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Open The Song Brocade, Fashion, Painting, National Charm, Oriental Beauty

2024/9/6 17:56:00 0

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　　 In the path lined with bamboos and lined with green bamboos, butterflies dance in a shadow. In the meantime, you can also hear the Kundi euphemism, clapping and singing. This poetic scene of "two birds come to occupy bamboo after rain, and one butterfly seeks flowers in deep autumn" comes from the show of China International Fashion Week of Shangjiukai · Bianhuizhong's Spring/Summer 2025 high definition series.

　　 On September 5, Shangjiukai Bian Huizhong launched the Spring/Summer 2025 Gaoding series "Zhuang Zhou Dreams of Butterflies" at SS25 China International Fashion Week. Inspired by the age-old myth of "Zhuang Zhou dreams of butterflies", this series combines Suzhou Kunju Opera House and Huaxizi's makeup, and gives the intangible cultural heritage Song brocade a new aesthetic expression with the dreamlike poem "Zhuang Zhou dreams of the past are Hu butterflies, and the vivid Hu butterflies are also Hu butterflies". Through exquisite Song brocade fabrics and modern design techniques, it reflects the designer Bian Huizhong's views on dreams and reality Traditional culture and innovation of intangible cultural heritage.

　　 National charm, oriental beauty

　　 Consistent with the artistic conception of Zhuang Zhou's Dream of Butterflies, this series of works not only runs through the elements of national style, but also provides sufficient imagination space for the wearer. "Dream Butterfly" made Chuang Tzu constantly ponder and put forward the idea of breaking the boundaries between things and me. Inspired by Chuang Tzu's idea of "integrating things and me, regardless of each other, and eliminating the difference between non self", Bian Huizhong took butterflies as the core image, combined the flexibility of natural creatures with the craft of Song brocade, and guided the audience into the fantasy world of Chuang Tzu's dream butterfly all the way.

　　 According to the designer, the butterfly is not only a butterfly "deeply seen through the flowers", but also a butterfly "constantly dancing in the lingering drama". The butterfly element he extracted from the porcelain of the Qianlong period and the fan of Emperor Huizong of the Song Dynasty was put in the consideration of graphics, fabrics and details, and its vitality was released in the form of four directions. In addition, he also reproduced the patterns of classical famous paintings such as Butterfly Play in Sunny Spring and Butterfly Play in Autumn Garden, so that colorful butterflies, dragonflies, mantis, and hard stones can overflow on the fabric of Song brocade, creating a unique national style pattern. In Bian Huizhong's view, butterflies not only symbolize romance, freedom, transformation and vitality, but also are closely related to the long-standing traditional culture and Chinese civilization. The essence of human being as a spiritual life is conveyed through the elements of butterflies, which is exactly the inspiration of his thought of "regardless of each other and eliminating the difference of selflessness".

　　 At the same time, he also extended the flower patterns of famous paintings of all dynasties, such as "Han Palace Spring Dawn Painting", "Fairy Mountain Pavilion Painting", "Streams and Mountains in the Far East Painting", "Bamboo and Birds Painting", etc. Through the unique weaving technique of Song brocade, he showed the depth and density of the ink landscape, and showed the charm of nature and different feelings and artistic conception. In terms of patterns, bamboo patterns and Dingsheng patterns are also the key patterns of this season. Designers use embroidery to describe the vibrant bamboo forest ecology, and interpret the bamboo like wisdom of Chinese women - strength, flexibility, beauty, and evergreen power.

　　 Cross border deep integration, radiating "youth"

　　 From "inaction", "nesting" and "free travel" to this "Zhuangzhou Dreams of Butterflies" series, "rejuvenating intangible cultural heritage" has always been the macro theme of Shangjiukai's exploration. In this season, the designer used processes and styles such as mother of pearl like yarn embroidery, Song brocade wool cashmere blend, Zhaocai pocket sleeves, and silhouette jackets to endow Song Jinxin with vitality and the flavor of the times.

　　 In terms of fabric innovation, this series again mixes delicate Song brocade with rugged wool to create a new fashionable and durable jacquard fabric. The combination of Song brocade with modern cashmere, wool and other yarns breaks the traditional weaving concept and shows the versatility of modern application of Song brocade. In addition, the use of velvet, mulberry satin and other materials also adds layers to the series, revealing the unique soft and smooth beauty of the fabric in depth.

　　 It is worth mentioning that this series also combines Suzhou Kunqu Opera Theater and Huaxizi's makeup to combine the national style elements of Kunqu Opera with fashion culture to interpret the dialogue between history and modernity. The designer takes the waistcoat of Kun Opera as the basic outline, combines the auspicious implication of Ruyi pattern with the exquisite craftsmanship of Chinese knot, and uses western tailoring to present the oriental outline, creating a look that benefits both China and the West. As the key embroidery process of this season, mother of pearl like yarn embroidery is integrated in overlapping to create a colorful oriental style.

　　 On the show, Shangjiukai and Huaxizi jointly created a new national style makeup, which redefined the beauty of the East with long and thin eyebrows, bright colors at the moment, and beaded lips, showing the grand and exquisite charm of the national style. It is a new interpretation of the traditional makeup of classical style into modern beauty. Since its establishment, Huaxizi has taken the vision of "promoting the beauty of the East and building a century old national makeup", which coincides with the brand concept of Shangjiukai. This time, the two sides will work together to take root in the tradition, continue to innovate, and combine the Song brocade with oriental makeup, so that the world can fully feel the beauty of China's intangible heritage.

　　 Beautiful crown, presenting the charm of intangible cultural heritage

　　 Shangjiukai Song Brocade went to the world from Suzhou, the ancient textile capital, and showed the world the gorgeous charm from China. In recent years, on the one hand, Shangjiukai has upgraded the fabric technology, on the other hand, it has constantly innovated the design, led the inheritors of the intangible cultural heritage of Song brocade and the domestic and foreign high-technology teams to set up a number of technology research and development centers abroad, combined traditional skills with cutting-edge design, explored the modern fashion value and technological potential of Song brocade, and made Song brocade present the unique "new national trend" of the East And "New Chinese Style".

　　 At the APEC Summit in November 2014, Shangjiukai Song Brocade became the main fabric for leaders of all countries to wear group photo clothing. The splendid appearance on APEC provided acceleration for the development of Shangjiukai. As one of the designated manufacturers of souvenirs for the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympic Games, Shangjiukai integrates the Song brocade culture that has been passed down for thousands of years into its products, giving a unique flavor to the cultural and creative series. So far, more than 100 products have been presented to foreign leaders and wives as diplomatic gifts in large-scale events such as the Astana World Expo, the BRICS Summit, the Boao Forum, the SCO Summit, and the Jiangsu Development Conference. While Song brocade has repeatedly become a national gift and a magnificent name card of Chinese culture, Wu Jianhua, chairman of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology and Culture Co., Ltd., has made unremitting efforts to promote Song brocade to the world. In his eyes, the core of the inheritance and development of traditional skills is innovation. Only by quietly integrating Song brocade into the production and life of the masses can it be recognized by consumers and truly achieve the ultimate goal of intangible cultural heritage protection - live inheritance.

　　 This release is not only a visual feast, but also a profound expression of cultural self-confidence and the spirit of the times; In the global fashion context, it shows the broad and profound Chinese culture and the unique charm of intangible cultural heritage Song brocade. Looking forward to the future, Shangjiukai will stick to its original intention at the beginning of its founding and express the traditional culture in a "young" manner while continuing the Song brocade culture gene.