The Joy And Worry Behind Fashion Industry's Fashion Designers Industry
Fashion circle Mysterious and striking, it is so bright, so dazzling, as if it is a world that does not eat people's smoke and fire and does not enter the other shore of oil and fat. However, no industry is behind the so-called bright and glory. It is these fearless creators who created this seemingly fashionable fashion empire. When people turn around magnificently, a struggling face like you and me is seen. Beijing Business Daily reporter to talk about designers, buyers, fashion editors, luxury brand sales, fashion PR, restore a real Chinese fashion industry practitioners survival status.
29 years old clothing Designer Sun Yuyan has been working with former colleagues since April to start their own business. Although she gave up her salary as a design director before a famous brand, she now enjoys the happiest business hours. Compared with the struggling career of designer in the past few years, she is now living a "boss" life with independent design and time. But previous career experience is an indispensable asset for her, giving her the ability to control her career now. And that's the real life that fashion designers are going through every day.
Throughout the year, designers did not live.
In 2009, Sun Yuyan joined the high-end professional women's clothing brand CRCARA, which earned 4000 yuan a month and worked 12 hours a day. It is easy to see that two years' work equals all her life.
Sun Yuyan said that in Korean dramas, coffee makers carefully hold the pictures of each design drawing, which can only be put on TV. In reality, their work is basically the speed of trotting, because it is necessary to coordinate many departments to complete the original design of a dress.
Racing with time and season is the unspeakable pain of dress designers. When people wear light summer clothes, designers have been designing autumn and winter clothes, otherwise they miss them. Season All efforts were in vain. Her working cycle with the previous design team is the last new product every month.
According to the introduction, running in the design process basically accounts for half of the design cycle. In the process of continuous modification and adjustment, the design director will adjust the design details according to the market demand. This is the word "touch things", which is often used by the insiders. After determining the direction, the designer will present the sample to the design director, and then make the final revision and finalization. During the day, the company changed its design and sent home manuscripts at night. Apart from sleeping, designers had been working. Even weekends are filled with market research. This kind of high intensity working rhythm has become the "hidden rules" of the design industry.
A fashion designer who has difficulty in becoming a hero behind the scenes.
In 2011, Sun Yuyan switched to the domestic mature women's clothing brand CAGLIARIEXCHANGE Cagliari. In recent years, she jumped into the famous brand Michelle Michel. She admits that the flow of people in the design industry is very large, and many of her designer friends are basically changing companies one year. Hard work and salary are not directly proportional to each other. Coupled with the limited space for job advancement, job hopping is a necessity to seek new opportunities.
In foreign countries, designers are popular with the public due to their talent and creative economic value. It is no exaggeration to say that the fate of many overseas brands lies in the hands of the design director. Any big designer who changes the design director will cause great disturbances. The designer's fame and influence in the crowd is self-evident. LV designer MarcJacobs, Chanel designer KarlLagerfeld, GiorgioArmani designer GiorgioArmani. Respecting the designer's social culture also allows designers to get more opportunities. For example, AlexanderWang, AlexanderMcQueen and so on have all gone back to the stage because of the popularity of the same brand, and have become the leaders of the fashion industry.
However, in China, designers are just behind the scenes of clothing companies. Consumers may be familiar with a domestic brand, but no one knows who its designers are, and the pursuit and respect of designers are even more impossible. This is closely related to the late start of the brand development of China's fashion industry and the weak awareness of intellectual property protection.
"I design clothes for high-income people, but they do not know who I am. That feeling is very complicated." Sun Yuyan met in a supermarket with a woman who was dressed in her Michel dress and had a beautiful image. During the chat, he learned that the other side was working in Financial Street. She could not help asking what brand the other clothes were. When the other side answered her Michel in an arrogant tone, Sun Yuyanjue was happy and lonely. A designer with a well-known brand in China has not received due respect and respect in front of his consumers. He has become an unsung hero after creating beauty and value behind the scenes.
The salaries of ordinary designers in domestic first-line clothing companies are generally between 6000-8000 yuan. "When you find yourself earning a month's salary, you can't even buy a piece of clothing you design, and you feel stronger without realizing your value." Sun Yuyan said. "They don't go to high consumption places or go to the zoo regularly," Sun Yuyan said. "It's fun to buy 30 yuan for 3000 dollars."
A Chinese designer's brand dream
Sun Yuyan now lives in an old residential neighborhood near Dahongmen, where less than 60 square meters of house is her studio and home. Push the door open. The two rows of long coat hangers are covered with the latest designs. The right side of the clothes hanger is the workbench which designs, prints and boards. It is filled with manuscripts and tools. On the other side of the living room was the first batch of garments that had just been taken back from the factory.
Making brand is burning money. Many new domestic designers are familial in the clothing industry. They have certain capital and brand resources. They will go smoothly in the initial stage. However, for Sun Yuyan, the love of design has led her to start her own business with her own strength. But she is very determined to make her own brand and let others know who Sun Yuyan is.
"Now we need to earn some money and we will soon make our own brand." The girl who took care of her family from the University and sent the money she earned and most of her savings to her family was quite different from her peers. People who have dreams and can work hard step by step will always shine.
At the end of the interview, Sun Yuyan answered another phone call from the people in the fabric market, telling her that the fabric she ordered was out of stock. While complaining about what she had done, she was skillfully carrying two more than 10 kilograms of electric vehicle batteries. Downstairs and hurriedly saying goodbye, she drove to the fabric market.
Nobody cares for the day. It suddenly occurred to Dickens at the beginning of the book of Shuangcheng. "This is the best era. This is the worst of times. This is the age of wisdom. This is the age of stupidity. This is the time of belief. This is the time of doubt. This is the season of light, this is the season of darkness; this is the spring of hope, the winter of despair; there are all kinds of things in front of people; there is nothing in front of people; people are going straight to heaven, and people are going straight to hell. To say that it is good is the most advanced, and that it is not good is also the most advanced.
Point of view collision
Guo Pei: designer of the Beijing Olympic Games award dress, designer of the CCTV Spring Festival Gala.
About persistence
Sun Yuyan: in the past, the brand worked 12 hours a day, and felt that there was no life, and I often thought that other people's work was better than mine.
Guo Pei: I spend more than 12 hours a day in my costume. Designers need inspiration to create, you can not draw a line to distinguish between commuting. When you put your whole life into your beloved career, you are not tired and happy.
Sun Yuyan: I love design so much, but a month's salary does not buy a dress that I design. This feeling is very complicated.
Guo Pei: true love does not have many other expectations beyond design, such as fame and fortune. Designers create beauty, their wisdom and talent is the greatest contribution to this society. Bring your love for design to the extreme, and many unexpected gains will come uninvited.
About mentality
Sun Yuyan: in the early days of entrepreneurship, there are often difficult problems. I really feel that everything is difficult at the beginning.
Guo Pei: no matter what stage you are in, you must remind yourself that all roads lead to Rome. Remember that you are a designer, and you have to pass positive energy through your work. Learn to enjoy this process, to feel your growth from your heart, to design with pleasure, to design with love, and to live with your heart.
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