Looking For Japanese Kimonos With The Spirit Of Chrysanthemum And Knife In National Costumes

history

it's said that Japan In the era of divine governance, there was a god Yixie, who had a different life. When he held the event of Fuqu (praying for happiness in the beginning of disaster by fasting and bathing), he often took off his coat, hakama, and belt to expose his body. According to the textual research of later generations, the era of theocracy described in the legend is equivalent to the primitive society of Japan. Thousands of sites of Japanese life in that era have been found, and their distribution areas, from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, are almost all over Japan. In primitive society, the Japanese lived in a group way, and their main production activities were hunting and gathering (don't always think of imperial times). Perhaps it was in that era that the Japanese began to use animal fur or leaves to process to keep out the cold, and walked out of the era of nudity.

In the later period of the rope culture era (Japan's Neolithic Age, equivalent to 800-500 years ago) and the Yayoi culture era (Japan's era of using Yayoi pottery, equivalent to 300-300 years ago), there were two basic clothing styles in Japan. One is a pullover style round neck sweater, whose shape is similar to today's round neck knitted pullover; The other is the facing up style. The front is made of the left lapel, the collar is pointed to the waist, and the sleeves are tubular sleeves with the length above the knee. There are also hakama, scarf and Yu Xubi matching the jacket. Hakama originally refers to a kind of crotch cloth worn on the lower part of the body to cover the jacket, but here Hakama refers to the bottoms similar to trousers with legs connected. Men have a kind of waist wrapping called garment. The waist wrapping is tied to the coat. Because of the pleats, the garment has some changes. Most women wear clothes. Unlike men, women's clothes reach the ground, and the form is quite similar to today's Korean women's skirt "Qima".

The scarf is usually hung on both shoulders as a decoration. The form of hanging is not limited, and it is usually determined by personal hobbies. In production labor, the scarf is often used as a belt to tie long sleeves, or as a substitute for cloth. On the occasion of parting, people waved their scarves to show their reluctance. It played the same role as the handkerchief waving in the Meiji era. Yuxubi is a kind of banded fabric larger and longer than a scarf, which is wrapped around the waist in the morning. In ancient Japan, women tabooed being peeped at by men, so they were used for masks.

According to the records in the Ancient Chronicles, the Japanese Book, the Atlas of Plantation Wheel, and the Collection of Ancient Sayings, the clothing in the later period of Japanese rope culture and the Yayoi culture has been made of plant fiber materials such as Chu cloth, linen, cotton rough cloth, rattan cloth, and Kebu, and the belt is made of Japanese cloth. The appearance of clothing materials is shrouded in the halo of myth, such as the sun vulture god cutting and weaving cloth, and the sun growing white feather god creating linen for civilian use.

Dyeing was already common at that time. According to the story of Yingshen, when the emperor was walking in the scene, civilians had known to dye red with madder, blue with indigo, yellow with arthralgia grass, black with acorn, and purple with purple root. Dyed fabrics are mostly free of lines, and occasionally there are some lines, which are usually directly wiped by leaves, flowers and plants. The plants used include moongrass, swallow grass, hazelnut, mountain blue, honeysuckle, etc.

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1. Nara era

The coarse cloth clothes of ancient Japan, with narrow sleeves and slanted plackets, are similar to those worn in ancient China. However, there are written records that the introduction of Chinese clothing into Japan and its absorption and institutionalization should start from the era of Nara. The Nara era in Japan coincided with the flourishing Tang Dynasty in China. Japan sent a large number of scholars and monks to China to study, exchange and absorb. These envoys brought back the culture, art, laws and regulations of the Tang Dynasty to Japan. "Clothing Order" is one of the systems formulated in Nara era. The "Clothing Order" stipulates the dress, court dress and uniform - court dress includes hat and crown, which are classified according to official rank; Uniforms are the clothes of civil servants without official positions, classified by industry. In general, the clothing color of Nara era is relatively simple.

2. The era of peace

In the Heian era (after the ninth century), due to the prevalence of national style, Japanese kimonos gradually got rid of foreign influences and developed unique features of luxury and delicacy. Their clothes began to diversify in color, and their sleeves also developed in a broad direction. For example, those familiar with Japanese history must have heard of "Tang Yi" and "Twelve Dances". Tang clothing is a kind of formal dress. Purple and Fei are precious. It is magnificent and beautiful. Twelve sheets are actually a way of wearing. She is not twelve layers of single clothes, but twelve layers of clothes called Gui. Gui is light and transparent. When multiple layers of Gui are folded, the color of the single clothes or the surface can still be vaguely seen, adding to the beauty of hazy trance.

3. Kamakura era

Due to excessive corruption and extravagance, Gongqing's rule finally declined. During the Kamakura period, the relatively lean and simple Wujia culture appeared, and the characteristics of this era are also reflected in clothing. In addition, at that time, the Yuan Dynasty unified China and invaded Japan for ten consecutive times: in order to facilitate the war, the Japanese returned to plain clothes and narrow sleeves.

4. Muromachi era

In the Muromachi era, family lines were printed on clothes (in ancient Japan, each family had family lines according to their surname, and the estimated number of family lines exceeded 20000), and casual wear design began to become formal. The straight down and black hat are fashionable men's clothes, which are very popular. Women's wear is more simplified.

5. The era of Antu and Taoshan

In the Andu era of Zhitian Xinchang and the Taoshan era of Toyotomi Xiuji (the middle of the 16th century), people began to pay attention to wearing different clothes in different places, so there were "visiting clothes" for wedding parties and tea parties, and "sleeveless clothes" for various celebrations, adult festivals, banquets and blind dates. During this period, the distinctive folk "Nengle" gradually took shape, and the gorgeous and luxurious "Nengle" costumes appeared. At this time, Gongqing's clothing did not change much, it was basically the continuation of the palace clothing in the Heian era, and the final integration of Gongqing and the martial arts family was in the Meiji period, which is later.

6. Edo Era

The Edo era was the most prosperous period in the history of Japanese clothing. At that time, although there were changes in men's clothing and women's clothing, (for example, the shape of the small sleeves of women's clothing became close to modern times, while men's clothing was popular with feather weaving, followed by tea and yellow, and knots began to be popular.) However, the basic pattern had been set, and by the Meiji era, the kimono in the sense of kimono had been shaped, and since then it has not changed much. Most of the kimonos we see follow the special clothes of the Edo era.

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Fine Arts

Japanese painting originated in Japan, and the history of Japanese painting was influenced by Indian Buddhism and Chinese art, especially in the Tang Dynasty, when Buddhist art spread to China and Japan. Both the murals in temples and portraits in life have similarities.

The paintings that really reflect the Japanese kimono are mainly Japanese genre paintings. Japanese genre painting originated in the Shikan era (1392-1573), which is equivalent to the Ming Dynasty in China.

At that time, many Chinese genre paintings were introduced into Japan. For example, the "Geng Zhi Tu", which reflects the production process of ancient Chinese working people, was imitated by Japanese painters as a model. As a result, many versions of "Geng Zhi Tu" were introduced into Japan, and there were also many versions of "Geng Zhi Tu", a painted screen "Geng Tu", which reflected the production process of ancient Chinese working people. However, the real rise of Japanese genre painting was in the Edo era. At that time, although there was a school of classical painting devoted to the traditional story of things, such as the story of Genji, the story of pure colored glass, and so on, all appeared on the screens of the royal nobles at that time. This traditional theme was generally expressed by traditional painting techniques. The figures in the painting are all wearing gorgeous clothes in the palace at that time, and their modeling style is somewhat similar to that of a young man with a job. But at that time, there were more genre paintings painted on these screens at the same time, which was a major feature of the early Edo period (early 16th century). Its painting center was in Kyoto. At that time, after the turmoil of Guangren civilization, the economy of Kyoto was reviving. As a symbol of recovery, the garden festival in the ninth year of the Ming and Guang dynasties was also held annually in Kyoto. Because of this, a series of screen paintings appeared in large numbers, For example, there are three versions of this picture, namely, Kaneda, Libo, and Shangshan. In addition, there are screens in the National Museum of Tokyo, namely, the Custom Picture of Luoyang (the first half of the 17th century), and the Picture of Four Rivers in the Jingjiatang Library. The themes of these screens are quite similar to the pictures of spring outing in the Tang Dynasty, but the characters are more numerous and the scenes are more grand, The content of kabuki stands out. Such as four rivers and six willows. The former is the center of the rise of kabuki, while the latter is the place where female kabuki tourists gather. Kitano Shetou kabuki, founded in the eighth year of Qingchang (1603), became popular overnight. At the end of Qingchang's life, he set up a permanent stage in Sitiaohe for Liutiao Liucho girls to perform. At that time, there were a lot of written records about this custom, and the local area became the cultural center of Kyoto. It can be seen from the kimono wearing at that time.

However, the grand occasion of kabuki was repugnant to the rulers. In the 16th year of Kuanyong, the government ordered that kabuki be banned, so indoor amusement pictures were added in a large number during Kuanyong.

In the middle period of Edo, the counterpart of genre painting was Ukiyo-e painting in the Taoshan period. Uki-e painting was to draw a single beauty from indoor amusement pictures. This form was particularly popular in the era of Kuan Wen, so it was called Kuan Wen Beauty Painting. Among them, the Painting of Eight Thousand Generations of Doctors was a particularly excellent work.

In the middle of the 17th century, print illustrations appeared in Edo's publications. The people who drew these illustrations were called painters under the board. Most of them were unknown painters. Among them, the outstanding one was Shixuan Lingchuan (- 1694). Shixuan was the illustrator of the Edo edition of Jin Yuan Xihe's "Lust Generation Men", and each of the illustrations could be appreciated independently. Shi Xuan is the founder of Yimei Painting. The beauty in the Painting of Returning Beauty is wearing a kimono with embroidered big round flowers on a small red round flower ground. When the beauty looks back, she smiles happily, which is very moving.

In the second year of the Ming Dynasty (1765), paintings centered on haiku became popular. It is made of luxurious multi-color folding prints, of which the excellent author is Suzuki Chunxin (1725-1770). Its prints are as beautiful as brocade, so it is called brocade painting. The beauty of its paintings, especially the willow waist, is very popular. After Chunxin, the representatives of beauty paintings include Shengchuan Chunzhang, Niaoju Qingchang, etc., but the most famous Ukiyo-e painters are Xiduo Chuangemo (1753-1806), whose paintings are mostly half body paintings or large first paintings, such as "Ten Body Paintings for Women to Learn from Each Other". Since then, many genre paintings reflecting sericulture or textile production have also used this Ukiyo-e style, and the women in the paintings wear kimonos of working women at the lower levels.

From Japan to modern times, there is a special school of beauty painting, and most of the paintings are Japanese women wearing kimonos.

Since the 30th year of Meiji era, Japanese painters have begun to create new beauty painting techniques, which can be divided into three schools. One is the modern beauty painting school that emerged from Ukiyoe painting, represented by the Kaimu Qingfang in Guandong; The second is the beauty painting based on the ladies and ladies of the upper class, with the four round hills as the representative. Among the works lined with the pine garden, there are groups of Japanese ladies in kimonos. They are beautiful and have plump faces. The kimono making method described is also very clear, which can be distinguished between hanging a pair of shoes or friendship; The third is the beauty painting combining east and west, which depicts Japanese women in kimonos in the style of western paintings.

The above art works related to kimono. It not only preserves the colors of kimonos in different periods of history Fabric , patterns, styles and accessories also reflect the wearing methods of kimonos, as well as the various behaviors of Japanese wearing kimonos. In addition, these works are actually kimonos in the eyes of the artist, revealing the attitude and feelings of the artist and his contemporaries towards kimonos.

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type

There are many kinds of kimonos, including men's and women's kimonos, unmarried kimonos and married kimonos, as well as casual clothes and gowns. Men's kimonos have few styles, monotonous colors, more dark colors, thin belts, and easy to wear. Women's kimonos have various styles, bright colors, and wide belts. Different kimono belts have different knots and different hairstyles. Married women often wear "sleeved" kimonos, and unmarried women often wear "sleeve shaking" kimonos. In addition, according to the different purposes of visiting, playing and shopping, the pattern, color and style of wearing kimonos are also different.

1. Sleeved kimono

The gowns worn by women to attend their relatives' weddings, formal ceremonies and ceremonies are mainly divided into black sleeves and color sleeves. With black as the background color, dyed with five patterns, and printed with patterns on both ends of the front hem of the kimono, it is called "black sleeve", which is used by married women; If three or one pattern is printed on the fabric of other colors, and there is a pattern on the bottom, it is called "colored sleeve". The first picture is black sleeve

2. Vibrating sleeve kimono

Also called long sleeve dress, it is the first dress for ladies. According to the length of sleeves, it can be divided into "big vibration sleeves", "medium vibration sleeves" and "small vibration sleeves", of which "medium vibration sleeves" are the most frequently worn. It is mainly used for adult ceremony, graduation ceremony, banquet, evening party, visiting friends and other occasions. Because this kimono gives a fashionable feeling, more and more married women wear "medium vibration sleeves".

3. Access to Kimono

It is a kimono that is dyed with patterns as a whole. It unfolds from the bottom, left front sleeve, left shoulder to the collar. In recent years, as the most popular simple dress, visiting kimono is very popular. It can be worn at school opening ceremony, friends' parties, parties, tea parties and other occasions, and there is no age or marital restrictions.

4. Small grain kimono

The clothes are dyed with small patterns. Because it is suitable for practice, it is generally used as a daily fashionable dress, which can be seen on occasions of dating and shopping. Miniature kimonos are also used by young women for semi formal evening dresses.

5. Funeral clothes

All the belts are black, and they are worn at funerals.

6. Wedding clothes

A wedding dress.

7. Bathrobe

Before bathing. Summer kimono.

8. Men's kimono

The men's kimono is a formal dress with patterned mandarin jacket and hakama, that is, the pattern is to weave hakama with feathers. In addition to black, other patterned mandarin coats and hakama are also simple gift clothes, which can be easily matched.

9. Plain kimono

This is a kind of monochrome kimono (except black). If it is dyed with patterns, it can be used as a dress. If it is not, it can be used as a daily fashion dress.

10. "Pay" Kimono

The patterns on the sleeves, front and back, and collar are the general name of kimonos printed and dyed from bottom to top. It is lighter and more comfortable than visiting kimonos.

11. Twelve Orders

It is the grand dress worn by ancient women when they entered the palace or festival. It is divided into Tang clothes, single clothes, watch clothes, etc., with 12 floors in total.

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The following are the categories of kimonos

Accessory

1. The belt originally used for women's kimonos with pill belt has patterns on the front, which is gorgeous but elegant.

2. The width of the bag is 8 inches (1 inch in Japan=3.03cm), with patterns on the front and plain color on the bottom. It is the most popular belt in Japan. One kind of belt woven into brocade thread or gold thread can be matched with the gift dress, and other belts dyed with light patterns are used for fashion clothes.

3. The two ends of Nagoya Dai Taigu are respectively connected with two thin belts, which is comfortable and convenient to tie.

Bagged Nagoya belt: the belt width is eight inches (1 inch=3.03cm), which is lighter and more comfortable than the bag belt.

Half middle belt: Its bandwidth is only about half of that of ordinary belt. It has no lining and no thin tape. You can tie it according to your own preference.

4. Kimono accessories

In addition to the combination of clip, band and knot, the accessories of kimono also play a great role in the beauty of kimono. The accessories of kimono mainly include belt lifting, belt tie, belt plate, belt pillow, Yidadi, waist button, chest button, and double wings. In addition, there are underwear matching kimono, some auxiliary tools for wearing kimono and beauty, as well as shoes and other accessories.

The belt and tie are very important small parts in kimono assembly. The function of belt lifting is not only to fix and cover the belt pillow when making the belt knot, but also to match the kimono and kimono belt in decoration. The materials used for the belt are generally woven fabrics, damask, crepe fabrics, etc., which are decorated with tie dye patterns, Youchan dye patterns, small patterns, embroidery patterns, or color without ground. Band ties play the role of tying and clothing band ties, which can be divided into rope straps, woven straps and quilted straps. There is a kind of cylindrical quilted belt called pill quilted belt, which is a special band for dresses. Another kind of rope belt mixed with gold and silver wire is also commonly used for binding formal dresses and casual dresses. Generally speaking, the price of a thick band is higher than that of a narrow band, so the narrow band is usually only used on bathrobes.

Belt plate: It is a kind of plastic fitting placed in front of the belt to prevent the belt from wrinkling. Its width is narrower than the belt.

Pillow: It is used to make Taigu's belt mountain and shape the changing belt knot. The large ones are very large, but generally the standard ones are used

Idadi: It is a kind of kimono accessory that is tied on the chest below the neckline of kimono to prevent wearing out of shape. Idadi generally selects Bodo fabric with thin texture.

Waist button and chest button: It is used to compare the length of kimono when wearing kimono, or as a fake button on the chest.

Biyi: It is a specific decoration on the sleeves, so that the kimono can be seen through two layers of stitching. Biyi stipulates to decorate the cuff, collar, lapel and the opening from armpit to sleeve. Widowry cannot be performed with wings.

Underwear: The underwear of kimonos mainly refers to foot bags, muscle loops, petticoats, long loops, and half necks.

Foot pocket: socks. Kimono socks are required to be completely white, and the four toes are put together and separated from the big toe.

The material is made of poplin with equal width.

Muscle loop: that is, close fitting sweatshirt, which can absorb sweat in summer and keep warm in winter. The fabric is spun yarn and silk made of natural fiber, and the collar is made of similar cloth into a narrow V-shaped collar.

Skirt: Skirt is mainly used to prevent the skirt from being stained and keep warm. Fabrics such as spun silk, crepe fabric and nylon are about 5cm shorter than the long loop.

Changruhuan: also called kimono long shirt, it is a layer of clothes worn inside kimono. Its main function is to keep the kimono flat and beautiful, and also play a role in antifouling.

Half collar: also called collar. The half collar is sewn on the long loop, and its main function is antifouling. The fabrics are crepe fabrics, salt wrasse spun fabrics, etc.

Shoes: with other clothing accessories, including straw shoes, piggybacks, handbags, buckles, hair accessories, etc.

Grass shoes: not shoes made of grass, but shoes with heels of 2-8 cm, including cloth shoes, leather shoes, lacquered leather shoes, etc.

When selecting straw sandals, you should pay attention to that the selected straw sandals should be consistent with the use of kimonos. The straw shoes for the dress are made of cloth, and the heels of the shoes should also be higher. In recent years, more and more people choose lacquered leather shoes, which also reflects the fashion of straw sandals.

Under pack: namely wooden clogs, there are painted under pack, white wood under pack, etc. When wearing a bathrobe, wear barefoot and pack. When it rains, clogs should be covered with rainproof and mud proof clogs, which is called piggyback under rain.

Handbag: it is also one of the important accessories of kimono, and it is also required to match with kimono in terms of fabric selection, design and color. The handbags used for dresses are usually made of Sagejin, Bodo weave and brocade. As a handbag to carry when going out, patent leather and leather are generally used as the surface.

Buckle: It plays the same role as the strap tie, but the buckle is usually decorated with pearls, seven treasures, etc., in order to leave a beautiful impression.

Hair accessories: such as combs, hairpins, ribbons, etc. When choosing hair accessories, pay attention to the occasions of use. For gorgeous kimonos such as vibrating sleeves, the choice of hair accessories should be more colorful; If you wear mourning clothes, you should avoid wearing coral, jade and other hair accessories.

Others: bracelets, clogs.

features

Kimono belongs to plane cutting, which is almost all composed of straight lines, that is, created by straight lines kimono The beauty of. There is almost no curve in kimono cutting, but there is a 20 cm cut in the neck, and the surplus parts will be stacked together when the collar is put on. If the kimono is taken apart, people can see that the fabric used to make kimono is still a complete rectangle. Due to the above characteristics of kimono tailoring, the kimono is relatively free in tailoring. When making kimonos, they are less influenced by people's body shape. People with different height, height and weight seldom give the impression that the kimono is not suitable even if they wear kimonos of the same size. Because it can be adjusted at the waist according to different people. Although the kimono is basically composed of straight lines, which are inserted on the body in a straight tube shape, lacking the display of human body curves, it can show solemnity, stability and tranquility, which conforms to the Japanese temperament. Not only that, kimonos also conform to the nature of Japan; Most areas in Japan are warm and humid, so the ventilation of clothing is very important. Because the kimono is relatively loose, there are as many as 8 air holes on the clothes, and the sleeves, skirts and train of the kimono can be opened and closed freely, so it is very suitable for the local climate of Japan.

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