Fashion Industry "No Plagiarism, No Trend"?
"No plagiarism, no
Trend
"?
Not only fast fashion brands play plagiarism games, but also fashion players.
In the fashion industry, plagiarism is not only regarded as a shameful crime, but rather regarded as the engine of fashion circulation.
A few days ago, Italy fashion brand D&G displayed a diamond cotton trousers in its 2009 autumn and winter show, and Armani had almost one in the June 2008 show.
So the more than 70 year old Giorgio Armani was furious, accusing Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana two of copying his work: "if they are unknown, I understand, but they have long been successful.
I was disappointed by this move.
Dolce and Gabbana are very calm, insisting no plagiarism and retort that even though they still have a lot to learn and learn from Armani, the two did not see Armani's show for many years, and the D&G brand style has been closely linked with their hometown Sicily.
Though top fashion designers often complain about themselves.
Design
Shanzhai, but a world-renowned designer jumped out and pointed his fingertips to the industry peers.
The high street fashion plagiarism international big card is of course a flood phenomenon.
For example, Zara plagiarized Chanel and made some cheap soft coats. They drew inspiration from the big names, which was harmless, because the big things would not be easily compared with the high street goods.
High fashion is aimed at the perfection of fabric and profile, which requires enough capital to maintain.
Prada's heavy inlaid lace comes from St Gallen, a famous town in Switzerland. All the lace are limited by the Forster Rohner embroidery company's order for Prada. The embroidery of Chanel tweed jacket is from the French national embroidery workshop Lesage, and the feathered feather comes from the badminton workshop Lemari ye, which is unique in the world.
The "reference" between big brands is more subtle.
The spring and summer show in Nalandda Bhandari2008 completely copied Marchesa's dress for the season. The fashion blog High Heel Confidental sarcastically said, "do I value the movie?"
In the spring of Bhandari 2009, another case coincided with Anna Sui. The blog had to say, "Once bitten, twice shy" is not really used to describe Bhandari.
Marni is an extreme example.
Consuelo Castiglioni, the creative director of the brand, has been working on Prada's plagiarism for many years, and Castiglioni has not received any design courses, but has thoroughly and thoroughly analyzed Prada's previous works.
This season, Marni uses heavy geometric lace with diamond shaped and round dots. Unfortunately, the core theme of Prada's last season is heavy lace.
Prada dealt with Ma Haimao in 2007 autumn and winter to make a teddy bear's hairy texture and make a knee coat. In autumn and winter of 2008, Marni was also imitated perfectly. The color changed from Prada washed blue to cobalt blue, and the style remained unchanged. Even more ironic was that even the models had not been changed, and the two coats were all Irina Kulikova.
Maybe Castiglioni and Prada think alike, but why does Castiglioni always slow down?
Among those who draw lessons from others, there are also those who have already entered the hall.
Designer
Figure.
Alexander McQueen is always described as a pioneer of avant-garde fashion, but is this really the case?
In the spring and summer of 2009, he constructed a mini skirt with a profile in Eiffel Tower. But the influence of the Balenciaga flower armor was clearly perceived from the streamlined appearance and the warrior attributes highlighted in the costume.
The autumn and winter of 2008 is a prospect for British history, but history is always strikingly similar. This show is mixed with traces of other people's works. The taffeta robes of the imperial high waist skirt and the pressed shaft can find its original inspiration source in the Christian Dior 2005 spring and summer advanced customization, and the mini waistline Rose shape is John Galliano's signature dish.
Jean Paul Gaultier's plagiarism in recent years is also notorious.
In the 1990s, Gaultier was a symbol figure, and its speech power and guidance for fashion were top rated.
But throughout the 2009 spring and summer clothing, the "reverse triangle" shoulder contour is clearly paying tribute to Maison Martin Margiela, and those lacklustre winding designs. Rodarte, Givenchy and John Galliano have all used these elements.
Advanced customization has made Gaultier famous for a long time, but now it has disappeared.
In the Japanese Premiere of the movie "Dark Knight", actress Maggie Gyllenhaal wore orange red lace cocktail dress. Many media mistaken it for Prada for the first time. Actually, it came from Gaultier 2008 autumn and winter series.
This is not the end of the matter. Jean Paul Gaultier's most unthinkable behavior is to repeatedly re publish the works that have been released and have not been modified to T.
It is necessary to distinguish between the plagiarism of the contemporaries and the inheritance of classics.
Many designers plagiarize or draw lessons from Yves Saint Lauret, and the more obvious are Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen.
The master's stuff is an eternal classic. It is not too much for the younger generation to preserve its entry into the elements of the times. It is like the protection of the material and cultural heritage we are always talking about today. This way to keep it reborn on the T platform is also a kind of protection.
In response to these "borrowing" practices, Prada has been more conservative than Armani. So far, no company has been publicly commented on it.
There used to be a big deal for this purpose. In 1994, the French court sentenced Ralph Lauren to plagiarize the Yves Saint Laurent style.
Swallowtail
And compensation for Yves Saint Laurent 38.3 million.
But in 1985, Yves Saint Laurent also fined $11 thousand for copying Spanish designer Jacques Esterel matador jacket.
But most of the cases of plagiarism disappear with the clothing season.
The fashion industry seems to be the law prohibiting the plagiarism of the weakest industries. For this "reference" or "salute", resorting to the solution of the law is not realistic. Even Giorgio Armani, it is only "accusation" instead of "accusation".
Clothing is a seasonal and fashionable commodity. It is impossible for companies with strong strength to apply for patents on every garment.
Even if the cost of patent application is not considered, the patent will become worthless after the patent application is over.
In addition, there is no copyright law in any country that puts the specific design, tailoring, selection of fabric and overall appearance of fashion into the protection of copyright law. What is generally protected is the use of famous fashion brand icons, floral ornaments and small amount of workmanship only jeans.
Clothes are released every quarter, but inspiration does not come when they want it to come.
Since there is no legal risk, when your inspiration Mousika takes a nap, simply draw on others.
Plagiarism has nothing to do with big brands that like to copy others, because as an international brand, its own elements are abundant, plagiarism is a part, rather than the whole, the proportion will not be as big as that of high street fashion. They are just lazy and disrespectful.
Latest fashion
Career performance.
Of course, in the long run, the survival of the fittest is the principle of shopping malls since ancient times.
For example, Marni, who likes to copy Prada most, is very discounted every season and has been very unpopular.
Every year during the fashion week, Chanel will write a letter to Women Wear Daily, entitled "letter to all well intentioned people who have misused the name of Chanel", and announced to the world: "although our style is clear, a coat that is not from us can never be a" Chanel coat ".
Although we are honored to see all kinds of "Chanel style", "Chanel" or "Chanel" imitation, please do not do so.
Our lawyers will actively deal with them.
We treat our trademarks with caution. "
But ironically, in the early autumn series of Chanel 2008, the pparent purple and light grey cicada gauze is like Prada 2008's spring and summer fabrics.
Big cards have great manners and each has their own worries.
Armani even dropped speculation.
In fact, D&G's trousers are not the same as those that Armani has released. They are very traditional rhomboid pyjamas. Are these hundreds of men's pyjamas invented by Armani?
This is nothing more than the trend of underwear nowadays.
In other words, underwear was worn out by Gaultier in 1990s.
Designers who have been copied directly have not spoken yet.
If there is no direct damage to the interests of the world, is it appropriate for each family to solve the problem? After all, the tide can not demand these more and more commercialized fashion brands to be used as academic lofty posture to launch a fashion show every half a year.
In August 2007, US Senator Chuck Schumer proposed that copyright protection be extended to the fashion industry.
Mike Masnick, the Techdirt blogger of technology blogs, says the purpose of copyright is to stimulate new creative content - but the fashion industry itself has this creativity, and it is completely unnecessary to add.
David Levine, an economics professor at University of Washington, even said that copyright enforcement for fashion design would damage the fashion industry, which would kill the biggest driving force of fashion industry.
He said that designers are not doing things behind closed doors. They study their works carefully, and they also like to excavate treasures in history. They can copy or draw lessons from what they like.
The result is the trend.
Plagiarism brings the trend and the trend drives sales.
All in all, he said, copying is letting.
fashion
The engine of the cycle.
Don't you think so?
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