Chinese National Costume Culture -- Jingpo Dress Culture

Jingpo nationality, China Yunnan One of the world's nations was developed by a part of the tribe of the Tang Dynasty. Modern documents are often called "hilltops". They are also known as "Dashan", "Xiaoshan", "Cha Shan" and "wave speed". They call themselves "Jingpo", "Zai WA", "La" and "Lang e". They mainly live in the mountains of counties in the Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture of Dehong, Yunnan, and a few live in Nu River, Gulang, hillock, Gengma, Lancang and other counties.

Jingpo people live in the Subtropical Mountainous Area of 1500-2000 meters above sea level in the Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture of Dehong, Yunnan. Their ancestors lived in the southern part of the Qinghai Tibet Plateau as early as the Tang Dynasty. Since the yuan and Ming Dynasties, agricultural production has been the main force, and it has also been engaged in animal husbandry, collection and family handicraft industry. In the 40s of this century, it has developed to the stage of the transition of the rural commune and the transition to the class society. At that time, due to low productivity, Jingpo people lived in poverty and clothing. Now, with the continuous improvement of living standards, the Jingpo people are getting better and better.

Jingpo people have rich and beautiful oral literature, and have long narrative poems reflecting the origin and migration history of the Jingpo people. They reflect stories of the Jingpo people fighting against nature, and also have myths, fables, proverbs, riddles and so on. Historical legends, stories and so on are combined with music, singing and singing, beautifully and beautifully. The love songs are extensive in content, novel and lively in form, can express delicate and complex thoughts and feelings, have rich imagination and high artistic conception, and occupy an important place in the oral literature of Jingpo people. Jingpo people love music and dance, musical instruments include wooden drum, horn horn, flute, three to Guan Leqi, elephant drum, chord, Gong, cymbals and small three strings. Good at group dance, men, women and children alike. There are three kinds of dance which are celebratory, sacrificial and entertaining. After the completion of the new house and the victory of the war, we celebrate the celebration dance.

Sacrificial dance is performed at the sacrifice of "Mu Dai" (the biggest heaven ghost) or the death of the old man for the deceased. The outstanding features of Jingpo dance are mass. Some group dance takes part in thousands of people. Among them, there are more than 60 year old people and 10 year old children. The famous "eye brain" (meaning everyone dance) has become the annual grand festival of Jingpo people. "Brain and song" is a large dance that thousands of people dance together, accompanied by vigorous wooden drum sound and magnificent atmosphere, showing the height of group dance. Jingpo is skilled at knives, and usually plays with knives. Women are good at weaving, and can weave colorful patterns with hundreds of species, most of them are animals and plants, beautiful and gorgeous. Cotton fabrics are beautifully patterned and full of national characteristics. All kinds of silver ornaments have reached a higher technological level.

　　 Clothes & Accessories style

The clothing styles of Jingpo people are bold and bold. Jingpo men wear black round collar blouse, short and wide black trousers, black cloth or white cloth scarf, and the side of the scarf is decorated with colorful small balls. When you go out, you can hang a paw on your shoulder and carry a long knife in your waist. It's just a warrior with great air and courage. The Jingpo women are mostly dressed in black blouses or left T-shirts, under black and red skirts, with black stripes around their legs. During the festival, the women's jackets are covered with large silver bubbles. They wear six or seven silver collars and a string of bell shaped silver chains, with a pair of long silver earrings on their ears, and silver bracelets with large and decorative patterns on their hands as decoration. When dancing and dancing, silver ornaments are ringing and there is no lasting appeal.

Many Jingpo women painted their rattan circles with red or black paint around their waist to dress themselves. They thought that the more rattan circles they had, the more beautiful they were. This is a unique aesthetic concept. {page_break}

Clothing features

The ancient costumes of the Achang ethnic group living in Yunnan, from the existing literature, are more suitable for hunting and nomadic activities and natural ecology in the cold mountain areas. From the top of the hat to the clothes on the body, they used the skin of their prey to make materials. After the Ming Dynasty, the dress of the Chang nationality had new characteristics. Ming Jingtai, "Yunnan map of the annals" volume five said: Yunlong state "multi e Chang man", that is, Chuan Chuan man... Scattered among hills and gullies. The male bun wears a bamboo bag, with the fur bear skin decorated, with the pig feather feather feather as the top decoration. Their clothes have no leaders, but soldiers do not leave them. These costumes with obvious hunting characteristics constituted the basic characteristics of the ancient costumes of the Chang nationality.

Dress custom

Jingpo ethnic group has five kinds of claims: Jingpo, Zai WA, Lang e, La La and bra. The color of clothing is mainly black, white and red. Yellow, green, blue, brown, purple and other colors are used for matching colors, bright colors, strong contrast, strong collocation and harmony. Traditionally, Jingpo's textile materials are mainly made of cotton, wool and linen, twisted by hand, and then woven into cloth. Dye is made from tree leaves and other natural plant materials. Ornaments are mainly silverware, others are rattan and straw woven accessories.

Jingpo people are usually dressed in a normal fashion. Men are not the same as Han people. Men usually wear a black pair of shorts, and trouser legs are short and wide. Only some of the elderly wore large baggy tops and loose baggy trousers, with pigtails wrapped around their heads, wrapped in black cloth Baotou, and most of the young people had changed to modern clothes.

Women usually wear a long jacket with silver bubbles and silver chains around their collar. They wear a long dress uniform made of coarse cloth, and their colors are mostly dark. Most elderly women wear a wider blue or black jacket, with black hair on top of their heads and black Baotou.

In addition, the flower adornment is one of the characteristics of the clothing of the Chang nationality. Both men and women like to decorate flowers or plush flowers on the head, chest, waist, calf and so on. The flowers are usually red, white and yellow. They think red flowers symbolize joy, white flowers symbolize pure purity, and yellow flowers symbolize love.

Women's clothing

The Jingpo people's holiday costumes are very different, especially the girls' costumes are more beautiful and gorgeous. Their tops are black velveteen sweaters, necklaces, silver necklaces, and silver rings, with red and black knitted fabrics covered with many silver foam silver chains, leggings wrapped in red legs and black wool, with 3 rings of sparkling silver bubbles on the front and back, and a string of silver chains and silver ornaments hanging from silver bubbles. Some girls have 2 silvers in front and back. This dress is really like an ancient woman chivalrous, and it makes a beautiful noise from the road.

The girls said that those silver bubbles and silver chains were decorated on the body as if they were auspicious peacocks. The girls' lower body is lined with red cotton wool on the right side, with a geometric pattern of skirt, girdle, rattan and bamboo waist hoop. Some girls wore high red hair on the top of Baotou. Some girls had hot hair and hair on their shoulders. All of them looked very energetic and beautiful. The girls gird around the waist to show that they are the embodiment of the Dragon Girl. At the same time, wearing the rattan circle is still a gift for young men to express love.

Men's clothing

In the long historical process, Jingpo has formed its own unique national costumes, mainly including a skirt, a headscarf and a headband.

The skirt is a cylindrical skirt. It is a national costume of many ethnic groups. Generally, there are two kinds of skirts. They are not stitched skirts. They are worn around the lower body. The interface is on the left side, right side or front, and the upper part is tucked up or tied well. Jingpo people call it "winding skirt". Jingpo women wear this kind of dress; the other is a well stitched skirt, and wear the back waist well. The Jingpo people's skirt is mainly based on big red. It uses yellow, black, white, blue and green cotton and wool to weave large and small geometric patterns with diamond shaped shapes. It is exquisite and unique, and distinctive headscarves. Jingpo men prefer white, black and blue Baotou towels. Both ends of the Baotou towel are decorated with small balls of red, yellow and other colors.

　　 kerchief A small piece of a piece of paper that covers the top of the head, usually in a rectangle, with the front part covering the top of the head, tied with a plait or rope, and the latter half hanging behind the head. Jingpo women often use headbands. Jingpo girl's headgear is made of red cotton and wool, roughly square shaped, with yellow, green, white and purple vertical stripes on it. The ends of the head are linked by black cloth or thread, so that they are made into a cylindrical shape, which is placed on the top of the head and behind the brain. {page_break}

The development of Jingpo dress

1. Jingpo dress is obviously insufficient in modern life.

The official system of the Jingpo and the primitive religion adapted to the low productive forces were relatively intact in the early 1950s. The original religious culture affects Jingpo's life value, traditional concept, ethics, psychological quality, customs and habits, farming and animal husbandry, etc. Wearing traditional clothes of Dai Jingpo is not convenient for labor in production, and gradually replaced by advanced and practical Han costume. The way of wearing the Han nationality's clothing and the clothes of the lower body has been extended to the present day, which makes the Jingpo ethnic group make many jokes and embarrassments in the actual communication due to the lack of clothing.

People who have worked and lived in Dehong remember the traditional festival of "naao song". In the jubilant public places, the Jingpo people present traditional and old-fashioned national costumes. The men, regardless of their age, wear Baotou, wearing white shirts, wearing black trousers, long knives, and a silver bag, even a Jingpo man. In order to show their richness and beauty, women put on thick black blouses full of silver bubbles, and then embroidered all kinds of animals and plants like red skirt, but wore less than 2 to 3 hours. Just like performing on stage, they changed clothes for a while, and replaced them with very suitable Han costume.

Two. The way of production is backward and the cost is high.

The regions where Jingpo people live are mostly at the low level of the primary stage of socialism, with a weak foundation and backward economic and cultural development. The situation of underdeveloped productive forces has not changed in general. And the traditional manual way of weaving clothes, making a set of Jingpo men's costumes will take a week at the fastest cost. The cost price will be about 300 to 350 yuan. The production of a set of Jingpo women's dress will take longer, and it will take about a month, and the price will be between 2000 and 2500 yuan. Therefore, the traditional costumes with Jingpo characteristics, because of the large investment, slow effect and high price, make most Jingpo people unable to reach.

Three. The propaganda of excellent culture is not in place, and the innovation work is lagging behind.

Jingpo is the sons and daughters of Dashan, the descendants of the sun, an industrious, courageous and hospitable nation. It has been divided into six branches on the road to south migration, forming a diversity of cultural characteristics and diversified cultural characteristics. It has formed excellent and unique traditional culture of Jingpo from various aspects such as production culture, dress culture, catering culture, religious culture and entertainment culture. But the best and unique parts of these traditional cultures did not enter music, drama, dance, novels, film and television as early as possible. Despite the leadership and support of government departments at all levels, some Jingpo leaders did not have a sense of urgency, sense of crisis and sense of responsibility. They led the nation to throw away their old ideas that do not adapt to social progress, such as production and way of life. They dare not persist in carrying forward the fine elements of their national culture, and learn to absorb advanced culture of all nationalities, including Western civilization, to make up for my shortcomings and gradually achieve the goal of becoming weaker and stronger. Although Longchuan has become the hometown of the Jingpo people's "song of Nao", the creation, design and production of national costumes have not been implemented in detail, and propaganda needs to be strengthened.