Su Five: Difference Between Cheap And Expensive

According to the world clothing and shoe net, recently, the five Shanghai, which has attracted much attention from the "plagiarism series", has come to Shanghai, and has held a pop-up store with Shangguan Zhe's "no cooperation series" at DOE Road shop, and has had a long and deep dialogue with fans. Before sharing the meeting, we also played with the wandering between fashion and street, but not by reason. Designer I had a chat. In the face of the problems we are preparing, the answers given by Su five are just as straightforward as This's is a tattoo and This is another tattoo.

In the initial period of time, the brand name of "PURLICUE" has always changed slightly. "PERLICUE" and "PURLICU" have appeared. What are the reasons? The Chinese spanlation of PURLICUE is the gap between thumb and index finger. How do you think of using this word as brand name?

In fact, I wasn't sure at the beginning. clothing I want to try and sell it before registering. After trying for a while, when I need to consider the brand name, I found the word "PURLICUE" in the dictionary. It originated from Scotland dialect, so it has never been registered. But because it is really too remote, I often forget how to spell it. (laughter) so all the other words except "PURLICUE" are spelling mistakes, but I will take the PURLICUE and PERLICUE two. brand The names have been registered.

You've done other brands like Bananasmile and Conpconp before. Why do you want to do these different brands?

Conpconp is the name of the Taobao shop. Bananasmile brand was founded in my university days. At that time, I liked street culture very much, so I did not think about it. Now there will be some clothing products from time to time, so long as there is a market for them, they will be put on sale.

Have you ever launched a school uniform with senior high school? What is the original intention of this cooperation?

First of all, I like the uniform very much before I notice the part of the clothing industry. Besides, my major is architectural design, influenced by architecture, I like something with huge volume, huge repetition, and uniforms belong to this category. Finally, this project is also a push for school uniforms. It is a continuous project, so cooperative schools are also increasing. From the first one to the present four, the total scale now has about a few thousand people. According to the different requirements of the other party, we also make sportswear and dress and uniform at the same time.

Many people commented that your work is a product of public opinion. How do you view this view?

I recently saw a variety show, which hosts a famous saying, "I am deeply mistaken about being misunderstood as a fatality for expressing myself". If you cry or laugh, or speak, any expression will surely have incidental products, and it will also be misunderstood, but that is not very important. Output itself is important. It is also an expression to make a series of plagiarism, or to appear in DOE, or even to do exhibitions. The plagiarism series covers 30 sections, and it is also a very extreme concept. The style of this series comes from some brands that I usually like to wear. I moved all the old clothes in the wardrobe out to make a model. The sense of strength on this scale is enough. In fact, it was very important for us to have the courage to decide whether to make this expression at first, because it is very risky. If there is no market at last, the company may go bankrupt. But when you express the product and get some positive reactions, more people will pay attention to it.

There are many very straightforward elements in your work, such as "tag 1", "this is a shirt", "belt", "this canvas shoe is plagiarized" and so on. Is it symbolic? What is the meaning of it?

This is a kind of material expression, this expression method will be used in many structural designs. There are such elements in the design of Maison Margiela and OFF-WHITE, but each person's original intention may not be the same. My personal concern is very objective and materiality: many clothes designers take samples of others to make clothes, just like an open secret, but no one talks about it, so I want to spanlate this phenomenon. The theme of "plagiarism series" is essentially the same as those in the works, which are all describing things themselves.

Is the plagiarism series a satire or a default on domestic brands?

It is neither satire nor acquiescence. I think the meaning of "plagiarism series" made by a Chinese designer is much greater than that of other countries. No matter whether it is plagiarism or other models, it may not be decent enough, but these behaviors are indeed part of the lifeline of China's clothing industry. To be more extreme, I am not designing, but spanlating the whole scene into a series. And this is consistent with what I call material and gross.

Before the plagiarism series, you have made a real leather shoes that are very similar to Jack Purcell. What angle did you use to make these two products at that time?

Because I like CONVERSE's smile very much, I really want to make it in the form of real leather. But I don't know what color to set, so I'll go on according to the color card's color system. Pink and brick are made by linking more customers.

In many people's eyes, plagiarism series and the special design form of "Please steal this clothing" are more artistic than clothing itself. What do you think of them? Is there a relative proportion?

Like the previous answer, I only care about the output itself and do not want to define it. I like clothes and street culture, and I also like behavior art. The dress I wear is UNIQLO, and I also like this brand. All the above elements became part of my character, so I thought of such an act to connect them all together.

If UNIQLO wants to cooperate with you?

I will immediately promise that I do not like UNIQLO's specific product, but I am very interested in its culture, market positioning, self definition of technology companies and fabric development. From an architectural point of view, UNIQLO is like a bridge, a traffic light, and a zebra crossing, which is close to a social infrastructure.

From this perspective, do you understand that UNIQLO is a bit like FACEBOOK social media?

Yes, in fact, social media is also a social infrastructure. So it's boring to be an independent designer. It's not big enough, it's not rich enough. It's not really related to people's life.

How do you view intellectual property rights? Have you ever thought about getting into trouble before launching your work?

My influence is very small and should not reach the level of infringement. I just made those products with interest and none of the others. If you are in trouble, you can only take one step at a time. But for now, the party I copied, including Nike and CONVERSE, is still very open. They interpret these products as an artistic activity.

In the promotional video, you mentioned "I am not very interested in creativity, and I am interested in reality and phenomena". Money is a reality that everyone cares about in this society. What does it mean to you?

Money must be very important. For the series I am doing now, I am only satisfied with the concept, but not satisfied with the expression. After all, goods need to be sold, so I will consciously cater for some current trends, such as street and retro elements and popular colors. At the commercial level, I also focus on the practicality of clothing itself. But if we simply consider the artistry and make this series more extreme, it will be very simple and without any characteristics. Such concepts and forms are hard to understand, and there must be no market. But some masters, such as Andy Warhol, can achieve both artistic expectations and business balance. This is my goal. I am still trying to explore how to integrate the two perfectly. Soon, I will have some operations in the second half of this year to balance art and business.

Do you have any domestic brands you appreciate?

My favorite is Shangguan Zhe. He himself is very powerful, which is in line with the scale and Volume I have just said. It is a very pure and difficult way to achieve. This is very rare, because now many people have mastered the modular skills and rules, such as the location of colors and patterns, and so on. Of course, I also master these skills, because there is a need for business balance. But the so-called law of mind is without skill. I have always liked DOE very much. It has a special pure and original street sense. DOE's Slogan "BE FORMLESS", which is a kind of mental law. In fact, these two brands are very extreme to me. One is to pursue breakthroughs, the other is to pursue the traditional integrity of street brands. Both of them are very attractive to me because they all stick to their own system.

Now that Taobao has your fake clothes, what do you think of other people's plagiarism?

Their plagiarism and my plagiarism are the same, but the starting points are different. Just like you may attack a person because he hates to hurt others, or because it is a war, you need to protect your country. So again, "plagiarism series", it is a neutral word, just spanlated a phenomenon.

Because the non cooperation series shows in the fashion week of Shanghai, you chose the core area of Shanghai. The main entrance of the shopping mall is facing the front door of Shanghai fashion week. Your micro-blog mentioned that you want to make the street culture go against the invasion of the traditional high level shopping mall, and the contradiction between the cheap and the high level exists. Why do you choose DOE to make a pop-up store this time?

Because many people may think that I am doing art of behavior, or even more fashionable, but I still like the connotation of the street very much, so I can express this part in DOE. So the styles displayed here are special streets, and also conform to the DOE concept.

Which one do you choose to wear "Cheap" and "Expensive" in the non cooperative series?

Because this series is made by myself, so I personally don't care. No matter which style of the two fabrics and crafts are the same, only the price is different.

Why do not cooperate in the series "Cheap" and "Expensive" shoes are only 1 yuan, 1.1 yuan less than a series of shirts, and tee is 1800 yuan?

The original intention is to express the concept of non cooperation. In order to enrich it, we need to put different expressions into it, and it will be complete. In terms of pricing, we use different price segments to express. In real life, there is pricing 399 phenomenon, and I spanlated it equally. But because it is the real retail price, I also set the price under the cost and profit trade-off.

The tee Expensive with "tee" does not consider sales volume, does it? I see that there are three customers on the purchase, will there be a feeling of overjoyed?

Yes, no consideration, pure expression. I am very pleased to have the privilege of giving them a prize. They are all heroes. (laughter) I didn't give them a special gift either. I hope they can feel my gratitude when they see this interview.

It is understood that Opening Ceremony has sold your shoes before, but it may result in a high price because of customs and logistics relations. Is the sales situation affected? Are there any other buyer shops at home and abroad to order from you?

In fact, the sale of Opening Ceremony was still available, and the official website sold out for a week. Now, there are about ten buyer shops in the country who will place orders with us, including BADMARKET in Guangzhou, Guangzhou and Chengdu. I have recently talked with the pillars.

Do you have any new plans?

I tried very hard to think, but I had no idea. In the future, the main direction should be against my current brand, that is, anti PURLICUE. Actually, I am not very interested in independent designers. Maybe in a year or so, I will still design and make clothes, but not in the present system. I really don't like being interviewed or doing lectures.

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