Clothing Culture Of Qing Dynasty In China
First, the background of dress culture.
At the end of the Ming Dynasty, the peasant uprising overthrew the Ming ruling class. The Manchuria aristocrats entered Shanhaiguan through the arms of Wu Sangui, the leader of the Qing Dynasty, and established the Qing Dynasty. From 1644 to 1911, with the establishment of the Qing Dynasty, prosperity, decline and destruction directly affected the development and changes of Chinese dress culture.
As the last feudal dynasty in Chinese history, from the very beginning, it was built on the basis of political and national oppression. In order to destroy the Han people's national consciousness, the rulers forced the costumes of Manchu and forced the boycott of the Han people, forcing the Qing Dynasty to adopt the strategy of "ten from ten not to follow."
Clothes & Accessories
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Absorb the achievements of Han costume.
During the Qing Dynasty, the political economy underwent unprecedented changes. The complicated and changeable international environment also affected and influenced the costume.
Emperor Qianlong had great achievements, but he clearly realized that he inherited a set of political theories which had been included in the clothing system, rather than the appearance, so that he could pass the country for a long time.
Two, the characteristics of Qing Dynasty costumes
After the entry of the Qing Dynasty, the shaving order was made in the two years of Shunzhi, and the soldiers and civilians were allowed to shave their hair in the next ten days. They were not allowed to use the Han style clothes according to Manchuria costumes.
In the nine year of Shunzhi, the crown clothes of the Han nationality were abolished. From then on, the man changed his hair to cut his hair, and wore his sleeves and deep shoes to tighten his socks, replacing the big sleeves and stockings of the Ming Dynasty.
Shallow shoes
Among them, the "horseshoe sleeve" is the most distinctive.
In addition,
In the Qing Dynasty, buttons were used to make connectors, which greatly improved the form and structure of garments.
When the Manchu Han nationality is fused, the dress of the Qing Dynasty still can see the reservation of the basic costume of the previous generation, such as the twelve chapters of the Royal costume, the Royal costume, the complement of the imperial garment, the flower Ling, and the difference between the jade, the coral, the gemstone, the gold and silver used by the officials, and the number of Jin Feng, the number of Jin Zhai and the system of distinguishing the rank from the imperial wife to the crown.
In the late Qing Dynasty, under the influence of the new thought of "middle school as the body and Western learning as the emphasis", several students were selected to study abroad.
The students cut off their braids and started their suits.
Since then, the Qing government has opened schools, trained the new army, adopted western style clothes and military uniforms, and changed the dress of students and army.
Qing Dynasty imperial costume, Dragon Robe, Queen Phoenix robe, appeared Hui clothes.
In the Qing Dynasty, eight banners armed with armour, warriors wore armor, Pipa gowns and Mandarin Liriodendron.
In the late Qing Dynasty, there were cloudy shoulders and embroidered shirts, the wide sleeves of Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, and loyal robes.
In addition, the biggest feature is the flag.
Manchu flag (Figure two) the outer outline is rectangular, saddle collar is covered with cheek protection, clothes are not waist and waist, shirt is not exposed, right side of the right is decorated with disk, false sleeve two to three, horseshoe sleeve cover hand, figure two.
Shoulder pocket
The increase of the mandarin jacket is solemn and solemn and outstanding. It is especially prominent in the history of Chinese clothing.
Two. Men's clothing in Qing Dynasty
Guan Ding Guan: from the emperor to the civil and military officials, they are taken by grade.
The crown has a crown, often crowns, crowns, rain crowns, warm caps and cool caps.
Costumes: dresses, dresses, dragon robes, regular gowns, robes, end covers, python clothes, gowns, mandarin jacket, raincoats and rain clothes.
Among them, dun Fu is a sacrifice for the first king, Yuan Qiu and so on.
When the ceremony is taken, the Royal dress is used for the palace court, the grand military ceremony, the major military salute, the foreign fan Chao Guan and so on; the Dragon Robe (Figure three) is bright yellow, embroiders the nine dragons, positively looks at five, one is hidden in the skirt, is "95 supreme" the intention, has twelve chapters, the five colors cloud decoration, the Dragon Robe bottom, the oblique arrangement many curved line water feet, has the billows waves, the water wave above has the mountain stone treasure and so on, "the unification mountain and river", is unceasing, all events and so on auspicious.
The dress sleeve is made into a horseshoe shape, commonly known as "horseshoe sleeves" (Figure four), such as the horseshoe sleeves, the shawl collar and the queen two shoulders of the emperor's dresses.
They symbolize the image of horseshoe, bow and saddle, and fully display the glorious history of Manchu riding and shooting.
In particular, the arrow sleeves of Manchu traditional costumes are retained as Manchu's salute movements.
The arrow sleeve is also known as the horseshoe sleeve, usually hoarding into a horseshoe shape. When it comes to courtesy, it swiftly turns down the "cuff" and then goes to half a ceremony or a full ceremony.
Later, men and eight banners were used by women.
Fu Ming: following the characteristics of the Ming Dynasty, according to the different positions and patterns, one of the quick patches is on the front, chest and back.
Civil servants, cranes, pheasants, peacocks, Yun Yan, white egrets, egrets, quails, quails, practicing birds; military officers: kylin, lions, leopards, tigers, bears, Biao, rhinoceros, rhinoceros, and seahorses.
Huang Magua: a more respected official.
In general, men's clothes are robe, change, shirt, trousers, etc., and the Liriodendron is covered outside the robe, and only waist length. The tunic has the pattern of a pair of gowns, coats and lute gowns. The vest or Qin shoulder, long gown and gown are the main gowns of the Qing men. The officials have two slits, and they are called "one garden" without the slit.
Military uniform: in the early Qing Dynasty, samurai costumes were worn by the generals. There were bright armour, dark armor, armour, armor, clothing under the form, shoulders, axillary and protective glasses (Figure six).
Ordinary soldiers wear short sleeves with tight sleeves and a tight waistcoat.
Vests, breasts, and backs have a circle, and the book soldiers, bravely, indicate the words they belong to.
The sailor's short sleeves are narrow sleeves, and the words of a ship are marked before the collar.
Three. Women's clothing in Qing Dynasty
In the Qing Dynasty, the highest rank of women's clothing was the woman of life. The dress was similar to that of men's clothing.
The costumes include dresses, dresses, dresses, dragon gowns, dragon robes, gowns, women's robe, Choi Choi and Chao Zhu.
The queen hangs, (Fig. seven).
There are three styles, all of which are decorated with stone green tablets and gold margins.
Embroidered lines are made of dragon, or dragon, or dragon, hem or dragon, or with eight treasures of Ping Shui and Wan Fu longevity.
There are three types of robes, made of bright yellow brocade and woven with dragon pattern.
The shapes of other women are similar to that of the queen, but the colors are clear yellow, golden yellow, fragrant, blue and stone blue.
There are two kinds of dress for Manchu women's clothing in Qing Dynasty.
Manchu women usually wear long gowns or outer covers, while Han women still wear their skirts under their jackets (figure eight).
The robes of Manchu women are large and long enough to cover their feet.
Aristocratic women use cluster dragon and regimental python, usually with silk embroidery patterns.
Sleeves, skirts, clothes and so on are decorated with lace.
The collar is lower and the height is higher.
The robe is very large at the beginning and its waist is getting smaller.
Outside is often covered with short or long waistcoat shoulders, with a pair of lapel, one word collar, Pipa collar and so on.
This long evolution evolved into the main garment of Han women, Qipao.
Han women wear Han women's clothing than men's clothing changes less, usually wearing cloak, jacket, skirt.
The cloak is a coat, the shape is a pair of breasted, big sleeves, and long knees.
The cloak is equipped with low collar and ornament of all kinds of jewelry.
Inside is the upper apron.
In the early days of the skirt, there were preserved customs of the Ming Dynasty, including the style of Phoenix Tail skirt and moon dress.
In the late Qing Dynasty, it was fashionable to wear skirts and trousers, mostly made of silk and embroidered with patterns.
There are also vests, long below knee, and multiple trimmed.
In winter wear leather clothing, some of them are exposed inside the outside, called "out front."
In the middle of the Qing Dynasty, women wore cloaks in winter and Western style coats.
Cloud shoulder in Qing Dynasty
Shirts: the women's shirts in the Qing Dynasty were round necklines, right buttons, twists, straight sleeves, flat sleeves, no gas, and five buttons. The sleeves had two kinds of sleeves: half sleeves and half sleeves.
The coat is very similar to the style of the shirt. The difference is that the shirt has no gas. The clothes are left and right up to the armpit, and the top of the gas will be decorated with clouds. The ornamentation of the coat is also more magnificent.
Four. Costumes in the Qing Dynasty
Hair ornament: Flag bun, refers to two heads, big pulling wings and other Manchu bun.
Bun is to divide the hair from the top of the head into two knots, comb the two flat bun on the top of the head, and insert a big flat square between the two flat bun. The roots are fixed under the flat square. There are two kinds of titles, such as head, head and Ruyi. After the Daoguang, the women inserted the bun with two frames, such as the double horn, and the shelf. After the Xianfeng Period, the bun gradually increased, and the sides were also gradually enlarged. The top wore a "fan shaped" crown, which was called "flag head" or "Palace Dress", and the vulgar "big pull wing" (Figure nine).
Figure nine
Accessories: there are many kinds of ornaments in Qing Dynasty.
The collar, collar, collar, bead, girdle of the waist.
The necked collar is a military official and a life woman wearing a formal dress with a neck like a diamond and a python on the neck.
In the Qing Dynasty, the dresses were not worn, and the stiff collar was added to the robes.
The collar is attached to the collar, and the front and the two long beads.
Slice.
Chao Zhu is one of the ornaments hanging on the chest by Qing officials. It is similar to rosary beads, consisting of 108 beads and different materials with official products.
The girdle, the royal family members of the royal family are surrounded by golden yellow belt and Jue Luo red belt.
General ornaments: there are corolla like seeds in the cold season.
The traditional custom of earring Manchu women is to wear three earrings on one ear. The earrings left behind are earmarked for two categories: earrings and earrings.
(Fig. ten) the ring is gorgeous, and the bracelet, clothing and accessories are highly skilled.
Figure ten
Nail sleeve (Figure eleven) is also one of the unique ornaments of Manchu women, with many kinds of jewelry or gold or silver on their nails.
In addition to traditional jade ornaments, sachets and purses, ornaments are also influenced by Western foreign cultures. They also begin to hang up pocket watches.
Costumes are often equipped with colorful buttons, which can not only fix clothes, but also decorate.
Shoes: in Qing Dynasty, people wore shoes when wearing casual clothes and wore boots while wearing public uniform.
Most of the boots are made of black satin. They are used for square ends and sharp pointed.
He still wears square boots.
There are other sewing boots for senior officials.
Wu Yi and tolerance wear a fast boots called "climbing Ivy".
The styles of the shoes include cloud head, flat head, mosaic, double beam, single beam and so on.
Manchu women's shoes are very distinctive.
The sole is very high, usually one inch, and the height is two inches. It has a higher figure, and the width is twelve.
The lower circle is like a flowerpot, hence the name "flower pot bottom" (Fig. twelve).
The shoe is made of wood, and the middle is chestnut shaped, so it is also called "horseshoe bottom".
Five. Summary of dress in Qing Dynasty
The Qing Dynasty is a special historical period in the history of Chinese clothing. It is mainly dressed by Manchu and has typical nomadic characteristics of the north.
For thousands of years, the Han nationality's traditional Han nationality tradition has been destroyed and changed because of its long sleeves and long sleeves.
In contrast, the sleeves of the Manchu nationality, with their sleeves short and narrow, were dominant.
The flag is characterized by material saving, simple production and convenient wearing.
Although the costume of Qing Dynasty has abandoned many traditional basic forms in appearance, its interior has not changed, and its spiritual essence is the same as the whole Chinese costume culture.
It embodies the customary characteristics of the nation and preserves the hierarchical system left over thousands of years. However, the complexity of its provisions and the complexity of its rules and regulations are more than those of the past dynasties.
The clothing of the Qing Dynasty was the last stage of the development of ancient Chinese costume, and its process ended with the collapse of the last feudal dynasty.
Although ancient Chinese costume has ended its course, its significance is far beyond itself.
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