Clothing Knowledge: Introduction To Clothing Board Making Technology

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A professional clothing Plate making Design What the personnel should learn is the proportion of the human body and the structural characteristics of the contour of the human body. The proportion of the human body refers to the relationship between the length of each part of the human body and the obesity of each part of the human body. The contour structure of human body refers to a certain structural law of the ups and downs of human body surface. In particular, the key parts of the human body that greatly restrict the clothing of the human body, such as the shape characteristics of many key parts of the human body, such as the shoulder, neck, back, chest, and the texture characteristics of bone and flesh movement.

Understanding the human body is because clothing must meet the two functional requirements of the human body: first, clothing must meet the function of beautifying the human body; Second, clothing must meet the function of human movement.

Clothing is not a simple copy of the shape of the human body, but a simplification, leveling, dressing and decoration of the complex shape of the human body. Clothing should be made according to the human body, but not completely equivalent to the human body.

The human body surface is very complex, and it can only be measured generally without the help of professional equipment. Without the help of a large number of professional research results, it is difficult to accurately grasp the human body as a whole.

The human body is the source of clothing structure, but it is absolutely unnecessary for ordinary learners to abandon clothing structure patterns and simply do human body research.

Board making technology should start from prototype

What is advanced board making technology?

We must pay attention to two attributes: first, we must be able to change freely, change in a myriad of ways, and follow our own inclinations in structure; Second, the detailed structure should be handled in a very good way with originality. To sum up, only by flexible application, the garment technology of "not rigid and good at change" is the real advanced garment technology.

Is it difficult to make garment board? A practical technology has its own complexity as well as its own regularity. If you can grasp the essence, you can quickly grasp the key, understand and do well. The key is to learn the essence, rules and principles. The important thing is to learn from the source, so that you can save time and effort and do not feel difficult. Many beginners learn certain things from one garment style to another. Although this is necessary and traditional, it is often inflexible in structural changes. After learning the style cutting of clothes one by one and mastering some essentials of clothes, we should begin to learn deeper structural laws and structural principles, so as to learn structural changes. Only in this way can we finally solve the structural problems and gradually enter the technical realm.

Due to the late start and weak foundation, the gap in clothing technology in China is also very obvious, especially in clothing standards in China need to be further improved; The research on clothing science and technology in China needs to be further strengthened; In particular, it is necessary to remove dross, eliminate false and retain true, and distinguish right from wrong in clothing technology.

In a word, Chinese clothing is in an extraordinary stage of breaking the old system of garment board making and establishing and improving the new system. It is not perfect. Garment board making technology is in a very important stage of development and upgrading. The establishment and improvement of China's garment technology system still needs time.

At this time, technical confusion is inevitable. In particular, we have many textbooks dealing with the principles and methods of structural design, in which the similar or different structural design methods are different. Even the experts in the industry are a little confused about the differences and changes in the details, and the beginners of structural design have no way to start. In my teaching, I found that some students, due to their lack of practical work experience, were suffering from something that was simple but complicated; But some students have mastered the basic knowledge, and still can't make a good board shape in actual work; Some students repeatedly learned various board making methods. One teacher taught a set of methods. Finally, many kinds of methods were mixed together, which led to a big detour; Some people say that if you want to become an excellent garment board maker, you must have six qualities:

First, we should master the proportion cutting method, but not copy the traditional proportion completely; The second is to be proficient in garment prototype and lay a good foundation for garment prototype; Third, we should learn from the European board type, absorb the essence of the European board prototype, and quote each other with the Asian board type for our own use; Fourth, we should be familiar with the garment technology. We should know its nature and its reason in garment board making, and combine board making with practice; Fifthly, we should make great efforts to study the proportion of human body and the national clothing standards, so as to be familiar with laws, good at changes and good at using them; Sixth, we should grasp the market situation and the changing trend of clothing, adjust the concept of structural design in time, so that the plate type can meet the needs of the market.

For beginners, what is the "learning system board"? This must be clear. There is a certain truth in the requirements of the above six qualities: the proportional cutting method is commonly used and has been used all the time. Without understanding it, it is difficult to understand the overall situation of Chinese clothing. Without knowing what others are doing, there is no horizontal comparability; Learning garment prototype is the key to lay a good foundation for garment, master the relationship between garment and human body, and establish the basic shape of garment. It is the first choice for all those who are interested in learning garment board making technology; Learning the European board is a supplement to Asian board shapes. Various board shapes are mutually used, which can help people better understand the internal relationship between complex human body and clothing structure; Being familiar with garment technology is another important basis for garment learning. It is an important way to correctly grasp the details of plate shape, correctly handle the relationship between plate making and sewing, and improve the quality of plate shape; Careful and specific research on the proportion of human body structure is a necessary guarantee to improve the standardization of board making. Only by grasping the changes of market conditions and the trend of market trends can our board shape meet the needs of the public and reflect the needs of the market. Therefore, learning board making is an organic combination of diversity and comprehensiveness. It is a process that can be constantly improved and strengthened. Board makers need to constantly pursue, learn and improve in a dynamic way.

The tasks are multifaceted and the requirements are multi-level. However, our time is limited, especially for those who are just beginning to learn garment board making, it is impossible to learn from one aspect only. Although, many masters have summarized many reliable board making methods based on their years of experience, which is worth our repeated study and understanding.

But how can we learn from each family one by one?

To be sure, each method is the treasure of the clothing family, and is the result of the tireless pursuit of the masters of clothing. However, China's clothing industry has a long way to go. Only by integrating each point of strength can China's clothing industry reach a new level, and enable learners to master the panorama of clothing technology and comprehensively acquire systematic knowledge. Therefore, we must use a historical, developing and comprehensive point of view to see which methods comprehensively reflect the essence of clothing and are reliable; See which board making methods are still insufficient and have certain limitations; In particular, attention should be paid to when and under what conditions the board making method learned by the research can be used.

In fact, the method is wrong, and learning is a detour. Here is an example to illustrate the problem. For example, on the issue of garment shoulder skew, China's garment industry has different opinions: some people favor the method of constant shoulder drop, some set the front shoulder drop of women's clothing as 4.5cm, and the back shoulder drop as 4cm; However, some data recommend a larger shoulder drop, with the front shoulder set at 6cm and the back shoulder set at 5cm; Others are determined by chest measurement, and shoulder drop value is calculated according to chest circumference; However, some people strongly suggested that the method of angle determination should be used. They thought that the method of shoulder dropping was unscientific, especially the method of angle determination at 15:5 and 15:6, but later the method of angle determination at 15:6 and 15:6.7 appeared. Of course, these methods are proposed to solve some specific problems. They are all specific methods to solve problems. They are different forms of expression under different changes of shoulder tilt. They have a certain scope of application. Undoubtedly, they are all very valuable. Some problems may be solved better with this method, and some problems may be solved better with that method. But what makes me headache is that there must be a reason! These different methods are different in size and method, and the origin and starting point are not very clear, which makes beginners confused. How to learn when the "determination of shoulder lean", which is not very complicated, is confused like this? How to master? Therefore, we need to find rules in our study: first, we need to understand what factors are related to the shoulder slope of clothing? What is the most basic board making method in board making? Find out the root cause, and find out all the factors related to it, such as how the shoulder slope should change after the changes of the back shoulder and chest provinces. In this way, it is possible for us to really understand the definite law of shoulder lean, reduce blindness in learning, "respond to changes with the same", and master the correct structure. So I suggest that once you have a certain clothing foundation, you must start from the source, from the "basic structure" that has not been mixed with style features and covered by style, to find the essence of clothing structure and fundamentally solve various structural problems.

This involves the important issue of garment prototype.

What is a garment prototype? Clothing prototype is the most basic clothing pattern that meets the basic clothing requirements of the human body and has no style characteristics. The most basic pattern structure of clothing was initially obtained through human body survey, three-dimensional cutting and repeated samples.

First, a series of somatotypes were selected as research objects, and specific cloth , directly cut and shape the human body, and then adjust while sewing, repeatedly compare and synthesize. Of course, after many aspects of research and improvement and long-term use and adjustment, we finally determined a pattern - this pattern: the bust size is appropriate, and the matching of various examples is just right. Its effect is difficult to achieve in general three-dimensional cutting, It is the best result of stereo cutting. The pattern to be used, as the template of garment board making, further establishes the basic relationship between garment and human body, and further processes different styles of garment patterns according to this relationship, so as to discover and invent the basic method of using this pattern to change garment structure, forming a complete system, The garment prototype and prototype board making method we need were thus born.

With the prototype, the tailoring of each part of the garment has a basis. With this basis, we will not have confusion in clothing technology.

Prototype board making method, which has a very mature system in foreign countries, is only the beginning in China, but in recent years, it is increasingly valued by the clothing industry. The Japanese cultural prototype was created early and has been revised many times. The Japanese body shape is very close to the Chinese body shape, so we can borrow it. The advantages of using prototypes can be described as follows.

The first is to solve the problem of determining garment volume. The dosage of the prototype is the most reliable reference. It is obtained through repeated correction of three-dimensional samples and determined after long-term trial. It meets the basic clothing requirements of the ideal human body very well, and basically solves the problem of quantitative processing in three-dimensional cutting;

The second is to solve the problem of three-dimensional molding in plane plate making. Because the prototype is the result of vertical cutting and sample, its neckline, shoulder, sleeve, etc. are directly obtained from the human body, and repeatedly proofread, so that the board maker can understand the basic relationship between clothing and the human body when making the board, and have a reliable reference, so that they can draw patterns while comparing the prototype, and easily, directly and quantitatively compare with the human body in the board making process, The board making method that forms close contact with the human body improves the board making speed and improves the board making quality.

Third, it provides a source for the structural design of graphic clothing. The clothing structure should be based on the human body, but the human body is an entity, not a clothing, which can not be directly used as the source of clothing structure, but can only be used as an indirect source. The direct source can only be the prototype pattern, which is the basic response of human clothing. Prototype pattern summarizes and abstracts the general rules of garment structure, forms a plane expression, and can be directly used for plane structure design. With this source, we can solve complex problems.

Some people say that learning prototype is an introductory course for beginners of clothing. It is true that learning prototype is a fundamental course, but learning prototype is not only an introductory course, but also an advanced course for learners who want to go deep into it, which is an important guarantee for great improvement of technology.

Establish reasonable plate making method

What kind of method is used to make boards? Do you prefer the "stereo clipping" method or the "plane clipping" method?

This is mainly a question of cognition.

The ultimate goal of board making is to obtain "flat pattern". Whether it is "stereo cutting" or "plane cutting", it is all for the final "plane pattern". In this regard, Brand clothing The board making method of the company is worth learning from. Their general board making process is as follows:

The first step is to produce the garment plane pattern according to the prototype (obtained through the preliminary pattern);

The second step is to cut with the obtained plane pattern, and then take the cut piece to the mannequin for assembling the sample. The seam can be pinned with a pin, and the combination and adjustment can be made at the same time (three-dimensional cutting sample process);

The third step is to correct the plane pattern according to the adjustment (pattern correction process);

Step 4: send the adjusted pattern to sew sample clothes (test panel process);

The fifth step is to review the sewn sample clothes, especially organize marketing and professional technicians to review repeatedly and put forward modification suggestions (review the plate fixing process);

The sixth step is to revise the pattern again according to the review opinions, and then it may be necessary to sew the sample clothes for many times and revise the pattern for many times to get the final pattern (repeated review of the plate fixing process);

Step 7: In order to facilitate board repairing and sample sewing, the pattern printed above cannot be added with seam edges first. This kind of sample without seam edges is called "real sample". Once the final pattern is determined, the seam edges are added to form a wool sample. Push the board based on the wool sample, so as to complete all pattern making work (push the board process).

Of course, the plate making process of some ordinary manufacturers is much simpler. Usually, the flat plate making process is directly followed by the sample sewing process, and then the plate is determined after review. However, this too simple procedure is difficult to create high-quality products and is not suitable for brand manufacturers to produce.

As a whole, the whole process is a combination of plane and three-dimensional. In the actual board making, some people may prefer the vertical cutting method, and some people may prefer the plane method. It should be said that both methods have advantages and disadvantages. Although stereoscopic cutting is praised as "magic cutting method" by many people, beginners are deterred by the excessive dependence on models, the difficulty in grasping "quantity" and the high cost of board making. Especially the grasp of models. Without accurate models, the accuracy of setting will be affected. And it is very difficult for "models" to handle the amount of clothing activities well. Many models sold in the market have adjusted the proportion of models for commercial purposes, which is somewhat different from the real human body, and some models do not add the thickness of clothing (i.e Dressing Level), which belongs to summer models, some models are spring and autumn models, while some models are winter models. The standardization of model production is not very strong until now. Most models need to make certain modifications before use, that is, use some cotton and linings, and add them to models as needed to form a series, which is very convenient for use. If you don't pay attention to the modeling proportion provided by the model and blindly pursue the so-called three-dimensional effect, it would be a big mistake.

Of course, the pure plane board making method also has certain defects. Many experienced board makers can create beautiful board shapes by imagining three-dimensional modeling while using plane board making, which is based on the combination of plane and three-dimensional, but for board makers who lack knowledge of human body structure, Plate making by plane method requires a process of constantly summarizing experience from plane to three-dimensional, and it is difficult to reach a higher level at once. Planar board making must "have three-dimensional modeling in mind". It is the most convenient method to solve three-dimensional problems by plane. If it can be combined with the three-dimensional sample, it will become a more perfect plate making method.

In order to get a good board shape, we should not one-sided pursue "three-dimensional" modeling, nor one-sided pursuit of "plane". We should deal with the relationship between "plane" and "three-dimensional". Clothing does not mean that the stronger the three-dimensional sense, the better. In fact, excessive pursuit of three-dimensional effect will damage the overall shape of clothing. I have seen more than once that some styles are OK to wear by models, but they are very loose on the human body, and "excessive stereoscopic feeling" leads to "loose structure". Therefore, a moderate "sense of plane" helps the overall structure appear compact and harmonious.

To sum up, garment board making is a plane transformation process under the guidance of three-dimensional, "three-dimensional" is the human body image, "plane" pattern is the ultimate goal, "three-dimensional" is the basis, and "plane" is the result. "Three dimensional" is primitive and needs "plane" to actively reflect its regular characteristics. However, the dynamic embodiment can be achieved by either "setting up" or by plane, and ultimately by plane patterns. However, in recent years, the rising "prototype board making" method is a plane drawing technique that sees three-dimensional in the plane and closely links the human body. It can better combine three-dimensional characteristics with plane drawing. To some extent, it can be said that the prototype board making method is more perfect than other methods (it is better to combine it with three-dimensional fitting).

Creation and improvement of prototype plate making method

Prototype creation is a process of abstracting general rules from appearances, which is a huge and complicated long-term work. Especially in the early stage of prototype creation, the measurement and survey of human body is the basis of prototype creation. At the present stage, China does not have a complete prototype, but because it is in East Asia with Japan, and its body shape is very close, the cultural clothing prototype created by the Japanese Institute of Culture and Clothing was quickly accepted by the clothing industry after it was spread to China, which has developed China's traditional cutting technology and greatly promoted the creation of China's clothing prototype, On the basis of traditional cutting technology in China, many new cutting methods have been created, such as parent cutting, base cutting, etc., and the traditional chest cutting method in China has been transformed from the old proportion method to the new proportion method.

In this change without gunpowder smoke, some people cling to the methods they are used to, while some people quickly adapt to the change, resulting in different voices, different views, and various books embodying different views emerge one after another, adding joy and highlights to the readers, but too many views also bring confusion to the readers, In particular, some authors did not fully discuss their views, leaving many questions. In this way, there are many problems that can not be solved, so that everyone is looking for answers.

Why are there so many methods? It's nothing else. Just because everyone is looking for answers, everyone wants to solve some problems that have been puzzling for a long time, so they actively discuss. However, different angles and starting points of solving problems inevitably lead to different solutions.

First, mainly driven by the traditional cutting method, we always want to transform the prototype obtained from outside with our country's proportional cutting method to create a cutting method with Chinese characteristics, which naturally has a great impact, thus creating a series of proportional cutting methods, and also emerging some highly successful instructors.

Secondly, due to the lack of early theory of prototype cutting method, one kind of question or another often appears in the process of board making, and we have to make adaptations. Different experiences lead to different methods of adaptations, and different views emerge. Some experienced instructors begin to question, and if they have questions, they will create. This period should be said to be fruitful.

Third, some board makers are distressed that we do not have our own garment prototype, and they try their best to create their own national prototype, and have launched some distinctive basic garment models.

Fourth, there are also some strange phenomena. Some people engaged in clothing education, for commercial purposes, either mystify the clothing technology, or deliberately complicate it, and deliberately make the clothing technology appear complicated and confusing. In particular, some individuals use derogatory tactics in enrollment publicity, disparage all existing board making methods, and put forward some unproven "alternative" views, Increased technical confusion.

No matter what we say, we do not have our own real prototype in the "complete sense". The creation of the prototype needs future efforts and the attention of the country. However, although we don't have our own clothing prototype, because the Japanese body is very close to the Chinese body, we can use the Japanese cultural prototype for board making. In addition, no matter how it is created, the basic pattern of the prototype will always be very close. The creation of the Japanese cultural prototype is earlier than us. No matter where it is revised, we should also call it the "Japanese cultural clothing prototype", which is a respect for human culture.

There are several versions of the Japanese cultural prototype. The old Japanese cultural prototype appeared earlier, and the body shape is now different from the past body shape, so when the old cultural prototype is used by modern people, it must be modified, and the Japanese body is different from the Chinese body itself, so it must be different when used. We can't give it a Chinese name because of these natural modifications.

The new Japanese cultural prototype is a new prototype that conforms to the body shape of the young generation in Japan, and it is also a prototype that conforms to the body shape of modern Chinese people. The research on it in China's clothing industry has just begun.

New and old cultural archetypes have their own emphasis. The old culture style prototype is highly generalized, which accurately reflects the basic laws of clothing structure, and is very suitable for making ordinary patterns. The new cultural prototype changes the traditional style of the old cultural prototype. According to the characteristics of modern Japanese young people, it is a box prototype created by focusing on the fit style. Due to the different starting points of forming, the new and old cultural prototypes have strong complementarities and have different roles in board making. The old cultural prototype is very popular because of its strong generality, flexible and convenient use, while the new cultural prototype adds the fitting structure of the prototype, but its structure is too complex, which is quite different from the traditional clothing structure method in China. There must be a new set of board making methods to adapt to it. Once you master its use methods, Its huge effectiveness can be brought into play. Therefore, when we are discussing the use of prototypes, we should not only discuss the old cultural prototypes, but also study the new cultural prototypes. We must fully grasp the overall system of prototype use methods, and make efforts to combine the body shape characteristics of Chinese people to make the Japanese cultural prototypes have their own use characteristics, that is, to meet the requirements of Chinese culture.

The difference and relationship between men's and women's board making methods

In the clothing industry, there is a difference between "men live" and "women live". First, because men and women are different in body shape and dressing characteristics; The second is due to different requirements for workmanship and different process settings.

In terms of the board making method, of course, men's clothing has the same method as men's clothing, and women's clothing has the same structure as women's clothing.

First, men's clothing emphasizes "skimming" and women's clothing emphasizes "darts".

"Breast skimming" is the deviation of the front horizontal collar of the clothing pattern, which is mainly affected by the shape of the human body's chest. It mainly shapes the clothing's chest shape, which can make the clothing's chest shape full. The more developed the male's chest muscles are, the amount of "skimming" will increase slightly, and vice versa. As the breast of the female body bulges, the center line of the breast (referred to as "front middle") does not bulge more than the breast point. Therefore, if too much breast lifting is used, the front placket of the clothing will be very loose, and then the front placket will droop, causing the front placket to "open".

"Dart" is a kind of shape with contracted edge and bulging center, which is mainly used to shape three-dimensional shape. Because the chest of the male body is relatively flat, if the dart is used, the front chest of the garment will be uneven, and the overall shape will be damaged. After the dart is used for women's clothing, the chest presents a three-dimensional shape, which better conforms to the characteristics of women's body shape, and can make the clothing structure rigorous, symmetrical, plain, and enhance the beauty of clothing. Therefore, it is said that "darts are the soul of women's clothing".

For men with a particularly bulging chest, you can add a collar dart or a chest waist dart. For women with a straight chest, you can consider using skimming. In addition, as the clothing needs to accommodate underwear, with the increase of the thickness of underwear, the outer coat is more and more away from the human body, and the underwear modification conceals the contour of the human body. At this time, the front centerline of the female body is padded up by the clothing, and the front centerline becomes longer. At this time, a certain amount of skimming can be used.

Second, the basic increase of men's and women's clothing is different.

The basic increase of men's and women's clothing depends on two aspects:

One is to meet the needs of normal human activities.

The human body is a moving body. When moving, the skeleton slides under the skin and flesh, resulting in considerable deformation. In order to make the outer clothing adapt to this change, there must be a certain movement gap between the body and the human body to meet the dynamic expansion needs of the human body.

The second is to adapt to the style characteristics of men's and women's clothing.

Men's clothing should be natural and unrestrained, while women's clothing should be warm and fit. The typical men's clothing emphasizes straightness and straightness, while the elegant women's clothing emphasizes soft lines. In this sense, men's and women's clothing have their own "ways" and requirements. Men's clothing must use a larger amount of relaxation to reflect the requirements of "flat" and "straight". Only sufficient amount of relaxation can meet this requirement, while women's clothing using a smaller amount of relaxation will appear competent and beautiful. If the design is too loose, women's clothing style will be lost.

Third, the similarities and differences in the drawing of men's and women's clothing board shapes.

Due to the large volume of men's clothing, the clothing is not close to the body, so there is no need to make the silhouette of the clothing very curved and soft. Instead, according to the rough and loose straight style of men's clothing, we should pay attention to the rigidity of the contour lines in the board making. The lines in the board making should be drawn smoothly, so as to present the atmosphere of men's clothing.

The structure of fitted women's clothing must strive to create a "sense of line", highlight the beautiful figure of women, properly do more waist retraction, and use a variety of curve shapes, which can fully reflect the characteristics of women's temperament.

In the development process of women's clothing, women's suits were created by absorbing the shape of men's suits. Many women's clothing structures absorb some style characteristics of men's clothing styles in the development, so that men's and women's clothing can integrate, learn from and promote each other in the long-term development. The men's clothing modeling structure is relatively stable, while women's clothing can often absorb some structural characteristics of men's clothing, and some men's clothing can be mixed in the design style Features, which will make the structure of women's clothing more distinctive.