Study On Processing Technology Of Horse Hide Garment Leather
China has rich resources of horse hide and is one of the ideal raw materials for leather making.
The garment leather made from horse skin is good in softness, fullness and elasticity, and its grain is smooth and meticulous. Its unique natural grain pattern makes it more attractive.
However, there are still many problems in horse hide leather making. Its location is relatively large, and the "soft" position of horse stock parts is a prominent difficulty.
After shaving, there will be a "twist" phenomenon in the wet process of the blue skin due to the narrow and long skin.
In this paper, combined with the characteristics of horse hide, the production technology of horse hide garment leather was systematically studied, and the corresponding process plan was put forward.
Study on 1 Liming Process
In order to make the collagen fibers moderately dispersed and achieve the ideal soot cleaning effect, taking into account the cost of production, we have selected the domestic Liming Agent F (Wangjiang chemical plant) and the Liming King synergist T (Ting Jiang chemical plant) in the liming process and compared it with the conventional method.
The results showed that these two kinds of Liming agents had good soot leaching effect, and the best dosage was about 1.2% of the original tare.
If the dosage is too low, it can not achieve the ideal effect of soot.
In the process of liming, we also added proper amount of sodium hydrogen sulphide to ease the expansion and avoid the phenomenon of "loose surface" due to overexpansion or overspeed.
When soot is used, the hair follicle is first opened with sodium hydrogen sulphide, and then treated with strong sodium sulfide to remove the wool.
In this way, the combination of sodium sulphide and sodium sulfide can be used for the liming of horse hide, and with 1.2% Liming Agent, it achieves the ideal purpose of Liming.
The liming process is: liquid ratio 2.5-3.0, room temperature, sulphide base 1.5%, sodium hydrogen sulfide 1.2%, Liming Agent 1.2%, lime powder 10%.
First add sodium sulphide and liming auxiliaries, rotate 20 minutes, then add sulphide alkali and lime powder, continuously rotate for 2 hours, stop for 1 hours, then turn 1 hours, stop for 1 hours, turn to half an hour, stop for 1 hours, then turn to 10 minutes per hour, stop drums for the night.
The wet wet skin produced by the process is good in grain fineness, clear grain, full handle, good elasticity and no loose surface.
Special treatment of 2 horse stock parts
The horse's stock is strong and its knitting is more firm. We have used the enzyme, bag dust, blue peel horse cutting stock, local oil coating and local shovel soft combination of horse branches.
2.1 pack ash method
If ash is not treated in the ash stage, the location difference will exist in the bare skin stage.
When softening, the penetration rate of enzyme to various parts is different, and the time and intensity of action are different, thus increasing the location difference.
By comparison, we found that the following package solutions are ideal: Na2S30g/1, NaHS10g/1, NaCI130g/1, glucose 10g/1, and lime powder.
The ash coating time is usually about 24 hours, and the winter time is a little longer.
2.2 blue peeling method
The fibers of sturdy horse are strong and compact, and the slow penetration of chemicals into the part and weak force are the main reasons for the increase of location difference.
Although partial inclusion has been specially treated for this part, it is not enough to eliminate its location difference.
In order to facilitate the penetration and action of chemical materials in wet processing after tanning, we cut the part more after cutting, that is, the part is thinner.
It was found that although the part was thinner than other parts after shaving, the thickness of finished leather was not large.
The thickness difference of blue skin after cutting is 0.1mm.
2.3 oiling method
Compared with other parts, the fibers of horse's stock are tightly knitted, and the amount of oil that is bound to be added at the time of refueling is also less. If the billet is blown out of the drum and no longer oiled, it will be difficult to eliminate its parts.
For this reason, we added one part of the oil to the part of the horse's leather and then placed it on the side of the leather.
2.4 local soft shovel parts
When the drum is thrown soft, the possibility of folding of the soft part is bigger, the mechanical kneading effect is bigger, and the possibility of the folding of the hard part is small, and the mechanical rubbing effect of the part is also small.
If a soft shovel is not soft to the hard part of the horse's share, it will make it soft and hard.
Therefore, before the drum is thrown down, the horse should be shovelled softly, so as to reduce its position difference.
After the above physical and chemical special treatment of horse's fruit, the location of finished leather is greatly reduced.
3 handling of the problem of "stranding"
Horse hide is characterized by narrow and long.
If the traditional process is adopted, they will appear "twist" in wet processing after tanning, resulting in defects such as rip, wrinkle, dyed flowers and even narrower and longer.
After testing, we found that adding wet weight of 0.3% SY to blue wet skin can solve this problem.
The dosage is small, the effect of prevention is not obvious, too much consumption will increase the cost, and will also cause certain effects on dyeing and fatliquoring.
4 selection of Retanning materials
PR-1 and KRI polymetallic retanning agents (Ting Jiang chemical plant) were found by comparing the application results of a large number of domestic retanning materials.
ART series retanning agents (Neijiang chemical plant), DM retanning agent (Wangjiang chemical plant) and KS-1 retanning agent (Kaifeng resin factory) are ideal retanning agents for horse hide garment leather.
The finished leather retanned with these retanning agents is full and foaming, and the location difference is smaller. The grain surface is more smooth and meticulous, and the grain grain is also clearer.
5 selection of fatliquoring materials
After comparing the application performance of the products of several leather production plants in China, it is found that the comprehensive series, fatty acid series, L-2 and L-3 fatliquoring agents, CNS fatliquoring agent of Wangjiang chemical plant, SCF, NHS fatliquoring agent of Neijiang chemical plant and SE fatliquoring agent of Shanghai leather factory are all ideal kinds of fatliquoring agent for garment leather.
When fatliquoring, a variety of fatliquoring combinations are used, and the fatliquoring method is used to fatten the finished leather, which makes the finished leather soft and oily, but not greasy.
At the later stage of fatliquoring, the addition of cationic fatliquoring agent with a total oil content of about 10% is more conducive to improving the handle and dye fixation of finished leather, and the mercerization of suede is better.
6 research on finishing section
The finishing process is: hanging, drying, drying - resurgence - shovel horse parts - drum tumble soft - artificial stretching and horse static - bottom coat - middle coating - top coat and bright fixed - drying - finished products.
Hanging drying is the most common and most common drying method.
The drying method can improve the resilience and fullness of finished leather.
The study found that hanging air drying should be carried out slowly and the time should not be too short.
Otherwise, the leather will be coarsely rough and the leather will shrink greatly. The leather yield will be small and the handle will be affected.
The soft shovel of the horse's stock can be guaranteed before it falls soft, so that the horse's stock can also be properly rubbed in order to reduce its location.
After soften, it can be stretched and stretched by the horse before it is completely cooled. It can make the finished leather surface more smooth and meticulous, and the elasticity and fullness of the finished leather can also be improved.
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