Burberry Is Taking The Lead In Developing The Fashion Industry.

Burberry announced not long ago that since September 2016, it will integrate the release time of men's and women's wear. In the future, only a joint press conference on men's and women's clothing no longer emphasizes the season will be held in February and 9 months, and the sale time of the display will be ahead of schedule.

It's all about.

The decision of its operation actually rippled in the fashion industry.

Soon, Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger, Vetements, Rebacca Minkoff, Prada and other brands also announced that they will join the two quarter of a year, season show, or even show sales.

For a long time, the fashion industry has been running a "weird" timetable: every year in nine and October, the brand will release the next spring and summer design; in three and April, the designer will launch the next autumn and winter design.

So, on the T stage of the winter, models will wear silk dresses.

When it gets warmer, it will be fur coat.

This 6 month gap between the "fashionable season" and the normal season makes the so-called fashion always "first step", and what customers can do is catch up and wait.

This set of timetable can be operated in a long and orderly way, and it has its rationality.

It is the six month gap created by this person that makes the brand have time to fully communicate with its wholesale partners and buyers, so as to predict product sales and inform suppliers and producers to make planned production and minimize inventory risk. On the other hand, brand and advertising companies and media can cooperate with the new series of promotion or exposure, and can distribute the limited budget and time reasonably to different products, so as to expand sales as far as possible.

But the rationality of this kind of time dislocation is weakening, especially when new technology and the Internet are changing everything around us.

"We already knew that one day there would be such a change.

Just imagine that when customers have been able to know the new design of the season by means of webcast and social media, they will not be willing to wait for another six months.

Burberry CEO Christopher Bailey said in a media interview after the release of the brand 2016 autumn winter series.

While we are preparing for spring, the fashion industry has to design fur coats and boots to prepare for the winter.

Customers are becoming more and more impatient.

Burberry, who first purchased the electricity supplier, the video live fashion show and the pre test water show, purchased online, and this time he wanted to rewrite the timetable which seemed increasingly unpleasant.

But the strength of the classic brand and weak financial emerging brands have different ways to deal with this change.

Referring to the floor distribution plan of high-end shopping center, we put

Brands such as Gucci, Chanel, Burberry and Prada belong to the category of classic brands; Vetements, Angel Chen, Xuzhi, and so on, you may never have heard of rising stars, which can be called new brands.

Compared with emerging brands, classic brands generally have greater autonomy in the supply chain and distribution channels, so it is much easier to implement the "show that they sell, that is, buy and wear".

The reason why Burberry has been emboldened to take the lead in developing the "show is to sell" is because it has its own factory in the UK and Italy, which can grasp the overall situation in terms of output, process and duration.

Rather than simply looking forward to outsourced factories being able to deliver on time, what they need to do is improve internal management and productivity.

On the other hand, Burberry has basically implemented its own mode on a global scale. Therefore, even if the advance time is on display, there is no need to consider the process of ordering the shelves of the buyer's shop and department store. In department stores, Burberry will adopt the way of garrison, and no buyers need to purchase stock for department stores.

Emerging brands can not have such a large voice in the production process, it is also very difficult to control which styles can become hot money.

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"Burberry can be heavily invited."

Wear the main street to create a burst, so that the inventory problem has become less severe.

Chinese designer Chen Anqi has given another classic brand the possibility of solving inventory problems. "But only Burberry can be so wealthy.

The rich "Burberry" try to set up new rules. Although the new brands are passive, they are trying their best to catch up with the pace of change.

The experimental fashion brand Vetements founded by Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Paris family, has chosen a representative compromise in the realistic conditions and trends.

According to Gvasalia's interview with fashion of Business of Fashion, the brand will start from the next quarter and will be held in January and 6 months respectively.

This is a very clever strategy.

If you don't use it, you can reduce the pressure on the cash flow of the brand and avoid the adverse effect of the backlog on the subsequent operation of the brand.

In June and 1, the conference was held in March and April and September and October. It was able to catch up with the shopping mall and promote the early spring and early autumn series. According to the media interview with senior vice president of Berdorf Goodman, brand and shopping malls now put the promotion budget of 70%-80% in the early autumn and early spring series, because the two series sold at full price for a longer period of time, according to Linda's Fargo.

"More often than not, our young brands will have to follow the trend of the industry, depending on the cooperation of suppliers, manufacturers, buyers and wholesale partners, in order to decide whether or when to join the ranks of this change."

Chen Xuzhi, a Chinese designer who has just been nominated by this year's LVMH Young Designer Award, told an interface reporter at the London Fashion Week's official sample show hall. "I think the compression cycle or the show will be a trend.

You should have seen that more brands have integrated into the clothes of early summer in the autumn and winter design of this season and become more seasonally differentiated than before.

But new and old are opposites.

Not all classic brands welcome changes in timetables, some of them sneer at Burberry's attempts to subvert tradition.

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"Our customers are fashions educated, so they know how the whole fashion industry works."

Ralph Toledano, chairman of the French Fashion Association, said in an interview with WWD, a fashion news website.

The French Fashion Association has Chanel, Saint Laurent, Dior, Hermes, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Maison Margiela and other brands.

Toledano believes that customers absolutely know and understand why they need to pay 6 months' waiting time for the show, and believe that customers will finally get more joy when they receive clothes.

Kai Yun group CEO Francois-Henri Pinault also published a similar argument with Toledano.

In a statement, he said that its brand Gucci will not follow Burberry to join the army of "smashing illusion".

Gucci is doing its best to change its brand image at this moment. Compared with the avantgarde, it cares more about a remote antique romance.

At the same time, it is also experiencing the strongest revenue growth in three years, so it can insist on the strategy of constant change.

On the one hand, the preemption of Burberry is the continuation of its digital strategy, and more importantly, its consideration of the decline of the luxury market and the desperate search for a new outlet.

The brand needs to make a choice in the face of change. The fashion week organizers also need to consider whether they need to switch roles at this stall.

It may not take a long time for the fashion industry to form a new rule of two shows a year, that is, show, sell, buy and wear.

Until then, the whole industry has stabilized for decades, and the system will gradually collapse until it collapses completely. The most extreme performance may be that fashion week will no longer exist.

The American Fashion Association (CFDA) has found the The Boston Consulting Group, the global advisory body, launched a 6 week market survey on the necessity and form of the fashion week, because "designers, retailers and media are having doubts about the way to install the week in Boston".

The results will be announced in March.

More recently, a series of brands such as Burberry and other brands will no longer release the men's wear series for the next few seasons. The attractiveness of the men's week for the less important participants will be greatly reduced.

Similarly, when more and more brands choose to be independent of the fashion week schedule, the position of major fashion week is also at stake.

"But I think there will still be brands that need to get in touch with the wholesale partners and the media through fashion week, and this is our direction."

The British Fashion Association CEO Caroline Rush said to the interface news.

In contrast, the French Fashion Association, which has many large standing teams, may be much safer.

In fact, even without these French brands, Paris fashion week still has some strength to maintain its bottom line.

At least for the current situation, Paris fashion week is more mature than other fashion week in its commercial operation. The buyers and wholesalers all over the world even went to Paris to see the other fashion week's sample show hall, and sign a new season's order with the brand.

There are retailers at the fork in the road.

Harrods counted the most responsive representatives.

It has just helped Moschino to carry out a "Xiu Chang capsule series", which is a show selling water after the Milan show in the season. It only sells T shirts and sweaters with more explosive potential for a day.

According to Iji's statement, although there are no official countermeasures at present, the relevant teams are already discussing it. They want to collaborate with the show and listing of show money after the Burberry 9 month show.

Of course, there are also very calm industry participants, such as Japanese department stores.

"To tell the truth, I am not influenced by myself at the moment.

The impact on my colleagues seems to be limited, and we are still waiting to see the future development.

Inuzuka Tomoko, chief buyer of Beam, a Japanese department store, said the interface news.

Some people stay where they are, and some choose to go first.

No one knows whether the forerunners can really stir up such a big wave and subvert the industry tradition of so many people guarding.

Even Bailey has said publicly that everything must be tried before we know it, because no one has done it in the past, and now it is impossible to decide whether someone will do it again.

But the answer should be coming soon.

According to the Bailey plan, they will soon produce the new season's design plant.

At the same time, he also wants to be earlier than usual.

Yes, photographers, advertising agencies and fashion magazines should become more busy and busy because of "show is sold".