Riccardo Tisci Talks About Ten Years Of Givenchy's Dream
Riccardo Tisci thought that when she had been working on Givenchy for 10 years, she regrets that "everything is just like yesterday". The year when he joined Givenchy, that is, in 2005, Givenchy was on the verge of bankruptcy. Tisci said, "I had to run across the street to use a public photocopier. Because the company was broken, we had no money to buy the new one." At that time, the designers of John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald did not work here long enough to come and go.
According to the British report, no one at that time believed that LVMH really signed the street styled Italy designer, and the contemporary Tom Ford style was sexy and gorgeous. But when it came to Tisci: "at that time, everyone called me Goth (Gothic abbreviation), and I was partial to the dark. I just did not like me in the media, but it doesn't matter. 6 years ago, people who hated me now are all back."
Over the next few years, Tisci's steady leadership, crisp working style and gifted intuition completely changed Givenchy, which made the brand, founded in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy, and began to make profits. (unfortunately, the LVMH group did not disclose the exact figure).
Now, his influence has swept through all circles: up to Hollywood, red carpet, such as Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara, and Rihanna are fans of his dark style dress, down to the streets: the printed sweater with the pop culture totem on the Givenchy becomes an essential part of weekend leisure.
In 2008, the men's wear series he launched was extremely successful. In 2012, he suspended his advanced customization series. In September of the same year, he put Kim Kardashian on the status of fashion icon, and also designed the wedding dress for the reality star. He has recently worked with Nike to transform the Air Force 1 shoe he wore since childhood, so that children can also bring some cool Tisci.
Tisci is proud of his leadership to grow into today's Giventy style: democratic, provocative and humorous. "Givenchy is the most Chic luxury brand," according to Tisci himself. "Givenchy founder Hubert has also had a dark style. Seeing his works in the 50s of last century, we can see a dark style which is difficult to express, but at the same time, I can feel the rigorous design and fascinate me. We brought the brand to the streets and made Givenchy more sincere and truer.
Walking into a Givenchy store, whether in Chongqing, Kuwait or Las Vegas, you can find a polo shirt with a price tag of 400 pounds. 250 pounds of earrings will also see 4000 pounds of chiffon skirt beside 500 pounds of sneakers: the combination of Tisci's high end and low end coexisting fashion makes the most lethal brand.
Tisci believes that "reality makes it necessary for us to do everyday clothes, just like my sister works in a factory, earning only 1800 pounds a month, and she has to save money to buy Sweaters". It is true that these clothes are expensive, but the intention of making them is to make everyone affordable, because Tisci always remembers ordinary people like his sister. Now, 40% of Givenchy brand sales are clothing, 60% is shoes, and Tisci is worried that Givenchy will become a brand of accessories. He doesn't believe in the usual business model: making dreams by fashion, making money by selling perfume. This is a stereotyped formula, but he does not want to do so.
Tisci's public image has also been rapidly enriched with Givenchy. "10 years ago, I was too shy to speak. But I find the way of self expression through fashion. He was from a reserved voice to a glib tongue. He had Madonna in the key dial address book, and the supermodels were his friends.
Tisci with his own Fashion language The challenge of a more Tisci style is also challenged. We also challenge our sense of beauty. We have very diverse displays on T and support charity projects. He boldly launched the black model Joan Smalls for the first time. He discovered the "super size" Holland model Lara Stone, and the Chinese model supermodel Xi Mengyao who just stepped on the show again. (she allegedly expressed her gratitude on the legs of Mr Tisci). He also photographed albinism models, and the most controversial thing was to launch the Lea T model in bold propaganda.
"I was so much criticized for filming transsexuals," when he decided to let his former assistant, friend, Lea T, be the Advertising Spokesperson for Givenchy in 2010, "Lea" was driven out of the house. Fortunately, with the endorsement of the money, she can at least go for surgery. Since then, 7 months, I have been receiving letters and abuse. Suddenly things changed. Lea went to the Oprah talk show. She showed the world herself in front of the camera, and people fell in love with her. Now she is on the cover of time magazine.
"Normal" is a very strange word. There is no word "different" in my dictionary. We are all the same. From Tisci.
Tisci has been enthusiastic about charitable activities. Recently, not only did she bring herself a group of good friends, she joined the Alicia Key 's charity fund dinner to raise money for AIDS children. Although fashion and charity don't sound like that, Tisci insists on his simple intention: "all society disdains, I try to turn it into a mainstream."
This may be related to his family background. He was born in a working-class family with eight older sisters. As his only son, the death of his father had left his family with a tiny source of income. But he was more fortunate than a few older sisters. He didn't drop out of school. With his mother's encouragement, he left Italy at the age of 17 and won the award at the central Saint Martin School of art and design. He was in 2005 with the Givenchy of LVMH group, in order to keep his ancestral home.
So Tisci has an intuitive sympathy for people at the edge of society. "I know what it feels like to be abandoned by society. It's a very bad feeling." When I was a child, I had to wash a hot bath once a week when my family was in poor condition. At that time, the food was supplied. He had to wear clothes from his sister, and he was often bullied by his classmates.
Despite his poor life, his mother taught Tisci brothers and sisters not to judge people by their appearance. She sowed the seeds of tolerance in her children's hearts. "My mother can't read, but she is very smart. She always teaches me, "if you do something bad, you have to remember it for life, and you can forget it if you do something good."
Tisci His life has now been well preserved, but his experience and strong religious belief have constantly improved his series and kept him faithful to his friends and family. Going to see his Instagram will find that his life is rich and colorful, unlike the monks, his heart and desire: he has party on his 40 birthday. Justin Bieber Jessica Chastain, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and other celebrities attended a grand reception.
"My private life is excellent," he said with a laugh. "I like going to clubs. I love life. I am not afraid that this interferes with my real life: I am not the fashion people. He always chose to remain silent about his love affair.
The topic goes back to his plan for the future of Givenchy. Tisci said she wanted to turn Givenchy into a comprehensive brand like Ralph Lauren or Armani, with books, magazines, artworks, music and new product lines. "I want to develop Givenchy into a way of life," he said. "Because I can see many suitable scenes: young ladies from night clubs to ladies' dresses. When I joined the Givenchy, I said that I would not stop Givenchy from becoming a brand of a comprehensive lifestyle. I want to make Givenchy furniture and introduce children's clothing series. People do not understand this idea at the beginning: they think there is a trend in every season. I don't want to be a designer in pursuit of fashion trends. I want to have my own style. "
In the past, he took the advanced custom Studios on the street, and now he saw the trend of the industry in the past: "I think the high street is coming to an end." "We will go back to the custom-made fashion house in the 50s of the last century," he said. "Customers will go to their specific designers to make clothes. It's not important to find anyone. It's more cool."
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