2018 Milan Men'S Wear Week Men'S Wear Market "Condensed"
The world clothing shoes and hats online news, in January 15th, ended 2018 Milan men's clothing week travel fashion personage hurried to the next station Paris.
What's interesting is that this autumn and winter.
Milano Moda Uomo
Surprisingly short, reduced to 4 days, while Paris men's wear week extended from the original 5 days to 6 days.
On the one hand, a large number of famous brands have dropped out of the men's wear show, such as Gucci, Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta.
According to the latest statement by the American Fashion Designers Association CFDA, the youngest fashion week in New York is going to merge the 2018 fashion week for men and women.
On the other hand, there are also some brands that choose to turn around. For example, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler decided to quit the fashion week in New York and hold a press conference in Paris.
Such a choice is also based on factors such as investment return, brand communication power and so on.
In addition to brand exit,
Designer
The turbulence of personnel has also become the focus of attention in this fashion week.
In January 17th, WWD reported that Kim Vuitton, the creative director of Louis Vuitton men's wear, will be leaving. Paris's autumn and winter series is his last design for Louis Vuitton.
Compared with the shrinking men's clothing week and the turbulent fashion circle, men's luxury goods sales are rising steadily.
Recently, the 2017 China Luxury Market Research Report released by Bain showed that the sales of men's wear increased by 8% in the Chinese market in 2017.
How to improve fashion display and get the favor of millennials is still a topic for men's clothing brands to think about.
New and old
brand
Join the battle array
Although Milan men's clothing week has no Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and other brand holdings, but this year Prada, Fendi, Dolce&Gabbana, Giorgio Armani still has its own advantages.
In the big warehouse Warehouse, which holds the Prada conference, you can look for various elements in the old Prada series.
Geometric printing, flame pattern, banana design, flower graphics and other symbolic printing "mix and match" in the new season of men's clothing, showing the history and glory of Prada, the nostalgia style is strong.
The most nostalgic one should be a black nylon material. The Prada invited four creative experts from the construction industry to design nylon materials.
The German industrial designer, Konstantin Grcic, designed aprons and wind caps for Prada. The design team of Beijing bird nest, Herzog & de Meuron, made the alphabetic nylon shirts. The Rem CCTV of Beijing CCTV "big trousers" designed the knapsack tops, and the French brothers design Ronan Bouroullec and the Ronan together designed the nylon handle folder.
Giorgio Armani has also maintained the tradition of tailored refinement and added a sports style to the costumes.
Double breasted coat, new jacket jacket with built-in shawls, removable shirt collar, jogging pants or sports pants, and velvet material adds elegance and leisurely feeling to traditional suits.
Fendi takes travel as the theme, with all kinds of single products decorated with prominent company logo.
Models wear long fur coats, stratified jackets, or retro suits, with mink fur suitcases.
At the same time, there are many new brands in Milan fashion week, including Japan's cutting-edge brand Sulvam, Yoshio Kubo and so on.
In addition, Angelo Flaccavento wrote on Business of Fashion, Italy designer Federico Curradi has excellent color matching ability and casual fabrics, but these young fashions are not able to get a good time in men's week, and the show is not amazing enough.
But even if the schedule is in order, the big brands still dominate the whole process, and one of their important exhibition hall appointments and press conferences is one after another.
"The Italy brand that once dominated the fashion world has now become a follower.
As for young brands, there is no mature new class at the moment, and they really carved their own mark, "Angelo Flaccavento commented." on the whole, the big brands reiterate their styles, passwords, priorities and determination.
Prada black nylon, Versace Baroque printing, Fendi double F logo are the same.
What young customers obviously crave are things that can't be said to have history.
But playing nostalgia is dangerous.
Changing men's clothing market
In the growing concentration of men's wear week, the big brands are becoming more and more careful, with women's wear on display and video distribution.
On the other hand, the big "retreat" also gave the new brands more opportunities to display, but the high cost and the designer's "bad luck" also caused trouble.
These are reflected in the price performance of fashion show, the changes in the consumption habits of young people, and the constant changes in the market of men's wear and luxury goods.
Such changes are first reflected in the departure of men's designers.
In addition to the recent departure of Louis Vuitton design director, in 2016, Ermenegildo Zegna's fashion design director Stefano Pilati, Salvatore Ferragamo's creative director Massimiliano Giornett left their respective companies; in 2015, Alexander left the house of Paris.
The background of personnel changes is the continued decline in the luxury market in the past two years. Until 2017, the luxury market was showing signs of recovery.
Compared to the previous closing tide, men's clothing performance has rebounded.
In recent years, the net profit of men's clothing in the third quarter of Hugo Boss2017 has reached 80 million euros, of which the sales of men's clothing is 635 million euros, and the adjusted value of the currency has reached 4%. In the first quarter of 2017, the net profit of Hugo Boss rose 25% to 48 million euros, of which the total sales of men's clothing was 577 million euros, accounting for 88.6% of total sales.
According to Bain's 2017 China Luxury Market Research Report, new consumers, especially the millennials, have become the main source of market growth momentum.
The millennial generation is very familiar with digital technology and applications, and has a deep understanding of luxury goods.
They love "fashion leisure", love designer brand, start buying luxury goods at a lower age, and buy more frequently.
It can be seen that the major brands are constantly moving towards the street breeze, leisure wind and sportswear to win the hearts of young consumers, such as the integration of Louis Vuitton and Supreme, the cooperation between Gucci and baseball league.
In Paris men's wear week, Chao brand is also playing an increasingly important role. Among them, luxury brands such as Off-White and Nike, Warby Parker, Ikea, Jimmy Choo, Levi's, the New York, the and so on, all have cross-border cooperation.
Thomas Chauvet, a luxury analyst at Citibank London, said that the total sales volume of men's clothing industry is still strong, thanks to the gradual acceptance of fashion by men in recent years. Chauvet said: "luxury men's wear is expected to exceed women's clothing."
Statistics show that the total sales volume of Italy men's fashion market in 2017 reached about 9 billion 200 million euros, an increase of 2.1% over the same period last year, and men's clothing exports accounted for more than 65% of the entire Italy men's clothing market.
Among them, Italy men's clothing exports to mainland China in 2017 increased by 17.1%.
Since 2010, the volume of exports has increased significantly, and this trend will continue in the new year.
It is estimated that the export volume of men's clothing in Italy will increase by 3% in 2018, and the total export volume will reach about 6 billion euros.
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