Contemporary Version Of "Pao Ding Jie Niu" Interpretation Of Clothing Pattern Teacher

To paint a picture without a cow

The pattern designer is based on the requirements of the style and size of the prefabricated garment pattern or sample. clothing The proportion of parts and components on paper. It is the product of the brand development of garments separated from tailors. It was born in Hongkong in the 80s of last century. It has become an indispensable high-tech talent in the independent brand clothing factory.

Why do we call paper pattern teachers the contemporary "Pao Ding"? After seeing their work, they will understand. In the pattern shop of Nanchong Shuncheng Textile Co., Ltd., the reporter watched the "performance" of Feng Shengyong, the pattern writer. Drawing the pattern and calling the board, Feng Shengyong did what he wanted to do on the same day. The first step was to figure out the structure and technology of the parts of the clothes, and to use the calculator to actuate the sizes of the components. After observing and calculating, Feng Shengyong only began to pick up the pen after half an hour. There is no draft nor pre tracing on the paper, but Feng Shengyong is perfectly prepared, and the short and smooth friction between the paper and the pen announces the refreshing and sharp writing. The three length from short to the ruler is the only auxiliary tool, but the curve can be skillfully completed with the ruler in Feng Shengyong's skilled skill, and the eraser has hardly been touched. If the beginner needs a variety of complicated tools, such as triangle board, protractor, curve ruler and so on.

There is no high gloss shadow in the sketch, nor does it have complicated colors to whitewash. Only the simple lines make the clothes form on the paper. zipper The buttonholes, wrinkles and so on are also marked with a fixed mark. The sample will be displayed in the same shape on the pattern. Just when the reporter thought that the work was finished, Feng Shengyong began to split the boards again. According to him, for a garment to play board, besides the overall effect of the first piece, it also needs a number of drawings of various parts of the garment, which are large enough to cover the whole belly and small cuffs. Each piece of paper is called "cut piece". If the garment is compared to the car, the cutting pieces are the molds that form the parts of the car. The pattern maker creates the mold and then leaves the tailor to "plate cutting", and finally enters the mass production line.

Like a hundred pieces of "parts", like "Pao Ding Jie Niu", a pattern maker has to "lose the cow". The accurate split of all parts of the clothes and the plan are the ability that the pattern maker must have. These abilities should not only be exercised in countless dozen boards, but also be familiar with the needs of the other links in the production line. "Now a piece of clothing is" countless pieces of parts "in our eyes, otherwise it will not be able to start when it hits the board.

"Quick work" and "fine work"

As the saying goes, "slow work makes fine work". Pattern designer In a row, it doesn't work. "Fine work" is naturally understandable, because any errors in the playing board will cause greater economic losses after entering the next stage. For example, the fine size errors of the cutting piece will result in the invalidation of a large number of tailored fabrics, or the withdrawal of the finished garments.

Feng Shengyong, 37, began studying patterns in coastal enterprises in 1993. He also experienced many mistakes in his initial stage. On the other hand, "time is money and efficiency is life". Clothing factories are mostly "one person playing boards and thousands of people making clothes". Too slow playing boards will become a "bottleneck" on the production line. Delays in working hours affect the production schedule of orders, thereby affecting the efficiency and reputation of factories. For a piece of clothing, there are fewer pieces, more than a hundred, and hundreds of times, and seek for perfection and speed.

Before the production of a set of patterns plus Colonel pairs and modifications, Feng Shengyong averaged 1 to 2 days, and now it has been "able to run smoothly" on an average of only 2 hours and 30 minutes. Feng Shengyong, who is a lathe operator, is familiar with every aspect of the garment production line and is the most suitable person for the pattern designer. Although Nanchong's secondary vocational schools have trained a lot of professionals, but because the current local garment manufacturing industry is mostly OEM, it is impossible to "retain" the pattern designer who only exists in the independent brand clothing factory. Two years ago, Feng Shengyong was paid high salary by the employing unit to return to Nanchong to serve the home garment industry, and became one of the few professional pattern designers in Nanchong.