The Next Generation Of Japanese Fashion Company Comme

Japan, Tokyo -- like many other industries, many of the most prestigious companies in the fashion industry are actually the cradles to train new generation designers.

But at this point, no company can match Wakubo Rei's Comme des Gar ons.

Comme is a company that has the courage to break through and has unlimited creativity. Its brand owns many $220 million a year (RMB 1 billion 340 million yuan).

Some of Wakubo Rei's students have set up their own companies, such as Chitose Abe founded Sacai, Junichi Abe founded Kolor, other students have created their own brands, which belong to Comme system and become Comme's new product line.

The first is Junya Watanabe.

At first, he entered the company as a tailor, and then got a promotion in 1992 and began to take charge of the new brand.

The attempt of new brand is very successful, and the operation of Comme has not been negatively affected.

In the process, Watanabe has also grown into an innovative independent designer.

Since then, Chuan Jiu Bao Ling has also allocated their own product lines for other designers: such as Tao Kurihara's "Tao" (established in 2005, ceased operation in 2011), Fumito's "Ganryu" series (established in 2007), and the recent Kei Ninomiya's Noir by Kei Nomiya (2012 launched).

Comme's chairman of the international department and Wakubo Rei's partner.

Said: "if designers have worked in the company for many years to prove their abilities and truly understand the value of the company, Wakubo Rei will ask them if they want to own their own product line."

Like Comme, these brands pursue more than just external beauty.

There may be no connection between them from an aesthetic point of view, but they share a common system of values.

"We share the same origin, which is the desire for unique creativity.

This value is reflected in every aspect of the company, not only for clothing production, but also for everything unique and creative. "

Joffe said in an interview with BoF in 2013.

For Kurihara, the brand of Tao enabled her to show her unique ideas.

Her works often go punk style the previous season, and this season is likely to be the main fantasy fairy tale.

At first, she was the tailor of Watanabe, and later became the chief designer of Comme knitted fabric (Tricot).

Kurihara believes that working with Watanabe can achieve "no compromise in the face of creativity", while its product line represents "exclusive creation".

(Tao) this brand has not lasted for a long time, and it will be offline in 2011.

Kurihara said he wanted to change his lifestyle and return to Tricot, which has two shows a year in Tokyo.

Fumito Ganryu was originally a tailor of Watanabe.

His men's brand "Ganryu" is the main street leisure fan, and the introduction of denim jacket and loose trousers and other classic leisure.

When it comes to launching a new brand under Comme, he said, "I never deliberately try to get my ideas closer to the company's style."

When asked what he cherished most, he replied, "some ideas seem to be hard to achieve, but in Comme, people are always confident and put into practice."

In 2008, Kei Ninomiya dropped out of Royal College of Art in Antwerp, came to Comme as a tailor, and founded her own brand 4 years later.

His design is simple and exquisite, and only uses a black hue, which is made of unconventional stitching. Its clothing has complex structure and elegant taste.

Like others, Ninomiya is fortunate enough to work for Comme, where the free atmosphere makes him pursue the most complex concept.

"Comme des Gar ons attaches importance to creativity, and its cooperative factories try to achieve the designer's creativity," said Ninomiya. "[Chuan Jiu Bao Ling] will look at my work progress, but she never meddle in clothing production and production.

Without enough freedom, there can be no good idea.

"Wakubo Rei gave the designer full freedom," Joffe said. "One day before the conference, she would glance at the whole series, but she rarely made changes.

At the beginning of the design, she will

Discuss plans, budgets and specific ways. If designers want, she will always provide advice, but then she leaves them plenty of room for freedom.

Some of the disciple designers set up their own product lines under Comme, others left Comme to build their own brands, such as Junichi Abe and Kolor, Chitose Abe to create Sacai (although two people were married, but each operated an independent brand).

Chitose Abe worked for Comme for 8 years. At first, he was the tailor of Wakubo Rei, then joined the Junya Watanbe design team. After she gave birth to the first child, Chitose Abe started her own brand.

"Obviously, I respect Comme company very much. I have learned how to design clothes and how to combine creativity with industry. More importantly, I know how to discover personal values and integrate them into fashion."

Abe said in an interview with BoF in 2013.

In 1989, Junichi Abe began to work as a tailor in Tricot Comme des Garcons, and later joined Watanabe team.

After working with Watanabe for four and a half years, the speed of the fashion circle was so dissatisfied with Abe that he left the company and created a new brand, ppCM, with three friends.

In 2004, the team was disbanded, and Abe built its own brand with Kolor.

Although Abe has returned to traditional fashion circles, he has innovated his classic clothing and integrated himself into his brand.

"I learned a lot from Comme," Abe said. "Of course, I learned a lot of skills and techniques, but what still deeply affects me today is the concept of work and the concern for design."

Kawakubo training designers focus on creativity. Most of them start from tailoring. After years of practice in the field of clothing, they have reached the level of perfection in their skills. Not only are they skilled in drawing manuscripts, but they are also skilled in other crafts, which is very rare today.

In Comme, there is a mentoring relationship between junior employees and senior employees, which helps young designers learn skills.

Despite the same age as Watanabe, Junichi Abe still regards Watanabe as her predecessor.

"Watanabe is very strict with his work, so it's not easy to work for him, but I learned a lot from him."