Chinese Ethnic Costume Culture -- Baoan Ethnic Costume Culture

Baoan nationality is a minority with a small population in China. It mainly lives in Jishishan Bao'an Dongxiang Salar Autonomous County, Gansu Province, and a minority lives in Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture, Gansu Province and Xunhua County, Qinghai Province. Baoan is a self styled name derived from the place name. Baoan people were originally Mongols who came from the east with the "pro army from the Western Regions" after the 13th century. They believed in Islam, first stationed troops in Tongren, Qinghai to cultivate livestock, and gradually formed through long-term exchanges and intermarriage with local Hui, Dongxiang, Salar, Tibetan, Han and other ethnic groups. In the past, people called it "Baoan Hui" because they believed in Islam and had similar customs with the local Hui. In 1950, according to the wishes of the nation, it was named Baoan. According to its internal legends, language characteristics and some living customs similar to that of the Mongols, it can be inferred that the Baoan nationality is gradually formed by a part of the Mongols who believe in Islam living in Tongren, Qinghai Province since the Yuan and Ming dynasties, and by long-term exchanges with the Hui, Han, Tibetan, Turkish and other nationalities living around. The Baoan nationality has a population of more than 12200. They have their own language but no written language. The Baoan language belongs to the Mongolian language family of the Altaic language family. Most people are familiar with Chinese.

The Baoan nationality area is located in the southwest of Gansu, bordering Linxia County in the southeast, Xunhua Salar Autonomous County in Qinghai Province in the west, facing Minhe County across the river in Qinghai Province in the north, and Yongjing County in the northeast, bounded by the Yellow River, is located at the foot of the towering Jishi Mountain and on the bank of the upper reaches of the Yellow River. The water and grass are fertile and suitable for agriculture and animal husbandry. Baoan ethnic group is mainly engaged in agricultural production, and also engaged in animal husbandry and handicraft industry.

　　 tradition Clothes & Accessories

Men wear large crotch pants with wide legs. The upper part of the body wears a shirt, and the coat is a long gown, named Roula, like a Tibetan robe. The gown is made of clip on cloth or high-grade velveteen, velvet, or fur lining. The fabric colors are generally dark green, blue and purple red. The robe is three feet three inches long to three feet five inches small. Over knee, slightly shorter than Tibetan robe. The shoulder is one foot five inches wide, and the cuff is six inches wide, both of which are smaller than Tibetan robes. Purple, red and plaid selvage with different width along the cuff. A small belt that is the same or different from the robe is tied outside the right slanted lower lapel as an ornament. It can also be used to buckle clothes. The outer waist of the robe is tied with red, blue, green, pink and other silk ribbons, which are about ten feet long and six inches to one foot wide. After three circles around the waist, hang a foot. What kind of brocade security waist knife is hung on the waist. In winter, wear lapels, large lapels, tight jackets, and feet Boots Heluoti (made of cowhide, with folds around it and grass, wool, etc. for heating). According to the old people, this dress has been popular for more than 400 years, and it was still worn until the 1950s and 1960s. {page_break}

The traditional hats of Baoan men are big brimmed hats (similar to Tibetan hats) and "bugles". "Horn" is a round hat with black cloth top and blue cloth edge. The feet shall wear long leather boots or cloth shoes, cloth cotton shoes, cotton or linen socks, wool socks, etc.

Women's traditional dress is: the upper body is wearing a floral silk soft shirt with slanted lapels, and the coat is a gown or clip. The long robe is below the knee, with a large slanted front and a monk's collar. Long sleeves, embroidered at the sleeve edge and placket. Robes are either sandwiched or made of cotton or silk. It is generally cyan, blue, etc. The women's clip is divided into two types: the long clip is below the knee (about 2-5 inches~2-6 inches long), with a slanted large front, and a straight tube shaped waist. Embroider lace or wrap blue cloth edge at the placket. Some parts of the chest are embroidered, mostly in blue and black cloth, with round collar. Girls and daughter-in-law can wear it. Older people should wear plain clothes without round collar. The short clip clip is from two feet two inches to two feet three inches long, reaching to the abdomen. It is also made of black cloth, lace, embroidery, and round neck. They are mostly worn by young women. The long and short clips are sleeveless. Women wear large crotch pants on the lower body. The crotch is eight inches wide. The pants are generally two feet seven inches to two feet eight inches long, and the legs are seven to eight inches wide. There are floral trouser waist, which can be worn by girls and daughter-in-law. Older women usually wear black pants, and large crotch pants are usually sandwiched or cotton ones. When working in the kitchen or doing farm work, Baoan women also have the habit of wearing a belly apron, which is also exquisite and compact. Embroidery on it is not only a practical item for clothing protection, but also an ornament.

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The traditional head wear of Baoan women is divided into girls and daughter-in-law. Girls like to wear "humble hats" (hats with crumpled edges), which are round, domed and made of cloth. It is usually light blue and pink, and the left side of the hat is decorated with a peony pattern and two silk spikes. After wearing it, it is elegant and generous, and has the style of ancient nomads. There is also a kind of cloth or satin belt called "mina", which is mostly red or pink. The belt is narrow and round in the middle and wider at both ends. Surrounded on the head, just above the head and forehead. Embroidery, butterfly and other patterns on the belt are inlaid with black silk thread. There is also a green silk ribbon on both ends, about one foot long. "Mina" looks simple, simple and beautiful when worn on the head. Married women are usually covered with cloth, which is generally black, and most of them are covered with black, dark green or apple green silk yarn. The side length of the cap is about two feet five inches. After wearing it, the front covers both cheeks and neck, exposing only the face, and the back covers the whole back chest. Baoan women also like to arrange flowers on their heads. Girls' heads are up and women's heads are down. {page_break}

Young women often wear embroidered shoes on their feet, which are made of cloth soles, uppers and clips, mostly red and green. Older women tend to wear black embroidered shoes with round mouth and low top, and cotton shoes with low top and cloth cotton are mostly black in winter.

The ornaments of Baoan women are mostly made of silver, jade and gold. They wear bracelets on their wrists, rings on their fingers, and earrings and eardrops on their ears in different shapes. At the wedding ceremony, women used to wear silver "head gauge", flower arrangement and "emerald bone flower" on their heads. The "head gauge" is a pure silver ornament with dragon, phoenix and peony patterns. When a woman wears it, it is shining silver and extremely luxurious. "Cuiguduo" is a silver ornament with jade beads on its head, which is more beautiful and elegant.

　　 Modern clothing

The costumes of the Baoan ethnic group have not changed much in the early days and now. After moving from Tongren County, Qinghai Province to Dahejia District, Jishishan County, Gansu Province during the Tongzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, the people of Baoan ethnic group and the Hui, Salar, Dongxiang and other ethnic groups living in Linxia were greatly affected by the local Hui and other brotherly ethnic groups. Modern costumes are not much different from the Hui nationality. Men of Baoan ethnic group usually wear white "hat" (white brimless hat), white sweat girdle on the upper body, and blue jacket clip; In case of festivals, they wear hats and long gowns with lapels and large lapels. The edge of the gown is edged with colorful cloth strips, silks, Pulu, etc. of different widths, and likes to wear long belts made of red, green, and blue silk, and then wear the famous waist knives such as "Shixiangjin", "Boriji", and "Jiandao" (the length generally ranges from full feet to five inches). The feet wear long riding boots, looking very powerful and smart. Young men are now wearing fashionable fashion and wearing leather shoes.

Among the women of the Baoan ethnic group, unmarried girls only wear two braids without headstock, and few wear green headstock, or self-made embroidered headless and dome brimmed hats (the left side of the round roll brimmed hat is sewn with silk flowers and hanging ears), looking lively and beautiful. Married women and middle-aged women like to wear a thread hat (dome) or white cloth hat woven of floral yarn (red, green, pink, white). Their hair was curled up and hidden under their hats to distinguish them from girls. Most of them wear silk, silk and cyan caps, which makes them look old and dignified. The women of Baoan ethnic group usually wear old style clothes with large front and "bucket clip" coat. Clothes and trousers are embroidered or edged with different silks and satins. The fabric is usually velveteen, corduroy or other cotton, woolen, blue and black wide pants or straight pants. In the event of a festival, women dress up very handsome, usually with apple green or pink tops and peach or purple pants. All women, old and young, wear gold and silver earrings, bracelets on their hands, and round mouth or partial embroidered shoes on their feet.

With the development of society, young girls and women nowadays also wear imitation "nurse hats" such as white or pink, like to wear colorful scarves, leave "bangs" on their forehead, wear fashionable suits of various colors, wear high-heeled leather shoes, and some wear lipstick, which makes them look different.

　　 Sort out stereotyped Baoan costumes

Although the traditional costumes of the Baoan nationality have their distinctive colors, exquisite workmanship, unique styles and unique features, they have lived together and communicated with Tibetan, Mongolian, Turkish, Hui and other ethnic groups for a long time, and their influence is not very prominent. Now it is difficult to identify the Baoan nationality from the costumes. Therefore, the county party committee and the county government decided to sort out and finalize the costumes of the Baoan nationality, carry forward the national culture, play the national card, "let the world know the Baoan nationality, let the Baoan nationality go to the world", revitalize the national economy, and promote national progress. In 2002, after nearly eight months, the working group established finally produced a batch of stereotyped costumes widely recognized by the cadres and the masses of the Baoan ethnic group through visiting and investigating, soliciting opinions, drawing stereotyped costume drawings, making samples, displaying samples for comments, and revising. These costumes were displayed in the Baoan ethnic group art festival, Linxia style tourism festival, and other festivals, It was widely praised by people and achieved good results.

The stereotyped costumes of Baoan nationality better reflect the religious, moral, values, historical Economics Cultural, folk, aesthetic, gender, age and other characteristics. The stereotyped clothing is divided into winter clothing, spring and autumn clothing and summer clothing for the male elderly, young adults and children, and winter clothing, spring and autumn clothing and summer clothing for the female elderly, young adults and children.

In terms of men's clothing, the focus is on "security cap", "soft pull", "body binding", "belt" and "boots". The "security number hat" with a white number hat and a star and moon pattern ribbon is not only a symbol of religious belief, but also one of national symbols. The simple white hat has become a symbol of belief in Islam, and has been well known by the public. The ribbons with stars and moons can be different from other ethnic groups who believe in Islam in headwear, and increase the aesthetic effect of "hat". "Roula" is the traditional clothing of the Baoan ethnic group, which is divided into two types: long and short. In winter, it is cotton, and in spring and autumn, it is sandwiched. It is also a distinctive garment. As far as the influence of geographical environment on clothing is concerned, China has a saying of "North Robe and South Skirt". The "Roula" is actually the "northern robe" with the characteristics of Baoan nationality. The long "Roula" is similar to the Mongolian robe and Tibetan robe, but there are differences, mainly because it is slightly shorter than the Mongolian robe and Tibetan robe, and its length is about 5 inches longer than the knee. Low collar, right lapel, cloth belt, no split. The edging is simple in color, smooth in line and rough in shape. Coupled with silk or embroidered belt, security waist knife, long boots, it is brave and rough, generous and unrestrained. The costumes, waist ornaments and pendants of "Roula", belts, boots and Bao'an waist knives reflect the geographical environment of Bao'an people living in the transitional zone between animal husbandry and agriculture, the characteristics of farming culture, the history of living together and communicating with Mongolian, Tibetan, Turkish and other ethnic groups, as well as the strong, brave, frank, tolerant, rough character and generous, unrestrained Powerful manly demeanor. The "body binding" is a very distinctive dress of the Baoan nationality. It looks like a horse clip but not like a horse clip. It can be called the Baoan nationality style horse clip. Its characteristics are generally the same as that of the horse clip, except that about three eighths of the front and lower parts are whole, embroidered, trimmed and made into pockets. The left side is fixed on the horse clip, and the right side is "tied" with a belt. {page_break} This kind of clothes is very practical. They are usually worn in spring, autumn and summer. It is said that in the past, knives and small stones were put in the pockets for self-defense. It also has aesthetic value. "Tie" on the abdomen just highlights the curve beauty of the human body. Moreover, exquisite embroidery, vivid and elegant patterns, unique borders and unique styles make this kind of clothing very attractive. This dress also shows the wisdom, dexterity and free creativity of the Baoan women, as well as their passionate feelings and rich imagination. Because of this, "body binding" has become a favorite clothing for men, women and children of the security guard. In women's clothing, the focus is on "Mia Na Gai Tou", "Rou", "Tie Body", "Embroidered Trousers" and "Embroidered Shoes". "Mi'na headscarf" is the combination of "Mi'na" and "headscarf". "Mi'na" is a distinctive headdress of Baoan girls. It is beautiful with embroidery and trim. The "hijab" is formed by the influence of Arab national costumes. In fact, it is a variety of women's masks and a symbol of women who believe in Islam. The organic combination of the two makes "Mina Gaitou" both a national symbol and a religious symbol. In addition, the exquisite patterns, edging and exquisite and elegant manufacturing of "Mina", together with the elegance of pink, water red, green and other gauze covers, well reflect the slim figure and graceful posture of women, giving people infinite beauty. "Softness" is a dress that fits the body and reflects the beautiful body curve of women. It is also embroidered with exquisite patterns and inlaid with gorgeous trimmings, which makes it beautiful and elegant. "Tie the body" can highlight the curve beauty of women, and it can be matched with embroidered and trimmed pants to embroider shoes And so on, which is a good expression of women's slim, straight, soft and charming. The rich colors, exquisite flower patterns, and bright decorations also reflect the rich inner world and beauty of Baoan women; It also shows the ingenuity and intelligence of Baoan women.

For the selection of embroidery patterns, plum blossom, bamboo, mountain peony, orchid, etc. are mainly selected. The plum blossom, which is full of pride, braves the cold and walks alone in early spring, symbolizes the suffering history, migration and harsh living environment of the Baoan people, and also shows the indomitable, brave, tough, uninhibited, rough and unconstrained character characteristics of the Baoan people. The four seasons are green, the posture is natural and unrestrained, the bamboo is flexible and unyielding, the leaves are green all the year round, stretching like a sword, the design is refined, and the fragrance is quiet. The orchids imply the dignity, self love, self-respect, upward mobility, simplicity, enthusiasm, easy-going and tolerant personality characteristics of the security people. The mountain peony symbolizes the geographical environment where people now live. At the intersection of the Qinghai Tibet Plateau and the Loess Plateau, agriculture is the main industry and animal husbandry is the secondary industry. The mountain peony in Manpo is bright red.

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