Why More And More Fashion Designers Are Not Trying To Please The Public?

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Many years ago, fashion brands from the development of customized services, so far, through the accessories and clothing lines to contact a wide range of the mass market, thus forming the fashion industry today's operation mode.

But now the trend is beginning to reverse. According to the Wall Street journal, more and more brands are beginning to pay attention to the requirements of customized services and private customer service, and even many have decided to abandon large retailers instead of private clothes.

Private customers have been positioned as high-end rich people for a long time, but in fact, nowadays, people who are seeking customized services are not so limited. They may simply prefer an ordinary customer of a brand.

They will directly request designers, such as improving sleeves and necklines, or remaking the old ones.

This phenomenon has been formed since last year.

In the June 2015 article, Fashionista pointed out that for some young designers, private customers are the beginning of their career.

In terms of human nature, this is actually not difficult to understand.

Private customers are often accompanied by designers who start from scratch. They have their own preferences for products and will not simply choose the most expensive or the most exaggerated products.

"My customers are the reason why I started my business. I really enjoy the process of creating works and watching them dress according to everyone's temperament."

Katie Ermilio launched its own brand in 2009. After six years, those old customers are still the most loyal buyers. They provide fixed revenue for the brand.

Nowadays, more and more brand sponsorship is being developed.

Many of these designers are still in school. They do not have much experience in running a mature brand, nor are they able to deal with the problems that may arise in various channels.

We have discussed before that an independent designer can only announce the painful time after receiving the order from the retailer.

Independent designer Giovanna Randall has tried to dock with a large department store, but she did not find herself providing the brand awareness by entering famous retail stores. Finally, in 2015, she announced that she had ceased the production of garment series, and all businesses focused on "special orders and bridal clothes".

There are other reasons that have contributed to this situation, such as changing customer behaviour.

"Women are gradually taking the initiative in their hands," said Justin Kern, a designer of Losangeles brand Co, in an interview with the Wall Street journal.

Many female customers do not like to call for customer service. They prefer to send emails, especially when most fashion brands actually sell after-sale packages to retailers, making it difficult for small brands to be considerate.

Therefore, female customers are more and more fond of sending emails to their designers to express their needs, and brands are also eager to establish contacts with consumers for the needs of image maintenance.

In fact, this connection is very necessary.

You know, the meaning of advertising lies in strengthening the emotional links between brand and terminal customers, but small brands often do not have the financial resources to do large-scale marketing.

How to understand the needs of the market?

On the other hand, part of this change is attributable to the prevalence of social media.

In foreign countries, Marc Jacobs opened a personal account on Instagram, and domestic designers began to communicate with people in webcast. This is a way of direct communication.

Social media reduces the cost of communication, and retailers do not need to play an intermediary role.

Social media and other Internet tools also widen people's horizons, and retailers are unable to meet the special needs of customers.

For example, some brands now use Snapchat, Apple and other tools to broadcast the show. People can see all products.

But retailers often have a buyer's choice. They will consider their positioning and budget problems and will not move a designer's entire work to the store.

So people are more inclined to

Direct ordering is faster and more complete.

For the designer himself, providing private services is also a profitable business.

On the one hand, interest comes from price.

If we know the retailer's pricing strategy, we will know that the manufacturer sells goods to wholesalers and retailers, all of which are offered at a discount price. Generally speaking, the discount will reach 30% or even more, and the fashion industry may be higher because of the fear of over season.

In this way, retailers will be willing to buy in bulk.

But if designers sell directly to customers, they will not give you so much discount, and you can get a steady cash flow. For a start-up brand, cash flow is the most important.

For big brands,

It can also highlight brand value.

For example, last August, according to Vogue, Bottega Veneta has opened personalized service, and people can directly customize the leather products they want.

Each product will also be abbreviated on the silver label or leather with the name of the customer. Customers will be able to get the finished product within a few months.

However, such a pattern does not apply to low-end brands and designers.

This will cause trouble in the production process, because the lower the unit price of your product, the more the factory will demand for you.

This has become a personalized paradox, but for every brand, one thing is always right: the more you know who your customers are, the easier it is to succeed.