Exclusive Interview With Binbin Costume Liu Bo - Costume Design Reflects More Than Art

relative Beijing , Shanghai, Guangzhou and other places are very developed in the design industry, and it is difficult to find a highly personalized independent style in Tianjin designer Many designers with personality also choose to develop in cities with well-developed fashion industry. In Tianjin, a once fashionable city, it seems difficult to retain designers who are free in their minds and have wonderful writing skills in their hands. However, such a sky is like a piece of white paper. It seems blank, but it can leave its own mark anywhere.

　　 Characters in this issue

Liu Bo, Design Director of Tianjin Shanshan Fashion Company. clothing Graduated from the major, he has 5 years of clothing production experience, and has become an outstanding fashion designer from the most basic plate making and plate making step by step in 14 years.

After graduation, Liu Bo began to work in a small clothing store on the Fifth Avenue, mainly in plate making. This small store was a relatively high-end clothing store in Tianjin at that time, which is similar to the clothing customization now. That store is located in the semi basement of a western-style building on the Fifth Avenue, where Liu Bo started his career as a designer from the most basic plate making, plate making and cutting. Different from many designers interviewed by reporters, in Liu Bo's eyes, the clothing market is the topic he talks about most.

　　 Mature women's clothing should show a strong femininity

What style of clothes are mainly designed?

Liu Bo: Mainly design mature women's clothing around 35 years old. In fact, 35 years old is the age group. But compared with 10 years ago and 5 years ago, 35 year old women have much higher requirements for their own maintenance and fashion. If we put the design five years ago to the present, even a 50 year old woman may not want to wear it.

Personally, I prefer simple and generous Italian style design, such as MaxMara. This design style is simple, grand and elegant. While maintaining a certain sense of design, it is also very practical and practical. However, the Tianjin market is not very receptive to this style at present.

The 35 year old woman has entered a relatively mature and stable stage in her life, so the clothing style should first reflect this mature and stable temperament. In addition, it is necessary to show some interest in the design. In fact, although many women of this age cannot change their physiological age, the mood of wanting to stay young is common. Under the premise of maturity and stability, it is necessary to reflect the feminine charm of mature women, but also to prevent excessive publicity. This degree is actually difficult to handle.

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In addition to design, consider the clothing market

As a design director in a clothing enterprise, what should be considered in addition to design?

Liu Bo: For laymen, fashion design is just drawing pictures, but for a Fashion Designer Especially for designers in garment enterprises, there are far more than these. The balance of design is the most important thing for designers in the brand. If the design style is strong, the risk will increase. If the style is weak, it is meaningless. If the design is too standard, the design works will lack characteristics and appear mediocre. Sometimes my works designed by myself seem to have nothing wrong with them as a whole, but I just feel that they have no novelty or characteristics.

I am good at addition. I Design Our initial works will be very simple, and then add elements in the design bit by bit to find the balance point. The most important thing is to investigate and feel in the market, because as a designer, you should not only consider the design style, but also consider the acceptance of the market, the overall style of the brand, the display of the store, the overall effect of the store, and so on. clothes In the store, for brands and customers, clothing only accounts for 40% to 50% of the factors that increase their purchase desire, and the rest depends on the overall image of the store to attract customers to the store, which should be taken into consideration at the beginning of the design.

The clothing industry is undergoing restructuring and reshuffle

In the clothing industry, what do you think the local enterprises in Tianjin are facing under the impact of fast fashion?

Liu Bo: The development of fast fashion has changed the way people dress and the concept of buying. Most local garment enterprises in Tianjin are not oriented here, because fast fashion needs a lot of financial support and design support, so that customers can buy the most fashionable clothes at a relatively low price. Quality is not what these fast fashion brands are looking for.

Now the cost of clothing production is getting higher and higher, and the price is rising constantly, but at the same time, the quality of clothing should be guaranteed. No matter how the price of clothing rises, quality is the most important. This is the common pursuit of local garment enterprises in Tianjin. The level of design, the level of technology, the quality of fabrics, etc., should be constantly improved with the development of the market.

At present, the clothing industry is undergoing a process of reshuffle. In downstream industries, such as fabric providers, which are undergoing a reshuffle, enterprises with poor competitiveness have closed down one after another, and resources are concentrated in several excellent enterprises. With the concentration of resources, the price of fabrics is also rising. If clothing enterprises order fabrics late, they will queue up. This bottom-up shuffling process has already affected many garment enterprises. In addition to these costs, the decoration of the store and the cost of workers are much higher than before. Now it's hard to see the quality of a store that costs 1 million yuan.

What do you know about choosing clothing fabrics?

Liu Bo: Although Tianjin has a long history of light spin Historically, it is mainly for retail, and there are relatively few large-scale professional enterprises directly facing garment enterprises. At present, it mainly depends on large enterprises in Zhejiang, Guangdong and other places. These fabric chambers of commerce produce fabrics according to fashion trends and needs of enterprises, which are the best in terms of professionalism and fashion.

Building nests to attract talents, good enterprises can retain talents

What is the current number of designers in Tianjin?

Liu Bo: Tianjin is not lack of good designers, but many excellent designers have developed in other provinces and cities. The primary reason is that there are few local garment enterprises in Tianjin and the fashion atmosphere is not strong. Now it is difficult for me to recruit designers. Especially excellent designers are unwilling to stay in Tianjin. Even newly graduated college students are more willing to work in Shanghai, Beijing and Shenzhen. Few are willing to work in Tianjin. This is an objective reason and a reality that is difficult to change for the time being. Only Tianjin clothing After the brand becomes bigger and stronger, more and more excellent designers will be attracted to stay in Tianjin.