Problems Encountered In The Implementation Of "Pajamas" Standard

　　 Abstract: This paper analyzes the problems encountered in the implementation of FZ/T81001 - 2007 "pajamas sets" standard. This paper mainly introduces the confusion caused by the four indicators, such as seam slippage, tear strength, dimensional change rate and appearance after washing, and puts forward some suggestions for the problems.

Key words: FZ/T81007 - 2007; stitch crack; size change rate; light weight fabric; modification proposal

FZ/T81001 - 2007 Pajamas Set "Standard" (hereinafter referred to as this standard) has been implemented since November 1, 2007, and it has been nearly two and a half years now. Most pajamas manufacturing enterprises regard the standard as the implementation standard of the product, but in the process of implementing the standard, they encounter many problems, which lead to the failure of the enterprise production, and the testing organization is also at a loss as to what the standard regulations are unclear. This paper analyzes these problems and puts forward some suggestions to improve the relevant standards.

1 stitch crack

The main products of this index are non silk lightweight and rotten flowers. pajamas Products.

1.1 the project can be exempt from examination. Most of the enterprises in China are in accordance with the provisions of first class quality grade. The requirements of FZ/T81001 - 2007 standard for first class products are less than 0.6cm. Although the mention of silk products is carried out according to the regulations of GB/T18132, cotton and synthetic pajamas are also very light. These products are very popular in the market. However, because the standards do not differentiate the products of this category, many enterprises fail to meet the standard requirements of product testing results. Therefore, some enterprises are risking the risk of being unqualified by supervision and sampling for production and sales. Some enterprises have no choice but to abandon the development and production of such products; some have drafted the enterprise standard of light pajamas through various efforts. However, there are still a few enterprises that have the ability to draft enterprise standards. Most enterprises still need to rely on industry standards. Therefore, we should make more detailed differentiation requirements in the standards. Table 1 is the data of stitch slip for light weight and rotten fabric using different tensile load tests. The specific method is appendix B of standard FZ/T81001 - 2007.

The test results showed that the first three samples failed under the minimum 40N tensile force. But such lightweight pajamas are popular in the market. And because pajamas are usually worn at home, there won't be too many moves. Consumers will wear them carefully when they are dressed. So for this lightweight and rotten pajamas, it is recommended to refer to the standard GB/T18132 - 2008 "silk dress" [2] (hereinafter referred to as the silk dress standard) clause 4.12.5, so as to avoid being assessed. However, the relevant precautions and cautionary terms should be clearly expressed in the product instructions. Moreover, we can draw on the definition of light and thin products in silk clothing standards in the standard.

1.2 the assessment of the armhole seam is recommended to cancel the clause in this standard. The 5.4.6 seam is defined as the sampling area of the armhole seam as the rear armhole. This part is different from the slot and side seam. It is a bend and has a large curvature. During the test, the direction of the tensile load is at a certain angle to the yarn. After the sample is cut, the yarn of the clamping part and the sleeve hole are not identical, and the dislocation is disconnected from each other. Therefore, before the tensile force, the specimen of the sleeve joint is slipped or disconnected, so the test results can not accurately reflect the actual situation of the crack degree of the sleeve joint. Therefore, it is recommended to cancel the slippage assessment of the seam of the armhole.

1.3 the effective clamping area should be added to the test method. There are two effective clamping areas in the current test method: 5cm * 2.5cm and 2.5cm * 2.5cm. In the silk clothing standard, the effective clamping area of the stitch test is the latter. However, in this standard, no effective area of clamping is tested. It is understood that most of the testing organizations use 5cm * 2.5cm, but some laboratories of garment manufacturing enterprises can not be unified with professional testing organizations. The result is often inconsistent because of the different effective clamping area. According to the current situation, if not silk The light weight pajamas are tested according to the standards of silk garments. The applied load is reduced to 67N or 45N from the standard 100N, but the effective clamping area is smaller, especially the effective clamping width is reduced, so that the force yarn is reduced, which improves the requirements of sewing cracks. Therefore, it is suggested that the effective clamping area should be defined in the light of the stress load, the requirement index and the industry practice. If we want to adjust the effective area of the standard to 2.5cm * 2.5cm, we need to reconsider the allowable degree of crack and the definition of lightweight products.

1.4 it is necessary to increase the judgement of slippage and fabric breakage in the seam slippage test. At present, there may be fabric breakage, fabric tear, suture fracture or slippage in the testing process. However, there are no indication and criteria for the three situations. The testing organization can only record facts on the report, which will cause problems for enterprises to improve production technology and improve product quality. Generally speaking, this project should mainly assess whether the sewing process is solid, rather than considering all kinds of strength indexes comprehensively. The strength of the fabric is more scientific and accurate by using the breaking strength and tear strength.

Therefore, it is suggested that reference to standard FZ/T81010 - 2009 "windbreaker" [3] in Table 5 (Continued) Note 1: "failure of fabric test results in fabric breakage, fabric tear or suture fracture phenomenon is judged to be qualified, slippage is judged to be unqualified."

2 tear strength

This standard stipulates: "the tear strength of fabrics and linings is not less than 7N, of which the transparent thin fabric is not less than 4.5N, and quilted products are not evaluated." Transparent thin fabrics are not defined in the standard, so they need to be judged by human senses. This inevitably leads to disagreement. Therefore, it is recommended to avoid the assessment of the project with reference to the definition of lightweight products mentioned above. However, it is necessary to identify the transparent thin fabric by human sense sense.

3 size change rate

3.1 the size change rate of water washing. According to the regulations of GB/T8630 - 2002, three samples of finished products were randomly selected from the batch samples, and the average value of three pieces was obtained. If implemented according to this standard, there will be many problems.

The location of the 3.1.1 measurement is not corresponding to the position examined in this standard, and the measurement method is different. Table 2 is GB/T8629 2001 - "preparation, marking and measurement of fabric samples and garments in the test of dimensional changes of textiles" [4] and the comparison between the common measuring positions and measuring methods of this standard. From this form, we can clearly see that the different standards are different in the location and measurement method.

The relevant standard is not uniform for measuring the size deviation of a certain part and the change rate of washing size, which not only increases the difficulty of detection, but also leads to the difference of measurement results. GB/T8628 - 2001 the main technical contents and test methods for the preparation, marking and measurement of fabric samples and garments in the measurement of dimensional changes of textiles are the same as those of ISO3759:1994. However, the measurement habits of foreign producers are different from those of domestic manufacturers. Therefore, when the standard revision department is supporting foreign standards or when the finished product standards are matched with the methods and standards, the measurement habits of Chinese garment manufacturers should be taken into consideration and the corresponding standards should be applied to each other. Many domestic knitting standards have considered this problem. For example, GB/T8878 - 2009 "cotton knitted underwear" [6] has made a new explanation of the measuring location and measuring methods, and has a legend. This greatly facilitates the operators of the enterprises and testing laboratories, and reduces the complexity of the measurement process.

Therefore, it is suggested that the measurement area should be redefined in this standard, and it should be unified with the deviation measurement method for size and size, and should be illustrated with illustrations or directly referenced to the deviation of measurement specifications and sizes. {page_break}

Washing procedures and drying methods should be added to 3.1.2 washing process.

In the silk clothing standard, the testing requirements for the size change rate of water washing are: "the testing method of the dimension change rate of finished products washing water is in accordance with the regulations of GB/T8630, the product is washable by washing process 7A, the manual washing is manual washing, the drying method adopts the A method." In standard FZ/T73017 - 2008 "knitted household clothes" [7], the requirement for washing size change rate is: "washing and drying tests are performed according to GB/T8629, and 5A washing process is adopted. The number of tests was 3. Drying according to A method (hanging dry). The size change rate of washing silk and silk blended fabric is carried out according to the regulations of FZ/T43004. 10A washing process, washing with water and drying method are adopted according to A method.

The above two standards have clear requirements for washing procedures and air drying methods, but no washing and drying procedures are specified in the FZ/T81001 2007 standard. At present, most testing institutions choose washing procedures according to the selection of appendix D in GB/T8629 - 2001 "household washing and drying procedures for textile testing". For example, cotton fabric and viscose fabric with special finishing, dyed nylon, polyester, acrylic blended fabric, dyed polyester cotton blended fabric are processed by 4A program; cotton, linen or viscose fabric is 5A program; silk and printed acetate fabrics are selected by 8A program. It is unscientific to choose washing procedures simply according to the fiber content of fabrics. The style and use of clothes should be considered comprehensively and the washing methods of Chinese families should be determined. Therefore, there should be a recommended washing and drying procedure for this standard. For example, 5A washing procedures, hanging air drying and so on, so as to facilitate enterprises and testing institutions to accurately implement this standard.

3.2 dry cleaning dimensional change rate

The 3.2.1 dry cleaning dimension change rate test is more simple than that of the washing size change rate test.

The requirement of this standard 5.4.1 for dry cleaning dimensional change rate is according to GB/T19981.2 rule: three pieces of finished products are randomly selected in batch samples, and the average value of three pieces is obtained. Standard GB/T19981.2 - 2005 "professional maintenance, dry cleaning and wet cleaning of textile fabrics and garments: second parts: procedures for performance test using dry cleaning and finishing of four vinyl chloride" [9] does not specify the selection, size, marking, measurement and calculation of samples. There is also the same problem as the size change rate test of water washing. Therefore, it is recommended that the amendment be added.

4 appearance after washing

This standard clause 4.13.2 requires that after finished washing, no visible holes, decorative pieces, buttons, and obvious distortion will appear. There is no possibility of color change after washing. Therefore, it is recommended that this clause increase the color difference between the washed sample and the unwashed sample, not less than 3~4 grade.

conclusion

It is inevitable for the formulation of industry standards to lag behind the innovation of products. However, when making standards, they should also be forward-looking so as to reflect the height and accuracy of the industry standards. The analysis and suggestions for the above problems all come from the voice of relevant enterprises and the confusion of front-line inspection staff, and their solutions will benefit many enterprises, consumers and testing organizations. It has important technical value and economic value. In addition, when citing international standards, it is not necessary to blindly copy the quotes. When we encounter different practices in China, we should try our best to comply with domestic practices, otherwise, we will bring many problems. At the same time, enterprises should improve their ability to formulate enterprise standards in order to cooperate with product innovation. Otherwise, the new product may be affected by the lag of the industry standard.