Lanvin The Creative Director Has Gone Too Far.

When the market environment becomes bad, the internal contradictions of many companies will break out, for example, the creative director goes away one by one.

As you know, Alber Elbaz, the creative director who worked for Lanvin for 14 years, announced that he had left the brand and his personal belongings had been removed from the office.

2015 is not over yet. We have seen that Paris family is no longer renewing the contract with Alexander Wang, Donna Karen is leaving the same name brand, and Raf Simons is stepping down as Dior's artistic director. So who is next?

This is a very old topic.

As early as 2010 Alexander McQueen committed suicide, and John Galliano was ejected from Dior due to emotional disorder and anti Semitic expressions, the discussion on whether designers were overwhelmed by the fast moving mechanism of the fashion industry had already begun.

If you are interested, you can take a look at the new book "Dana Thomas" published by the fashion writer at the beginning of this year, "gods and kings: the rise and fall of Alexander McCune and John garriano".

As Thomas Chauvet, a luxury analyst at Citigroup, told New York Times, the era of star designers has passed, designers come and go, and fashion houses are no longer as loyal as they used to be.

If fashion houses were not like this before, when did everything start to change?

Let's go back to 1980s.

After the establishment of luxury brands such as PPR (now called Kering) and so on, the original family run fashion houses embarked on another path of fate. The market faced by them extended to the whole world, and the professional manager system was injected into a more modern management mode. Of course, a clearer revenue plan was made.

These fashionable houses that have been incorporated into large groups have long been away from the days that the designer wanted to control. According to the June Marsh's history of fashion design, one of the last wishes before the death of Crist Marsh BAL Balenciaga, the founder of the house of Paris, is to end his brand and not let it continue.

However, as you can see today, this wish has not been carried out.

Is there no such thing as an ecosystem? Of course, for example, Karl Lagerfeld, already 72 years old.

He also serves as the design of the two most famous fashion houses in Chanel and Fendi, and at the same time he has to work as a photographer to make a brand of microfilm.

And I believe that more and more young designers will accept and adapt to the rhythm and ecology of today's fashion industry.

In 2013, the 29 year old J.W. Anderson

At the same time, her brand also accepted the position of Loewe creative director; and the 34 year old Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia also confirmed that she would take over the position of Alexander Wang.

Big brands provide young designers with a better understanding of the business world and a wider audience.

The world is changing, and there is always a new generation of people adapting to it.

People tried to find some clues to his work in some of Elbaz's words. For example, he once said, "our designer's career started with becoming a tailor, starting with dreams, intuition and feeling.

Now we have become "creative director" to create, but more often than just regulation.

We have to be an image maker, to stir up the topic, to make everything look good in the picture, to make the screen scream, baby.

It sounds very resentful, doesn't it?

The existing rules of the game.

As designers, it is far from enough to see good design, and more importantly, to sell well.

Despite the emphasis on aesthetics, heritage and cultural symbols, fashion houses are essentially different from mobile phone manufacturers and carmakers. They are pursuing new profits and stimulating their desire to buy.

Behind the blurred gorgeous advertisements, there are also perfect customer purchase behavior analysis and sales plan.

And on this whole chain, the creative director and his assistant design team are only one of them.

Under such a role setting, once the sales are not ideal, the management will always be accountable to the creative director.

Lanvin is not a listed company, so there is no public financial statement.

But according to the news of fashion director Vanessa Friedman from people close to Lanvin, Lanvin's revenue this year will decline to 221 million euros from 321 million euros in 2014.

In fact, for all luxury goods companies, this year will not be easy.

Bain consulting predicts that sales of designer clothing and footwear in 2015 will be only 1% less than that of the previous year, the worst growth since the collapse of Lehman Brothers.

Even though the performance has been well done, Raf Simons has brought 18% organic growth to the last fiscal year of Dior, but large fashion houses will issue spring, summer, autumn and winter, holidays, early spring, early autumn, and even high ranking annually.