Huge Supply And Demand Relations Have Sprung Up With Big Code Fashion Brokers.
At the beginning of 2020, the big 1.75 Ashley Graham with a height of 1.75 meters and 90 kilograms weighed on the cover of the American version of Vogue, which was the second fashion Bible of Dengfeng after the cover of the British version of "Vogue".
"I dragged my friend from the United States to buy this magazine and put it in the most prominent place in the room. I look forward to being able to one day like her." the native born Guangdong laugh (pseudonym) bought three copies of this magazine, one for herself, one for her parents, and one for junior high school classmates who once laughed at her for being fat.
When she was puberty, she began to grow fat. When she was 1.65 meters tall, she gained 96 kilograms. In the past more than 10 years, her life has been just like her weight loss experience. Only two choices of success and weight gain have made her the object of being bullied in school. "The school uniform is a skirt. I don't want to wear it." And there are many people who laugh and laugh because of their obesity, especially in China.
The world's adult weight survey published by the famous medical journal Lancet shows that the world's obesity population has surpassed the thin and weak population, while China's obesity population has surpassed the United States ranks first in the world. 30.1% of Chinese adults are overweight and 11.9% are obese.
When obesity becomes the leading actor, business opportunities surrounding obesity also emerge. The once bullied object has become a consumer of businessmen. "I am very happy and I am healthy," laughs like this, and thinks that obesity is a pathological condition, while a well-developed body is only a small number of people.
Take big code fashion as an example. In the past, big code clothing was always associated with obesity and bloated, and was totally unrelated to fashion beauty, and even more connected with the needs of many middle-aged and elderly consumer groups. But now big code clothes are breaking the confinement.
According to Coresight Research, the global retail think-tank, by 2020, the size of the big size clothing market in the United States will increase to $24 billion, the annual growth rate is about two times the total growth rate of the clothing market, while the value of China's big size clothing market in 2020 will be as high as 10 billion 900 million dollars.
"I often see confident and fashionable fat girls on TV movies and fashion magazines and websites in Europe and America, but it doesn't seem to be true in Asia," laughs. As early as June 2012, the Italy version of "Vogue" began to launch the big code model. The six monthly cover was promoted to the altar by fashion world. The magazine takes the theme of "real beauty" as the theme. Under the lens of the photographer Steven Meisel, three women are well-dressed, and editor in chief Franca Sozzani commented: "full women are now reappearing brilliance." As the world's most fashionable speaker in the fashion world, Sozzani has also launched a signature campaign against obesity and obesity. Her public support is undoubtedly a great booster. International brands are also beginning to use the "curve beauty" to explore opportunities in emerging markets.
In March 2017, WAL-MART (Walmart), the world's largest retailer, announced the acquisition of full-size clothing brand Mod Cloth. Urban, Outfitters, the high-end brand of Anthropologie, also launched its first large code series clothing. Ann Taylor Loft, Nike, H&M and J.Crew have made the strategy of nuggets and costumes. European and American fashion brands such as Universal Standard and Dia&Co have also emerged.
Jill Wenger, founder of New York fashion boutique Totokaelo, sold the famous boutique she founded in 2016. In second, she founded the inclusive fashion brand Roucha, which specializes in women's service in all sizes ranging from 0 yards to 20 yards. Wenger even designed her own size table to focus on the design of "different length and width" clothing. Similarly, as a large crowd, she struggled to wear beautiful clothes. Even if she opened a buyer's shop, she could not satisfy her wishes. She said, "I used to pick 2400 styles for Totokaelo every quarter, but there are still not many clothes that can fit me without any modification. In addition to the smallest possibility of finding one or two super models of Celine or Dries Von Noten, there is not much choice in the market.
This is also true of the parity market, or even worse.
"For those of us who are slightly bigger, it's really hard to buy clothes. The brand that you like to visit is usually only XL, even if there is a larger size, the length is unreasonable." A "overweight increase" will make a smile very reassuring. At first, she always buys clothes in a shop called "fat sister", which not only provides super size clothing, but also provides clothes changing service. "But it's really hard to find a clothes that you like, look good and fit," she said.
In today's China, which is thin and beautiful, the development of big code fashion industry is in a state of "hard work and no concern for the world".
The Research Report on the prediction and investment direction of China's big code women's wear industry (2019 Edition) released by the standing wood information consultant shows that China is the largest producer of women's clothing in the world, producing about 95% of the world's total. Guangzhou, where laughter is located, is attached to the prosperity of women's clothing business and foreign trade clothing industry in the Pearl River Delta region. It is also a major town for self sale and export of large yards. In addition, the development of garment trade and the development of e-commerce also made Taobao the biggest gathering point of China's big code costumes.
In 2018, there were more than 10000 Taobao stores in big size women's clothing, of which over 10 were sold annually. "In fact, when Taobao was just rising, there were big size clothes sold." From the earliest "foreign trade list", "overweight and increase", "old clothes", street shops to today's high quality shops with various categories and following the trend, they are developing towards fashion, younger age and branding.
The manufacturers of large size clothing businesses have formed a settlement relationship and have a solid foundation. Like the cool la la big code, women's wear nets, fat Ye nets and other supply sites have respectively integrated most of the large yards of women's clothing and men's shop on the market, these shops are like thirteen rows of stalls, behind which is a whole big size clothing industry chain.
Huge supply and demand relations have also emerged in the big code fashion brokers, big code model brokers, big code creation companies, and big code red hatching establishments. The Southern Metropolis Daily and the China Youth Daily have focused on the publication of the big code model, which reflects the growing prosperity of the big code fashion in China. The salary in Guangzhou big code model is 2000 yuan, and the monthly salary is 70 thousand to 100 thousand yuan. Even the average model has a monthly income of over ten thousand yuan.
Uncle Taobao, co founder of South Island wind, Taobao's big code women's clothing brand, told Xinhua that in Hangzhou and Guangzhou, from the design proofing, professional manufacturer production, professional large model display, to the big code anchor live broadcast, the big chain fashion ecological chain has been initially formed.
But the biggest difference between China's big size clothing market and Western world development is "early and backward". As early as long ago, the supply chain front-end has discovered business opportunities earlier, and the supply chain is adequate, but the correct cognition of the big code fashion is lagging behind the brand end and the consumer terminal.
In April 2019, a "body confident" fashion show was held next to the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France. It was attended by big code models and ordinary people. They shouted the slogan "My body is beautiful (my body is beautiful)". The models didn't have the perfect figure in traditional sense, but they were full of confidence. Organizers of the fashion show hope that most of the ordinary women will be beautiful by this show, though they may have small belly, fat mass and stretch marks, but these are all normal.
Smile also hopes to become self-confident, and hopes to develop her own big size women's clothing business. For 8 consecutive times, she delivered her resume and photographed herself to a large model brokerage company. She tried to send emails, but also directly micro-blog's private credit models. The height of 165 centimeters and 180 Jin is not the ideal figure that a large model agent looks for. "I know, I am not that beautiful," she smiled bitterly.
"The big code model circle also has its own scorn chain, 165 centimeters and 160 Jin is the gold stature."
It is not the refusal to refuse to laugh, but the practitioners in the industry still do not understand or even show indifference towards the diversified body, let alone how the Chinese ordinary fashion industry views them.
Her worries are also reflected in China's mature fashion brands. For example, Chinese consumers are familiar with JNBY and Mo&Co.. In their Tmall flagship store, they only have five sizes: XS, S, M, L and XL. For people beyond the number of two yards, a dress should not only look good but also wear, and the size is not appropriate, so it has to give up the money to find a way out. This is universal.
A survey of Alvanon, a newly established company providing data and intelligent analysis for the apparel industry, shows that women wearing large size clothing spend only 20% of their clothing consumption, which means that 80% of the market potential and opportunities are waiting to be excavated. 72% of the 1000 generation of girls surveyed said they were not satisfied with the large size products offered by retailers, and 61% of respondents said that clothing fit was the area they needed to improve. 34% of respondents said that the number of large size products needed to be improved and improved.
Alvanon global executive director, technology and R & D head general Jonathan Wang told BoF: "for Chinese brands and consumers, the concept of" overweight "is still a very new concept. There are few brands that provide big size clothing. Large scale Chinese market has yet to be developed and services need to be explored and upgraded.
This kind of exploration and promotion is not only to see the big crowd, but also to feel the needs of the large population. It is not just the extra code, but the "good" big code. Some people choose to create new brands and social networking providers.
In 2018, Garden Lis, a big fashion woman brand in China, got a new round of financing of tens of millions of yuan after obtaining millions of angel financing from angel Bay. Brand online, Taobao, Tmall, Jingdong, WeChat mall, Xiaohong book and other platforms have been paved all over the channel, and have also carried out international business with foreign e-commerce platforms, and even have the idea of "big red crowds".
It is also common to bring the "invisible light" large crowd to the public view. The big bloggers, who are in the trill, micro-blog, Bilibili and Xiao Hong, are springing up like mushrooms. There is often a vendor's support chain behind an account. Smiling, after being rejected, she also registered her voice account, and began to share her dress with her fans: "I never thought there were so many people like me."
Jonathan suggests that if you want to enter the big yard market or hope to develop the brand of existing products in the big yard market, ideally, you should have a technical team specially developed for large code products. Successful implementation of the development standard for large size clothing is different from that of conventional body. If the suppliers of the brand are not familiar with the large code products, they need to strengthen training to understand the original shape and the code of the big size type, so as to cope with the different needs of the big size.
In the face of the brand that has already carried out related business, his suggestion is that the brand needs to help consumers understand their body shape. In order to help them make better clothing choices, besides strives to provide better product fit, brands need to develop reasonable marketing strategies. For designers who create large crowds, they should not only focus their attention on products such as hourglass and other single body shapes. Instead, they should deepen their understanding of different large sizes and provide products with different body shapes.
But truly understanding and understanding the needs of large population is prerequisite. The future of fashion is bound to be pluralistic. Every businessman should follow the example of providing a beautiful reference for the large number of people, instead of trying to hide the excess meat for the large number of people.
Source: BOF Author: Nino Tang
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