The Bloated Down Jacket Has Completely Entered The Fashion World.

The down jacket became a popular single item from the demand for clothing, which originated from the possibility of consumption in the market. Whether it's the star tide or the technology Nouveau, the fashion is not only practical but also warm.

Shanghai, China -- the bloated down garment seems to have been far from the mainstream aesthetic trend of "thin and beautiful" in the fashion industry. It is a kind of category that most designers are unwilling to touch or know if they can make. In just a few years, the down jacket is not only a just need garment in autumn and winter, but also more and more people want to wear down garments. This change in consumer psychology is not related to the corresponding products on the market. They allow consumers to see the possibility of trying.

In 2015, the emergence of independent designer Chen Peng and his personal brand Chenpeng undoubtedly broke down the long and quiet down garment industry. The big cut and dramatic color of cocoon style made the fluffy properties of the down garment no longer the disadvantage of the clothing appearance. Instead, it became a powerful force of product style, even the essential element of the brand. It was sought after by international giants such as Rihanna, Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj.

Chen Peng believes that independent brand designers want to distinguish between thousands of brands and other brands, and have very prominent brand characteristics. After all, the initial brands have little advantage in price, raw materials and supply chain. "Only when it becomes a phenomenal brand, can it live to the longest." This is his demand for personal brand development.

Chen Peng will not deliberately depict the consumer portrait, hoping that consumers will express their dressing attitude through clothing. "Instead of forcing me to tell him that you must wear ladies' wind and street style," Chen Peng said that the advantage of the product can be turned into more possibilities, in other words, the customer group may be more extensive.

So now, there are seven or eight year old children and sixty or seventy year old consumers who buy Chenpeng. The down jacket is a seasonal and just demand category in the domestic market. It has no age difference. Instead, it looks like a trench coat, a suit and a coat with a sense of fashion. It is worn by young people. This has something to do with festivals at the end of the year. It needs to dress very respectfully and celebrate something.

Specifically, to the Chenpeng brand, under the outline and color, the idea is "One-Size Fashion" concept, suitable for different types of people, asexual and race differences. Chen Peng, who studied at the London Fashion Institute's menswear research specialty, attracted the attention of buyers from Europe and America by virtue of the large profile down work at the graduation exhibition. The first customer of the brand was Canadian luxury retail business Ssense.

In just three years, the brand has entered more than 100 overseas buyer stores. This is one of Chen Peng's business strategies. He called it "plug in flag". Maybe some buyer shops do not order a lot, but consumers can find this brand in every corner of the globe, gradually forming the "I understand" cognition, and establish industry awareness in the early stage of brand.

Down jacket is also a good business in European and American markets. Luxury brands such as Paris, Burberry and Prada have introduced down clothing products. Last year, the search volume on the Lyst was increased by 7%. The most notable feather product may be the down vest, from the Jeff Bezos of the technology giant, Jeff Bezos to the billionaire John Henry (John Henry), to Lachlan Murdoch, the son of the media tycoon Rupert Murdoch (Rupert Murdoch), the super rich people have chosen this single product.

Victoria Hitchcock has been working with Silicon Valley elites for 25 years to create a decent and unintentional style for professionals in the field of technology and business. Hitchcock said: "those men who are not sensitive to fashion are willing to spend $1000 or even more to buy a Moncler or Cucinelli down vest." Bloomingdale's's former fashion director thinks this is due to changes in workplace idols. "In the past they regarded Wall Street elite as an icon. Now they want to be a billionaire in the field of technology, and the latter are accustomed to being very casual."

In the American drama "Succession", the character Kendall Roy wears a Cucinelli's down vest, and her brother, Roman Roy, wears Manlav Lauren (Ralph Lauren). When they attended the cocktail party, the rich people around were wearing down vest. Fashion designer Michelle Matland told BoF: "the choice of feather vest is because this single item can associate with the 1% rich people."

There is no doubt that Moncler is the biggest winner in the fashion trend of down jacket, and net profit rose 27% last year. Data from Edited, a fashion retailing technology company, shows that the top selling category of Moncler is jackets, of which the vest has contributed 14% of sales this year, up from 11% in the previous year. Even for non luxury brands like UNIQLO, The North Face and Patagonia, feather vests are among the best sellers.

"Down jacket, as a practical garment, has been very popular in labor movement and construction sites." Hitchcock said, "now that the richest people in the United States wear down coats, this is a huge leap." Some of her clients, though not very successful, like to wear down vests, at least to make them look successful.

When the down jacket became a new generation of elite men's standard in foreign countries, Chen Peng did not see that his brand had outstanding performance in the men's clothing market in China. He thinks this is because the men's wear market is very small, and there are not many shops for men's wear. Perhaps the most important reason is that there is not a large number of male consumers who are sensitive to fashion. Chen Peng said: "after you have the consumer, with the market, other related industries will come into being."

Since 2018, Chen Peng has gradually shifted the main market to China. Before the foreign market accounted for 90% of the volume, until the 2019 autumn and winter series, the proportion of the domestic market increased to 40%. This is not because the number of domestic buyers is increasing, but because the number of domestic single stores is much larger than that of foreign countries.

According to the China Garment Association's feather Specialized Committee data, the market of Chinese down garment market in 2018 was 106 billion 820 million yuan, the first time to exceed 100 billion yuan, and the market size of the down garment market in 2022 will be increased to 162 billion 180 million. But what Chen Peng observed as a practitioner is that the down garment market is declining since the end of this year. In October, the price of goose down with a cashmere yield of 95% was 750 yuan / kg. In the colder November, raw material prices did not rise or fall. If the timeline is lengthened, the price of one kilogram of goose down in 2016 is only 450 yuan. This stems from many new brands coming into the market, including Taobao's online brands are making down garments, and the so-called "rigid demand" market is broken down.

According to the analysis by Chen Peng and team, the price range is 6500-14000 yuan for the independent designer brand or the down brand category of the small brand, "even if it does 10 years later, it will have a maximum of 50 thousand pieces." The popularity of the circle is naturally positive for the brand, but how to break the circle and become more landing is also a question Chen Peng needs to consider. "We advocate the average fashion theory. I don't want to say that we are far away from us because of the high cost. Because I have no way at the beginning, our quantity is not big, and the price of raw materials is higher, so our retail price will be higher. "

One way out of Chenpeng is to cooperate with Lining, a national sport and leisure brand, which is nearly 10 times cheaper than his personal brand. He believes that this brand joint partnership is successful, at least the sales figures are very popular with the market. Double eleven sold seven yuan on the same day for 19 million yuan, of which two were sold directly to the broken shelves. Before the launch of the product, Lining put in 4 million of the market budget for the cooperation to do the promotion. Chen Peng said the final sales commission could be counted until the end of winter. At present, it is estimated to be more than one million level. Next will also cooperate with Taobao Zhang Linchao's shop "Lin edition limit" cooperation, Chen Peng is precisely Lining and Zhang Linchao's electricity supplier operation experience.

Chen Peng did not just do business cooperation. He also attended a number of industry forums this year. He walked around the broken bridge fashion show held by Alibaba. He even took part in the fashion culture TV program "fashion master". The latter mainly focused on entry-level fashion lovers receiving TV messages. These actions are not only to expand new customers in the local market, but also to test the water for the second line.