The Costumes Of Hakka People
The clothing of the Hakkas includes clothing, shoes, hats, skirts, pads, jewelry and rain gear.
All clothes were in ancient times.
Han Tang system
The relic is relatively simple, generous, wide and long, with deep color, black, blue and gray, and only summer ramie.
Spin
The white cloth is rich in white silk and satin.
Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, the same is true.
The following are briefly stated below:
Usually there is not much difference between ordinary men's clothes and men and women. The coat is "big shirt", the right side is diagonal, the opening button is on the right side, the cloth button is used, the copper button is used carefully, the dress is only added one or two edges (embroidered lace) on the edge of the collar to show the difference between men and women.
The sleeves of the clothes are wide and the cuffs are about one foot wide.
Men's clothing is also called "long gown", commonly known as "four Wai Qi", the length of which can cover "foot eye Ren".
This shirt is made.
Full dress
Use, exquisite and wear "gown", with a small cap (commonly known as "Rugby black hat"), in the year or when to wear.
Pants, men and women are basically no different, a wide head and big feet, the waist is made of soft cloth, when wearing a yarn woven cloth belt (commonly known as "pants head belt") tie, or simply do not use cloth belt, the pants cross strung tightly back in the inside.
Trouser tubes (commonly known as trouser legs) are eight to two feet wide.
A pair of trousers can be worn across two legs.
If cut off, like today's popular fashion "skirt pants".
In the old days, men and women usually did not wear "underpants" (underwear).
Underwear is generally worn, commonly known as "gown" and "sleeping shirt". It has two styles: "big tie" and "Zheng Mao".
Paying attention to wearing underwear and underwear is the next thing in modern times.
There is not much difference between the summer clothes and the summer clothes. They only wear thin cloth and ramie cloth on summer day (commonly known as "summer cloth") and use thick cloth in winter.
In winter and spring, the clothes that protect the cold are collectively referred to as "cold clothes". They usually have "lined jacket" (that is, the clothes made of Double thick cloth), "cotton padded jacket" (cotton padded clothes), "cotton backs" and woolen sweaters, and many rich families have fur coats.
Next, wear cotton padded trousers.
The "breeches" are very strange in style. They only make two legs. They are not linked to each other. They are not waist waisted. When they wear the right and left legs, they wear one piece of cloth. They have a cloth on top and tie the cloth on the trousers.
Adult clothes are the same.
Its color is mostly black, blue and gray.
Cloth is made of cotton, "hemp textile, commonly known as" home machine cloth ".
The natural white background is dyed and bleached with soil dyes.
Dyestuff is made up of "Indigo powder", and it is also used to dye the plants such as "Dioscorea", "earth pearl" or "Wu Jiu Shu".
Clothes worn by children until they are three or four years old do not need buttons, they are tied tightly with cloth tape.
The upper body is a button type, and the lower body is "open crotch pants".
Generally speaking, adult clothes should be made before six or seven years of age.
The above clothes are all of cloth.
In general, people can only wear cloth.
The house of the rich is wearing silk and silk.
In the past, Hakka people also had silkworms and silk fabrics, but they could not afford to wear silk fabrics for export.
Between the two dynasties in Ming and Qing Dynasties, there was "Chengxiang cocoon" silk cloth in Meizhou. Later, because of Sichuan Tianfu silk cloth (commonly known as "poplin"), the "Chengxiang cocoon" declined, and it ceased production until the end of Qing Dynasty.
After the modern times, Hakka people came out of the South Ocean and were attacked by the Western machine cloth. The clothes and cloth were gradually improved, and the clothing styles were modified.
After refitting, there are all kinds of clothes, and all of them appear at all times and at all times.
First, men wear more than seven buttons and four bags of "Tang suit". Then there are "Zhongshan suit" and "suit". Women's clothing is also changed from narrow to long, narrow and short, and wearing fashionable buttons. Fashionable people wear "Qipao" (Manchu women's wear).
Young men and women wear "Hawaii" style.
This is the situation from 20 to 40s twentieth Century.
In the past 40 years, because of the progress of society, the opening of thought and the influence of the exchange of clothing at home and abroad, the clothing of Hakkas has also gone with the "big stream".
At present, the costumes of Hakka people are much the same as those in different parts of the country.
For example, middle-aged men and women wear more Zhongshan suits; young people often wear youth suits, student suits and army suits; young and middle-aged women wear more men's suits; in 70 and 80s, young and middle-aged people advocate Western-style clothes, fashionable dress, women's skirts, and people wearing "Qipao".
It's also a variety of ways.
Shoes, hats, skirts, handkerchiefs, hats, skirts and pads are made for the needs of all parts of the body, and also a part of clothing.
In the old days, Hakka people, especially farmers, did not pay much attention to shoes and caps and other things.
But when you celebrate holidays or go out, you notice the integrity of your clothes.
Shoes, old people usually only have cloth shoes and straw shoes. Rich people have cotton shoes in winter and leather shoes are only available after modern times.
Cloth shoes are homemade.
Men call "male shoes", women call "Po shoes", cloth bottom (with old cloth to dozens of layers of "Bu Po"), cloth (ordinary people home "home machine cloth", some rich families use silk).
The color of the upper is black.
Shoe type is wide mouth boat type, do not need shoelace, commonly known as "lazy shoes".
These shoes are still popular today, but they are sold in the market, but have been replaced by rubber or plastic substrates.
In the old days, women's shoes and embroidered shoes were made of satin or flannelette, with shoe upper or embroidered shoes.
Most of them are rich ladies.
There are two kinds of straw sandals: one is made of dry straw (commonly known as straw straw shoes), with "hemp" and "straw" as "weft", and a "foot shape". The front and rear sides of the shoes are worn by string, and it is economical and simple to make.
This is a pair of shoes for labor and wear for a couple of days.
Another kind of shoe is "Bu Po" bottom (later changed to "wheel rubber bottom"), the front "shoe nose", the left and right two cloth "ears", behind the "cloth heel" (commonly known as "shoes pain") all have "eyes", after the field ramie is tied, it can be worn with cloth tape.
Men and women have the same footwear.
In the old days, it was mostly worn for work, burden and walking.
This straw shoe is more durable than straw straw shoes, and most Hakka women can make it.
Now, the two kinds of straw shoes have disappeared and are replaced by rubber shoes and leather shoes.
Wearing rubber shoes was only the rise of modern times, and all of them began with "imported shoes" of Nanyang's imports, and later there were "back shoes" and "sneakers".
Leather shoes are more popular.
This is almost the same as the rest of the country.
Cotton shoes, also known as "old shoes" and "winter shoes", are shaped like cotton shoes, which are made of cotton for the elderly to wear in winter, mostly for wealthy families.
Rich or official people still wear "boots" (commonly known as "official shoes"), and the style of boots in ancient costume drama.
Socks must be worn outside shoes and weeding shoes.
In ancient times there were two kinds of socks and thread socks.
Wearing stockings and nylon socks is a modern thing.
In winter, some old people wear wool socks.
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Hat, Hakka people generally do not pay much attention to the hat, but usually wear less.
This may be related to Hakka people living in the south, warm weather, fresh air and less wind and sand.
In the old days, men had "little cap", "hood" and masked "night caps". Later, there were "dog felt hat" (WESTERN HAT) and "sun hat" (hard shell hat) imported from Nanyang; women had "cloth cap" (made of flannelette), wool cap, and some wore "wind caps"; the cloth cap of child (child) was round, and the front was tiger shaped (or "cat shaped").
In recent decades, except for children and child hats, the old, middle-aged and young hats have changed almost all styles, but the difference is not significant.
Old people often wear cotton caps, pile caps, wind caps and even leather caps. Young and middle-aged people wear army caps and fashion caps, and there is not much difference between men and women.
Skirt, Hakka skirt has two kinds, one is worn by old women, as "dress" of "pleated skirt", cloth quality, very long (Qi Jueyan), and later through shorter.
Only below knee level, after "54" is designated as "student skirt", it is still popular.
Some of them became knee length "miniskirts", worn only by young girls.
The dress also has a "dress". The jacket and skirt are linked together, and the back is opened with half buttons and buttons.
Such skirts used to be worn by teenagers and children, and later young women wore them.
These two kinds of dresses are handed down in the past. They are regarded as "fashion" in recent decades because they are "disappeared" in the past decades, just like wearing "Qipao" as "fashion".
Another kind of skirt, Hakka people called "skirt" and "Apron", refers to the "skirt around the body".
This "skirt" is for women and is made of cloth according to the size of each person's chest.
The upper end is trapezoid, and the lower side is rectangle.
The button is fasten on the button of the top of the coat, and the special skirt is arranged on the back, and the upper body is tightly closed.
So it's called "skirt around the body".
On the skirt side, use another color cloth to sew an inch wide edge and match clothes to wear.
There are many functions of the apron: one is decoration; the other is covering the top of the coat, so as not to stain, and can also play the role of chest binding; three, it can be used as a "headband", wrapped on the head, used as a hat, and four as a handkerchief.
In the past, in Hakka area, every woman had one or two skirts.
The women's skirts of Xiyang and the White House in Meixian are very particular. They are all made of blue cloth and white edge. They are exquisite workmanship. When they are used as a headband, they look like a special hat. They look very nice.
PA.
There are two kinds, one is a handkerchief (sweat towel). Hakkas are called "handkerchiefs", which are carried by everyone.
Another kind of handkerchiefs refers to women's "scarves", commonly known as "Tung tou pa" (that is, Baotou cloth).
In the past, Hakka women were used for nearly forty or fifty years, but Xingning, Wuhua, Longchuan and other places were still used by older Hakka women.
This kind of "handspike" is not like "skirt", it does not tie the tape, it only uses a square cloth to wrap it on the head or only to bind it on the bun.
Jewelry.
Jewelry used by Hakka people in the past was more elaborate and varied, mainly on top ornaments. In ancient times, women wore "high bun" and ornaments usually had hairpins, hairs and ears.
In general, women wear earrings or earplugs and bracelets.
The bracelet has a new silk bracelet, a faucet bracelet, and a garlic bracelet. It is more silver, rich in gold and jade bracelet.
Men and women wear rings. They usually wear gold rings.
Necklaces are less worn and some are placed in boxes, usually less worn on the body.
Children usually wear silver bracelets, silver bracelets, and bracelet rings to string up a few small ringlets, so that children can be found by ringing the bell.
With the change of women's hairstyle, fewer jewelry is used.
At the end of Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Hakka women were changed from "Gao bun" to "Panlong" (commonly known as "round head"), which was much easier to dress.
Other accessories were also omitted.
Later, they changed their makeup. Women cut their hair short. They didn't have to comb their hair.
Bracelets and rings are less worn, but earrings or earplugs are also needed.
The rain gear of Hakka people is mainly umbrella, bamboo hat, hat, straw hat, raincoat and raincoat.
Umbrellas.
Commonly known as "shading", there are two kinds of umbrellas and umbrellas.
Paper umbrellas are made of bamboo, covered with gauze paper and painted with tung.
Cloth umbrella, with iron wood (or pure iron) structure, cloth monk, long handle, short handle two kinds.
In the past, the use of paper umbrellas was often used. Umbrella has been used in modern times. In recent decades, paper umbrellas are rare and almost completely replaced by umbrellas.
Over the past more than 10 years, nylon umbrellas have been used mostly, umbrellas and umbrella umbrellas are also used.
Bamboo hat.
In the past, most of them were round and pointed. After the Republic of China, there was a round dome, which began to be called "Tong Jun Li".
A hat.
It is unique to Hakka women.
There are two kinds, one is weaving a circle with bamboo strips, perforating in the middle, sewing around the cloth, wearing a bun on the head, and inserting wool or bamboo slices on the bun to make the cap stable.
The other is sewing cloth around the bamboo hat.
The cloth is sparse, so that it can be ventilated.
Why are Hakka women only wearing such a hat?
Historically, women were not allowed to show their faces. But Hakka women were forced by the environment. After moving south, they had to go out with men to work. They went up to the mountains and went down to the fields. They were forced to show their faces.
It is like a veil. It can see others clearly, while others can not see their faces clearly.
This is the main reason.
Another reason is that this kind of hat is cool and light.
Because of the above two advantages, Hakka women have been handed down from generation to generation.
Nowadays Hakka women are still popular in southwest Fujian and Guangzhou suburbs and Huizhou two zones.
In the suburbs of Guangzhou, the popular pattern is the circular woven hat, which is the same as the hat worn by Xing Mei women in the past, because they are mostly migrated from ancient Jiaying prefecture (today's Meizhou), and Hakka women in southwest Fujian are mostly wearing bamboo hat and cloth type hat.
In the counties of Meizhou, no one wore a hat.
Straw hat.
It is a hat with a straw hat woven by straw, so it is called straw hat.
It is mainly used to cover the sun on sunny days, rainy days are not applicable, and straw hat is easily moldy after being drenched.
This straw hat is still in fashion today.
In the afternoon, there were foreign straw hat made of nylon yarn and cloth, but mostly for the urban people, and the countryside was not popular.
There are two kinds of coir garments, which are made of brown hair and put on their backs, which can keep the wind and rain warm, and the other is made of bamboo leaves on the mountain. The advantages are lighter, but not as durable and warm as brown coir.
Raincoat.
It used to be made of casual tung oil paper, and then made of thin plastic rain cloth.
In recent decades, raincoats made of nylon and plastic cloth (paper) are widely used. This kind of raincoat is light and comfortable, and it is very popular soon.
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