Origin Of Cheongsam
cheongsam
As a member of the robe family, its origin is considered to be traceable to the deep clothing of the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period.
Deep clothing has been important to people since the spring and Autumn period and the Han Dynasty. There is a certain relationship between the robes of later generations or the deep garments.
In fact, the difference between the deep garment and the robe is different. The former is divided into the upper and the lower, the effect is equivalent to the uniform of the coat, and the robes are basically separated from the upper and lower parts of the coat, meaning that the robes are gradually accepted as a stable dress pattern and are compatible with the clothing under the coat.
The robe has been used for the Royal costume since the Han Dynasty. Most of the robes were made by hand and straight. The clothes were wide and wide, and the sleeves were fat and wide. They were tight at the cuffs, forming a circular arc on their arms and legs.
The style of the robe was changed in the past dynasties, the Han Dynasty deep garment robe, the Tang Dynasty round collar pleat and the Ming Dynasty were all typical gowns. The wearers were mostly intellectuals and ruling classes, and became fashionable after a long time.
The robe therefore represents a leisurely life of the upper class and the cultural people who do not produce anything.
The wide robe of the dress.
It has gradually become a symbol of the costumes and civilization in the Central Plains.
Popular in
Ethnic minority
The robes of the region or nomadic people are generally tight and narrow, which is conducive to riding or other fierce activities. This style of clothing is mostly suitable for the body with left, narrow sleeves and robes.
Historically, the Han people have adopted this narrow style of Robe style for many times. Zhao Wuling's Hu Fu riding is a typical example.
Hu clothing in the Tang Dynasty was also popular for a while. Hu Fu in Tang Kaiyuan and Tianbao years and Hu Zhuang, Hu Qi and Hu Le were the same people. They could be regarded as a popular example of foreign culture in a large area. They belonged to the "imported products" of the streets in Changan.
In the Liao, Jin, yuan and Qing Dynasties and other ethnic minority regimes, the robes that fit together once played the leading role of clothing, though they all experienced or showed the process or trend of becoming broad.
Since the Qing Dynasty was the longest and stable, the gowns could be regarded as typical costumes.
In the first year of emperor Shunzhi (AD 1644), the Qing Dynasty sent troops to Beijing, and then unified the whole country.
With the initial stabilization of the regime, the reform of the service system began to be forced, and a great wave of pheasant hair service was launched.
At this point, the traditional crown clothes are almost completely prohibited. It is said that the clothing of the thousand years of jackets is only kept in the dress of Han nationality women at home.
Ceremonial occasions, men and women wear robes. There are many kinds of gowns, such as Korean robes, dragon robes, python robes and regular robes.
From the word meaning, the cheongsam refers to the gown worn by the flag men (both men and women), but only the gowns worn by the eight banners are closely related to the cheongsam of the later generations.
The rulers of the Qing Dynasty emphasized Manchu riding and shooting, trying to maintain their inherent customs and ways of dressing. On the one hand, they assimilated the Han nationality with the costumes of the Manchu nationality. At the same time, the Manchu and Mongolian women were strictly forbidden to follow the Han costumes. The Manchu women's illegal imitation of the fashion of Han women's dress was evident from the repeated ban issued by Ding Zhi and Jiaqing.
In the late Qing Dynasty, Han women also followed the Manchu costume.
The difference between the dress styles of Manchu Han women and their costumes is becoming smaller and smaller, thus becoming the prelude to the popularity of cheongsam.
In the late Qing Dynasty, the gowns worn by the flag girls were wide and wide, with straight lines and long ankles.
The "Yuanbao collar" is very common. The collar covers the ear, and the gown is embroidered with various patterns. The collar, sleeve, flap, and flats have multiple broad rolling edges.
During the period of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, when the roll reached the peak stage, some even the whole clothes were all rolled up with lace, so that it was almost impossible to identify the original material.
The decoration of the flag robe is very complicated.
At that time, the Qing Dynasty was shaky and hard to continue.
The imperialist cannon gun broke the closed door of the Qing Dynasty.
In order to save the peril, the Qing Dynasty Westernization school put forward the strategy of saving the nation by "learning from the middle school and using western learning as a means of action".
Among the Chinese students and servicemen, the western style students were the first to wear clothes, cap and Western style military uniform and military caps.
The input of foreign dress provides another reference frame for judging beauty, which directly affects the change of social dress concept.
In the future, cheongsam evolved into a new style of Chinese and Western styles. The change of Western cheongsam is the beginning of this change.
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In 1911, the storm of the revolution of 1911 broke down and overthrew the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history. It eliminated the political obstacles for the popularization of western style clothing in China. At the same time, it also threw aside the traditional harsh ethics and the concept of weathering, and lifted all sorts of shackles of strict hierarchy.
The free pformation of clothing towards civilians and internationalization has come to an end, and the cheongsam has thus lifted the traditional heavy burden.
Because of the demise of Manchu ruling regime, cheongsam wears very little at this time.
Western style Chinese dress is bustling and mixed.
The old flag robe was abandoned and the new cheongsam was started in the troubled times.
At this time, the fashion center has been moved from sue to Yang.
Shanghai
。
The Shanghai port, which is open to the commercial port, is located in the same place, and the five parties live together.
Shanghai is also a heavy town for women to seek emancipation.
Missionaries, businessmen and revolutionaries competed in the establishment of women's studies, and set off a wave of feminist movement. Seeking the social atmosphere of liberation was the habit of dressing up.
Clothing decoration swept the Qing style of pretense, tending to be concise, tonal striving for elegance, focusing on embody the natural beauty of women.
Cheongsam originally appeared in the form of waistcoat, with the length of the vest and the back of the foot on the short coat.
After changing the long waistcoat into a sleeved pattern, it becomes the rudiment of the new cheongsam.
It is said that the most popular female student in Shanghai is the initiator of cheongsam.
At that time, female students, as the representatives of intellectual women, became the ideal image of the society. They were symbols of civilization, the forerunner of fashion, and celebrities such as celebrities, brothels, etc.
30, 40s is the prime time of cheongsam, and its basic profile has matured.
The new cheongsam, which came into being after the revolution of 1911 and was popular during the northern expedition, is different from the gown of a flag girl.
In the late 30s, the improved cheongsam also absorbed western style cutting methods on the structure, which made the robes fit more appropriately, which will be introduced in detail in the later chapters.
Although the cheongsam is born out of the Qing banner gown, it has become different from the old system, and has become a modern Chinese woman's standard dress with the characteristics of Chinese and Western dress.
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