Three Questions Of Haining Leather Industry, Three Problems

On the 27 day, No. 18, the Bund, Shanghai, a designer shop named "Zhang Sifeng" is in the process of intense preparations. Its neighbors are world-class brands such as Patek Philippe and Cartire.

On the same night, the annual drama "the happy life of the embarrassing man" was broadcast in Jiangsu satellite TV, and the leather garments produced by his company were displayed in the play. Zhu Weiming, general manager of Zhejiang anti Leather Co. Ltd., was very proud of himself.

stay Haining leather In the twenty-first cabin of the fashion center, designer Wu Xuanqiang is sitting up all night to sample clothes. The upcoming brand press conference needs more new designs.

However, if time goes back, the situation is quite different: 15 years ago, when Zhang Sifeng came to Haining with "a design head", the design of the desert made him feel hesitant. 13 years ago, Zhu Weiming, who thought he had great design talent, was still working in the leather factory. 5 years ago, Wu Xuanqiang, who failed in his pioneering work, came to Haining in confusion.

Correspondingly, the Haining leather industry, which carries the fate of the three designers, is experiencing three painful interrogation: how can we break through the "billion bottleneck" after the "ten billion threshold" from scratch? How can we break through the vicious circle of low price homogeneous competition and solve the cost pressure? How can the traditional manufacturing industry achieve sustained vitality?

The three self questioning brought about the three metamorphosis of the leather industry and brought three different designers a totally different life experience.

Question 1: how to break through the "10 billion bottleneck"?

From "buy design" to "sell design"

Wu Xuanqiang clearly remembered that he came to Haining after the heavy snowfall in 2008. Due to the warm winter that lasted for two years, the down jacket enterprise he founded in Changshu lost all of his money. With only 300 yuan in his pocket, he decided to try his luck in Haining.

At that time, the trend of leather fashion that had just started in Haining made Wu Xuanqiang lucky. "Entrepreneurs began to attach importance to design, but few enterprises have their own designers, so there is a great demand for design drawings. About 80% of leather companies bought my designs. Wu Xuanqiang told reporters that in the next year, he had a revenue of 2.3 million yuan.

With these accumulations, in 2009, Wu Xuanqiang began to change from simple drawing design to sample design, and the change of thought also changed hundreds of Yuan's design into a garment worth tens of thousands of yuan.

Leather industry's transformation and development demand for design has accumulated funds and accumulated connections for Wu Xuanqiang. The platform built by Haining leather city provides an opportunity for Wu Xuanqiang to start his own business again.

On the edge of the leather city of Haining, there is a crooked and elegant river. 28 design chic wooden houses are interspersed. This is the "designer corridor" specially established by Haining leather city. Each cabin is an excellent leather clothing designer or studio of the Design Institute, which is provided free of charge by leather city to attract excellent design talents. Wu Xuanqiang's studio is the twenty-first cabin, and his "password 21" leather clothing design center is among them.

With the help of this design and development center, Wu Xuanqiang founded his own business last year, Haining flying snow Garments Co., Ltd.

The leather city of Haining, founded in 1994, took 10 years to form "billions of millions of industries". But due to the seasonal and regional characteristics of leather garments, Haining leather industry, which has crossed the "10 billion threshold", has encountered the "growth ceiling". How to break through the "10 billion bottleneck"?

"Haining has about 30 million leather garments per year. If there are 1/5 fur coats every year, it will cost more than 200 yuan per piece for the fashion design route and 1 billion 200 million yuan per year." This is the arithmetic problem of chairman of Haining Leather City Limited by Share Ltd.

Why can each fur coat be sold for more than 200 yuan?

The breakthrough of "billions of bottlenecks" has been found. However, a small town like Haining wants to develop excellent designers by itself.

The first thing that Ren thinks is to create an environment and "build a nest to attract Phoenix". In 2008, although the financial crisis was raging, the leather city of Haining produced 600 million yuan of funds, built over 200 thousand square meters, and had 72 enterprises alone. It is the first business district in China to upgrade and upgrade the industry. It provides a platform for "leather separation and brand operation" for the leather enterprises that focus on design and development. At present, the "72 tenants" have basically arrived, and the fashion center has been established as the "provincial characteristic industrial design demonstration base" last year.

And at the edge of the fashion center, 28 small wooden houses became free studios from designers all over the country, attracting the Wu Xuanqiang of "selling design" to realize their dreams.

From the establishment of the brand fashion center to the "dermis logo Cup" design competition, the China Leather Fashion Week and the CCTV fashion trend conference in China, in just a few years, various activities and platforms for the whole country and even the world designers have been launched. The leather industry of Haining has begun to accumulate its own design energy: 5 years ago, fewer than 100 designers in Haining, and few enterprises have design talents. Now, the designers of Haining have reached more than 2000 people, and there are no less than 200 leather designers in Haining.

The upgrading of the design force made the Haining leather industry from "buy design" into the new era of "selling design": Haining fur coat, which had been long "near the big brand", now attracted the international big brands such as Armani, CK, BOSS to buy design and sample clothing. Leather clothing has been replaced by leather fashion, the fashion added value of Haining fur clothing has gone from nothing to 20%; in 2011, the output value of Haining leather reached about 21000000000 Yuan. {page_break}

Question two: how to dissolve the cost pressure?

From OEM to licensing

In 2005, Zhu Weiming launched his own brand "NATURAL GIFT" (NG), which is translated as "natural gift". At the same time, it has another meaning: coming back and growing. This also confirms Zhu Weiming's entrepreneurial path.

In the late 90s of last century, Haining leather enterprises were unhappy because of the long-term homogenization and low price competition. At this time, Zhu Weiming was only a wage earner in his uncle's leather goods factory. In that crisis, his uncle's factory was also on the verge of collapse. Zhu Weiming borrowed 100 thousand yuan to persuade his uncle to give the factory to himself.

Out of love and talent for fashion design, Zhu Weiming spent nearly 2 million yuan to invest in himself. He went to China Academy of fine arts for further education, to Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts, and even went to the Saint Martin Institute of art in England. The result of his learning is that he brought back a series of avant-garde leather clothing. But what makes him entangled is that he is unable to realize his own design concept.

"We must have our own brand and realize our own design concept." With a little idealism, Zhu Weiming decided to create his own brand. Thus, "NG" was born.

Today, Zhu Weiming, who is the two employer of the boss and designer, is building a banner of his own brand in the leather clothing industry of Haining. He firmly believes that if he insists on making a brand in 30 years, he will surely gain something.

Haining has more than 2000 leather enterprises. Under the pressure of rising prices of raw materials and rising labor costs, leather enterprises staying in the OEM (OEM) link have less and less space for existence. Homogenization and low price competition become the only choice for many enterprises. Haining leather industry, which is deeply involved in vicious competition, has been deeply hurt, and even once became synonymous with "inferior fur".

How to get out of this vicious circle and crack down on cost pressures?

"More than 2000 enterprises, if they are done on behalf of the processing, do not take the road of brand, and finally can only kill each other." Ren has told reporters that it is based on this understanding that in the past 5 years, Haining leather's brand strategy has achieved remarkable results. "5 years ago, 80% of the enterprises in Haining made OEM and only 20% of their own brands. Today, this ratio is reversed to 4:6."

Reporters learned that as of the end of 2011, the leather industry in Haining has 4 well-known trademarks in China and 2 famous brand products in China. Last year, Zhejiang leather industry has been selected as the first batch of regional brand experiments in Jiangsu Province, and has become the most concentrated brand in the leather industry.

As the leading city of leather industry in Haining, Haining leather city of China has achieved a higher level upgrade from licensing to brand export. Sichuan Chengdu, Henan Xinxiang, Jiangsu Shuyang, Northeast Tong Er Bao 4 leather chains chain market quietly rose, and the output of leather city brand has brought about a substantial increase in company revenue. Last year, the company's operating income increased by 82.03% compared to the same period last year, and its profit grew 131.48% year-on-year. More importantly, many Haining leather brands also follow the footsteps of leather city.

The creation of brand also provides impetus for the sustainable development of leather industry. This year, under the background of downward pressure on many industries, the leather industry in Haining has continued to grow. The total industrial output value of the industry reached 3 billion 623 million yuan from 1 to May, an increase of 3.7% over the same period last year.

Question three: how does industrial vitality continue?

From manufacturing to fashion

1997, China Academy of Fine Arts Clothing design Zhang Sifeng, a professional graduated from Wenzhou, came to Haining with all his heart. He never thought that he was the first designer on the land, but "the first" was not good.

At that time, fur clothing was not sold at all, but the style was basically imitation. Zhang Sifeng ran more than 20 businesses, and no company accepted his design. In 2000, a Taiwan businessman came to his personal studio and found many personality and fashionable design clothes stacked in the storehouse. He told him to take a batch of sample clothes to trial sale in Shanghai. Then the order is coming. In order to give full play to his design concept, Zhang Sifeng set up his own leather factory.

In 2003, Zhang Sifeng opened the store to the leather city. His fashionable leather coat costs less than half of his colleagues and the price is twice as high. This living case has surrounded the entrepreneurs to see the power of fashion.

After years of efforts, as the president of the Haining leather Designers Association, Zhang Sifeng has become a well-known designer of leather products in China, and has created a high-end leather brand named after his name.

An industry that has been carrying the strength of 1/4 county economy. When the neighboring cities of Yuyao and Tongxiang have built similar fur or leather market, how can they achieve sustained vitality in the face of increasingly fierce regional competition pattern?

"It is easy to build a leather city, but it is difficult to make leather city a vane of leather and fashion industry." In terms of the law, this difficulty means that the leather industry in Haining has an irreplaceable competitiveness.

The competitiveness began 5 years ago. At that time, he decided to change the slogan "leather fashion and tide up Haining" into "I look at the world and fashion to see me".

However, it is difficult for a small county town to become fashionable. In 2008, when the first China Leather Fashion Week was held, only 7 enterprises were involved.

No designer, no independent brand, and no understanding of fashion publishing. But it is precisely under this "three no" background that the Haining people who can "create nothing" make the traditional leather industry into a fashion industry with the tenacity of "making a mountain out of a molehill": go to the whole country to fashion leather fashion, go to CCTV to run leather design competition, and go global marketing leather fashion week.

In a step by step accumulation, Haining leather began to emit more and more fashionable breath. On the fifth leather fashion week just ended, 28 leather and fur brand nearly 2000 sets of fashion were released, attracting 20 thousand professional spectators and buyers from all over the world. Leather fashion week has become the only high-end professional fashion activity for leather and fur garments in China. It is not only a domestic brand, but also a foreign brand. Vice president of China Fashion Designers Association and professor of The China Academy of Art Hai Yan Wu This is exactly how China's leather fashion Zhou Zheng is becoming increasingly integrated with the international market.

If Zhang Sifeng is the forerunner of Haining leather industry in pursuit of fashion, the leather industry in Haining, which is supported by design capability and independent brand, has also quietly transformed into a fashion industry, which has made the traditional manufacturing industry obtain a long life.