Can American Fashion Really Conquer The Asian Fashion Market?

Just follow World Cup All of them will soon become the Copa America. We must lament the fact that Europe, which is obviously the origin of modern civilization, is not only economically depressed but also facing unprecedented crises in traditional sports and competitive sports. Well, again, it is clear that it is the absolute strength of big Europe: Huan Xun! But with the money and smart business that the flower can't afford, the United States is now beginning to rise up in fashion and swear to win the big flavor market in the eyes of all the fashion brands.

For journalists, it is fair to say that although the American style is the most typical Gap, and the Japanese style uniforms are different from those of the Japanese uniforms, the Gap emphasizes the bright and bright colors and not so much about the cultivation of the body. These two years are threatening. Gap, A&F and Hollister all have a heart to conquer the world. But when it comes to whether they look good or not, it is really another matter. Relatively speaking, the entry money is no problem, but to further explore, the European refined and design precipitation, that is, in line with those more advanced fashion demand, the United States is barefoot estimation also has to chase for many years, only then can catch up with Europa.

but business Well, it's another story. No, it's known as the American elitist and the first lady of the United States, Michel Obama. J.Crew is determined to return to the Asian market. After the total withdrawal from the Japanese market in 2008, customers in the Asian region could only buy through J.Crew's online store, but clothes could not be tried on, or there was something missing. In 2012, J.Crew, a store in Hongkong, was officially returned. Recently, with the opening of two J.Crew independent stores in Hongkong, the brand revealed the ambition to re open the Asian market. Come on, tell me, do you care about J.Crew? Speaking frankly, will you pay for it?

J.Crew, a fashionable clothing brand born with elitism, has been doing a good job in the North American market and even trained high-end fans such as the first lady Michel Obama. However, this "careful" clothing company's ambition is more than that. It should take the new century's May flower to go to Britain to open up territory.

In November 6, 2013, London Regent Street, dozens of trembling British fashion bloggers, TV celebrities and celebrities are winding long queues, waiting patiently to enter the J.Crew flagship store's opening ceremony. In the hall, men with moustache wear narrow tie and wear a tailored suit. Among them are princess Kate and Pippa Middleton James (James Middleton) of Pippa Middleton. Ladies dressed in long skirts and short skirts, tonal the delicate colors of cashmere products on the table. This is the largest of three J.Crew stores opened in London in November, with an area of about 1580 square meters. Two people at the party stayed on the stairs leading to the two floor. "Wow! That's Mickey and Jenna." One of them pointed to J.Crew chief executive, Mickey, Drexler (Millard "Mickey" Drexler) and creative director and chief executive Jenna Lyons (Jenna Lyons), in a wording tone. Drexler was dressed in a navy blue suit and white dress shirt. Lyons wore bright green leather shoes and her trademark super large black frame glasses. There is a photo booth and champagne cocktail in the assembly hall, which is unbelievable and funny, because anyway, it's just J.Crew.

As soon as the world cup becomes a "Copa America", we must lament the fact that Europe, which is obviously the origin of modern civilization, has not only failed economically, but also encountered unprecedented crises in traditional sports and competitive sports. Well, again, it is clear that it is the absolute strength of big Europe: Huan Xun! But with the money and smart business that the flower can't afford, the United States is now beginning to rise up in fashion and swear to win the big flavor market in the eyes of all the fashion brands.

The store on Regent Street shows some British sentiments, such as the model wearing the hat of the British royal guard. In addition, the shop furnishings are suitable in Ohio, Nevada and New York. It is quite artistic here. The latest design of the Lyons team is displayed in the shop, which is exactly the same as the styles of shops sold across the United States -- women's narrow leg jeans, old denim shirts, some retro feel men's lattice shirts and khaki casual pants with body trimming. Lyons said that there was a moment when someone proposed to make a slight adjustment to the product series to make it more English style, but "we have our own perspective." It's a great feeling to be able to bring our design overseas. This includes a wide range of products, from hair accessories to hand-made Weil Island sweaters, to a $1800 jacket. The overall style of clothing is defined as leisure, fashion, style, money and youthful vigor. It's completely American. An Englishman in tweed dress looked at a baseball cap with awe.

Of course, J.Crew has always been selling shorts, but not Lyons's $425 leather shorts. In 1983, the first catalogue of J.Crew was sent to thousands of households in the United States. In the album, the models wore a pleated collar shirt and double breasted coat, and their faces were ruddy and bright. As a branch of Direct Selling Company Popular Merchandise Inc., the brand is specifically aimed at such a group of consumers: they yearn for the beautiful life embodied in the Ralph Lauren brand, but on the other hand, they hope the price will be lower. J.Crew was a great success. In 1990, Arthur Sinad Cinader, the founder of the company, told New York Times that the annual growth rate of J.Crew reached 25% to 30%. By 1988, that is, the first year that J.Crew opened the first store in New York South Street Seaport, its annual sales volume reached 100 million US dollars. In 1990,

In the mid 90s of last century, Americans learned to distinguish between J.Crew's grey green and light purple sweater. The door mat of the suburb was filled with J.Crew crumpled Brown parcels, and the university campus was full of college students wearing casual jackets and turtleneck sweaters. But by 1997, due to the higher cost of postal delivery and the confusion of management, J.Crew suffered a failure. The Sinad family sold 60% of its shares to TPG, the investment company, at a price of $560 million and gave up its daily management rights. The company went through three CEO in three years.

Meanwhile, Drexler is building Gap as the largest clothing chain in the world. Under his leadership, Gap acquired the Banana Republic brand, launched the Old Navy brand, and made khakis become the fashion trend. He raised Gap's revenue from $400 million to $about 14000000000, but by 2002, he made a series of wrong strategic decisions. The most familiar mistake is that he tried to make Gap more avant garde. This led to Gap's loss for 29 consecutive months, which eventually led to his resignation.

In the same year, J.Crew announced a loss of $about 40000000. The brand is already out of breath, reminiscent of the scenes in the American drama Friends. When the J.Crew board contacted Drexler and hoped that he would take over the company, he could not refuse. As he said, J.Crew was "a great brand with a better fashion image than Gap". In 2006, with the promotion of Drexler, J.Crew went public.

In 2010, he sold the company back to TPG and private Holdings Company Leonard Green & Partners at a price of nearly $3 billion. The deal sparked controversy: it was reported that Drexler was currying favor with the buyer in the absence of the board of directors, and said he had ignored the bidding agent outside of TPG. He refused to discuss the matter but said, "fashion itself is not pure commerce. Most of the shareholders in the open market are very short-sighted."

In November 2013, J.Crew issued $500 million worth of bonds and paid dividends to owners. This prompted speculation that J.Crew could carry out initial public offering (IPO) or sale in the next two years. Drexler declined to comment, but in an earlier conversation, he said, "maintaining Private Companies status is more interesting."

Since 2010, with the help of Drexler, Lyons has gradually become a visionary figure in the company. "When we consider a product, as long as Drexler is there, it's not just" is the price appropriate? How many sets should we buy? "But" do we like it? Is it really good? Is it what we want? "Lyons said.

The design and business teams of J.Crew are all located in headquarters. The two areas are almost indistinguishable. There are clothes shelves hanging around J.Crew. Drexler's voice is coming out through a loudspeaker, and everyone will turn his eyes in a friendly way. Most of the 4900 employees were women, who conveyed Lyons's thoughts as if they were childish and dressed J.Crew soldiers.

In 2006, J.Crew acquired the brand name of Madewell, a clothing brand, which was used for young women's leisure independent brands. Now the brand has 64 stores. In the same year, J.Crew relaunched its children's clothing brand Crewcuts, which included $88, a girl's dress with jewel ornaments, and a boy's hat for $65.

A few years ago, the company executives began to think about London, but "never before, it was like" it's time to start a massive global expansion! "Wardle said. She said that J.Crew is still developing in the United States, but focuses more on exclusive stores. And the brand is so cordial to people that it is feasible to enter London. "We are definitely not pioneers." Drexler said, "we did our own brand research, and then it became a very relaxed decision." Wardle agreed with him, but he also had reservations: "do I feel worried?" Then she smiled bitterly and said, "of course, I am very anxious."

"Historically, the expansion of fashion brands overseas has been a thorny problem." Howard Davidovic, chairman of Davidowitz & Associates, a retail consultancy, said (Howard Davidowitz). "Ask Abercrombie & Fitch to know." He said. Abercrombie has launched into Europe since 2007. It has opened 7 flagship stores and 62 Hollister brand stores, and now it is in a difficult position overseas. Last year, the company's international same store sales fell by 8%. Not only that, the company also announced plans to close its underwear brand Gilly Hicks in all independent stores overseas and in the US. "The worst thing is to shop in a high-profile way, and then compress it." Alan Adamson, managing director of langtao international, a brand consultancy, said Allen Adamson.

J.Crew is not the only retailer who wants to succeed in London. Vitoria's secret, Banana Republic and other popular American brands have recently increased their business in London, and high-end brands such as 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone and Opening Ceremony have opened stores in London in the past year. "London is very suitable for the starting point of international layout." Adamson said, "it is very urban, and it also welcomes the success of other brands in other parts of the world. In Paris, it is very difficult to achieve this.

Before becoming a flagship store in Regent Street, J.Crew appeared to be amateur in London. The menswear store on Lambs Conduit street is very small. It's almost the same as that of a wealthy fashion designer. Its design is similar to J.Crew's Liquor Store store in the cubeca region of New York, which was designed by Partners & Spade and opened in 2008, that is, the same year that Lyons appointed designer Frank Mutens (Frank Muytjens) as director of men's clothing. Moutens, inspired by the traditional work clothes of the United States, has given the man a decadent but tailored feeling. (Mutens came from Amsterdam and worked in an American fashion brand Polo early in his career. He abandoned the wrinkles and hypertrophy styles, made trousers fit better, and introduced more high-grade fabrics. As the darling of male magazines, the change brought by J.Crew to menswear is just like the change brought by Lyons to J.Crew women's wear.

Behind the Lambs Conduit store, there is a wall full of Ludlow suits, decorated with the paintings of Jasper Jones (Jasper Johns) and the poster of Brian Eno (Brian Eno). The brand's clothing sells for about $800, which is a fashionable mid priced fashion suit offered by J.Crew. In Broolyn, Losangeles or East Texas, Austen, you can often see framed photographs of the wedding, where all the men are wearing Ludlow suits and the female guests are all J.Crew skirts.

"This is no longer a store for college students. The lady over there -- you see. At the Regent Street flagship store, Drexler pointed to a middle-aged shopper in the shoe area. "She wants to buy three pairs of short boots with a price of 375. These boots are designed by us and made in Italy. We directly calculate the price according to the cost, without double price increase. The price of these boots in the mall is probably two times that of here. " He said this stylish gray pointed boot looks exactly like the Manolo Blahnik boot of Barnes's New York boutique at $1055. But buying the same J.Crew boots in the US costs only 375 dollars. Many of the products of Regent Street flagship store and UK website are sold in the United States, and how many pounds are they selling here? Under the exchange rate of 1.60 US dollars to 1 pounds, the price of a pair of flat shoes is 40% higher in the UK.

In the United Kingdom, too high a price has caused Drexler to be severely criticized: "Michel Obama's favorite brand J.Crew landed in Britain... The price is twice as high as shoppers are shocked, "wrote a headline in the daily mail of November 8, 2013. "The price of each country is different. I have visited Europe for decades, and it has always been like this. Drexler said. He was not annoyed by the negative reports of the media. "Opening overseas stores has greatly promoted domestic business. Customers will buy more when they come to the United States, because it is cheaper here. " He said.

Drexler may be very relaxed, but Lyons and Wardle are more outspoken about J.Crew's challenges to Britain. "Everything is different from labels to laws and regulations." Lyons, who is responsible for marketing and store design, said, "there are some problems you can't imagine. London's permitted lighting power is lower than that of the United States, but we don't know. The feeling is, "it's too dark there!" she said. It's also useful for human problems. As Wardle said, J.Crew has always been proud of the "shopping experience", but finding the right salesperson locally is harder than expected. Lyons said, "if a customer says in the dressing room," this is not good, "our excellent feature is that the salesperson will say," we have three other options, and you can also choose this online. " In order to solve the staff problems, the company has deployed personnel from the United States, specializing in training British employees.

J.Crew has launched an in-depth lease negotiation on two planned Hongkong stores. The brand has already had some experience in Hongkong. In 2012, J.Crew began to cooperate with high-end department stores, lac Crawford, and display its products in the form of store stores. Drexler said cooperation is "pretty effective, but I can't tell you the specific data, because in that case, you will report it." However, the management of his staff is more prudent for J.Crew to enter Asia.

"Britain has a very good connection with the United States." Wardle, who was just promoted to his present position in April 2013, said. "Hongkong is more of a shopping mall culture." "The biggest difference is the size of the store," she said. Shops in Hongkong are smaller and rents are much higher. " The sales team is elaborately adjusting the product category of J.Crew in order to adapt to the reduced store area while still maintaining brand recognition. They are also studying the size of clothing in Asia. "After you get here, you will have an impression that everything must be smaller, but we realize that this is not necessarily the case." Wardle said. Lyons was surprised by the number of medium knitted shirts sold by Lian Crawford. "I don't know if it was bought by foreigners or whether people like to wear baggy clothes. I can't make myself clear. She said.

Asian customers have always been attracted by famous brands, and at the same time, as Drexler said, they have the mentality of "one price, one share". The luxury brands such as Prada, Cox, and Boboli are making money. So far, judging from Internet sales, Lyons is not worried whether the low-key vision of J.Crew's success in Hongkong can become a reality, and as for "mainland China, that's quite another matter." She said frankly.

On the second day, Drexler returned to the store and sat on a sofa in the women's shoe area, talking about how his company transformed from a knitted sweater company to an international brand that could attract first stars in the cold winter night in London. "The party is low-key, but cool." Drexler said, "they all look great. Oh, my God, if only we could be like that! "

Drexler is 69 years old, and his appearance is not so. His gray hair and translucent plastic spectacles make him look like the originator of the "academy wind" in the J.Crew advertisement, but his husky accent is more like the poor New York Bronx District, rather than the Massa vineyard island where the rich are gathered. Drexler often conducts market research on his own, and occasionally stops to greet some distinguished guests. "Do you like this new store?" he asked. It seems that he is disappointed that everyone is satisfied with everything. "The interesting thing about clothing and accessories is that it is emotional." He continued, "people's emotions may change soon. Now, the advantage of our arrival in London is that it is no longer the original J.Crew. It's a brand new J.Crew. It's brand new. Oh, my God! "

Drexler's J.Crew is not so new; it is also largely from Jenna Lyons. Drexler took over as chief executive officer of J.Crew in 2003 and promoted Lyons from a relatively unknown position to all the design work. He was promoted to be the creative director in 2007. Lyons has served in J.Crew since 1990. Under the leadership of Lyons, 45 years old, J.Crew has become the backbone of fashion. From the design of Gap to the pictures in "VOGUE dress and beauty" magazine, people everywhere are imitating her style -- combining classic products with bright colors, and acting independently.

Anna Wintour, editor in chief of VOGUE clothing and beauty, and Michel Obama, the first lady of the United States, are all fans of her. Since 2012, J.Crew has been designing its fashion week in New York. The price of J.Crew is higher than that of Zara, H&M and other fast fashion chain brands, but it is not as good as Alexander Wang and Thom Browne. With such pricing, J.Crew has found a lucrative niche market that has become the goal pursued by young shoppers and has become the preferred store for wealthy people to purchase basic funds. "I don't want to be too arrogant, but I think many of the things we do have an emotional connection with the United States." Drexler said.

J.Crew has been growing steadily. According to the company's data, J.Crew's brand currently has 446 stores in the United States and Canada, and its revenue grew by 20.1% to $2 billion 200 million in 2012. J.Crew finally achieved profitability. In the second quarter of 2011, the company suffered a loss of $10 million 500 thousand, and its net income in the second quarter of 2012 exceeded US $22 million. Even so, Drexler said, the company is still trying to avoid being anxious for success. Drexler and J.Crew brand president, Libby Wadle, responsible for sales and procurement, described the company's international strategy with "deliberation" and "caution".

J.Crew2012 launched the online shopping delivery service in more than 100 countries in the year of, but the UK store is the first entity shop opened overseas. He plans to open two new stores in Hongkong in the spring of 2014. In addition to the flagship store in Regent Street, there is also a women's boutique in Brown's pun cross road, a luxury shopping district in London, which sells J.Crew Collection series with higher price. Besides, men's clothing stores on Lambs Conduit Street specialize in selling suits. "We did not rush to the market. We will not become a popular brand. " Wardle, 40, said, "so we put a lot of pressure on our shops, and we must succeed." Wardle worked in Gap with Drexler, and has been working in J.Crew since 2004.

Compared with Gap with more than 3000 stores, J.Crew still has a smaller scale, but its rise is of unusual significance. Although fashion is naturally elitist, Lyons has downplayed this trait. "Fashion belongs to everyone." She said, "we will not communicate with customers on high ground." The spirit of J.Crew is the coexistence of design and value. Its cashmere fabrics are produced by factories in Italy, but the cost is lower than that of New York's department store Bloomingdale 's. J.Crew products will not be offline. (if this happens occasionally, salespeople will be happy to replace their customers. Since 2008, people have paid more attention to the quality of products, and at the same time, they are more and more interested in "made in America" products, supporting local manufacturing industry. J.Crew wisely began to strengthen its "superior cooperation" project, including cooperation with the US footwear brand Sperry TopSider, Red Wing Shoes, Alden Shoes and outdoor clothing brand Woolrich.

Although most of J.Crew's products are manufactured overseas, the company has dominated the fashion trend of men's wear - wrinkle shirts, old but tailored jeans and high-end outdoor jackets. Old brands such as Booker brothers and Ralph Lauren have benefited from this trend. Brands like "spectators" and other rising stars are also involved. Large retailers such as Club Monaco also tend to be in this style, so the new baseball brand Varsity Jacket, which sells for 450 dollars, is launched.

The American style has gone global. Especially in Asia, the demand for "authentic" traditional brands led by J.Crew is very strong. Japanese shoppers make the highest bid for Red Wing boots on eBay for 1000 dollars. Alden opened a successful independent store in Shanghai, decorated with the American flag. Although the single "American image" does not exist - the concept of the United States is too vague - but Drexler and his colleagues believe that if the American national wind can go global, the product of J.Crew is undoubtedly the most promising.

J.Crew is headquartered near Cooper square in Manhattan. It is a modified loft. On a warm morning in November, the streets were full of New York University students wearing jeans and knitted sweaters, girls wearing huge necklaces, and boys wearing New Balance sneakers. Lyons's influence is everywhere. She sat in a white office filled with sketches and well ventilated, talking about her role in the company at a big table. "In the final analysis, what I really want is that people can be excited about clothes." She said. Lyons wore Navy trousers and Comme des Garcons navy blue knitted sweater (this brand is another "superior cooperation" object of J.Crew). Lyons's J.Crew is like Diane von freddin's DVF. Her image is intertwined with the clothes she designs. But she said she was not entirely designing for herself. "You want to love what you design." She said, "I don't wear shorts, but we have designed many shorts. I can be strong when I talk about shorts. "