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Paris Men'S Wear Week 2012/2013 Autumn Winter Series: Luxury World

2012/2/21 15:21:00 29

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Who has the power? Who is losing it? This is an international problem. This season, Stefano Pilati (Stefano Pilati) shows the latest series of Eve Szentloran (Yves Saint Laurent) focusing on strength. fashion Friendly Maid: sex and money. Pilati tried to make his theme and the Latest fashion The tradition of the house is intertwined. Back to the days of sexual secret rule, according to Pilati, it is more powerful than money. There is no more underground rule now, but there are still photos taken by St. Laurent in the 70s of last century as evidence that this look and feel are invading into his black coat. So this is the inspiration of the leather series.
　　

Yves Saint Laurent sex and money

The environment he created was the place where sex and money came into play - the art world. A huge blackboard background is actually a text filled with dirt by Andy Warhol. The sound of the ESD scanner in background music is discussed with the artist and collector Sam Wagstaff. The style of Robert Mapplethorpe, a friend of Vargas, slowly hinted into the show.

　　

Luxury world

Half of the series has definite military influence, such as sailors' short coat and cavalry coat, some with gorgeous. Leather and fur Decoration and double row buttons jacket. In this case, these styles become the common language of rich men's clothing, but Pilati uses black leather to distort his authority and the power of sexual worship. He began to use leather trimming, lapel, collar, and quilted shoulders, T-shirts and vests. Now money may have the most say, but Pilati will drown it with sex. In a motorcycle jacket, Robert Mapplethorpe's self timer set the tone for this. The key details are the retaining rings and suspenders. Shoes are fitted into metal sleeves. If you take a picture of Thorpe wearing a picture of meppels, you will see how inappropriate he is. The theme of the razor blade (another muple Thorpe element) sweater presents a sinister subtext: uncover the appearance of a threatening contour. {page_break}

　　

Hermes similar password

The series can be regarded as a dull reflection of the accusation of animal protectors, because the show shows a Black Crocodile Leather Biker Jacket or a black leather suit, but Veronica Nishania (Veronique Nichanian) insists on the strong, subtle and sexy men's wear brand of Hermes, and its creation does not match her latest product expectations. Lisa Janeane has successfully deconstructed the middle class clothing code and positioned it in a luxurious dress that attracted attention and slowly entered. The shoes are not fitted with socks or have no ties. However, Lisa Janeane had regressed a bit of a feeling of being picky.

　　

Luxury world

Very simply, the darkness and sobriety of the costume did not give the show an additional selling point. One of the themes of the series is "similarity". Things may not always be what they look like. Perhaps this means that the suit that has the luster of Ma Haimao is actually cut from wool cotton blended fabric. In this case, similar appearance is not entirely a dynamic concept that can promote the whole situation. It displays better in a showroom.

But ultimately, such reservations are totally meaningless. After all, Hermes's series has always been one of the series of intimate relationships between clothing and consumers, especially when they come into stores next season. {page_break}

　　

Berluti dream of revival

Creative director Alessandro Sartori (Alessandro Sartori) said, "this is my dream." Because the guest he invited entered the wardrobe in the entrance of the art school. You came out of the other side and entered the caves of the building, which has been rebuilt into the world of Berluti. It is made up of five slightly surreal stage models, making the 117 year old shoe brand's first ready-made garment series eye-catching. The spectators on the little golden chair are sitting tight, those shoes, or the same thing that belonged to Berluti customers in the past, from Dean Martin and Eve Szentloran to Roman Polanski and Gerard Depardieu. Andy Warhol's shoes are proudly located in the front row. Sartori said, "they are watching and judging me."

　　

Luxury world

Go through the wardrobe and enter a dream world of conceit. There is no lion or witch in Sarto's dream, but he must try to bring magic. "I want humanity. I want my hands." He said as if he was touching the cashmere suit. In fact, every garment in the series, from suits to sportswear, is hand sewn in Turin, Italy. Sarto called it sculpture fashion. The concept of carving is absolutely suitable for the outline of a garment, long and thin, with a structural Naples shoulder. The fashion elements are obvious in detail, large to luxurious fabrics, and small to the leather buttonholes.

Berluti is famous for hand-made shoes. In Sarto, the tradition is updated, not only shoes, but also hand-made motorcycle jackets and a full range of leather accessories. The revival of the company was under the supervision of Antoine Arno.

LVMH group has set up a series of luxury men's wear series in the market and has incorporated Berluti into a part of the group planning. Recognizing that the brand's potential and vision take time, the group hired Sarto of ZZegna to achieve it. Sarto said enthusiastically, "it's not difficult. This is love. " In the future, people must wait and see.