Three Quarter Footwear Design -- Typical Three Quarter Shoe Design

Men's three quarter shoes are named after their structures, which are divided into three sections, namely, the former Baotou, the former Chinese gang and the latter gang.

The three quarter shoe is also an inner ear shoe. It can also be regarded as a variant of the two quarter shoes. After more than 100 years of inheritance, it is still loved by the majority of middle-aged men.

The reason is that the three head shoes are of reasonable structure, proportionate coordination and steady shape, plus exquisite techniques, which highlight male masculine beauty and are often used for social occasions, gatherings and other public occasions.

Men's three quarter shoes, also known as Oxford shoes, are one of the most popular shoes in Oxford, England. Nowadays, only three pairs of shoes become the best among them.

With the changing demand of the society, there are many variant products in the three quarter shoes, forming a series of three knot products.

See color B series, which is a set of inner ear type three head shoes.

The common feature of the inner ear type three piece shoes is the inner ear shoes with the former Baotou. The former Baotou can be curved Baotou or swallow tailed Baotou.

Although these shoes are collectively referred to as three quarter shoes, but because of different structural changes, the processing technology is different, the color and texture of shoe materials are different, or the auxiliary parts are different, and so on, there are rich and varied changes.

The color picture B-l is the two comparison shoe. The two very similar shoes belong to different structures.

Dark shoes belong to the inner ear type three section shoes. The light colored shoes belong to the front opening type three section shoes, and are closed at the front end of the openings.

The main differences are the following: one is 6 eyes, one is 5 eyes, one shoe is kept open, one shoe is broken, one shoe is broken, one is the front and middle sides are pressed behind, one is the middle pressure side, the other is the middle side, one is without the back pack, the other is with the back pack, one shoe adopts the folding process, one shoe adopts the mouth opening process, one shoe has perforation decoration, and one has no punching decoration.

The first impression was that the two shoes were very similar, but the greater the difference, the greater the difference.

The thinking of this design is "isomerism". The appearance of the parts is very similar, but the structure is quite different. This is a common method when designing series products.

Color picture B-2 this three quarter shoe is very simple, concise to the front of Baotou and shoe only a line of the car, concise to the center without the open line, concise to save the decorative line.

The color picture B-3 is closer to the typical three quarter shoe. The change is to add a back pack. In addition, the connecting line is used, which saves an offline.

6 eye positions are arranged on the ears of shoes, which are commonly seen in Western Europe in recent years.

The color picture B-4 is a three headed shoe decorated with flower holes. This process is called "flower" or "engraving". There are decorative holes in the front Baotou, the front middle, the back and the back bags, which consist of two large ones.

The pattern of flower holes was also used in the former Baotou.

The color picture B-5 is a three quarter shoe with a long middle band, with a rear stiffener part at the back end.

The former Baotou, the former Chinese gang and the shoe mouth are all made by the technology of turning over the seam. After the seam is turned back, the car has a broad side line, which is exquisite and original.

Color picture B6 this shoe is "fake" three quarter shoe, actually its former Baotou did not disconnect, just use the false line and flower hole to separate the position of the former Baotou, it looks like a three head shoe.

The color picture B-7 and the color picture B8 are two different angles of view of the same shoe.

Besides the use of flower holes and flower teeth, the shoe is also decorated with auxiliary parts and rubber bands instead of false threads, which saves the trouble of shoelace when wearing shoes.

The color picture B-9 is a typical flower with three head shoes. The upper is divided into 5 parts: swallow tail Baotou, front middle band, shoe ears, back pack and back pack.

Pay attention to the relationship between the rear package and the inlay, which is that the back pack is directly pressed into the front middle side to make the structure compact.

The three parts of the front, middle and rear parts of the color echo each other; on the material, the ostrich skin is chosen to enhance the grade of the shoes.

The distinction between true and false ostrich skin depends on whether there is a pore on the pea grain. There is a clear feather hole on this bean pattern.

The color picture B-10 is also a flower with three head shoes. The whole shoe is characterized by the flower hole pattern, and the location of the fake line is also represented by flower holes.

The swallowtail of Baotou has two wings, long and long, extending to the heel position.

In the waist area, the former Baotou, the former Gang, and the back pack meet with the three components, but they do not appear to be repetitive and cumbersome.

The color picture B-ll is also the two pair of control shoes. It looks distinctly different. But after careful observation, it will be found that the structure of the two shoes is exactly the same, and the components are basically the same, but only slightly different in the length of the rear package.

The initial impression contrast is large because the color is different, one shoe is stronger than the other, and the other emphasizes coordination.

The thinking of this design belongs to "isomorphism", and we should design them in the same structure.

Difference.

The color picture B-12 is also a three head shoe, but the tail length of the swallow tail Baotou is shorter, similar to the length of the arc Baotou. But the shape of the swallow tail Baotou is complementary.

In fact, as a part of modeling, as long as it does not violate the rule of foot shape, as long as the shape has aesthetic taste, it has great room for change.

Design of typical three quarter shoes

Although there are many varieties of men's three quarter shoes, most of them are changes in appearance parts. The essence of their structure is concentrated on the design of typical three quarter shoes.

(1) finished product graph analysis

As shown in Figure 1 - 3-1, this is a typical man's three quarter shoe, and the upper is divided into three parts, namely, the former Baotou, the former middle gang and the rear gang. The former Baotou and the former Chinese Gang get on the bus three lines, one by one, and the shoe line is connected.

All kinds of colorful shoes on the colourful picture are evolved from the typical men's three quarter shoes.

1. structure

The three section shoes belong to the inner ear structure, and when they take off, they also use positioning and picking.

The three parts of the instep are very classical. The front arm takes up 3/5 of the total length of the front face of the shoe, which is similar to the golden section ratio. The former Baotou occupies the 1/3 of the front Gang length, which is also similar to the golden section ratio.

The repeated application of this golden section ratio makes the structure of the three section shoes outstanding.

If you compare the three quarter shoes with the two quarter shoes, the front part of the two quarter head is divided into the two parts of the former Baotou and the former middle gang.

But this division is not a simple cut off, but a technological stilt, which makes the effect of the three quarter upper upper two better than the two toe shoe.

As shown in the figure, there is a gap between the front line JV of the front part of the two head shoe and the back midline of the last shoe.

The V1J of the front three Baotou's back midline is taken from the concave position of the last back, which makes the back midline of the former Baotou and the front middle of the shoe closer to the last curve.

2. last type

Men's three quarter shoes have their own three quarter shoe last.

Compared with vegetarian head last, the length of the last bottom of the three head shoe last has been increased with the allowance of 5mm, and the lOmm of the three longest shoe last is more reasonable.

From the perspective of modeling, if the front part of the two head shoes is also segmented out of the former Baotou, it will feel shorter and uncomfortable for the front team, because the horizontal lines of the former Baotou will produce a "compressed" feeling and make the front team feel shorter.

In order to compensate for the visual errors, we need to increase the allowance.

Then analyze the three middle section of the two quarter head, if there is no blade shape, the line will feel very wide, with the shape of the knuckle split, the feeling will narrow, and the actual width has not changed.

The reason is the same. It is caused by visual errors.

If the structure of the former Baotou's line of separation is in front of the second bending parts of the foot, it will not interfere with the activities of the feet.

If we simply move the front Baotou on the two heads, it will make the bending of the foot uncomfortable, and it will wrinkle on the front Baotou for a long time.

If wrinkles appear on the former Baotou, it is a failure design.

When using the super long three knot last, it is necessary to place the extra length in the position of the front Baotou, which can highlight the slender shoes and do not affect the bending of the feet.

The relevant three segment head and last body dimensions are shown in table 1-3-1.

3. components

The main components include the former Baotou, the front middle and the back parts, and the auxiliary parts have the tongue and the insurance cover, altogether five kinds six.

In the design of the parts, the design of the back, tongue and safety skin is exactly the same as the design method of the two section shoes. The main difference is in the design of the front part.

4. inlay

Before the Baotou press, the middle and the front sides press the back and the back shoe ears press the tongue, and the insurance skin presses on the back seam.

The design used to be Baotou's hands.

5. special requirements

The method of sticking the last three pieces and making half panels is the same method.

We must use three head last to design three quarter sample shoes.

On the proportional relationship, the total length of the front face of the three head shoes is taken at the E point, and the mouth door position is taken at V point, and the length of the front Baotou occupies the 2/3 of the front length.

On the mouth of the door, the control point Fo of the width of the door should also be taken to ensure that the template can be allocated and saved.

When the line is in line, the front Baotou and the front middle China buses are connected by three lines, one by one, the false line is connected to each other, the shoe line is connected to each other, and the insurance leather car is single line.

Of all footwear, the three headed shoe upper is the most open line, often used as a technical competition or upgrading examination.

1. the design of the former Baotou

The design of the former Baotou is shown in figure 1-3-3

Use the half panel of the three head last to draw out the contour line of the periphery, connect the basic control line, and make the natural angle.

The length of the AV curve of the half panel is taken as its 2 / 3 fixed V. point as the length of the front Baotou.

Connect V1 point and point into a straight line, and start from A point and connect it to the line with circular arc, and hand it to A.

Point.

A.

The Vl line is the back midline of the former Baotou.

The vertical line of AoV1 line is auxiliary line through Vl point.

The rear arc of the former Baotou will be taken at Vl point to control the depth of the rear arc at the bottom entrance from 8 to lOmm.

The depth of the Baotou arc is adjustable. The early shape of the last arc is a large round head, and the arc depth is taken at 5mm. Now the last one is thinner, and the arc of the round head is 8 to lOmm deep.

Pay attention to the arc inside and outside the Huai to make a large arc shape, do not appear sharp corners and concave angle.

Note that the length of the front Baotou should not be found on the AoV'line, and the V' point should be directly determined on the AV curve.

2. the design of the former Gang

The design of the former Gang is shown in figure 1-3-4.

Connect the Vl V'line to the front midline.

The vertical line through the V'point is the auxiliary line.

The drawing process behind is exactly the same as that of the two head shoes.

(1) to find out the width control point of the mouth door Fo extend the back midline of the middle Gang, extend the long line perpendicular to the midpoint F2 of the two wings, hand it to F3 point, add the 35mm at the bottom, set the F4 point, take the upper 1 / 3 F0 point of F3F4 length, and descend to OO line to get Fo point.

(2) connecting gate width control line 0 points to increase 3mm set 07 points, connect O, Fo line and extend the width control line.

The vertical line of the OO line is controlled through the Fi point to control the length of the two wings of the middle section.

(3) design the mouth contour of the door in the range of V'to O' to Fo to F1.

At the same time, the vertical line of the VE line is passed through the V point to control the position of the arc at the intersection point of the two vertical lines.

The design of the 3. Gang

Design the back contour line in the range of V to E to P''to Q.

Pay attention to the arc of the shoe ears and the radian of the shoes, which should be in harmony with the arc of the shoe door, so as to make the design style unified, as shown in figure 1-3-5.

The design method of the tongue and the safety skin is the same as the two section shoes.

The bottom handle and the difference between the inside and outside are the same as the two section shoes.