Xinhai Fashion &Nbsp; Start The Centennial Tide Of China

100 years ago, October 10, 1911 Wuchang Uprising With a gunshot, the national revolution rolled in. The revolution of 1911 succeeded in overthrowing the rule of the Qing Dynasty, ending China's monarchy and opening a new era of democracy and Republic. Revolution of 1911 Not only political changes, but also new changes in clothing. As one of the important symbols of the revolution of 1911, the Chinese tunic suit was once called China's "national costume".

" Clothes & Accessories This is the most significant change in China. You know, the style of Chinese people has been so different from us for a long time. You can't imagine a Chinese who doesn't wear Chinese clothes. But now, everything has changed, and wearing western clothes has become a symbol of fashion. After the revolution of 1911, Joseph, the representative of the United States, Rosenkranz, who was stationed in China, said in the New York Times that if the inclination of advocating the West continues to develop, the impact on the global clothing market will be surprising.

After a hundred years, looking back on the past history, Joseph's inference has become a reality. The surging fashion ecology in contemporary China attracts global attention. And the beginning of this wind was the revolution of 1911. The revolution of 1911 is the first truly democratic revolution in Chinese history. It is complete because it is not only a political revolution, but also a cultural revolution and a social life revolution. The change of clothing before and after Xinhai is an important part of it. Of course, this change did not begin until the day of the revolution, nor did it stop with the temporary rest of the revolution. Therefore, it is not so much a sign of revolution that it is a centennial Chinese fashion dress. Trend The beginning.

In the commemoration of the centenary of 1911, we may as well abandon the political and cultural level, and follow the narration of Professor Yuan Ze and Hu Yue, the author of the hundred years of clothing.

　 All flowers bloom in the tide.

The revolution of 1911, a political change, made the ancient feudal dynasty completely collapse in China, and at the same time eliminated the "clothing hierarchy" that had been stubbornly rooted in the minds of the Chinese people for thousands of years. The traditional harsh etiquette and weathering concept of clothing "Zhao Ming, Zhi Wei" has been completely buried. Changing clothes became the most direct pursuit of the new life of equal freedom and new life under the impact of new ideas and new culture. What is intriguing is that the democratic revolution of 1911 is not thorough, but the costume revolution under its influence has been resolutely continued. From then on, China began to "fashion".

Reporter: in many historical documents, when it comes to the social background of the revolution of 1911, there is a description of clothing. What kind of state is the clothing of the domestic society at that time?

Yuan / Hu: at the time of Xinhai, it became an irresistible trend of history to cut braided clothes easily. At that time, someone described it as saying: "the new dress is flourishing, the top is mended, the braid is destroyed, the plait is destroyed, the clouds are bun Hing, the fallen horses are thrown out, the patriotic hats are flourishing, the cap of the leather is destroyed; the love Hua Huai Xing, the female pocket is extinguishing; the sky is full, the feet are destroyed, the shoes are full and the shoes are destroyed." (times March 5, 1912). Changes in social fashion are like lanterns. The contest between the old and new political forces is also reflected in the wrestling of new and old clothes. Everything seemed to be very confusing and complicated at that time. Western-style clothes, leather boots, gowns, gowns and gowns were all parallel to each other's clothes.

Reporter: what representative clothes do you have?

Yuan / Hu: at that time, men's clothing was the most popular dress in the society. They were still wearing big gowns and right gowns and long gowns. In western style clothing, the formal system of "service" promulgated by the provisional government of the Republic of China in the Republic of China and the Senate confirmed the black coat, the collar type was the sharp corner collar, the lower collar was decorated with satin material, and the trousers were lined with satin noodles. The suit became a semi formal dress for men in the Republic of China. The collar was turned around, the left chest opened, the left side of the garment was opened around the left side, the single row or double buttons, and the vest and trousers were made into three suits. The fabric was mainly woollen cloth, and the clothes were black, dark blue or white. Suits and robes were parallel to political and social occasions in the early Republic of China.

There is also a modified western style garment from Japan, which is usually a collar for students, with three bags and seven buttons. It also has a pocket, five or six buttons, most of which are black, dark or light grey.

In addition, western style lapel, sleeves, cardigan, western style long overcoat, Western shirts, hand knitted and mechanically knitted sweaters (commonly known as sweater shirts) are also popular, and all kinds of military uniform worn by Beijing political warlords are also fashionable.

Women's clothing is beginning to be simplified, the upper skirts are the mainstream, the clothes are more suitable, the waist of the tops is narrower, the big ones are right, the sleeves are elbows, the cuffs are trumpet shaped, also known as "big sleeves", the waist and hips are curved, and the hem has arc, rounded corners, right angles, etc. Female students and young women were more obviously influenced by the Japanese women's clothing at that time. The high collar clothes were narrow and slender and matched with black long skirts. If you add a pair of oval blue glasses and wear a pair of pointed shoes, that is the most. Fashionable Dress up.

Reporter: the "service system" promulgated by the Republic of China can be regarded as the first official introduction of Western costume culture into China in the history. But why is the western style clothing basically adopted in the selection of samples?

Yuan / Hu: before and after the revolution of 1911, the suit was often regarded as a symbol of the revolutionary party. At that time, it was called "the giant of revolution, mostly returned from abroad. The grass crowns and leather shoes had become habitual and imitate each other, thinking that they should not be allowed to serve as new members." In the upper class, Western-style clothes become a popular "official uniform".

The photos from that time can be seen. In December 29, 1911, a temporary presidential election was held in Nanjing, representing 17 provinces, 40 participants, 60% wearing long gowns, and 40% wearing western suits. In March 25, 1912, Prime Minister Tang Shaoyi went to Nanjing to receive the provisional government. Sun Zhongshan took a group photo with the president and Tang Shaoyi. More than 40 people in the photo, most of them wore suits. The revolutionary who accepted the Western costume culture naturally chose the western style of clothing in the "service system" promulgated 4 months later. {page_break}

　 Classic Zhongshan Costume

Although the official decree of the service system has chosen the western style of service, it has not been widely implemented in the light of the incompletely thorough revolution itself. Instead, the "Zhongshan dress", named by Mr. Zhongshan, has become the most successful nationalized men's clothing in the history of modern Chinese clothing. It has emerged in all phases of the history of China's future political history and has become the most political and progressive fashion style.

In the history of China, there were three significant changes in costume: Zhao Wuling's Hu Fu riding, the implementation of Chinese clothing by Emperor Wei Xiaowen and the emperor of the Tang Dynasty. But these reforms are not in the traditional scope of anti tradition, but do not fundamentally touch the improvement of the concept of feudal hierarchy. The difference between the Chinese tunic suits is that, as a product of the fundamental revolution, it fits the traditional aesthetic habits of the people, and properly combines the aesthetic form and craft of the modern international costumes. On the Y modeling, it shows the public's admiration and acceptance of democracy, equality, innovation, progress and other social ideals.

Reporter: the Chinese tunic suit was active in most of the ups and downs of Chinese political history in the twentieth Century. However, some problems in the history of the Chinese tunic suit have always been debated. As an authoritative historian of clothing, please give a general analysis of this.

Yuan / Hu: when it comes to the birth of the Chinese tunic suit, there is no doubt that the historical materials have unparalleled authority. It has more realistic historical and historical value than the historical materials. According to the survey: the earliest picture of Sun Zhongshan wearing a Chinese tunic suit was shot in 1922 when he was planning the northern expedition in Guangdong. When Sun Zhongshan was appointed Chief Marshal of land and sea, there was historical data that he said, "one day, if we want to review the army, if we want to dress the marshal, it will be too grand and unsuitable." So the germination and practice of this modest and simple dress - Zhongshan suit. It is said that when he was not imaginary, he wore Chinese tunic suits frequently in Mr. Sun's historical photos in 1922 and 1923. According to the records of Hong Gang history: around 1920, Sun Zhongshan brought back the Japanese army's official uniform from Japan and asked for a slight improvement of the "Rongchang Xiang" woolen suit in Shanghai, which is basically consistent with the image and historical materials of 1922. After the Beijing coup in 1924, when Sun Zhongshan went north, most of his last pictures were dressed in Chinese tunic suits. The last wear of the great historical man also laid an important foundation for the popularity of Chinese tunic suits in the future.

It is deduced that the Chinese tunic suit should be around 1922.

However, according to another version of the history of Hong Band clothing, in 1905, Sun Zhongshan invited Japanese overseas Chinese Zhang's "Yi Yi Chang woolen clothes shop" to create the Chinese tunic suit. And put forward the so-called "early Chinese tunic" theory. However, according to historical photo analysis, Sun Zhongshan wore more suits before 1912. Only in 1912 as interim president, Sun Zhongshan walked through a two garment with erect pocket and chest pocket. This style is different from the student suit and the Chinese tunic suit. After 1914 to 1918, he frequently wore student clothes, and many standard photographs were wearing light coloured student suits. Therefore, there was a saying that "Sir likes to dress students."

If the garment with two bags of bags in the 1912 appeared as "early Chinese tunic suit", it would be ambiguous for the identification of the Zhongshan suit, but the time for the emergence of the Chinese tunic suit would be pushed forward to 1912.

As for who designed and made the Chinese tunic suit, this is the most difficult question to prove in all the questions, because there is no accurate and authoritative historical evidence from the beginning.

There are different versions of this question: one is that Mr. Sun Zhongshan is the creator of the design, because Mr. Sun Zhongshan first wore this garment, and the above mentioned Chinese tunic suit mentioned that Mr. Sun suggested that it should be improved by a certain style, so the naming of his name is logical. This is quite common and ideal. The consecration of the generals is very much in line with national psychology. {page_break}

There are two versions in the book history of Hong Band clothing. In 1905, when Sun Zhongshan was in Yokohama, Japan, Huang Xing was invited to invite Japanese overseas Chinese Zhang's Yi Yi Chang woolen clothing shop, "to entrust the overseas Chinese of Zhang Fangcheng and other clothing circles" to the intention of creating new Chinese clothes. These tailors, who are quite well-known in the Japanese clothing industry, have manufactured the early Chinese tunic suit, the so-called early Chinese tunic suit, according to sun and Huang's opinions. Then it was said, "Mr. Sun Zhongshan once wore the Japanese army uniform, the student suit and the early Chinese tunic made in Japan to" Rong Changxiang ", and asked for these clothes as the foundation, and made a new set of four bags with straight lapel and bagging, and the bag cover was made of inverted Hill Style pen holder. Change the 7 buttons to 5, symbolizing the five power constitution. 4 cuffs of cuffs are changed to 3 grains, symbolizing the three principles of the people. From the Shanghai "Rong Changxiang woolen suit" boss Wang Caiyun completes the Chinese tunic suit on this basis.

There is also a Guangdong version: Mr. Sun Zhongshan inspired the overseas Chinese Huang Long Sheng to design the Chinese tunic suit. After 1911, the revolutionary party's clothes were very complicated, and Mr. Sun Zhongshan was hard to decide. He commissioned Huang Longsheng to design and make a new style which was different from the traditional requirements of the Chinese nation. After taking this important task, Huang Longsheng took a look at the samples of various garments, and chose a sample of his own made by the British uniforms, which he presented to Mr. Sun Zhongshan. It was immediately welcomed by Sun Zhongshan and revolutionary party members. This is the Chinese tunic that people like to wear.

With the lack of historical evidence on the line, it can only be speculated that the Chinese tunic suit was designed and made by a tailor under the guidance of Sun Zhongshan. More accurate conclusions need further examination.

Reporter: there are many mysteries in the birth of the Chinese tunic suit. How did it evolve from the then Mr. Zhongshan to the general public? What kind of process has it gone through, and is generally accepted by the Chinese?

Yuan / Hu: Although Mr. Sun Zhongshan is respected by people from all walks of life, in 1912 or 1924, except for Mr. Sun, almost no one was wearing a Chinese tunic suit. The so-called "wearing Chinese tunic crowd" is not true. Even after the photos in 1925, except for a few of the Kuomintang officials, I could hardly find the traces of the Zhongshan suit.

The Republic of China Archives in June 1927 has Zhou Wenliang's proposal to reform the system of service. "Reform of the petition system is a great way to look at it." it can be proved that even in the late 20s of last century, the Chinese tunic suit was still being promoted. In April 1927, when the Nanjing national government was first established, the political center moved southward, and the people appealed to change the system to promote the Chinese tunic suit, but it was not officially approved. But the political orientation of the Chinese tunic suit is obvious. In December 1928, Zhang Xueliang declared his banner in the northeast. Later, he put on the tunic for the first time and took the oath of office as commander in chief of the northeast frontier. The Beiyang pictorial published photos of the young commander dressed in a dark yellow tunic.

In 1929, the Nanjing national government promulgated the new "Regulations on service", which was an important reform after the "service system" in the first year of the people's Republic of China. The new system abolishes the tuxedo, requiring men's gowns to be robes and gowns. But the uniform position of the Chinese tunic suit is not clear. Many articles nowadays claim that the uniform of the Chinese tunic suit is not true.

From 30s to 30s, the archives of the Republic of China could reflect that the Kuomintang had issued the case of "party members' clothing should be used for domestic products". In February 1930, Zhou Wei, the Foreign Affairs Committee of the treaty, presented the proposal of "administrative reform several things". The so-called "positive service" part said: "please make clear that the government agencies and school personnel will be changed to Zhongshan clothing regardless of their jobs. The reasons are as follows: (1) comply with the training of the prime minister; (2) eliminate the old clothes with a new atmosphere, avoid the dress to push the economy; (3) uniform; (4) facilitate sports; (5) guide the people (the Chinese tunic suit is cheap and easy to work, although the poor are also easy to imitate).

The early Chinese tunic suit is confined to political officials and is generally a follower of the three people's principles. At that time, people and staff were more accustomed to wearing Chinese long gowns or suits and student suits. It was not until 1936 when the Republic of China government amended the bill of service that the Chinese tunic suit was made clear and emphasized as a "uniform" for the male civil servants. Since then, the Chinese tunic suit has been gradually extended.

Later, because Chinese political leaders were mainly dressed in Chinese tunic suits, in the quite long historical period, the most popular clothing in China was the Chinese tunic suit, which was called "wool" by Western media because of Mao Zedong's dress and political influence. At this time, the Chinese tunic suit became a political symbol of Red China.

It is undeniable that the emergence and popularity of Chinese tunic suits are closely related to the advocacy of political leaders and the change of political situation. It is also undeniable that the costume style and outline of Zhongshan suit are Zhou Zheng, with reasonable structure, clear lines, strong functions and solemn, solemn and simple aesthetic feeling. Its overall shape embodies the social ideals and aspirations of democracy, equality, innovation, progress and so on, and is not restricted by the region, age, social class and status.

Reporter: as time goes on, there is a great difference between the Chinese tunic suit and Mr. Zhongshan's clothing. What kind of evolution has it undergone?

Yuan / Hu: the style of the Chinese tunic suit has undergone some changes from the initial stage to the completion stage. It was originally made of seven buttons, a pleated pocket on the front, a back seam on the back, and a belt at the middle of the back, and white in summer and black in other seasons. From the literature, it is difficult to find out how many buttons, pockets, bags or bags of the original Zhongshan suit. The so-called "early Chinese tunic" is a closed collar, two chest pocket and a bag cover. The bag lid has no buttons. After that, it will become a Chinese tunic suit with turned collar, four pockets and a pocket lid.

The shape of the Zhongshan suit was basically established in 20s. The main features are: the collar collar and the lapel collar, the collar with a eight figure collar, the upper and lower four bags with a cover pocket, and the chest pocket bag with the inverted hill type penholder type, called the "penholder cover"; the lower two are the hanging bags, that is, the pockets of the pockets of the edge pockets, commonly known as "tiger bags" (bags with pockets extending around the edges of the bags), four pockets are fastened by buttons, five front buttons for the front buttons (the first seven grains), three cuffs on the cuffs, and the back has a waist belt, back seam and slit, and then the belt and slit are removed. Its The Nanjing national government listed the Chinese tunic suit as a civil servant costume in the 30s of last century. The four pockets of the Chinese tunic suit are described as "ritual, righteousness, honesty and shame"; the five buttons on the chest refer to the "separation of five powers"; the three buttons of the cuffs are referred to as the "three people's principles".

Standing on the bustle of "east wind and west" today, looking back on the beauty of "Xinhai fashion" hundred years ago, it seems that we can see a historical development inevitability from the change of dress. It is also a product of the collision of cultural exchanges. It is also on this land of China that the confusion of 100 years ago merged with the high spirit of the hundred years spanning time and space, and settled in the fashion trend of China.