"China Trend" Is Triggering The Curiosity Of The Industry. Who Is The Biggest Upset?

At the moment, the emergence of new retail and social media seems to be the biggest spoiler in the luxury fashion industry.

The disadvantages of traditional fashion system are gradually revealed, and the interval of 6 months from T to sales has been unable to meet the needs of consumers.

In the absence of seasonal tidal currents, the fashion week, which is divided by seasons, has become rigid and fast.

In such a big environment, the Chinese electricity supplier with ambitions for fashion is regarded as the core force to promote structural changes in fashion week, and is the most inclusive of the four fashion week.

It has become the first stop for China's clothing brand to "go to sea".

At the same time, Chinese consumers are becoming more and more important. What is the "China trend" is causing curiosity in the industry.

In February this year, the first New York Fashion Week "Tmall China Japan" successfully detonated the domestic media. In September 9th, the upgraded second New York Fashion Week "Tmall China Japan" was unveiled in the form of Spring Studio in New York. This event is still jointly organized by domestic electric giant head cat, Centrino fashion and New York fashion week.

According to the American Fashion Designers Association CFDA's exclusive strategic partner of China

After introducing the four Chinese brands with different styles, such as Lining, Taiping bird, Chen Peng and Clot, to show the vitality of Chinese youth, the Tmall chose to focus more on the topic of contemporary women's strength.

By CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Opening Ceremony founder Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, Lv Xiaolei, Deputy Secretary General of Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee, Liu Xiuyun, general manager of Tmall fashion, and Centrino.

After careful screening, the Advisory Committee composed by the founder and chief executive officer chose JNBY, Particle Fever and Angel Chen, the three brands representing different Chinese women, to enter the official schedule of New York fashion week.

The new women power of Chinese consumers

In September 10th, JNBY, Particle Fever and Angel Chen, three fashion brands from China, with different styles, were pushed to the new climax of the 2019 spring summer New York fashion week in the fashion show held by New York Industria. Despite the recent rainy and rainy days in New York, second "Tmall China Japan" still attracted many people's attention and played a long line in the front row of the show.

Liu Xiuyun said in an interview with the fashion headline network that the three brands not only represent different types of women's clothing in China, but also the embodiment of three styles of contemporary Chinese women. Tmall hopes to break the traditional impression of the western world on Chinese women through the knowledge of JNBY, the vanguard movement of the Particle Fever particle fanaticism and the rebellious spirit of Angel Chen.

In the course of the Tmall China day content design and selection of brands, Tmall fully demonstrated its large data insight for Chinese female consumers.

According to Tmall data, with the improvement of female consumers' aesthetic quality and pursuit of quality,

It has become a new social language for Chinese women.

Liu Xiuyun stressed that after the Tmall based on the women's clothing users of the platform level, the qualitative analysis of the four directions of the population's physical attributes, brand merchandise preferences, purchase browsing behavior and category preferences was carried out from more than 40 latitudes, and finally 9 categories of female consumers were concluded.

Among them, the three needs of luxury, fashion and variety are especially significant.

According to Tmall data, the above three groups of people are generally highly educated and have a strong consumption power, though in the whole

The proportion of consumers is only 20%, but it has contributed more than 33% of the paction volume. Undoubtedly, it is the most powerful female consumer in China.

Positioning itself as Particle Fever, the first independent sports brand in China, is the first shot of the second quarter Tmall China day with an all-around team.

Particle Fever was founded in October 2015 by three people from Linhai, nine Jin and Wang Qin.

Unlike other sports brands, Particle Fever does not play emotional cards, insists on independent capital operation, chooses products to speak, and has a high demand for creativity. It designs one sport dress by unconventional experimental attitude and becomes one of the few sports apparel brands that own product patents. It is also the first domestic sports brand to build its own experimental vision and installation art team.

Nine kilograms of people in the show before the China Japan Forum said frankly, for brand, she not only simply pursued the success of commercial value, but also had a keen desire for "creating value" itself, not only in pursuit of technology, aesthetics and function, but also in a more progressive way of value.

Interestingly, 85% of Particle Fever's team is not from the fashion industry, so the brand also hopes to use the Tmall China day to make the whole fashion industry realize that the boundary can be broken. Fashion is not only related to designers, but also shows the positive and unrestrained attitude of contemporary Chinese women to the world.

Although there is no body size such as Lining, Anta and other domestic sports costumes, Particle Fever's ambition is not small. The series of brands released this series assumed a group of Chinese team's modeling, and made the New York Fashion Week show into a training ground in an artistic way. It not only placed treadmills, rowing machines, dumbbells, trampoline and other sports devices, but also displayed 6 fashion models in black sportswear models with different equipment and fitness as the starting point.

It is reported that the "all-around sports team" is a new experiment of Particle Fever on sports wear. The inspiration comes from all kinds of niche sports. Besides the classic sports tights and bra, the new series also includes wing design, multifunctional waist protection and sports suit for wing mounted athletes, fighters and cross-country runners.

In terms of fabric, the brand also adhered to the persistence of functionality and comfort. It used ultra light and high quality fabrics. It also launched the latest warm clothing made of 3M.

In addition to the product itself, Particle Fever is also a topic of choice for models. Not only has he chosen professional models, but also includes UFC boxing champion Li Jingliang, UFC female boxer Yan Xiaonan and non professional models such as "creating 101" program Red Star actress Wang Ju.

In the show, Wang Ju, who lifted the heavy make-up in front of the camera, still confidently displayed his imperfect figure, which fully embodied the brand characteristics of Particle Fever, which was unrestricted and daring to break through.

Because of her straightforward personality and the atypical appearance of the traditional idols, Wang Ju was criticized for her dark complexion and sturdy stature. However, the self declaration and the large number of expression packets in the program "redefining the rights of the first women's group of China" gradually spread their powder groups from partial minorities to more audiences.

On the day of Daxiu's release, Particle Fever's micro-blog account was temporarily taken over by Wang Ju to maximize its "chrysanthemum outsider" effect. The number of interactive micro-blog comments has exceeded twenty thousand.

Last month, Wang Ju also dressed in Particle Fever clothes and boarded the cover of "T MAGAZINE" Chinese edition, which attracted a lot of attention from the industry.

As the leader of deep ploughing the Chinese market for many years, the second appearance of JNBY's "UNLIMITED boundless" theme shows the core idea of the brand "Just Naturally Be Yourself" and demonstrates a natural, intellectual and artistic Chinese female image to the international market.

JNBY, founded by designer Li Lin in 1999, has gradually accumulated a loyal consumer. Now it is actively looking overseas to seek more development momentum.

Li Lin said in an interview before the show that JNBY expects to update the brand dynamics with the platform of "Tmall China Japan" in the New York fashion week, enhance the brand's international attention and further strengthen the domestic consumers' awareness of the JNBY brand.

She also stressed that JNBY plans to open up more brand stores in the North American market and accelerate the acquisition of potential overseas markets.

At present, JNBY has two stores in San Francisco and Seattle.

In the series released by JNBY, the products are mainly made of grey, white and olive green. Besides the commonly used cotton, linen and woolen materials, they also use lightweight high-tech fabrics and different texture to make JNBY products new.

In order to better highlight the theme of "UNLIMITED", JNBY also broke the shackles of age on its product creativity. Its finale model is Maye Musk, 70 years old, with white hair and black and white suits. She is full of energy and elegance, and is not inferior to other young models.

In addition to model identity, Maye Musk is also the mother of Tesla's founder Elon Musk.

The last domestic brand is Angel Chen. Although the brand is already a frequent visitor to the international fashion week, it is the first time to run a fashion show in New York fashion week. It has a distinctive style and strong personality. It represents a new generation of young consumers in China.

Chen Anqi, founder of Angel Chen, graduated from the central Saint Martin School of art and design in 2014. He was named one of the five annual design graduates by i-D. In the same year, he founded the same name brand Angel Chen and won the Ones to Watch prize of Fashion Scouts.

Since 2017, Angel Chen has launched its series in Milan fashion week.

With the invitation of Tmall to run a show in New York, Chen Anqi admits that she hopes to bring more vanguard series to China and Western culture, which has been committed to creating Chinese and Western cultures, and expects New York to give her more inspiration.

In this season's "Tmall China day" exhibition, the new product of Angel Chen is inspired by the Qing Dynasty female pirate Mrs. Qing, using more than 20 different materials combined with dragon, round rattan hat and tattooed totem and other Chinese characteristics, and a large area of fluorescent blocks to show New York's female consumers' rebellious and unruly side.

Domestic brands get together behind the New York Fashion Week

Under the leadership of Tmall, this New York fashion week is also the most fashionable fashion week involving Chinese brands in history.

According to fashion headline statistics, in the 2019 spring and summer New York fashion week's official schedule, apart from the brand selected by Tmall, there are more than 30 Chinese brands in New York. 19 of the Chinese designer brands entered the official schedule, accounting for 25%.

In addition to the above brands, the Chinese brands that landed in New York fashion week also include INXX, Lan Yu, Vivienne Hu, TAORAY WANG, Claudia Li, F/FFFFFF, Ruby, Hu, ",", ",", ",", "

It is noteworthy that despite the rapid development of China's clothing brands in the past 10 years, the "national tide" that envelops the mystery of the East is always misunderstood. Most Western consumers think that "Chinese fashion" is a design that is full of traditional Chinese elements, such as Chinese red, paper cut and cheongsam.

In order to break this barrier, in addition to the regular brand fashion show, this "Tmall China Japan" also specially set up the China Japan Forum, and together with Opening Ceremony to create a national flash shop, and cross-border cooperation with old godmother, Yunnan Baiyao, Shuang Mei, Kangshifu, conservation spring, onecup and the Summer Palace, and other brands with distinct Chinese culture genes, and launched a series of trend products, so that the "China trend" will be presented to the international consumers in a more multi-dimensional and three-dimensional way.

The Chao Chao Shan store is actually part of the Tmall tide action.

In May 10th of this year, with the opening of the "China brand day" set up by the State Council, Tmall officially upgraded the previous Tmall product plan to the action of Tmall's national tide. Through a wave of cross-border marketing, the domestic brands such as Liushen, Luzhou Laojiao and Zhou Heiya have burst their friends circle, which has led to the public's enthusiasm for the purchase of domestic products.

In an interview with fashion headlines, Liu Xiuyun said that as the world's first platform to support China's fashion, Tmall China Japan's intention was to promote the exchange and integration of Chinese and Western fashion circles, and to build an international stage for Chinese designers to better provide consumers with targeted buying suggestions and trends.

Similarly, the brand participating in "Tmall China Japan" has also opened the "buy and sell" mode on Tmall's e-commerce platform.

Tmall controls the brand in terms of design, control of goods and display of the show. This New York fashion show is not only a test of whether the brand has global vision, but also tests the supply chain and quick response ability of the brand, especially when the show becomes the "standard" of fashion week.

The three brand is the first attempt to "see buy," JNBY in order to better integrate with Tmall technology, the group first tried to break through the traditional process and mode, from design finalization to goods production, and finally to retail shelves, less than 30 days.

Like JNBY, Particle Fever's team has been preparing for this "New York debut".

Nine pounds of people said that what she valued more is the consideration of the brand supply chain capability behind the show. How to estimate the sales volume of "seeing is buying" has become the focus of her attention for several months.

To this end, Tmall and Particle Fever team have repeatedly communicated, according to their huge database to help brands analyze the products, including the design of banner, the recommendation of the main show and the collocation of colors.

In addition, the second quarter "Tmall China Japan" showroom has further upgraded its technology and experience. In order to help Chinese brands better open overseas markets, more buyers can see that the showroom of China Japan also provides more fresh experience, providing touch-screen devices, and entering 360 degree panoramic pictures, so that buyers can see as many brands as possible in limited space.

At the same time, the "Tmall China Japan" has achieved a 360 degree VR show this season, enabling users to experience the charm of Chinese brands in New York fashion week more and more through Tmall platform.

In fact, Tmall's strength behind the "China trend" has been tested early this year.

Once released, Tmall China day has gained 1 billion 500 million exposure in the international media, and the number of micro-blog's topic discussions has exceeded 20 million, triggering the "China Japan effect" across the US and China.

In the first quarter, the success of "Tmall China Japan" did not rest on the voice of the media, and the brands involved gained substantial performance returns.

According to official data, after landing in New York fashion week in February, Lining became a synonym for "national tide", occupying the list of major media fever, the stock price rose by 50% in one month, and the cumulative market value increased by HK $6 billion.

After being released online, Taiping bird has been invited to cooperate with a number of overseas buyers and fashion funds. Chen Peng's global retail channel has doubled from more than 40 to more than 80, and its retail sales in North America have increased by more than half.

The Clot led release by Edison Chan, from the street trend to the understanding of custom fashions, is reaffirmed by the trend of China and the United States.

The opportunity of "new country tide" has come?

Liu Xiuyun emphasized that both the traditional fashion week and the modern fashion week after the new retailing are designed to enhance brand image and sound quality, and sales are secondary.

Through strategic cooperation with the fashion week of New York, Tmall is drawing on the international perspective, and is also promoting the change of traditional fashion week with new retail and big data.

Liu Bo, general manager of Tmall marketing platform, told fashion headlines that Tmall has already established a mature system on the incubator designer brand, relying on the big data of the platform and the very young user groups.

Some analysts believe that the reason why fashion week is chosen is mainly due to the right to speak in international fashion.

This is also the focus of competition between Tmall and Jingdong in the four fashion week.

The Chinese brands that are pported to the international platform through the two platforms need to be recognized by authoritative opinions.

The designer brand of first-class fashion colleges has international standard. What they need is a strong pushing hand to let them get international exposure.

In February last year, Tmall launched the DT designer energy plan. It announced that it will provide energy for designers' brands in terms of flow support, supply chain building, marketing and brand building, data empowerment, and so on.

According to the data, as of June this year, super designer Lv Yan's personal fashion brands Comme Moi, exceptions, Lan Yu, Wu ya, Jicheng, To be thrill, Use, Near white and other designer brands have landed in Tmall shop, and Angel, Chen, and other domestic cutting-edge designers have also made Tmall the preferred platform for online development.

Liu Bo further revealed that at present, Tmall designers business circle grew by over 100% over the same period. In the next 5 years, Tmall will create a ten billion scale designer market. Tmall aims to hatch at least 100 high quality local designer brands with international market potential, cooperate with Centrino and labelhood, and form stable style and direction through Tmall data, so as to promote the rapid development of local designer's market to meet consumers' more personalized quality needs. The first batch of designer products will be launched on the double eleven this year.

While Tmall will further penetrate the international market in the future, it will also pay attention to the improvement of its own voice, make use of the advantages of big data to help more excellent domestic brands go out, and also introduce potential overseas brands into China.

On the forum day, Fang Tao stressed that Tmall is undoubtedly a leader in China's fashion industry. Its huge database and analysis team can help designers to link products to the needs of Chinese consumers. Centrino will have more in-depth cooperation with Tmall in 2B in the future.

It is reported that the third Tmall China days will be held in January next year.

Chinese designer brand 3.1 Philp Lim CEO Wen Zhou pointed out at the forum that Chinese consumers are undoubtedly the most important for today's fashion brands, which is both an opportunity and a challenge to the designer brand, because the market opportunities and complexity of China are directly proportional to the market. The larger the market, the more complex the consumers are. The Tmall that masters the most consumer data of the group will naturally become the best bridge linking China with the international market.

"Tmall China Japan will not only help Chinese brands stand on the global stage, but also build a platform for integrating contemporary Chinese design power to connect Chinese fashion with the United States and the global market," Liu Bo added. "Tmall needs to make Chinese design exert greater influence on the global stage."