32 Clothing Brands Avoid Pollution Problems

Wang Jingjing, deputy director of the public environment research center, told the Securities Daily reporter that he hoped that famous brands at home and abroad could urge suppliers with irregular records to change the pollution of the environment and prevent the emergence of "poisonous apples" in the textile industry.

At present, the water pollution problem in the textile industry is widely concerned by the market. The Research Report of the relevant environmental organizations has begun to be taken seriously by the public.

In April 9th, friends of nature, the public environmental research center, Dahl asked, environmental technology group, Nanjing green stone and other 5 environmental protection organizations jointly issued the Research Report on "cleaning the green supply chain pollution for green fashion" in Beijing. The report pointed out that 48 well-known domestic and foreign clothing brands in China are all referred to as serious environmental pollution.

In addition, last year, environmental protection organization Greenpeace also issued the "fashion pollution - global clothing brand China water pollution survey". In the survey report, two suppliers of toxic and harmful substances were supplied with many well-known brands, including Adidas, H&M, Lacoste, Lining, Metersbonwe, Nike, Puma, etc.

Yesterday, "Securities Daily" reporter interviewed the United States. Clothes & Accessories Han Zhongwei, deputy director of the environmental protection organization, called for the pollution of the brand. He believed that the main business of the company was brand retailing, and there was no manufacturer, so there was no environmental pollution problem.

For this answer, Li Yifang, director of the green peace pollution control project of another environmental protection organization, does not agree with her. She told reporters that "this gesture of American state dress is irresponsible." She believes that branding providers have a great impact on suppliers. As brands, they should be fully aware of their social responsibilities for environmental pollution.

　　 32 brands did not respond to survey

According to the Research Report of "green choice textile brand supply chain pollution", which has been completed for 9 months by the above 5 environmental protection organizations, a large number of textile brands and garment retailers have serious environmental violations in China's supply chain, which has a serious impact on China's water environment.

　　 Textile industry It is one of the largest sources of water pollution in China. Its wastewater discharge intensity is high, and the reuse water rate is very low. China's textile and garment exports account for more than 30% of the global market, and the impact of the textile industry on the environment is enormous. Dyeing and finishing wastewater accounts for about 80% of the textile industry wastewater, and about 12% of chemical fiber production wastewater. In addition, 8% of other textile waste water (2004 industry estimation data). The total amount of dyeing and finishing wastewater in 5 provinces of Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Shandong, Guangdong and Fujian accounts for 90% of the total amount of dyeing and finishing wastewater discharge in China.

According to the survey, there are more than 6000 textile enterprises in China's pollution map database, some of which are punished or not dealt with within a time limit because of private pipelines, sewage straight rows, abnormal sewage treatment facilities, and excessive emission of pollutants. In these enterprises, there are many suppliers of large international and domestic brands.

According to Wang Jingjing, deputy director of the public environmental research center, we sent letters to 48 enterprises, but 32 enterprises did not respond. It is understood that Brand Company did not respond to Marks&Spencer, Esprit, CalvinKlein, Armani, Carrefour and other international brands, including 360 degrees, Anta, YOUNGOR and other domestic well-known brands.

Although Wang Jingjing expressed regret for such a small response, some well-known Brand Company responded positively. "Today, Lining, a well-known brand in the country, responded by telephone that we would investigate the supplier and rectify the defective suppliers." Wang Jingjing told reporters more gratified.

According to Wang Jingjing, more than 30 enterprises have begun to compare the list of suppliers with the list of violations announced by environmental protection organizations after years of efforts. This is a good start.

　　 Should branding be responsible for water pollution?

Ma Jun, director of the public environment research center, said publicly that some brands had been very inconsistent with social supervision. "We saw some environmental problems in the suspected suppliers of Zara. After the letter was sent, we received a reply from Zara, but wrote," we regret that we can not answer the individual's response to our business model from schools, universities and professionals. " Ma Jun said.

From the Zara's evasive answer, we can see that the company does not want to answer the company's responsibility for environmental pollution. Regarding this, the director of green peace pollution prevention project Li Yi direction told reporters that Zara, as an internationally famous brand, has already recognized its responsibility for environmental pollution.

In addition, compared with the evasion of Zara, Han Zhongwei, managing director of the Metersbonwe brand, the United States and the State Council, has completely rejected the fact that the matter has nothing to do with the company. He said that the company's main business is brand retailing, and there is no manufacturer, so the company does not have environmental pollution problems. Finally, he advises reporters to interview manufacturers.

When reporters asked Han Zhongwei about suppliers, he said that there were hundreds of suppliers in the United States, and there were corresponding management measures. "The company has a whole set of supplier selection criteria, of which there must be environmental standards." Han Zhongwei said.

Han Zhongwei, director of the green peace pollution prevention and control project, did not agree with the answer of Miss Smith, the manager of the United States, and she told reporters that "this gesture of the state of the United States and the state of the state is irresponsible". "Li Yifang" She believes that branding providers have a great impact on suppliers. As brands, they should be fully aware of their social responsibilities for environmental pollution.

Some analysts told reporters that frequent environmental pollution problems, largely due to inadequate supervision by government departments, also showed that the textile enterprises did not assume their due social responsibilities.

It is understood that green peace in last year's investigation found that the pollution of toxic chemicals to environmental pollution can be carried with toxic clothing to consumers' living areas.

"Last year, 78 clothing samples from 10 countries around the world were sampled, of which 2/3 samples of clothing were toxic and hazardous residues." "We have detected a chemical residue called NPC, and found that when washing clothes, this substance will transform into a highly toxic substance named NP, which will affect the living environment of consumers," Li Yi told reporters.

From above, we can see that the toxicity of toxic chemicals is not complete, and whether other residues will affect consumers will be further studied. But from the above results, who else would like to wear a poisonous garment?

　　 Branding providers should say "no" to illegal suppliers.

"There are many famous brands in the world that do not have their own manufacturing plants, and they rely on outsourcing for production." Li one direction reporter said. Then, after outsourcing, does the brand need to be responsible for it? "Yes!" this is Li's answer.

Li Yifang believes that brand has the most control over clothing production. "Branding has great influence on suppliers." This is the conclusion of Li Fang's discussions with a number of brands and suppliers.

Wang Jingjing, deputy director of the public environment research center, also told reporters that in the previous research, many brands did not have manufacturers, and production was outsourced to suppliers, but brand enterprises were involved in larger ones. Besides, big brands claim that their products are green products, but can they guarantee that the products supplied by suppliers are really green products? If not, they are irresponsible to consumers.

It is understood that the textile industry water pollution occurs mainly in two procedures, namely printing and dyeing and finishing procedures. In fact, it is mainly for the supplier to choose toxic chemicals to save costs.

Wang Jingjing told reporters: "as a large buyer, the brand association reduces the price, which causes the supplier to use toxic chemicals to save costs." She said that brands only focus on price and quality, which is at the expense of environmental pollution.

It is understood that although there are alternatives to some toxic chemical industry, but the cost will increase. If the brand can give a grace to the price, then, at the request of the brand, the supplier will also reduce the pollution. "Brand operators can supervise suppliers through order pressure." Wang Jingjing said.

Li Yifang suggested that branding should only work with responsible suppliers. "If a large brand does not require pollution from suppliers, if the pollution problem arises, it will have a great impact on the brand itself."

Zhu Qinghua, a light industry researcher at CIC, believes that the pollution problem is a link in the apparel industry chain. Therefore, the impact of clothing listed companies is inevitable. The main response is brand influence and cost control.

In fact, international environmental protection organizations have provided suggestions for energy conservation and water conservation. If they can be implemented, suppliers will achieve a win-win situation of environmental protection and profitability.

According to Wang Jingjing, "once the supplier has achieved the effect of electricity saving, water saving and coal saving through reusing water, it will enable suppliers to achieve a win-win environment and economy after rectification."

　 Creating pollution prevention power

Data show that China's 2/3 cities are facing a shortage of water resources, while limited water resources are being destroyed by sewage discharged. Ma Jun, the founder of "water pollution map of China", said: "the motive force for creating water pollution control is a pressing matter of the moment."

So, how can we create the power of water pollution prevention and control? Wang Jingjing believes that the relevant policies and consumer supervision will play a role in promoting. Branding is also an important part of promoting environmental protection.

Environmental protection organizations wrote in the survey report: "for retailers and brands, identifying the relevant factories in their supply chain and observing environmental laws and regulations as a necessary condition for business transactions with factories is extremely important. In addition, retailers and branding firms should also formulate an overall supply chain policy that rewards environmental performance. Suppliers who exceed basic standard requirements provide incentives for continuous progress in the whole industry.

Zhu Qinghua, a light industry researcher at CIC, believes that strengthening supervision, expanding information disclosure, and using market-oriented means to guide enterprises to move towards energy saving and environmental protection are more critical.

In recent years, China's public awareness of the environment has generally been raised, and more regulatory information has been disclosed by government departments. Based on this, more than 97000 records of corporate environmental violations have been collected on the Chinese pollution map.

According to Li Yifang, at the end of last year, the Ministry of environmental protection has just issued a "registration method for environmental management of hazardous chemicals", which is a public consultation draft, including industry, experts, environmental protection organizations, etc., can make suggestions. This year, a blacklist of dangerous chemicals is likely to be drawn up.

Another brand spokesman told reporters that the company had been concerned about water pollution, and that the fabric should be tested accordingly. "It is best to indicate the use of chemicals."