[Close-Up] In Beijing, There Is A Glass House Recording The Changes In Fashion Over The Past 8 Years.

In the interview with the big battle, DSM global president Adrian Joffe chose to use his Buddhist spirit to explain the change: "you know, I am not the kind of person to be a five year plan."

Activity intensive Beijing Sanlitun Taigu Li night, walking in the crowd surrounded by the crowd is common.

Last Friday was no exception. In March 30th, when the cold face DJ from Russia played the magic rhythm, a brand celebrated "restarting" in Sanlitun's Taigu North District. It was once I.T Bejing Market, now the Dover Street Market Beijing.

The news of renaming was actually announced in February 3rd, symbolizing that the brand has come to a new stage along with the development of city, block and industry, but most tourists and consumers may not have noticed this change.

Because in the past few years, this boutique store is almost the same as the glass house with black spots.

Its entrance to the junction of Sanlitun's northern and southern regions is very eye-catching and often appears in various movie and TV dramas.

In it, you can buy the most fashionable or limited fashion items in the world.

For the fashion industry, however, the significance of the building renamed is more than just a few letters on the surface.

Born in London in 2004, Dover Street Market (general plation of Denver street fair, hereinafter referred to as DSM) was created by the famous Japanese fashion designer Chuan Jiu Bao Ling. It sold and sold the civilian and high-end designer brands in the form of market and art. After that, it opened up a new retail mode. Its status is very important in the global fashion industry and fashion pilgrims.

When it chose to enter China, Beijing Sanlitun Taigu Li has just been in operation for 2 years.

In December 2010, the 20 thousand square foot building with the concept of Dover Street Market was completed in the northern part of Sanlitun.

The managers of this house are optimistic about the potential of the region in shaping the fashion atmosphere of the capital, even though Sanlitun was far from the current landmark.

DSMB

Adrian Joffe and his DSM team

8 years of maturity for cities, landmarks and brands

The store opened in 2010 by DSM and the fashion group I.T of Hongkong.

Unlike Direct stores in London and Tokyo, Beijing store is responsible for daily operation and management by I.T, and the overall creative direction of DSM planning.

In 2016 and interface interviews, COMME des GARCONS group president and DSM International director Adrian Joffe explained why: "in mainland China, there will be some difficulties in opening Dover Street Market directly, and for those who are not familiar with us, there may be some cognitive problems, so we want to convert the name to I.T Beijing, which will be much better."

At that time, the I.T group was already a well-known fashion collection brand in the mainland.

As early as 2002, group president Shen Jiawei began to walk out of Hongkong's northbound extension road. Shanghai flagship store became its first store outside Hongkong. 3 years later, I.T was listed in Hongkong. By 2015, the company which started in a small clothing store has become a buyer shop kingdom with more than 300 shops.

And its sales of international brands have reached 300, while holding several self created brands and franchise rights.

Borrowing the mature resources of I.T in China, ITBM has quicker bridged the gap between emerging buyer shops and unfamiliar markets, though Joffe, who is the husband of Chuan Jiu Bao Ling, is no stranger to Asian culture. He majored in Oriental and Tibet culture while he was majoring in University, and then went to Tokyo to help her sister Rose Joffe's knitting clothing company to take charge of brand licensing.

After marrying Wakubo Rei, DSM returned to Tokyo from London in 2006, opening the new Asian market of multi brand collections.

However, few people know the origin of Joffe and I.T.

25 years ago, a woman representing I.T asked whether Joffe could cooperate with DSM.

However, at that time, DSM and Hongkong's Joyce boutique signed an exclusive cooperation agreement to sell Wakubo Rei's brand name COMME des GARCONS (CdG). The initial contact between I.T and DSM failed. "So she waited for 10 years, and every season came to me every year, and I always said no, until we finally got together, we were very happy."

Joffe said.

According to Joffe's view of the interface, the woman who has left I.T now should be someone who contacted Shen Jiawei earlier.

In the 3 years after the opening of CdG's fourth global stores in Hongkong in 2007, ITBM was born.

Following the design of London store and Tokyo store, ITBM sells the first-rate luxury brand and all kinds of tide cards in the same store with artistic display and layout brand.

This product mix is different from those used by Chinese mainstream shopping centers and department stores.

Despite the restriction of home purchase and the pfer of hot spots from retailers, the real estate sector was considered the first year of commercial real estate, especially the comprehensive shopping center in 2009. However, the multi brand buyer group store model originated in Europe, like DSM, is still not the mainstream. They only appear sporadically in cities such as Shanghai.

First, not to mention whether this mode is accepted by the public, just as the brand that was settled in ITBM was still in the stage of market education in the mainland, including Alaia, Alexander McQueen, Dior Homme, Maison Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, and dozens of high-end designer brands. Of course, it will not forget the "Margiela" and its various kinds of sub lines, such as the company, the company, and so on.

Wakubo Rei and Adrian Joffe

After that, ITBM continued to be local.

The need to adjust the brand matrix, for example, according to the needs of the fans, the introduction of the right personal brand.

In 2014, ITBM also upgraded the space, finding young artists Scott Hove and Clemens Behr to create a new fitting room.

All of these measures made it fast pursuit.

Young people are looking for new products.

"Each of our stores is very special, because local buildings, weather and consumers are different. For us, we will strive to do localization.

stay

We do it in a very Beijing way. "

Joffe represents the interface.

But local consumers have a more specific perception of the changes over the past 8 years.

In 2011, general micro-blog 79, a general in the maze of micro-blog, said, "I.T Beijing Market is even more than guests.

But in the corner, I was surprised to find the leather jacket of the 100 years old Lewis Leather locomotive in England.

Since then, ITBM has also undertaken many exhibitions of Japanese brands such as ANREALAGE in Beijing. It has become a window for consumers to see the trend of Japanese fashion.

With the deepening of China's internationalization, this maternal fetal advantage gradually develops to a broader dimension. Following the establishment of Dior Pop up Store in 2013, many luxury goods such as LOEWE have been selected in ITBM, but now, the innovative retail mode, which has become a general business mode, is also practiced in stores before and after 2015.

This means that ITBM has surpassed the border of selling, and is more like an emerging retail field in China.

Fitting room in the shop

Display on the first floor

Let "off the shelf" become the core.

However, internationalization also brings new problems. DSM's "cognitive difficulties" which may have been worried in the past may change to "cognitive confusion".

Qin Xiaoge, who once studied in Europe, does not belong to a senior fashion lover. But as a girl who likes to buy clothes, she has heard the name of "Wakubo Ling" and "Denver Street".

But when she introduced her name to ITBM, her reply was, "do you mean the big I.T in the North District?"

Big I.T is one of the differentiated operation modes of I.T group. Chen Huijun, general manager of group China, once explained in the interview of Yoka fashion net that the main selling of I.T is the collection of European designer fashion brands, which belongs to the category of luxury goods, while small I.T is relatively middle class, made up of brands such as Japan and the private brand of I.T group.

Obviously, because of the depth of I.T in the local market and the lack of DSM in ITBM, its brand recognition is not enough in the Chinese mass market.

In fact, for DSM, the current Chinese market environment has already passed 8 years ago.

China's younger generation has a high ability to accept new brands. According to McKinsey's 2017 China fashion industry report, "Chinese consumers are no longer satisfied with the sense of gregarious brought by well-known international brand labels. They attach more importance to the connection between brands and their own values, like to meet and express their demands by choosing different international brands, while more and more consumers are willing to pay a premium for better shopping experience and entertainment services at the moment of experiential consumption.

DSM is just the forerunner of multi brand and experiential consumption.

According to the brand cognition theory put forward by David A. Aaker, the father of brand equity in the US in 1980s, when a brand's market dignity is higher than its cognition, its response is just a benign brand development state.

This shows that consumers have high evaluation of the brand, and expect to further understand its wishes.

If the brand consciously manages cognition, it will soon be positively rewarded.

And when I.T Bejing Market is renamed Dover Street Market Beijing (later referred to as DSMB), it also means that Beijing shop no longer sounds like an "extra member".

"For us, the first important thing this year is that we have Dover Street Market Beijing, which has become part of our family.

When we enter a new stage, it means that our cooperation will be closer, and the creative participation in Beijing stores will be even higher.

Joffe explains to the interface: "China is a very important market. Of course, it has always been, but now it is getting better and better. So we want to bring more interesting things to us at this time.

The link between China and the world is deepening. It should no longer be regarded as a core member, but should be an important part of it. "

According to the two sides of DSM and I.T, renaming this time will not change the division of labor between them.

But in order to show the importance of this new core member, in this celebration, Joffe almost brought its whole team from the international vice president Dickon Bowden, the general manager James Gilchrist to the London store store operation and project leader Richard Windsor and other important sub managers, and the Russian designer, Gosha Rubchinskiy, the British designer Simone Tan, and the latest French designer of the design award, who had close cooperation with the DSM team.

In addition, I.T group CCO Zheng Jingshan (Deborah Cheng), visual director Eunice Ko, women's wear buyer director Tracey Cheng, Menswear buyer director David Fung also attended the celebration.

Of course, this important moment should be custom-made too. Avi Gold from Italy, Canada, has been invited to make a street dog hot dog stand outside DSMB, and its crossover products such as socks, sweater and so on will also be sold on the first floor.

The renovated building will also be unveiled in August this year.

Hot dog stand made by Avi Gold

Souvenirs can be sold.

Follow your feelings.

In fact, Joffe is intending to let all DSM stores outside London's first store enter a new stage of development.

From a macro perspective, "we will bring more interesting things to all points outside London."

In addition to the Beijing store, DSM has second important things to do in 2018. It will open the Losangeles store Dover Street Market LA in September, which is the sixth store of DSM.

At present, another new store in DSM, Singapore's store, has been opened in July last year.

Recently, Joffe also revealed that CdG will increase the news of eighteenth sub brands and say it will operate online.

You know, Joffe has always been cautious about business strategy. He has repeatedly expressed his dislike of fast fashion and extremely commercial means, but this time he added so many businesses in one year, it has been regarded as excessive development.

In the interview with the interface, Joffe still produced his consistent "Buddha system" answer to explain his decision: "I know that the commercial level will set a 5 year plan and a 7 year plan very often, but I never seem to figure out what the meaning of these plans is.

We really did not have a definite plan to follow our own rhythm.

In the story of Joffe, opening a shop is like an easy thing to follow. "One day I met a man and said," go, go to LA and open a shop! "I thought," OK, let me see. "

As a result, a very good building was found in LA.

In Singapore, too, someone told me that they were building a nice new park, and I said, "well, I'll think about it." finally, I thought it was a good place, and that was the moment, it felt right.

But if you really understand this way, you are totally wrong.

Because there is no uniform standard for the correctness of this feeling.

In terms of location, DSM's store in London is located in the Central District Haymarket, and the Tokyo store is also in the most prosperous Ginza. However, New York store has chosen Lexington Avenue near four blocks without major stores.

Because DSM has relatively high requirements for the uniqueness of architecture, it is also destined that the expansion of DSM will not be too frequent.

It's difficult to open a shop. It's not easy to find a good building, for example, it's very difficult in Hongkong.

The size of our team is now around 60 people in Tokyo, London, and 25 people are smaller in Singapore, so there are no other new stores at present.

Joffe says.

In Singapore, DSM has chosen to cooperate with COMO Dempsey, a local company, which is a subsidiary of Asia luxury chain group Club 21.

The Singapore store is located in an old military camp in Downing village. Next to it is a COMO Dempsey concept restaurant and bar, which is run by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, the French restaurant owner.

Relying on the environment, the Singapore store has a high ceiling and a small house full of jewellery.

In addition to upgrading the space design of global stores, DSM is also trying to integrate with the culture of its location so as to provide more unique products.

According to Joffe, in September this year, a series of products will be listed in the DSM stores around the world, which will cooperate with local tattoo communities in Singapore.

In fact, this cooperation mode is also good for resisting the emerging buyers' shops. They also attach importance to display, design and artistic expression.

Display of Simone Rocha in DSMB

Adrian Joffe and Gosha Rubchinskiy

Increasing the brand share of young designers is the future direction of DSM development.

For young designers, this is a rare opportunity.

American model Edie Campbell explained to Glossy that this is because DSM not only has global influence, but also gives designers free space to create.

Recently, Irish designer Simone Rocha also said to the interface: "they really encourage new designers and show enough respect. They really care what you want to do."

For the first time, Simone Rocha put its works in DSM, which was sold in the spring and summer series in 2018. The female designer who was born in Dublin has a romantic style of design, lace, print and hollowing, and Gosha, a designer who carries many Soviet memories, and a Serre that uses the middle East cultural symbol. Rocha seldom shows the relationship between fashion and politics in design.

Even if all designers admit that the trend of street fashion is flourishing, consumers also prefer Gosha's more humorous and rebellious expression. But in DSM, the choice of brand will not follow the mainstream blindly, and everything can be accepted and contained here.

In essence, this is a process of selecting the right from the buyer to the consumer.

Of course, DSM, which is also seeking commercial development, has also been challenged by the expansion of brand portfolio.

A netizen once wrote that when he saw that Gucci entered DSM in 2015 and launched global cooperation with him, perhaps this once fine little collection point was walking on a different road from birth.

That year, Gucci had not been reborn because of the emergence of Alessandro Michele. It is still a little old and inflexible mass first class luxury brand.

But whether or not "Denver Street" is out of the "niche" limitation, its commercial success has verified the precise vision of partners between Joffe and Wakubo Rei.

According to Glossy's data, the total sales revenue of COMME des Garcons and DSM exceeded $280 million in 2016, while DSM's sales amounted to $98 million, of which 90% came from in store pactions.

Today, when the entity retail group is in a depressed state, it still presents a significant growth trend.

So what is this vision?

"Every DSM is different, and every city is different.

But I will see the universality of human beings. They are always open minded and aspire to new things.

The same is true for retail sales.

That's the answer to Joffe.