Where Is The Designer'S Advanced Garment?
Every garment starts with inspiration from the designer, and the designer will sketch out all the design details and sewing points on the sketch.
Many people will ask, where is the advanced clothing?
The design concept of a garment is only in the mind of the designer. The designer must draw his own inspiration with paper and pen. Most of the designers will also point out the design details and sewing points of all the new fashions on their own sketches.
After that, these dream sketches will be delivered to the tailor in the studio.
When the fabric is selected, the tailor will show its talents.
Many of the garments are made of multi - dimensional tailoring. The tailoring method originally used in advanced custom fashion is very ergonomic and designed to make clothes more comfortable and natural.
CocoChanel once said, "luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it will be empty."
The design of a coat, pocket and sleeve must be based on comfort and ability to move hands.
If it's just a piece of finished garment, it's very difficult for everyone to wear it.
Anyone who knows how to cut clothes will know that if a garment is sewn into 8 pieces, it will be a good job, and a Chanel coat will have more than 50 pieces inside and outside. They stitch together with stitches every few centimeters to maintain shape and ensure comfort.
The multi - piece sewn coat can automatically adjust and recover the most suitable position when moving or stationary.
Each piece is further reserved for seam size, which can be enlarged or reduced by about one size and can be modified according to the shape of the guest.
So many pieces are made from plain cotton cloth. All the type of cloth needed for a coat must be cut out in plain cotton cloth.
Cheap and easy tailored plain cotton cloth can be described as a "test field" for tailors. The tailor will fix all cotton pattern pins on a wooden human figure - the human figure should be the first model of every designer. - the tailor must strictly follow the tailoring cut and proportion cut out by the designer's design.
After repeated attempts and modifications of the plain cotton cloth, the tailor will put the ribbon on the coat and make a mark of the tailoring line, and mark the whole block of the whole coat.
It's not as easy as you imagine to stitch together so many pieces.
The back, side, front and two sleeves of the dress must be pieced together in strict proportion.
Just as every brand has a chief designer, each workshop will have a chief tailor who will check every detail in the process of making copies to ensure that the overall proportion meets the designer's requirements.
The classic fabric twill is a fabric that needs extremely fine sewing. If it is not aligned, it will easily cause skew. This is a very rigorous test for the tailor's stitching work.
And the work of trimming the lace on the side of the dress is also very technical. It wants to give the twill the soft edge of the fabric to ensure that it will not deform for a long time.
Many luxury brands also add their own logo and unique technology to their costumes. They can tell the names of their brands only by looking at their finished products.
For example, Dior will show their flower stories in high fashion. Burberry's windbreaker is always checked. Prada uses Aguagliati to make dreams. Chanel also moves unique Lesage embroidery onto her coat -- each of them will spend more than 40 hours on the handwork of the Lesage embroidery workshop.
In the fashion of luxury, details are very important, even when they are not seen, they are very delicate.
A ready-made garment is also carefully selected. For example, jacquard silk making coat liner has the characteristics of silk and other natural fibers, which can make the coat have good air permeability, and some silk can even be retractable.
And a garment does not sag, it will give people a sense of cheapness and frivolity.
CocoChanel has carefully stitched metal chains into the lower edge of the undergarment, which ensures that the hem is smooth, increased the sag and the stiffness of the clothes, and does not damage the version of the coat.
The details of an advanced garment are also reflected on buttons.
KarlLagerfeld once said that buttons were also selected by himself in the clothes he designed.
Every inch of his clothes is marked with his mark.
Critics say that button masters are making buttons with jewelry.
The buttons that came out of Paris button shop Desrues conform to the European ancient method of advanced uniforms, and add milk to the resin raw materials, so that button color and cloth match perfectly, and will not fade.
After finishing these details, it will be trial fitting and final modification. Designers, studio directors and chief tailors will be assembled to participate in the fitting of clothes and assign the final revision.
Yang Jing: editor in charge
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