What Makes The Focus That Once Was The Focus Of The Show Is The Lack Of Vitality?

This has become the hottest word in the fashion industry last year. At the same time, we have discussed countless business models in the 2018 spring and summer of September in New York.

It's a bit of a slump.

Although there are still Ralph Lauren

Insisting, but most of the brands who have been optimistic about this model are now black and white.

This situation is a bit sad, because the United States is the place where the show is bought. Once the fashion people in Europe did not value it, now its native people are also preparing to abandon it.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, since February this year, more and more brands are no longer using the show buying mode.

Compared with the peak period of more than a year ago, this way of trying to change the rules of fashion week and advanced garment production has no longer been in the US.

Even the three innovators, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford, who first launched the show, that is, buying sports, are unable to call on more followers, though two of them are sticking to it after the abandonment of Tom Ford.

This season, in the past, Tommy Hilfiger, who chose to walk in the US, moved the new series of news to London, and TOPSHOP, Burberry and Mother of Pearl became the four brands in the London Fashion week.

What made the show that was once the focus of the discussion, that is, buying no vitality?

The problem is that today's fashion industry has reached a certain balance.

In the early days of the show, everyone blamed the problem of the fashion industry on institutional issues. With the popularity of social media, consumers could not wait for 6 months after seeing the new fashion week.

But it has proved that this model has been precipitated for decades or even a hundred years, which is most suitable for the clothing industry and consumer psychology. That is, show buying can create a topic, but it is not so logical in business logic.

To this end, early participation in the Rebecca Minkoff of the show's buying camp was calculated. In order for the new series to be purchased immediately after the press conference, she and her team had to invest three months in preparation.

First of all, the company has to find a new factory ahead of time, willing to accept small orders, and produce quickly.

But if the brand was previously produced in Asia, the supply chain could be longer, so the company had to diversify production and start working with factories in Europe and America to catch up with the show.

This is not finished. Brand must also make a brand new plan to contact with wholesalers. They have 85% of the sales volume of the brand. They must understand the logic of show buying, which means that before the show, you'd better let them see all the samples and let them know what will be released to T stations and consumers in the near future.

This is a great challenge and pformation, and designers are becoming more fearful.

So for the evolution of this model, the pformation of human thinking is the most difficult.

Thakoon is also an earlier claim in the US brand to use the show to buy, but in March this year, the brand chose to abort the plan. It only had two series to really use the new mode and returned to its original point.

In explaining this change, Bright Fame Fashion, the brand holder, said that show buying was a bit too advanced, and it was reshaping the whole industry structure.

Judging from the members who are still supporting this model, this model has already started to go to extremes.

There are two types of brands standing opposite each other. On the other hand, the big brands with financial resources already have basically vertically integrated supply chains, such as Burberry, Ralph Lauren and so on. On the other hand, small brands are not able to connect their direct business and wholesale cooperation.

Therefore, large brands have the ability to take part of the products to do the show or buy. The small brands are difficult to change due to the small amount of orders.

What is really confused is those medium-sized brands. Interestingly, these brands are just some mature designer brands.

After the experiment, they found that they were still suitable for selling wholesale business to retailers, so as not to be overloaded with overly productive schedules.

For them, the core of the brand is mostly on products, rather than direct operation strategy such as retail operation.

Distribution and marketing will also consume a lot of time and cost. That is, show buying requires brand planning and self-reliance, which is not fully taken into account by many medium-sized brands.

Many people think that when they first know how to buy it, they think it is just a change in the agenda, but they do not realize its essence. In fact, it is a direct selling mode.

For most brands, infrastructure and scope have not yet reached that level.

When you want to get rid of the middleman, the brand takes all responsibility, so you have to take another big platform as support.

"This is a big challenge for small brands and designer brands," said Elizabeth Stafford, general manager of customer service and strategy consulting firms Sullivan. "They are not yet in mass production."

Besides, a big reason why many brands are deterred from instant show is that this model can not guarantee that consumers can buy what they want.

We have said in the analysis of Burberry's instant show buying mode that even such a large fashion group has invested only a small proportion in the production process of the show.

Moreover, it is not the show money that ultimately supports its sales, but the underlying products that are related to the theme of the show, but the price is lower, and these products are the largest part of the luxury sales.

As a result, many brands began to be ambivalent about the way to show or buy. For example, Mary Beech, chief marketing officer of Kate Spade, once said that the first series of products they bought in February 2017 was very successful. But by the autumn and winter series this year, it has switched back to the traditional mode. It is enough to see that show buying does have some positive performance in sales, but the impact of input and return ratio is not big enough.

This makes the show or purchase gradually become a marketing gimmick, but with the cooling of the hot spots, the future of show buying has also become very uncertain. This struggling new mode seems to be hard to resist the fate of decline.

More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.