The Application Of Chinese Elements In Modern Fashion And Fashion Design
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Women after the New Culture Movement clothing Rapid changes have occurred and reached a climax rapidly Western clothing With the introduction of and media promotion, women's wear, which is already at the peak of change, has been further promoted. When women entered school in the 1930s, it was a revolution in thought. The direct result of the influence on clothing was the emergence of unique student clothes. Female student clothes can be divided into two categories: one is Chinese style skirts, the other is Western style clothes. Western style clothing is often equipped with short skirts or trousers in western style, which is more common among foreign students and students in foreign church schools. After the 1920s, the traditional form of women's clothing gradually faded, and Western style red and white patterns gradually replaced the mainstream clothing. Western fashion has a wide range of styles, which vary from spring to autumn, and the combination of Chinese and Western fashion is also popular.
From the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century, China was forced to open its doors. While Western style men's and women's clothing has been widely accepted by the public, the traditional national clothing has also broken a new path in the reform, drawing on the elements of western clothing and integrating the characteristics of the nation and the times.
More and more western designers also seek inspiration from Chinese clothing elements. The so-called "Chinese elements" refer to the design elements with typical Chinese national characteristics. These elements include: Chinese silk, brocade, linen, blue printed cotton and other fabrics; Cheongsam, Chinese tunic suit, bib, stand collar, slanted placket, opposite placket, slit and other styles; Decorative patterns of Tuanhua, Peony, Entanglement, Dragon and Phoenix, and Chinese characters; Bright red, green, bright yellow, blue and other national colors; Inlay, inlay, roll, plate, embroidery and other Chinese crafts. Looking at excellent clothing design works, they all pay attention to the ingenious combination of traditional culture and fashion. As the essence of art and culture, Chinese elements play a very unique role in modern fashion design and are an important means to express the beauty of personality. This also promotes the inheritance and innovation of Chinese traditional clothing elements on the one hand, and pushes Chinese traditional clothing into the world clothing industry.
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Among many Chinese elements, the application of traditional fabrics, traditional colors, traditional patterns and traditional crafts can best reflect Chinese characteristics:
First of all, fabric is the material basis of clothing, which directly determines the style and style of clothing design. With the rapid development of textile technology, various new fabrics have brought infinite imagination to modern clothing design. However, the unique style of traditional fabrics still retains its irreplaceable charm. Silk, damask, brocade, linen and blue printed cloth all have strong Chinese characteristics and play an important role on the stage of modern clothing design. Silk is famous for its softness, delicacy, elegance and magnificence. Women's clothes made of silk can better reflect women's charm and gentleness. In recent years, because many international fashion designers use silk fabrics to design clothes that are unique on the world clothing stage, the charm of silk shines. In addition, modern clothes with strong decorative effects were also produced by weaving brocade and damask patterns with strong layers, rich colors and strong impact,
Secondly, on the international fashion stage at that time, the mention of red would remind people of China, especially red and green were most widely used in traditional Chinese clothing. As the special color of the imperial family, yellow gives people a sense of magnificence, dignity and sacredness in the traditional Chinese dress culture. It should be said that yellow, with its unique brightness and flamboyance, is widely used in various clothing designs, giving people a luxurious and elegant temperament and feeling.
Moreover, Chinese traditional patterns often become the essence of modern clothing design. The most representative clothing patterns in China include Tuanhua, Peony, Entanglement, Dragon and Phoenix, and Chinese characters. The dragon and phoenix figure was the special pattern of the Zeng royal family in the feudal society of China, with strong totem traces, but it was ingeniously used in the decoration of clothing in the folk. In modern clothing design, these traditional patterns have been improved and widely used in various clothing designs with Chinese characteristics. Designers decorate these patterns in the decoration of various clothing and accessories through embroidery, printing and dyeing, hand painting, embroidery, knitting and other different techniques. Through a variety of typical patterns and shapes, the clothes are decorated in different parts of the clothing, so that the clothing not only contains rich charm of Chinese traditional culture, but also has a strong sense of modern beauty.
Moreover, the wonderful embellishment of traditional Chinese technology in modern clothing design. Traditional Chinese clothing is flat and straight cutting, emphasizing plane decoration. The decoration means include traditional inlay, inlay, roll, plate and embroidery. The use of plane embroidery to decorate the surface space of clothing is a common technique in Chinese clothing design. In particular, the exquisite embroidery technology and silk fabrics make the clothes full of oriental charm. In recent years, with the revival of the popularity of Tang costumes, the inlay, inlay, rolling, plate and embroidery processes have been widely used in modern clothing design and become fashionable embellishments of fashion.
Finally, the flexible application of Chinese traditional style modeling in modern clothing design: Although Chinese traditional clothing has developed and changed with the changes of the times, it still belongs to two-dimensional plane cutting. Clothing should be "seamless", and seams should be reduced as much as possible. No darts should be made. In this way, their spiritual temperament will be elegant and dynamic. It does not emphasize the morphological characteristics of the human body, but uses style, color and decoration to distinguish men's and women's clothing. Clothing shows a natural, gentle, lingering and continuous state, which will achieve the harmonious integration of human and nature. In the West, designers actively draw nutrients from the traditional costumes of all ethnic groups in the world and transform them into an eternal fashion art. It is the Chinese style high fashion that makes a kind of calm temperament pour out and become the beautiful scenery that people can stop to enjoy in this colorful world. With its heavy sense of history and fresh sense of fashion, it has swept the changing fashion stage. All of this is due to the diversity of design methods of international top brands, which are extremely flexible and have no traces of rote application.
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There are two main design methods to integrate Chinese traditional clothing elements into the world clothing world: one is the combination of modern fashion contour and Chinese clothing elements; The second is the non Chinese use of Chinese elements, that is, "Chinese shape" and "non Chinese design".
First, the outline of modern fashion and Chinese clothing element Blending of
When foreign designers absorb Chinese elements, they often make some articles on the basis of the outline of modern fashion to seek innovation and breakthrough, so as to achieve the perfect combination of modern design and traditional national elements. The most commonly used design technique is to use Chinese craft materials and pattern colors, or to decorate or break the basic fixed style. In terms of the application of process materials, brocade and embroidery with Chinese characteristics are most widely used. The most common is the lifelike embroidery flowers, which use hollowed out or three-dimensional Chinese embroidery to show the most enchanting posture of flowers, making the fabric full of three-dimensional. In terms of patterns and colors, western designers not only simply copied patterns of dragons and flowers in the past, but also further explored paintings with more Chinese humanistic flavor, such as Chinese ink paintings.
Second, "Chinese shape" rather than "Chinese design"
When talking about the styles and shapes of Chinese elements, it is natural to think of Chinese cheongsam, mandarin jacket, waistcoat, etc. Chinese designers may more often add buttons, decorative patterns, embroidery, etc. according to a fixed mode of thinking, while foreign designers only take these styles and shapes as a constituent element of clothing, integrating modern life concepts into their design, Re interpret the traditional style. They often break the fixed pattern of Chinese traditional clothing, either intentionally or unintentionally, by virtue of the differences between cultural backgrounds and thinking in another mode of thinking. In addition, in the process of creation, they always put modern life concepts into them, and integrated traditional Chinese cultural elements into modern life concepts, which is mainly manifested in the use of post-modern deconstruction, taking the typical patterns, lines, colors, etc. of the Chinese nation as a symbol, vocabulary, and combining traditional components through non-traditional techniques, It is integrated into its own design, thus forming a new type of beauty combining ancient and modern Chinese and western handicrafts and modern technology.
When international fashion masters compete to express their understanding of oriental style through the latest masterpieces, we in China certainly cannot be indifferent to this. Compared with people in other countries, we have more authentic traditional oriental style clothes to choose from. Cheongsam, Tang costume and household clothes are all carrying out their clothing reform revolution.
1. Charming cheongsam is unique
Speaking of traditional Chinese clothing, I believe that many people will see women in old Shanghai wearing cheongsam walking in front of them. A fitted cheongsam can always perfectly express the oriental charm of Chinese women, as described by Eileen Chang, "women in cheongsam are always as charming as gardenias". At the beginning, the cheongsam was not the "narrow sleeve, high collar, close fitting" style we are familiar with today. The cheongsam originated from women's dress in the Qing Dynasty is a style of "straight tube, long sleeve and hard collar". However, with the passage of time, the cheongsam style that can highlight the curve of women's body has been recognized by modern people. Today, the cheongsam has more fashionable elements. The fabric is made of breathable silk instead of the original silk, and the style is also diversified: the hem is not slit, the fashionable mini flared skirt is replaced, the straight collar is replaced by a small basin collar, the right open large front is replaced by a small middle front, and three plate buttons are added to make the cheongsam charming and dignified. The cheongsam can also be worn separately. The suit style cheongsam is divided into upper and lower pieces, The clothes are elegant and avant-garde, and there are many kinds of prints and colors.
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2. Chinese style pajamas are soft
Chinese home clothes, which are mainly characterized by silk and embroidery technology, have also become a major category of Chinese clothing. Sleepwear, nightdress and nightgown made of elegant silk and thick brocade are of high quality, comfortable and comfortable to wear, and can also keep warm.
It is said that the beautiful patterns on the pajamas or nightgowns embroidered with flowers and traditional dragon and phoenix patterns are all handmade by highly skilled embroidery experts who spend several days to make them smooth and lifelike. Such silk home clothes can only be washed by hand to maintain the best state of Chinese home clothes.
3. Improved Chinese dress, classical and fashionable
Traditional Chinese cheongsam and Tang costume both have high requirements on body shape, and the proportion of body shape will seriously affect the overall wearing effect. Therefore, many Chinese clothes have been improved more or less. On the basis of retaining the original Chinese traditional characteristics, some modified Chinese suits incorporate European tailoring and design to make people more comfortable and convenient to wear.
Older people have a special preference for authentic Chinese clothing, but many young people cannot fully accept the formal style of cheongsam and Tang suit. As a result, those clothes that combine western tailoring and oriental characteristics have found a balance between tradition and modernity, and have made a modern interpretation of traditional decoration. For example, in the past, Chinese clothing did not pay much attention to shoulder design, but now shoulder pads are added to increase the three-dimensional sense of clothing. The opening of the lower skirt of some improved cheongsam has also greatly reduced the height, and the style that only exposes the lower legs is very convenient to wear. Especially for women with pear shaped figure, the lower part of the body also tries to make the best of its advantages and avoid its disadvantages, instead of emphasizing the slim design, it uses a loose hem style of western skirt, which is both classical and can cover up defects. The most special thing is that the traditional Chinese crafts such as piping, embroidery and button rolling are added to some clothes that seem to be full of modernity, so that the clothes immediately have a simple Chinese charm.
4. Charm in the Tang Costume Tradition
The pattern of printed fabric, small stand collar and middle button is a typical pattern of Tang clothing Tang costume The model not only inherits the styles and fabrics of traditional Chinese clothing with cultural charm, but also absorbs the characteristics of three-dimensional tailoring of some western clothing. In terms of color, it is mainly dark red, wine red, sapphire blue and coffee, but also some special colors such as bright yellow and emerald green. The pattern of the fabric is also dominated by the revolving round flower with Chinese characteristics, or the character patterns such as Fortune and longevity.
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