.
At the beginning of my career, I said, "I like young people to have adventurous ideas for designing their own clothes."
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< p > he is also obsessed with telling adventure stories in every season's fashion show.
"For fashion shows, I prefer to tell a story close to design rather than a purely commercial behavior.
I like conceptualization, because it makes every season's business more interesting.
The story will be staged every 6 months, and the outstanding part will become better and better with the development of fashion show.
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< p > 2009, due to market reasons, Browne sold most of its shares to Japanese Multinationals Cross Co for 6 million 300 thousand US dollars.
"They know why I do shows. Why do I play my own way, why do I introduce those classic parts?
They never questioned why I should do so.
He explained, "with their capital injection and management, I have more energy to design and make men's wear, women's clothing and customization develop together in 3 ways."
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Under the support of strong backing, Browne will launch a new product line in autumn and winter 2014. Its target customers are high-income groups, mainly offering classic grey suits, shirts, jackets and neckties for high-end department stores. The price of the suits starts at 2200 US dollars, and the shirts start at 350 US dollars. P
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< p > "I wear shortens, but not everyone wears the same way I do.
That is to say, not everyone will think about the same problem as I do. The goal of this new product line is those that do not like my fashion show, but I want to have men who really make hand-made products or they like something in my fashion show, but they want to get closer to the work wear.
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At the same time, when p < > a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_s.asp" > business < /a >, Browne also warns herself that the most important thing is to be loyal to herself, especially if she wants to develop in the fashion circle for a long time, then she must insist on the truth of her career.
"Now I am going to think about what to change, but I did shake it in the early days. I don't know what I will do if the problem is not solved, but thank God for all the problems I have encountered."
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