The Best Choice For Cross-Border Cooperation Of Commercial Brands Is Chinese Independent Designers.

"Joint crossover" is one of the hottest keywords in the fashion industry. In the past March and April, "gorgeous" contains 21 cases of cross-border cooperation between Chinese independent designers.

In these cases, many of the partners are non commercial brands in the fashion industry. They are stylish through the designer's crossover, fashion and product / brand. Some of them are co operated by independent designers and some well-known IP.

The rich cross-border cases prove the degree of concern and maturity of Chinese independent designers.

Amid the surging tide of cross-border, some of the world's leading fashion brands have begun to join in cross-border activities with Chinese local designers, such as: Converse x FENG CHEN WANG, Adidas x Angel Chen, Puma x TYAKASHA,

We can not help but wonder:

International fashion brands have huge user base and popularity. There are quite a number of cross-border objects to choose from. Why do we have to hand in Chinese designers?

What inspiration can China's local brands get from it?

How should a commercial brand and an independent designer plan and achieve a successful cross-border cooperation?

Let's try to answer these questions by analyzing several typical cases.

Figure left: FENG CHEN WANG x Converse, figure right: TYAKASHA x Puma

What can cross border cooperation with Chinese designers bring to international brands?

When the international fashion designer delivers olive branches to Chinese designers, the goods and traffic are not the main demands. Their intentions can be summed up as follows:

Reaching local young consumers to broaden existing audiences

Strengthening the pioneer image and cultural inclusiveness of the brand

Inspiring brand creativity and design

Launching more pioneering creative products

Try a more flexible localization marketing, prying and increasing social voice.

Understand and test local market and consumer feedback.

When the world's famous fashion brands set foot in the Chinese market and are totally different from the overseas competitive environment and cultural context, overseas marketing methods have limited effect in China. The importance of brand localization marketing highlights, especially in the minds of new generation Chinese consumers.

After last year's Converse x FENG CHEN WANG's cross-border release show, Matthew Jung, vice president of Converse Asia market, sighed to "gorgeous ambition": "we urge ourselves to innovate constantly, and hope to make products that young people really love. This is the most important thing.

You must constantly change and change. "

Since its entry into the Chinese market in 2007, Converse has been actively integrating into China's local culture and enhancing interaction with young Chinese groups.

In the field of fashion, the originality and avant-garde of native designers have natural attraction and appeal. Their every move is more easily supported and resonated by the pursuit of a young and fashionable crowd.

When the brand announces cooperation with Chinese local designers, it is easy to arouse fans' curiosity and mystery: "who is this designer?"

"What kind of spark will they collide with?"

Cross boundary cooperation can stimulate creativity of both sides, and it is easier to generate various topics, triggering discussions among fashion enthusiasts, forming a "water" communication atmosphere, so that marketing can get twice the result with half the effort, and even touch the crowd outside the cross-border fans group.

Unlike other popular IP, cooperation with local designers enables brands to leverage the resources of the fashion industry, such as stars and KOL, to get more social exposure and media exposure in the form of street pads, press conferences and so on, especially for young people who love fashion and pursue their unique personality to enhance their impression of the brand.

Yang Jin, managing director of Levi s s in Greater China, said to the "gorgeous ambition" that the single product co operated by the brand and designer Wang Fengchen was seen in the major media by many overseas stars, including the famous singer Rihanna and NBA star Russell Westbrook.

Chinese consumers' desire for and confidence in exploring local culture is increasing day by day. In overseas brands, cooperation with local designers has also narrowed the distance between them and local users.

How do international brands choose cross-border partners?

The rapid growth of local designers in China is becoming an ideal target for cross border cooperation among well-known brands. Most of them have the following characteristics:

Having studied abroad or worked abroad, these experiences helped them to be familiar with brand operation to some extent and communicate better with brands.

His works have been released internationally or won international awards.

It has created and operated its own brand, and has accumulated a certain amount of personal / brand voice and fans.

The design aesthetics is striking enough, unique expression, the depth of design concept, and the understanding of local market and youth culture.

Deep understanding of cross-border demand for commercial brands and good communication and collaboration with brand teams.

It must be pointed out that the last two points are particularly important for many large commercial brands.

Jamie Cormack, co-founder of Herschel Supply, stressed: "we have set a clear goal plan before launching the joint name.

"Like-minded partners" are what we value. Whether brand or designer, we all hope that before opening up cooperation, the other side will understand our ideas and goals.

After working with Chinese designer Wang Fengchen, Yang Jin, the managing director of Greater China in Levi s s, said he would pick more Chinese local designers later.

Referring to the criteria of choosing independent Chinese designers, Yang said, "we dare to express ourselves and understand the fashion demand of local consumers.

This can not only help the rich culture of the brand, but also achieve the international dream of local designers.

"Products that can interest people and spread naturally are good products."

Tong Yun, a local designer who collaborate with PUMA and New Balance, is the focus of interaction with users. TYAKASHA, as a new brand, will take the initiative to connect with some interesting IP and get more attention and traffic, and also successfully attract PUMA and new balance.

Figure left: Pronounce x Li-Ning, figure right: SANKUANZ x Herschel Supply

How to achieve a successful crossover?

In addition to overseas brands, in recent years, Chinese local brands are increasingly choosing cross-border cooperation with Chinese designers.

During the Shanghai fashion week in 2016, China's top cashmere brand 1436 and the Chinese designer Uma Wang (Brand: UMA WANG) jointly released a series of cooperation, opening the door of joint cooperation between Chinese commercial brand and independent designer brand.

Over the past two years, when China's large commercial brands have gone abroad, and the fashion week abroad has launched fashion releases, cross-border cooperation with Chinese designers is becoming a logical choice.

In January, the Chinese sports brand Lining (Li-Ning) first chose to collaborate with independent domestic designer brands to launch a joint series with Pronounce (Zhou Jun & Li Yushan), which launched three products called "PronounceX Li-Ning", which made their first appearance in the London Fashion Week of the 2019 autumn and winter and landed in June.

Every other month, in New York fashion week, designer brand CHENPENG and Lining's brand new product line COUNTERFLOW By Li-Ning under a line "back" series of joint products.

However, due to the short history of the fashion industry and the lack of mature case reference, more local brands are still on the sidelines for cross-border cooperation with independent designers.

Before considering whether to cooperate with Chinese local designers, "gorgeous" suggests that the brand should first sort out and think clearly about the following two points:

First, clarify the specific needs of cooperation and avoid open proposition.

International brands usually have very clear goals before they cooperate with famous designers.

Jamie Cormack, co-founder of Herschel Supply, said: "sales performance is not the primary goal. Our starting point is more focused on new inspiration, inject new ideas and possibilities into brands, and then expand the audience of brands."

First, the brand must understand and sort out its strengths and needs, especially for the theme, key elements and target effects of the cooperation project.

At the same time, we should not blindly and optimistically expect to solve brand sales or positioning problems once and for all through cross-border cooperation.

In cross-border cooperation, independent designers are in a relatively passive position. If the brand itself lacks clear cooperation needs and direction, designers will have difficulty in targeting.

Finally, when measuring the completion and evaluation results of the project, the two sides will be faced with an embarrassing situation due to different expectations.

Designer Tong Yun (Brand: TYAKASHA) has refused the request for cross-border cooperation directly because the "brand culture and history are not clear, just to make money, there is no inheritance, we will not accept cooperation. If the brand is doing things we are not going to play, it has no positive effect on brand exposure, it can not be done."

Two, fully trust and respect the professionalism and superiority of designers.

In many IP type cooperation, designers' aesthetic originality and avant-garde are the biggest advantages.

When choosing a designer, the brand should focus on due diligence at these two points. Once the cooperation is decided, both sides should convey the brand's desired style and idea on the premise of understanding and respecting the originality of the designer.

Last year, Chinese independent designer Wang Fengchen made a redesign of the brand Converse classic shoe Chuck Taylor. In the process, Wang Fengchen said frankly, "they (brand) did not ask me anything, because they knew me before joining the union, and realized that the characteristics of me were in line with the brand spirit, the trait they were looking for, and we were a genuine combination."

Figure left: Angel Chen x Adidas athletics, figure right: CONSTANCE TSUI x Gap

Mature commercial brands can usually include, but are not limited to, the following forms when working with local designers.

Commissioned by a brand to design a marketing event, the product is not sold or just as a gift.

Brand and designer jointly launch the concept design or limited product.

Brand and designer jointly complete a fashion show through cross boundary.

The cross-border products of both sides are included in the brand products and enter the terminal channel for regular sales.

Leveraging cross-border marketing in overseas markets or entering high-end boutique outlets.

Brand invites designers to work together to create sub brands or sub lines.

In the past, the cooperation between fashion designers and Chinese designers was more common. Most of the finished products were packaging, gifts and so on.

Gradually, the brand is willing to invest more resources in cross-border cooperation with Chinese designers, such as: holding a fashion show for cooperation, or pushing cooperative products into terminal sales.

Last year, Converse x FENG CHEN WANG's cross border release show was chosen to be held during the Shanghai fashion week featuring the support of Chinese independent designers. Its successful cross-border cooperation with local designers has become one of the hottest topics of the fashion week.

But at that time, the "deconstruction series" shoes sold by both sides were not sold. They were only released as concepts. The two cooperation products of the two sides entered the sales channel of the brand official website and some designated shops this year.

What kind of posture should Chinese designers cross?

Cross border cooperation is a two-way choice of commercialization. For local designers who need to take account of their personal brand operation, while harvesting the olive branches handed down by famous brands, they also face the measure and choice.

How to measure the value of cross-border cooperation with brands?

With what attitude, how much energy can be invested to complete cooperation?

Is it a cross border business activity, or an opportunity to learn from an open-minded brand, or a long-term strategy to enhance the popularity of individuals or brands?

Most Chinese local designers or brand names still need to be promoted. In the face of the demand for cooperation of large commercial brands, they should be guided by their modest modesty, explain their demands and invest their energies in a targeted way, so as to achieve a win-win situation across the border.

Angel Chen (Designer: Chen Anqi) has launched extensive commercial cooperation with many commercial brands since its establishment. Its partners include international brands such as Adidas, Farfetch, Mercedes-Benz and so on. When choosing cross-border objects, designer Chen Anqi said, "money may not be the first consideration for us. We value the cooperation whether the market is expected, and whether it is consistent with our brand's tonality."

Many young consumers say that there is less cross boundary understanding between such brands and Chinese designers, but such a joint will really give them attention to individual designers or brands. For example, a senior student said, "when you see vivo and the designer's brand Angel Chen across the cell phone shell, you are attracted not only by products, but also by searching for designer brand information.

Huang Wanbing, a young designer who has recently become a prominent young player, takes the opportunity to learn more about cross border cooperation partners to give an example of cooperation with Nike. She said: "the Nike team is very professional and gives me a high degree of freedom, but it gives me a lot of advice at a key point, which has benefited a lot from me, and I have learned a lot in team execution and management."

Speaking of cooperation with Shangguan Zhe, Jamie Cormack mentioned: "I appreciate the efficient working style and rhythm of Chinese designers.

They have accurate vision and quick response, and have a clear grasp of the market.

Chinese designers and artists have strong sense of identity and support each other.

These advantages will be reflected in future works. "

Yang Jin, managing director of Greater China in Levi s s, also said that it will continue to cooperate with the appropriate local designers in the future.

As a two-way choice, cross-border can not be evaluated and measured in a rational way by YISHION. Only by relying on trust and understanding can we play a plus plus two effect.

At the same time, we look forward to more sincere cross-border cooperation to move more fashion consumers, only to satisfy the consumers, for designers and brands, is the real win-win.