Interview With Art Master Yamamoto Teruji: Expressing Human Love In Black

15 years ago, Yamamoto Teruji, who was known as a "master of art" by journalists in the fashion industry, felt that he was getting farther and farther away from the fashion in everyday life, and his enthusiasm for design gradually cooled.

So he walked on the streets of New York, Paris and Tokyo, and saw the passers-by, who sprouted the idea of sports products. Then she contacted Adidas.

Y-3 is actually the abbreviation of "Yonji Number 3".

About Yamamoto Teruji

Yamamoto Teruji was born in Tokyo and graduated from Law School of Keio University. He chose to study fashion in the Institute of culture and clothing.

During the learning process, we won the awards such as "fashion court appreciation" and "far rattan appreciation".

In 1972, the personal brand Y 's was created, 5 years later.

Publish the first brand series of personal namesake.

In 1981, a series of works was released in Paris fashion week.

Since 1984, he has started publishing in Paris.

A series of "Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME".

In 2002, he worked with Adidas as the creative director of Y-3.

Yamamoto Teruji's design is famous for its simple and smooth lines, and the large area of black is also one of his characteristics.

In his interview with reporters in 1983, he said, "I designed it.

Women wear nice clothes. In turn, men can wear my designs.

I want to design neutral clothing for women. "

Summary of exclusive interview

In July this year, Yamamoto Teruji accepted an interview with WWD Japan. In the interview, he presented a truly authentic Yamamoto Teruji.

Q: when I mention Mr. Yamamoto, I think of black.

You often wear black clothes yourself, have you been like this since you were a teenager?

Yamamoto Teruji: when I was a teenager, I was very poor. I didn't understand what mother was doing and what I was wearing.

Q: are there things that must be done every day?

Yamamoto: at present, it takes an hour every morning to walk the dog in Castle Peak cemetery.

Three years ago, when I was raising this Akita dog, I was thinking, "well, let's both die together."

For dogs, taking a walk every day is an essential exercise. I drink a glass of water in the morning and go out.

NHK released a program about thrombus some time ago, saying that the best way to prevent it is to take a walk every morning.

After all, I am a person who can not quit smoking.

Q: Why did you go to the culture and Clothing Institute after graduating from the law department of Keio University?

Yamamoto: I tried very hard to get into the celebration, but my friends from the affiliated high school had no trouble, though they were very good.

Taking the exam is equivalent to a bright future, but it still feels unfair.

This inequity, I feel from 5, 6 years old, so after graduation, I want to have a "buffer" time, and later into the community.

Q: which school is popular among Keio University and culture and Clothing Institute?

Yamamoto: there are only 4 girls in the 60~70 boys in the law department, and boys are very gentle with girls.

But in the culture and Clothing Institute, there are only 100 boys in 10 thousand people, and only 70 boys in the class are 4 boys.

I was a monitor for some time. Some girls raised their hands and stood up and said, "please don't have a good relationship with a girl."

Q: some people say that you have "love and exploration of the world". What do you think of it?

Yamamoto: it's funny.

If I hadn't been a fashion designer, I would be a criminal.

When I was young, I was dissatisfied with social injustice. If I didn't put this kind of discontent into my costume, I might find other outlets.

Q: what kind of clothes are designed for people?

YAMAMOTO: at first, there is an ideal woman in my mind who does not exist in reality.

The woman stood on a hill and looked far away.

The wind blew through her hair. She smoked cigars and looked handsome.

Finally, she said, "I will not be a woman".

Originally designed for people who do not exist.

But recently it has been designed in a slightly easier way.

Recently, women have become a little earth.

Go shopping in fast fashion shop several times a day, and would like to tell them that choosing a dress is a choice of life.

I am designed for women who have such doubts.

.

Q: what does it mean for you to use "black"?

YAMAMOTO: when he was studying in the Institute of culture and clothing, he won the award of "far cane reward" named after the founder. He got the air ticket from Paris and 10 yen, and stayed in Paris for a year or so.

I learned Gao Ding costume design in school.

At that time, he was active in the high level stage.

and

But Yves Saint Laurent was not satisfied with the design work responsible for Dior, and also founded the same name garment brand.

At this point, the age of the advanced garment is coming.

The high school design I learned is useless at all. I felt nothing but frustration and despair.

Q: what do you think the men's clothing should have?

Yamamoto: in short, I think the Gypsies are handsome.

They carry all their bodies with them, not according to their clothes.

It's great to pick clothes for life, but I still can't match the gypsy's effect.

That's how I constantly challenge the styles of these vagrants.

Q: favorite series of conferences?

Yamamoto: there are two.

A show with wedding dress as the theme.

1999 spring summer series.

What I thought at the time was, what would happen if we used only the usual wedding dress with a compressed yarn to do a show? Another scene was a show at the Sorbonne University in Paris (Yohji Yamamoto 1994/95 autumn and winter, 95 spring and summer). In the hall, there were pictures of philosophers, scientists and writers.

So let models wear kimono to show off.

The collision between tradition and tradition should be very interesting, the key is the collision between them, and the result after collision is also very interesting.

Q: which category will your brand belong to?

Yamamoto: "pioneers".

Although it has now been classified as a vanguard faction, I do not want to be singled out as an avant-garde.

In extreme terms, it is self denial.

Q: what is the opinion of "show is to buy"?

Yamamoto: as they like.

Q: what are the designers who are active in the fashion industry from your door?

Yamamoto: Welcome to the hell (welcome to hell).

Q: for today's young Japanese

What are your suggestions?

Yamamoto: do what you like.

In comparison with this, I often wonder: why Japanese designers are not recognized by their own people? When the new mall opens, the 1 floor must be a famous overseas brand.

Japan does not own its own brand.

This leads to the development of young designers in Japan.

Want to be young

Say, "come on."

Q: what is the expectation for the reception methods of Yohji Yamamoto salesperson?

Yamamoto: Yes, it has always been, but failed.

The idea of preparing the Castle Peak shop is "as far as possible not to let people enter the store".

The shop assistants smoked cigarettes, and did not say "welcome". This disgusting atmosphere is my ideal.

Q: what is the future goal of the company?

Yamamoto: when I was alive, I made "Yohji Yamamoto" a world brand.

The so-called world brand refers to the brand that can open stores in department stores and shopping malls in Japan, China and around the world. 1

We are already a world brand, but the scale is not big enough.

But I am not pursuing the scale, but the brand like Louis Vuitton, which is not a big store but is concerned by the whole world.