Lei Gou Da Bu Resurrected "Non Heritage" Attracted Hundreds Of Millions Of Yuan "Business"

Recently, the Suzhou municipal "intangible heritage" project

The Symposium on the inheritance and development of weaving and dyeing process was held.

The project successor, Huang Shengliang, chairman of Zhangjiagang Jinling Textile Co., Ltd., at the meeting, introduced that through the protection, innovation and upgrading of "Lei Gou Da bu", the company has accumulated over 5 million meters over the past 5 years, bringing direct economic benefits to over 100 million yuan.

"Lei Gou Da bu" is a kind of homespun cloth produced in Gure gully area (today's Nansha and Hou Cheng area of Zhangjiagang City, Hong Kong). Its original natural color dyeing process is unique and has a history of more than 500 years.

For a long time, "Lei Gou Da bu" has been well received by the market due to its natural color and wearable properties.

Lv Daan, head of the Zhangjiagang intangible cultural heritage expert group, said: "its weaving and dyeing process is from

To remove cotton seeds, to sizing, weaving, dyeing and so on, is a very regular and meticulous process that has been handed down for centuries.

After the 70s of last century, the "thunder ditch DBU", which was once magnificent, was almost extinct.

In order to save this traditional process, Zhangjiagang listed it in the first batch of "non heritage" catalogues in 2007 and designated Jinling textile as a heritage unit.

Reporters on the five floor of the company's "Lei Gou cloth" exhibition hall, see spinning machines, looms, yarn dyed rods and other "Lei Gou cloth" utensils, together with the original homespun cloth together, become the company's most moving customer's "cultural card".

Huang Shengliang said that since 2009, more than 1000 instruments have been purchased from surrounding areas.

In the exhibition hall, the modern edition "Lei Gou Da bu" worn on two models is particularly noticeable.

According to Jinling textile research and development minister Zhang Qinfen, the two sets of garments were successfully unveiled at the Shanghai international fabric exhibition in 2014, and were well received by customers at home and abroad.

"Through splicing and printing, use some

Special raw materials, "Lei Gou cloth" used in large textile, and then through fashion fashion design, so that the overall style of the traditional and modern perfect combination.

The original natural dyeing is the biggest feature of the dyeing and dyeing of "Lei Gou Bu Bu". However, due to the restriction of dyes, the traditional "Lei Gou Da bu" can only be blue, rice white, and has a single color.

In 2010, Jinling Textile Co operated with Changzhou university to develop natural plant dyes, which not only maintained the green environmental characteristics of fabrics, but also improved the poor color fastness of natural dyes.

Zhang Peikun, a researcher of plant dye technology at Changzhou University, said: "we extract color from about 200 plants and then dye it on the cotton fabric of Lei Gou. There are 18 kinds of colors that are mature and fastness to textiles."

In addition, Jinling textile also studied the classic flower pattern of "Lei Gou Da bu" and developed cotton, silk, cotton, linen, cotton and other products, and won the recognition of more than 10 famous international brands such as polo, Levis and h&m.

In 2011, the "weaving and dyeing technology of Lei Gou bu" was listed in the "non heritage" catalogue of Suzhou municipal level.

It is reported that

We will also plan to build "Lei Gou DBU" production workshop, and create the first cotton yarn dyed production workshop in China by concentrating on the original production tools and technology.