Recasting Geleshan Culture On The Characteristics Of Costume In The Republic Of China

1. Society during the Republic of China fashion Changes in

Because the society was in turmoil and disorder at that time, a large number of unsolvable social problems emerged in this period. We need to understand some social problems, and we need to use historical methods to investigate the changes in social customs of the people at that time. Through the details of life, we can see the overall social situation under the background of the big era.

From a historical perspective, the clothing, food, housing and transportation of the Chinese people changed greatly during the Republic of China. From a cultural perspective, the changes in clothing, food, housing and transportation during the Republic of China were the direct characteristics of the transformation of Chinese culture from traditional to modern. The nature of society determines the development direction of the whole society, and China's modernization is forced to gradually open to the world. Western things poured in like a tide, from guns and cannons to smoke, fire and onions. "Foreign goods are selling briskly, which is not bad for three times of the market". Some Chinese businessmen have also invested in the new weaving industry in the name of "patriotism" and "right recovery". As the foreign cloth is cheaper than the domestic native cloth, the wiring is dense and fine, and the color is bright, it is increasingly accepted by people, and gradually pushes the native cloth out of the market. After the Republic of China, the national textile industry rose, and domestic woven fabrics were added to the cloth shops. In this way, the western-style cloth gradually opens up the Chinese market, that is, these new things are slowly expanding and infiltrating. As there are many ports in the eastern coastal cities, foreign products will appear in the market at the first time. Add in the cultural differences between the East and the West, regional differences, urban and rural imbalances, the southeast coast and the mainland; Urban and rural areas are increasingly becoming two independent worlds.

At the same time, under the impact of western culture, the women's movement has become more and more intense, first in marriage and clothing, showing their strong sense of women's status liberation. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, people still retained their strong feudal conservative ideas. It is reflected in the inheritance of men's deformed demand for women to wrap their feet, and the impact of western culture, the feudal conservative ideology is slowly withdrawing from people's social life. Women's foot binding, on the one hand, caters to the traditional Chinese aesthetic view of slender and soft women; On the other hand, women's foot binding has always existed in the feudal traditional forces to meet the deformed needs of some men. Despite the opposition of a large number of knowledgeable people and the prohibition of rulers, it is difficult to stop foot binding. At the beginning of the Republic of China, with the delusion of renewal, there was an upsurge of improving social customs, including the prohibition of foot binding. Due to geographical and cultural factors, foot binding in the Republic of China was mostly in cities in rural areas, more in small cities than in large and medium-sized cities, and more in the inland coastal areas. This is also roughly the basic pattern of the transformation of social customs in the Republic of China. In the 1940s, with the further transformation of social customs, the concept of foot binding gradually withdrew from social customs. With the government's prohibition, foot binding completely withdrew from the historical stage after liberation.

During the Republic of China, the social customs, fashions and transformation pattern were shown in that the countryside lagged behind the cities, small and medium-sized cities lagged behind large and medium-sized cities, and the inland lagged behind the coastal areas. In particular, it can be reflected in food culture.

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2. During the Republic of China clothing change

In the early years of the Republic of China, under the dual influence of the Qing Dynasty and western culture, there was a clothing reform centered on the abolition of traditional clothing. Men's clothing has gradually transitioned from long gowns and mandarin coats to Chinese tunics and suits, while women's clothing has become increasingly colorful, and there has been a trend of popularizing cheongsam. Especially in the eastern coastal port cities, because of the early opening of coastal port cities, the traditional Beijing style costumes, represented by the imperial palace and family dignitaries and followed by the whole country, gradually lost the advantage of leading the fashion trend, and turned to imitate Suzhou, Hangzhou and Shanghai. This phenomenon also shows the direction of the infiltration of western culture. The overall performance of the country is the change of men's clothing from east to west, from a large number of Zhongshan suits and suits to a large number of mandarin coats and gowns. The change of men's clothing mainly came from the fact that at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, a large number of young people went abroad to study, and new schools were set up in China, which led to the westernization of clothing in society. All school costumes are modeled on Western style. There are three types of suits in the society: one is the military uniform, including British American, Russian and Japanese military uniforms; the second is the suits worn by civilian officials of embassies abroad, compradors and foreign students. In the first category, there are Japanese style taxi official clothes and student clothes. These student clothes were brought back by a large number of young students studying abroad. This kind of clothing is simple in shape and gives people a sense of solemnity and vitality. Therefore, after it was introduced into China, it became popular among intellectuals and young students. Chinese tunic suit It is a combination of Chinese and Western styles. It relies on the traditional Chinese wide gown with large sleeves, absorbs the close fitting and capable style of suits, but has distinctive Chinese characteristics. It gives people a sense of simplicity and solemnity. All classes can wear it, which shows its vitality in a certain sense.

The difference in clothing is not only because of different aesthetic values, but also because of economic factors and personal habits. The number of people wearing Chinese tunics and suits in coastal areas is more than that in inland areas, and the number of towns is more than that in rural areas. In the first place, whether in towns or in rural areas, coastal areas or inland areas, the rich are all well dressed, while the poor are only able to maintain food and clothing. They can't dress well to keep out the cold.

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With the rise of the revolutionary movement and women's liberation movement at the end of the Qing Dynasty, some new intellectuals linked clothing reform with women's liberation, believed that traditional clothing was the shackle that bound women, and advocated reform. In the early years of the Republic of China, the characteristics of women's dress: first, the hierarchical difference in dress was eliminated, which undoubtedly did not signal the success of the women's liberation movement. Secondly, the clothing of Manchu women was abandoned. In addition, under the influence of western culture, Chinese women's clothing has changed the traditional shape of the chest, shoulders and back into a completely flat and straight shape, becoming more fit and can reflect the beauty of women's body. So the cheongsam went to the streets and became a synonym for fashion. At the same time, there were all kinds of clothes, which could be said to be the great trend of colorful clothes. Various fashionable clothes in Paris, the fashion representative of European countries, should pass through Shanghai at that time. In Shanghai's communication market, women's clothing emerged one after another. At that time, in the process of fashion promotion, women's clothing was installed with the same problem, which was also a major social problem.

During the period of the Republic of China, until the present and contemporary times, due to the imbalance of political and economic development, coastal and inland, urban and rural areas have gradually become two independent worlds, the old and the new. The city undoubtedly represents a new world, a new trend and a new fashion. The recession of the rural economy, no matter how many new trends, new fashions. Young women at the upper and middle levels of the county seat have the same clothes as fashionable women in the provincial capital three or five years ago; The clothing of the elderly women and rural women in the county seat is still the style of 20 or 30 years ago; Women in mountain villages are living in more poverty, Clothes & Accessories Not particular, still bound feet. All these show the overall social, cultural, political and economic situation of China under the change of fashion clothing.

In the period of the Republic of China, the coexistence of tradition and modernity, old and new appeared in all aspects of social life.

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