Silk, Embroidery, Fragrant Gauze... Viewing The Textile Intangible Cultural Heritage From The Hot Play "Yan Xi"

Presumably these days,

Everyone has been cleaned up by Yu Zheng's "Jubilee".

"Jubilee strategy" has already won 1 billion 400 million playback volume.

The bean score is 6.9 points (the highest score in the past 5 years).

The plot and the picture have something to make.

It is regarded by many netizens as "the turn of the body" of Yu Zheng.

In the plot, although the woman is still talking about the process of escalating in the palace, but our social sister is not the lotus flower, the person is hard to talk more, and hide in the dark side of the face of the face, with the strength of one's own harvest of unanimous praise, see that call a refreshing!

In the screenwriter, this time he abandoned the spicy eye of Bao Bao, who used to make ancient costume dramas.

It looks a lot more advanced, and the saturation of hue has also been lowered. Like a retro filter, it has highlighted the aura of the Royal and the dynasty.

Composition from the big scene to the details, are very fastidious, symmetrical composition, golden ratio, antique furnishings, strong outdoor light, there are many scenes after screenshots comparable to the movie scene.

Yu Zheng said that the original intention of filming "Jubilee" is to make a play with a strong sense of history and great court aesthetics, so they did a lot of historical textual research, referring to Qianlong's ancient paintings, books, and so on, restoring the ancient flavor of that era.

The same scene reveals a kind of gentle and gentle beauty of "Yan Xi Mo Di Di".

Here, let's give you a popular science: what is "Mo Lan Di color"?

In fact, we are familiar with the high ash: the picture is calm and natural, gentle and graceful, with a static and harmonious beauty, and it can also be understood as the "cool sex" wind.

Not only that, the elements of non heritage have also been absorbed into a large number of scenes.

Spectators who do not know anything about traditional handcraft skills

And began to discover their charms.

Even the people's daily praised the play's intangible heritage in its introduction.

Reporters found that in the know, watercress and other websites, enthusiastic netizens have made inventory of the intangible heritage appearing in the play, so as to popularize the knowledge of intangible heritage to more viewers.

Velvet flower

For example, in the play, Lan Qin played the queen of fortune.

In some "outsider" netizens, it seems very common, dubbed "meat."

According to historical records, the queen of Fu Cha "Ping Ju Guan Tong grass flower, not jade beads."

Do not love gold and silver "

"In fact, this is the queen of fortune, who is frugal and abandoning luxury.

Photo: velvet flower in the "Jubilee" drama, Nanjing velvet master Zhao Shuxian

Tussah and velvet flower are a kind of headwear.

Velvet flower is a typical traditional handicraft with typical local characteristics in Nanjing. It was listed as a tribute to the royal family in the Tang Dynasty.

Because of its special technique, it can not be produced by machine until now, and it can only be made by hand.

In 2006, Nanjing velvet flower was listed as the intangible cultural heritage of Jiangsu province.

Photo: Nanjing velvet flower master Zhao Shuxian's works

Velvet flowers flourished during the years of Kangxi and Qian Long.

Modeling, it can be comparable to the true flowers, durable; meaning, the velvet flower homonym "Rong Hua", with auspicious blessing.

Therefore, velvet flower is not only loved by harem, but also has a large scale "Flower Market Street", which focuses on selling velvet flowers.

Therefore, the custom of decorating decorations with velvet flowers has a long history.

Picture: Tibetan velvet flower at the Imperial Palace Museum

The Queen's concubines wore the most gorgeous floral patterns, flowers blooming, and flowers on the sides of the bun.

The purple purple velvet flowers that queen Fu liked to wear has appeared many times. It is a chrysanthemum pattern, and purple is a prominent color in ancient China. It is also very commensurate with the character of the queen of the rich queen.

Silk

Like fans in the play and

All of them used the silk process.

And the Qing embroidery embroidery is the most exquisite.

Silk is one of the traditional silk weaving varieties in China. Its characteristics are interwoven with a variety of colored weft and warp threads, and the finished products look like carved patterns.

This process is complicated, so there is a saying that "one inch, one silk, one inch gold".

So the fan is usually used as a palace fan.

Photo: white silk embroidered peacock painted shank fan park the Imperial Palace Museum

Photo: yellow silk, phoenix tree, phoenix tree, and the Imperial Palace Museum.

In 2006, Suzhou's silk weaving technology was selected as the first batch of state-level intangible cultural heritage list. In 2009, she was selected as the world's intangible cultural heritage as China's Silkworm and silk weaving skills.

The picture shows: the concubine fan used by the imperial concubine in the play also imitated the real existence of the group fan. For example, the Empress Dowager grasped the fan fan, which was modeled on the Qing Dynasty tapestry, silk and cranes, and the fan used by the high imperial concubine was modeled on the Qing Dynasty red silk silk wood carving flower handle fan.

In order to better show the authentic traditional crafts, the crew visited many folk artists.

Gu Jiandong, the inheritor of silk, said that the pattern of embroidery is different from that of embroidery on the base material.

Before making a silk product, you need to pull through, buckle, turn over the head, brush the suface, stick the suface, open the warp and so on. If there is a slight mistake in the middle, the whole picture will become a defective product.

And the most precious thing about silk products is that each piece of work is unique and handy, even if it is done by the same person at different times, there will be slight differences.

Gambiered Guangdong gauze

Besides, the costumes worn by the characters are made of fragrant gauze.

The fragrant gauze is made entirely of pure natural materials. It needs to be disseminated with mulberry silk fabric coating by using the juice of Dioscorea.

The finished products are positive and negative, and the colors are like pottery and smooth handle. They can be called the best in silk.

Figure: in the drama, Wu Ya Qing Dai chose the dress made of gauze.

The production process of Xiangyun gauze is very complicated, and because of artificial dyeing, the fragrant gauze which is dried out is different.

Its clothing structure is tight, soft, durable, fast and cool, very suitable for wet and hot weather.

It is easy to clean, and no matter how it is rubbed, it will not wrinkle.

In 2008, the dyeing and finishing techniques of Xiangyun gauze were included in the national intangible cultural heritage list.

Embroidery

Again, through the heroine Wei Wei Luo's first entry into the palace, a series of stories of embroidery through the palace girl entering the palace, helping friends finish embroidery, embroidering the Phoenix robe for the queen and so on, the drama shows the embroidery's intangible cultural heritage with large space and details, including hand embroidery, seed embroidery, plate embroidery, rope embroidery, bead embroidery, circle gold, and so on.

The costumes of the characters are also restored according to the records of that era. For example, the Pearl shawl of Gao Gui Fei refers to a portrait of Ci Xi.

"In order to truly restore the folk custom and style of the Qianlong period," the playwright spent 5 months in preparing for the early stage, referring to a large amount of historical data.

In the service of Taoism, he specially recruited embroidered mother who worked as a cultural relic in the Imperial Palace.

So the costumes of the actors are all exquisite workmanship.

The Qing Dynasty was the heyday of embroidery development, and Manchu Han culture was skillfully integrated through embroidery art.

In the play, all the needlework shows the broad and profound Chinese traditional embroidery techniques. I wonder if all of you have such exquisite designs.

And feel heartbeat?

Behind the elegant way of dressing is the craftsmanship of the craftsmen who hold the awe of the Chinese traditional culture. It also reflects the beginning of the inheritance and development of the Chinese traditional handicrafts.

In recent years, the costume drama has always been beautiful, but the young people nowadays find it difficult to find those traditional cultures that are almost lost.

The spread and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage is constantly combined with modern mode of communication, and gradually renewed its vitality.