The Conflict And Anxiety Of Fashion: The Controversy Of "Brand Insensitivity" In Shoes And Clothing Brands

Another brand has fallen into controversy over "culturalinsensitivity".

As part of Nike AIRMAX270 shoe sole Logo printing appears to be written in Allah Allah in Arabic, British netizens SaiqaNoreen petitioned change.org on January 27th, asking Nike to recall the shoes globally.

In his petition, he said, "the behavior of Nike to print the name of Allah on the sole is very frightful and terrible.

This is not only a shame for Muslims and Islam, but also a shame. "

Nike then responded in an official statement to the media: "the purpose of designing the logo is to display the Nike AIRMAX logo in a stylized way.

It's just to refer to the AIRMAX brand.

Other interpretations or symbolic meanings are not our original intention.

Nike did not say it would recall sneakers.

According to CEOMarkParker's statement last June, AirMax270 is one of the three shoe brands that have driven the brand's sales growth in the past year.

By the evening of February 3rd, the number of petitioners has exceeded 31 thousand, close to the target figure of 35 thousand.

The last time Nike experienced similar incidents was in 1997.

At that time, the brand designed a flame shaped Logo on the back of a sneaker, which is very similar to Allah in Arabic.

According to the then The Associated Press report, the US Islamic Relations Council (CouncilonAmerican-IslamicRelations) was subsequently reviewed by the CAIR.

Nike finally apologized and donated $50 thousand to build a playground in an Islamic primary school in the United States and recalled 38 thousand pairs of sneakers worldwide.

This time, CAIR was not involved in the incident.

"Obviously some people think this is a big deal.

But no matter what the facts are, some people's ideas are hard to change.

IbrahimHooper, director of communications at CAIR, said in an interview with CBS, "when we investigate such incidents, we first need to classify them into three categories: intentionally offended, unintentionally offended or controversial offences.

I'm not sure how to divide the event, but I think they are definitely not intentional. "

In recent two years, the controversy about "cultural insensitivity" has become more frequent.

In May 2017, Chanel was accused of "cultural appropriation" for selling a black boomerang with a brand name and a price of $1350. In August, some of the white models in the MarcJacobs show were dressed in colorful dirty braids, and were criticized for embezzling the dirty braid culture.

Last January, H&M released a new season of Lookbook. One of the black boys was wearing a sweater, and the word "coolestmonkeyinthejungle" was printed on the chest. It was considered racial discrimination. In February, Gucci wore white scarves as accessories when he was in the show. He was criticized for his disrespect for Sikh religion because "the scarf is a symbol of faith in Sikhs, not just accessories."

At the end of the year, Prada listed a black faced red lipstick monkey doll, who was accused of racial discrimination.

In fact, one of the most important ways of fashion evolution is to draw inspiration from different cultures.

BoF Fashion Critic LiroyChoufan once pointed out that "novelty" is the main characteristic of fashion, and it has been generated by citing products from other regions and other cultures.

Designers need to keep looking at the other people for inspiration, and the more distant it is, the more charming it is.

But at the moment, the two forces of globalization and localization are becoming more and more frequent hedging.

Bain consulted in the 2018 global luxury industry research report released in November 15th last year, pointing out that the globalization of big companies has entered a new stage. With emerging markets becoming the main driving force for growth, fashion brands will rely more on local culture and market, and deepen interaction with local consumers.

More importantly, the digitization of social media and information and consumption channels has drawn into the distance of all "it", making cultural digestion, recreation and consumption become more fast food, but it also makes people's demands for cultural understanding and respect become more immediate and strict.

It's hard for you to imagine how a designer can create the 4-6 quarter new series in a year, fully consider and assimilate the details of inspiration, make real innovation, and show it in a proper and proper way.

But consumers can find problems and express opinions at a faster pace.

"There may be more than 100 different customs and cultures in a country. How can you get to know the details of every culture?" when MiucciaPrada commented on the "black monkey doll event", MiucciaPrada expressed this confusion and anxiety directly to WWD.

In LiroyChoufan's words, "on the one hand, the world is more open than the original; on the other hand, many things can not be used without compensation.

In terms of form, business, logic or industry, fashion is a modern western way of creation based on take-and-use (ortake-and-abuse).

Now it needs to squeeze itself into the postmodern globalized state of mind, but the variables of this state are more and more closely scrutiny.

At present, there is no best solution to this problem.

Prada apologized for the two time and said he was going to take off the "black monkey".

H&M said after the boy's clothes event, it will improve the diversity of employee background so as to find problems in a more timely manner.

But in fact, no brand can guarantee that every product can be carefully examined by people of different cultural backgrounds.

Conflicts and anxieties about cultural inspiration, fashion creation and expression will continue for a long time.