Is The "Watching Buying" Mode Overturned People'S Expectations?

"The way to sell it first and then sell it to customers in four months is very old and unreasonable," Tom Ford said in February last year.

Later, he announced that he would join Burberry in September and turn to "seenow/buynow" sales mode.

It will be on sale immediately after the show.

Next, Tommy Hilfiger followed closely, and Ralph Lauren also joined.

For a time, the fashion industry is ready for a revolution.

6 months later, did the prophecy come true?

The answer is undoubtedly positive.

However, there are few examples to support their claims.

None of the international brands that are at the forefront of the "watch to buy" campaign can produce concrete figures to prove that the shopping fair can bring a surge in sales.

Several brands refused to comment on the strategic shift of the brand.

From this season, it seems that no new members are joining the "buy and sell" movement.

"At the moment, I do not see any company moving towards this pattern rashly," said Exane BNP Paribas, Paris.

Industry analyst Luca Solca said: "so far, the industry is still in the experimental stage."

Many brands that have led the trend are still betting on this season.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, last September, the Tommy Hilfiger brand launched the Tommy Now series, and built a "Tommy terminal" at the South Street Seaport (TommyPier), a fully equipped market, with Ferris wheel, lobster rolls, and temporary tattoo shops, with a weekly passenger flow exceeding 10 thousand.

The next show of the brand is held on Wednesday at Venice Beach in Losangeles, and is said to be larger.

Gigi Hadid is Tommy Hilfiger.

The "Tommyland" festival will be equipped with amusement facilities, graffiti artists, roller coaster, music performances, and boutiques.

Every product displayed on the show will be sold online immediately, and will appear in 280 stores in more than 70 countries in the world on the second day.

"We are conveying a desire for immediate satisfaction, blending fashion with popular culture," said designer Tommy Hilfiger.

Despite the considerable cost of restructuring the brand, Avery Baker, chief brand manager of Tommy Hilfiger, said that after the launch of Tommy Now, Tommy.com's website traffic increased by 900% in 48 hours.

Within 24 hours, many designs were sold out. After the fashion show in September, sales of women's clothing increased by two digits. Sales in the US, Japan and China were excellent.

By the end of October 30th, the third quarter sales of the brand increased by 4% compared with the same period last year, reaching 927 million US dollars, mainly driven by the growth of international sales volume.

However, according to the parent company PVH report, sales of their stores in North American tourist areas have dropped significantly.

"Obviously, we still have a lot to learn," Baker said. "This pformation of operational mode requires teamwork among teams.

Usually they work in a relatively isolated way.

This process is very exciting and intense.

On the other side of the Atlantic, Burberry is preparing for the second "fashion show" fashion show, which is inspired by artist Henry Moore and will be held in February 20th.

In September last year, the first "watch to buy" campaign created 15 million of the social media browsing volume for Burberry.

Subsequently, the army jacket and saddle bag immediately sold (the brand now sells third styles) has made strong sales.

Although Burberry did not publish the relevant data, Charlotte Cowley, director of investment relations, said the series was "extremely popular" and showed "excellent business results" in the update of analysts' trading last month.

Last September, London Fashion Week Burberry show.

The buyer of the electricity supplier and the entity shopping mall also seemed to agree.

Alison Loehnis, President of Net-a-Porter, said that although the proportion of products bought in her website is small, such products may become popular, especially among younger customers (Kit Yarrow, a consumer psychologist, calls them a generation that I want now.

)

"This is not just a marketing tool," Loehnis said. "That is to say, buying is also a way to make customers" wear it right away ", making the quarter a more realistic concept for global retailers and customers.

Ken Downing is the fashion director of Neiman Marcus.

The US dealer has worked with Rebecca Minkoff, Burberry, Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren's "watch to buy" series. He said: "this new mode is simple and effective.

We quietly selected the unpublished samples in the exhibition room, and the selected products were directly put into production without going through the show.

Downing said he found that many brands had the "glimming effect", which means that "buy and sell" promoted the sales of cosmetics or accessories.

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"Customers are tired of the products before they are put on the shelves. This is a problem for us," he said. "But at present, the dealer's trading environment is very difficult. Therefore, considering the healthy development of the whole industry, this mode of change will enable more fashion groups to realize that they have to accept in some way."

The great changes in the enterprise structure require relevant process personnel to change their concepts, and investors also include them.

Ralph Lauren was one of the first brands to buy and sell. They practiced this pattern in the upper east side of Manhattan last September.

But CEO Stefan Larsson, who was hired in 2015, originally wanted to help brands keep pace with the times. He resigned last week because he had a disagreement with designer Ralph Lauren in "product, shopping and market experience".

(Larsson used to be an advocate of buying and selling mode.

)

On the day of the announcement, the company's share price fell 12% to 76.61 dollars, resulting in the biggest one-day decline in the year.

Even before the crash, stocks fell 22% in the first 12 months.

This may explain why some people think that the middle position is the best choice.

Ralph Lauren fashion show and shopping party

Massimo Ferretti is the CEO of Aeffe, which is the parent company of Italy brand Moschino and Alberta Ferretti. It is also the early adopter of the showcase capsule mode.

In 2014, Jeremy Scott's Moschino debut was their first attempt.

Today, about 10% of Moschino's business comes from buy and sell. Before February 23rd fashion week in Milan, they will produce 38 thousand products and 10 thousand mobile phone shells.

However, Ferretti said, "I will never consider turning all my business into a new experimental strategy.

In the final analysis, making high-quality garments requires time and time to achieve real creativity and quality, so that the brand can flourish and develop.

It is unthinkable to complete creative and mass production three months ahead of schedule. "

His sister Alberta Ferretti also agreed.

Last month, she just launched the "Rainbow Week" capsule series.

"Our earliest design works have been sold out all over the world, but those are 7 cashmere sweaters of different colors," Ms. Ferretti said. "Beautiful and practical clothes, but for us, this is a product that is easier to design and produce, which is very different from the show series and the preview series."

Heather Gramston, the purchasing manager of women's clothing in Selfridges shopping mall, said that although people pretended to buy it, it didn't replace the traditional fashion purchase schedule, but for dealers, brands and consumers, it means "buying one more choice".

"The traditional quarterly distribution model is still the basis for most of our procurement arrangements," Gramston said. "This approach is not yet out of date."

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