Will "Cool" Kenzo Trend Brand Come Back In 2020?
Nowadays, countless young Streetwear Style designers will talk about Virgil and Kanye without exception when they pour out their design inspiration. But when we move forward more than a decade, we haven't found their own style yet. Who is their source of inspiration?
Referring to Hood By Air, it is already a sense of the times to read the name of the brand. In that era, if there was not a super Logo HBA in the closet, just like a OFF-WHITE in the wardrobe, no one could claim to be a fashion person.
In 2006, Shayne Oliver founded Hood By Air with a series of jerseys and T-Shirt, and quickly became the top card of Opening Ceremony and Colette boutiques in this street style. Because of Kanye West, Rihanna, Ciara, Kendrick Lamar and A$AP Rocky, the "big Bible" is the name of people's goods. This kind of aesthetics that has not yet appeared has aroused people's sympathy.
But in fact, before becoming a topic center, Oliver has been fighting and struggling with "gender mobility", and is keen to let everyone find a completely different role in his design from familiar roles, such as designing high heeled shoes for men.
At that time, because the street brand was almost designed for men, people felt that Oliver was so superfluous in design that it had no practicality. We hardly realize that this is not just a brand's novelty, but also a sport, and it is the first time that this fashion revolution can be avoided.
A fashion critic once said that when we test the boundaries of fashion, we know that they will change styles or create new styles. It can be done with a more understandable example, such as tight jeans, which were originally made for women only. If a man wears tight jeans, he will usually be stereotyped as homosexual. But now, skinny jeans have become one of the most popular choices in almost all men's and women's styles. Oliver always adheres to her own ideas. Details of the design are occupied by many series of seemingly no gender spaces and the power to attract both men and women at the same time. Because this unconventional design and the unusual fashion show design won the LVMH Special Jury Award in 2014 and the CFDA award in 2015, and in 15 and 16 years continues to be the best fashion show in the season.
But such a subversion is what he wants, but it is not like he wants to see it in a winning way. So we know that in his most prosperous years, he announced that he would temporarily close the brand. As we all know, once a brand becomes crazy and business is booming, it will lose some of its main vision. This is almost every brand's peak.
But the influence of Hood By Air has never disappeared. "In my opinion, the existence of Shayne Oliver and the creation of good culture through HBA are very important for our mixture of fashion and classic Street dress." Virgil once said, "in short, I want to talk about the vision of HBA and Shayne, showing the meaning of freedom to the whole system. From clothing to fashion show, everything gives off the smell of freedom.
As if copying the path of HBA, the brand Pyrex Vision, which was first founded by Virgil, has been influenced by Hood By Air in style. Even the last announcement of the closure of the brand is almost the same as that of Oliver. Pyrex Vision's flannel shirt seemed ubiquitous at that time and became one of the most popular street clothing brands at that time. Even though the price of a simple flannel shirt reached over $400, the first series was sold out immediately after its birth.
This ubiquitous element, Kenzo, is also hard to escape. Kenzo Takada created the brand of the same name in 1999, and we still feel his influence today. From being one of the early pioneers of the clothing series to essentially "inventing" today's very popular collaboration mode of mass market designers, Kenzo has changed the way fashion develops business. After Lim and Leon took over the brand, they pushed tiger head logo to the mass market. Once again, the "everywhere" style reproduction fashion was brought back to us.
At the beginning of last year, the Oliver, who had influenced countless street style designers, announced that it would come back with HBA. It will ensure that HBA is not only remembered for the brand of T-shirts and hoodies, but also provides a platform for young people to create and create rather than "use".
For Oliver, the current goal is to exist outside the fashion world: "I want to delete the brand from the general fashion topic and allow it to exist outside the fashion system, so that people can really see that I am not trying to prove anything or create new words for the fashion industry." Brands are well aware that under such circumstances, one way to achieve such digitalized success is by fixing an essential sign. This "virus" style of transmission will be "everywhere" become the symbol of the fast food era. But in tough times, especially in today's high street extravagance, it is not enough to make such a logo cool child. A brand's sense of balance keeps changing, and it doesn't necessarily have to discover what has never been seen before to have a place. If it continues to integrate like HBA, it should really be in the center of fashion.
Source: trend pioneer
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