In Winter, We Encounter Value Innovators.
This summer, when the "clothing industry" ran to Guangdong, Shandong, Jiangsu and other places in order to comb the 30 years of industrial development, it felt a chill constantly hit. Closing down and losing money seemed to be the theme word of the industry. However, we also found that many brands were still dancing in this "winter" according to their own rhythm.
2008, what did they bring to China's clothing industry?
The division of industry has begun.
"Now our list can't be done."
In September 8th, Gao Dekang, chief executive of Bosideng, told the clothing industry.
And reporters found on the second day, on the website of the Anhui clothing trade association, issued a letter on Bosideng seeking cooperation with garment processing enterprises in Anhui province.
The letter said: Bosideng needs to seek cooperation in scale garment processing in Anhui Province, and emphatically points out: Bosideng's orders usually have more than 50 thousand orders, and the work fee is 3 to 5 yuan / piece more than the brand processing fee of domestic down garment.
"Many of Vietnam's lists have been pferred to us."
Gao Dekang said.
Obviously, the recent inflation in Vietnam will not only delay the pfer of Chinese enterprises, but also bring back many orders and concentrate on brand enterprises.
Indeed, Bosideng is envious of many domestic enterprises, especially those who are facing "life and death".
"Enterprises are scarce, factories are empty."
A clothing boss in Humen said.
The closure of the garment factory has been carried to the upper reaches. "From last year, the business has gradually faded away, and the rich people have also lost a lot of furniture."
Hung Yun Mei, 16 06A of Fumin cloth city, said.
In the lower reaches of Humen, Daying garment city and the Yellow River clothing city staged a "closing show" to resist the high rent of their shops.
"At present, the factors that affect exports, I think, is mainly" three rates and two fees ".
Yang Wensun, chairman of Meyer, who has been engaged in export, said that the so-called "three rate", that is, exchange rate, interest rate and export tax rebate rate, and "two charges" refers to labor cost and production factor cost. He thinks that the growth of these two expenses is squeezing profit space.
What should I do?
Enterprises are also trying to find a way, but the result is not ideal.
"We don't want to upgrade, just like climbing stairs, I can't walk from top to bottom."
Dongguan Liaobu town shoe factory owner said.
Transfer is also a way out. In May 24th, Guangdong promulgated the decision on promoting industrial pfer and labor pfer, and put forward specific measures for promoting pfer.
However, many enterprises do not agree with the immediate pfer to the mainland. "There are no relevant supporting facilities in the region. Even if the policy is favorable, the final production cost is probably higher than this."
Guangzhou Qin Yi clothing chairman Gao Shan said.
In the face of foreign pfer, it seems that it is not the right time now. "Vietnam's wage growth is relatively fast, and wages in 2006 are still between 50 and 60 dollars. Now it reaches more than 100 dollars, and strikes in two days are clamping for wages."
Yang Weidong, general manager of Qingdao development group, said.
It was in 2006 that Vietnam set up factories in Vietnam. But now, "including sample production, plate making, fabric accessories and so on, most of them need to be shipped from the mainland."
Yang Weidong said.
Under such circumstances, "the tide of closure will last until at least 2010, and SMEs in Dongguan will eliminate 2/3."
Wang Shenglin, owner of a wool weaving enterprise in Dongguan, speculated.
Bankruptcy and loss seem to have become the industry's theme word overnight. "Most enterprises are on the margins of profit or loss," Cao Xinyu, vice president of the China Textiles Import and Export Chamber of Commerce, said. "This trend is showing a gradual expansion."
Facts are also verifying Cao Xinyu's statement that textile and garment listed companies have become the hardest hit areas.
According to the recently released interim results revision report of listed companies, the main garment, fabric, printing and dyeing stocks and shares are expected to increase by less than 50% compared with the same period last year. ST Maya will increase its profit in the first half from 40 million yuan to 55 million yuan.
However, not all listed companies are in decline.
According to Guoxin Securities Research Report, the profit margins of the US, the seven wolves and the news birds continued to grow at a high speed, of which the net profit of the United States and China reported an increase of 472% over the same period last year, and the net profit of the seven wolves reported in the same period was 190%.
What is even more remarkable is that these brands are mainly domestic markets.
In fact, according to the statistics of the National Bureau of statistics, the volume of retail sales of clothing in major shopping malls increased by 12.55% from 1 to May in 2008, and the retail sales increased by 20.9% over the same period last year.
This provides market power for domestic brands.
"There is still much room for domestic clothing market."
Hu Changshui, deputy general manager of Dongguan pine hawk, said, "after many small businesses fail, orders will be pferred to brand businesses."
In fact, this has been verified in Bosideng.
At present, "20% of large and medium-sized enterprises, with advanced technology and brand advantages, firmly occupy 80% of the market share."
Zhao Meiling, an analyst at textile and garment industry of Anxin securities, said that the situation of textile and garment enterprises with low technology level and serious dependence on exports is becoming more and more difficult.
"The pattern of polarization will emerge in China's garment industry," some experts said, which provided the possibility for the birth of "superstar".
2008, raise the brand's cover.
However, these domestic demand brand energy is not built in a day, but relies on the insistence of idea innovation and fixed force. For example, Song Ying successfully pformed in 2000 and became an early self owned brand enterprise.
Before, they just made OEM for other enterprises.
In the face of this round of macroeconomic regulation and control, "real brand competition has begun."
Zhou Chengjian, President of the United States, said to the clothing industry.
Wu Zhize also agrees with this view. He thinks that 80s is a mixed battle of miscellaneous brands, and 90s is the war of annihilation between famous brands and miscellaneous cards, and twenty-first Century is the contest between famous brands and famous brands.
Therefore, the path that Zhou Chengjian chooses is to do the domestic market first. "Now many of the global distributors are looking for me to act as a foreign agent in the United States.
But I'm not in a hurry. "
Zhou Chengjian said, not just products going abroad, but also brands going abroad, which requires rhetorical questions: are our international managers and institutions in place?
Do we really understand the global legal environment?
Do we really understand the global human environment?
Therefore, he will not rush out of the country in five years.
And to the domestic market, "we must learn to discover the temperament of black eyes and black hair, and inject this temperament into the design before we can develop."
Zhou Chengjian said.
To this end, the United States has set up a museum of clothing, is currently building a branch in Xidan, Beijing, the other three are in Wuhan, Chongqing and Shanghai Nanjing East Road.
And a new brand, Mei & Cai, was born in the hands of Zhou Chengjian, who was positioned at the age of 18-35 to distinguish it from the United States.
Next, he will introduce children's clothing next spring and keep warm underwear.
This action also took place in the seven wolves.
In March 31st, the "SEPTWOLVES" brand, which was co operated by the seven wolves and the famous French fashion designer DANIEL FARET, was officially released.
"This is a major strategic deployment in the history of the seven wolves."
Zhou Shaoxiong, the boss of seven wolves, said that the target consumers of the brand are positioned among the social elites aged 25 and -45 to meet their individual needs.
Similarly, "multi brand and internationalization are our strategies, which will not change."
Zheng Xueming, chairman of Shanshan stock, said that 10 international brands are paying well.
In January 2008, after the acquisition of new Ma and SMART by YOUNGOR group, "our market is expanding rapidly. Taking shirts as an example, the annual order volume is 40 million, and our production capacity is only 14 million."
Li Ru, chairman of YOUNGOR, said that through the new Malaysia company, a large amount of international latest information can also be obtained.
"Next step is to channel our YOUNGOR brand into the international market through this channel," Li said. Recently, the two vice president of Goldman Sachs came to him and offered him many brands that could be bought.
Obviously, in this season of differentiation, brand with resources will start a new journey.
Since February this year, Ogilvy & amp; Co. has begun to provide professional services for nine years, which is the most important brand strategy upgrading after 19 years of the creation of Lin Congying.
Many enterprises have started the brand pformation (see the current Jiangsu pformation sample). "Facing the challenge, M·SUYA mainly improves its core competitiveness through three aspects: management, terminal and talent."
M·SUYA boss Chen Yongbin said that at present, the product concept of "Ladies' wear solution experts" has just been implemented for a few months, and the price of single products has increased by 20%.
This year, he also increased investment in design. He hired design consultants from Italy, France and Hongkong, and hired technologists from Taiwan and other places. He was also working with South Korea.
"All the world's resources need to be used," said Xia Yuping, chairman of YSL, as the overall design consultant, and Jean Paul Knott, director of research and development of senior garments of Saint Laurent, will give specific guidance to the theme and style of each season.
Jean Paul Knott tells song: how to shape, grasp and adhere to the style, "now, the style of singer is clearer and more concentrated. Although the clothing changes every season, the style continues.
While YISHION directly set the studio in London, designers live with the local people, even in the evenings, and they are not allowed to rest at home, but to integrate into the local life.
Make clothes with the concept of making artworks.
In fact, what YISHION attaches importance to is not only design but also quality.
In the past few years, YISHION has set up a product quality inspection center for nearly 20 million yuan. It has a solar fastness tester, a biomicroscope, a constant temperature water bath boiler and other equipment, all of which have reached the international or domestic advanced level.
Among the test indicators, 16 items were higher than the international top quality standard level 0.5 or above, which accorded with the international top quality standard, 3 were in line with the United States or British standards, and the rest were in line with national standards.
With good equipment, strict testing is also needed.
On one occasion, the product was already on the way to the market, but because some of the indicators were not ideal after the test report came out, they recalled all the products, "we are responsible to consumers."
YISHION chairman Guo Donglin said.
In the immediate future, quality comes from technological innovation.
In September, the clothing industry soon learned that as the sole specialized clothing partner of the 06 and 07 Qingdao international sailing competition, its "marine biological chitin fiber knitwear" was awarded the two prize and invention patent of the national science and technology progress.
According to the introduction, chitin is a substance called chitosan extracted from the crab shell of the deep sea of Alaska. It can be used to beautifying skin and anti-aging, and has the function of bacteriostasis and deodorization. It can protect human body from radiation and heavy metal ions against skin.
Their self-developed microporous polytetrafluoroethylene membranes and wind resistant and moisture permeable functional fabrics have also reached the international advanced level and applied to high-end clothing and outdoor sporting goods, clothing for special industries, etc.
"Next step is to enter the field of professional wear and establish the Institute of professional clothing."
Zheng Xueming said that the next step is to develop the standard of professional wear.
The China Institute of occupational wear, which has been established by Yihe, focuses on the development of spacesuit, navigation and other protective clothing.
Yihe has a variety of special protective clothing production capacity, including antistatic and resistance.
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