Thom Browne: Be The Most Authentic Self.

"I learned almost everything from Rocco."

Thom said, "I have always understood that if I want to be fashionable enough, [my series] should be tailored to the core.

For me, the most important thing is to make well tailored and interesting clothes.

This will never be out of date. "

At that time, the market was dominated by casual men's clothing, and Thom saw the market gap.

"I like wearing jackets and matching pants. I want to bring them back and bring those things like me that can't always buy what they want.

Or people who want to wear clothes.

What I think is, if I like, there will be people who like me.

It's almost like this.

"At that time, all the custom made clothes were just like business dress, more like the clothes that young boys' fathers would wear -- but they didn't want to be their own father."

He continued.

"I want to reintroduce the concept of customized clothing for these young people so that they can be comfortable in a custom suit when they wear T-shirts and jeans."

The first batch of custom-made suits was made, and Thom decided to "become a living sign of clothes," if I wanted to really set up a representative style, I did the same.

I measured my own size and made a suit and put them on the outside. People asked me where these clothes came from. I told them, "if you want, I'll make you one."

This tactic has attracted a lot of attention, but Thom says most of its original customers are artists.

"Within a year and a half, these stores really don't understand me.

Some influential fashion critics commend me and feel that this is really good because they are very interesting and reflect new ideas. [but] shops are different. They don't think they can sell.

"Everyone told me to hurry up and change the way."

He recalls.

"They told me to lengthen the jacket and then change the design of the trousers.

I don't understand why people think of me.

It has a strong sense of provocation.

[but] Colette and Bergdorf Goodman really dared to gamble.

After that, everyone started jumping on my ship.

Thom then began to expand the business to men and women's clothing design, and estimated that their own custom business "still occupies half of our work."

This is very important, because custom business is the starting point for my career.

At that time, every tailor made by me sold funds for my early career.

I said from the very beginning that men can make clothes for themselves in a romantic way. I like this idea very much.

He also reveled in this romantic sentiment: telling stories with every season's fashion show.

"[fashion series] I use more techniques than purely sales perspectives.

I like the part of these concepts because it is these concepts that make the sales part more interesting every season.

Every six months, these ideas are constantly developing.

And the part of the classic suit is getting better and better because of the evolution of my fashion series.

When designing, there is no need to use "mood board".

"I really started to make clothes directly.

First sketch some sketches -- basically simple line drawings -- draw the proportion I want to achieve.

As for the stories to be told, sometimes they happen very early, sometimes very late.

The concepts pointed out in the design are very loose and never very direct.

The most important point is to start from the scale. "

In 2009, according to market data,

When it reached US $6 million 300 thousand (about 38 million 800 thousand yuan), Thom sold most of its shares to Cross, a Japanese company.

"When they really understand why I do these fashion shows, why do these designs, why do I make the classic suit part?

I knew they were the most suitable people.

They never asked me why I did this.

He said.

"From that time on, I started to open shop in Japan, and my business was doing better and better. We began to make accessories series, and now I started doing women's wear too.

So on the whole, it can actually make me do more things.

It is because of their support that Thom launched a new and more classic fashion line in the autumn of 2014. The whole series revolves around his classic all grey suit (he also launched the Moncler Gamme Bleu men's wear series with the French sportswear giant Moncler).

This fashion line is designed to attract customers who come to high-end department stores, including shirts, coats and scarves, neckties and other neckwear worn on the neck. The style of design is much more restrained than the Thom style.

The price of the suit is around 2200 dollars (about 13552 yuan), and the lowest price shirt is 350 yuan (about 2156 yuan).

"I like to wear short pants, but not everyone is like me. I don't think everyone should be like me.

The new product line can be accepted by more consumers. These consumers do not want to buy the avant-garde clothes on the show, but they want to really make fine clothes.

For example, a man who prefers classic style to him, he also likes my walk show design, but I still think these designs may be a bit overdone. What he wants are clothes suitable for work. I think these people will be interested in my series.

But as we continue to expand our business, Thom reminds us, "the most important thing is to be your true self.

I think sometimes young designers want to please too many people or want to copy what others have done. They have not tried to create themselves.

But if you really want to do something powerful, or something important enough to support for a long time, you really have to be honest about what you want to do.

"I never thought of changing anything before, but I remember that I really thought," if it doesn't work, I really don't know what I'm going to do in the future. "

But thankfully, this road is still going through.