Thaniel, Fashion Queen Of Paris, France
Paris is the capital of fashion today.
Multicolored Paris fashion is well known all over the world, leading the new trend of world fashion.
However, in the early twentieth Century, the clothing industry in Paris showed a lifeless scene.
Even the ladies of the Paris society always wear lace and wrinkled clothes, three layers and three outer layers. They invariably follow the tradition of the last century, and are filled with the old and stale old aristocratic atmosphere.
At this time, a beautiful, free and easy, rich imagination and creativity of women, with their ingenuity and wisdom, in this pedantic fashion industry to break out of a bright new world.
With fashionable, bright lines and fresh style, she created a fashionable, handsome and beautiful style for Paris, France and women all over the world, sweeping away thousands of years of old dress habits, shaping the new image of women in the twentieth Century, creating a new trend of modern clothing, and building the "fashion empire" in Paris.
She is the most outstanding fashion designer in twentieth Century, and is known as Cabrie Thaniel, the queen of fashion in Paris.
In August 19, 1883, Thaniel was born in sawmill, a small town in southwestern France.
His father was a small wholesaler, and his father abandoned her mother and daughter soon after his mother gave birth to her.
The mother was very hardworking, and it was hard for her to drag her to 6 years old.
A serious illness took away mother's life.
Thaniel became an orphan and sent to an orphanage run by a local church.
Thaniel stayed in the orphanage until she was 16 years old.
She could not bear the isolation of the orphanage. She spent the night bravely sweeping out the walls, fleeing the orphanage, and running to the small town far from her hometown, and began her independent and extraordinary career.
It was the spring of 1899, and suddenly there was a noticeable girl in mourning town of Mulan.
She was beautiful, proud, elegant, free and elegant, but helpless.
In order to make a living, she began singing in the town, singing folk songs to the residents in the town and the officers and soldiers stationed in the local garrison.
Later, she was introduced to a sewing supplies shop as a salesperson.
Shears, who can cut at a young age, is like a fish in water in a sewing shop.
All kinds of articles for sewing are at hand.
In her spare time, she often made some small innovations in her clothes, and put out some new tricks: putting a lace on the cuffs, subtracting several complicated folds from her skirt, buying a boy's jacket and slightly modifying it, then putting on a more flexible and smart one, and making a flat round hat for herself, and boldly removing the feather decorations from the bonnets.
Though it was only a small reform, the poor girl became a fashionable girl in the town.
During this period, Thaniel experienced her first love.
There was a rich family named Etienne Balsam, who fell in love with Thaniel at first sight and fell in love.
When Balsam saw Thaniel, she always called her nickname "cocoa".
Balsam said to her, "the name of cocoa is especially suitable for you. It shows your lively and easy-going personality.
"Cocoa Sha Ni Er" has been called since then, even after she became famous, she knew that her name was not many.
Mulan town does not seem to contain Thaniel's brilliance, and she desperately wants to see the world.
So in early twentieth Century, Balsam brought the country orphan Thaniel to Paris, the world's metropolis.
Balsam never thought that the significance of the trip was so profound that he sent the fashion queen to the "Royal Palace" to change the women's habits in the world, making Paris the most famous fashion capital in the world.
When they came to Paris, they rented a small room in apartment 31 of the Concord street.
Since then, Thaniel spent most of her life here, and her career has also developed on this street.
In his later years, Thaniel said that Kang Peng street was a street that brought her good luck.
Everything in Paris made the girl from a small town feel confused and excited.
With the love of beauty, in the colourful, crowded and bustling metropolis, she found a piece of virgin land to be reclaimed. That is the dress of Paris women who have no sense of the times.
She often lingers in the streets, carefully surveying and Pondering over the clothes of pedestrians.
Gradually, she had a unique view of the dress of women in Paris. Now it is twentieth Century. Why do women in Paris still have to keep up with the clothing they inherited in the last century? The heavy skirt with folds and thick lining is required to walk by hand. The coat is lined with thick chest lining and tightly tied to the body. It looks like an ancient soldier's armor, which is suffocating; and the hat that is full of pearls and jewels is too complicated and vulgar.
How can this dress reflect the spirit of the times of women's liberation? She is determined to be a brave pioneer and create a fashion kingdom with unfettered imagination and unique creativity.
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Unfortunately, Balsam did not understand her ambitions, and the two often quarrel with each other.
Balsam's British friend Arthur Capell did a lot of mediation work, but in the end they broke up.
In unaccompanied Paris, she, a weak woman, is not easy to develop her career.
At this critical moment, Capel extended a helping hand to her.
The easy-going, informal and wealthy family support Thaniel very much in developing the clothing industry.
In 1912, he invested in helping Thaniel open a hat shop instead of a clothing store.
This is Thaniel's idea.
She thought that everything was difficult at the beginning and began to open a small hat shop. If it failed, the loss would not be too heavy.
"Thaniel
Hat
The shop is open.
Thaniel, who is good at management, bought a group of outdated, unsalable women's caps from the luxurious Lafite store. She removed the vulgar ornaments on the caps, and then embellished them appropriately, and made them into a new, simple and bright hat.
This hat is permeable to the new age and is very adaptable to the trend of popularity.
When Thaniel demonstrated his hat for customers, he also changed his hat to the corners of his eyes.
This new hat is popular with women in Paris and is known as the "hare".
This chic method has become popular in the streets and alleys of Paris.
The popularity of the "Sha Er hat" made her pay off her debts quickly and accumulated considerable funds.
Thaniel's confidence was greatly increased, and she was no longer satisfied with being a hatter and ventured into the garment industry.
She pformed her hat shop into a fashion store, and designed it by herself, sewing it herself and putting it into dress reform.
After a great deal of observation and research, Thaniel has discovered the problem of women's clothing in Paris: not only old and cumbersome in style, but also too conservative and backward in materials, and it is difficult to make comfortable clothes with high quality materials.
So she bought a batch of pure white knitted fabric from the cloth factory, and made the newest style of women's shirt with this cheap cloth. Its characteristics are: loose and comfortable, simple lines, no duplicate collar, no cuffs, no necklaces, and lower necklines.
In order to facilitate sales, she also gave a distinctive name to this dress, called "poor girl".
This kind of simple and loose shirt looks commonplace nowadays, but at that time, Paris was rather complicated and wrapped up in the old fashioned clothing.
"Poor girl" appeared instantly, and was immediately recognized by Paris women and soon rushed to buy it.
After the shooting, Thaniel launched a series of clothes which are different from the traditional costumes of Paris women.
She shortened the size of her skirt as much as possible, and changed from the original mop to her knees, thus giving birth to the famous "Thaniel Knee Skirt".
She designed trousers with bigger feet, that is, today's bell bottoms, and became the design inventors of bell bottoms.
In style, she introduced some new styles of dress, including a navy navy suit, a tight and fluency tight dress, a broad pullover, a short raincoat, a wide flannel sportswear, a beautiful and practical simple dress, etc.
In terms of color, she does not need bright red, but elegant black and bright Beige as the keynote.
She believes that black, mysterious, plain and elegant, and the use of these two colors of fabric processing clothing, the most beautiful female.
Of course, pure white and pure navy blue are also her favorite colors.
She also designed accessories for clothing.
She invented the women's satchel, and the original one was handheld.
She believed that the working women had to work both hands, and could not occupy one hand by taking the bag.
So, she took a little change from her handbag, put on a long bag, and put it on her shoulder.
She also created imitation jewel buttons, which cost less, and their color and luster are better than genuine jewel buttons.
In addition, she also created "big frame sunglasses".
The combination of "chaner dress" with these accessories is even more icing on the cake, adding a lot of charm.
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These clothes and accessories are quite common today.
But at that time, compared with the complicated habitual habit of three layers and three layers outside, it was a great revolution.
Thaniel finally used his refined style to create a bright new world for the fashion industry in Paris.
At the very beginning of Thaniel's career, she encountered an unexpected blow in her life.
Capel, the support of her career, is also the only person she has ever loved deeply. She died in a car accident on the Mediterranean Sea Road during Christmas in 1919.
Thaniel was deeply grieved by the sad news. If it hadn't been for the accident, they might have been married for life.
After losing Capel, Thaniel never married again. Until she died, people also called her "Miss".
However, Thaniel did not sink.
She bravely built up her career sails and built a "fashion empire" by herself.
Since 1919, the scale of "Thaniel clothing store" has expanded year by year.
She bought 5 houses in Connecticut street and built the most famous fashion shop in Paris.
Thaniel's clothes swept all over Paris.
On the street, "Thaniel style" women can be seen everywhere.
They wore "Ssha Nel S", dressed in black or beige fashion, wore baggy trousers, and stood tall and upright.
The image of women in Paris is new.
These "Thaniel clothes fans" touch each other, even if they do not know each other, and always love to look at each other, trying to find something new to emulate from the other side.
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clothing
After the popularity, a lot of counterfeit products appeared in the market.
Paris women are proud of having a Thaniel costume, but no one knows if they are wearing authentic Thaniel suits.
At a social party, 17 women were all dressed in Thaniel's clothes, but none of them actually came out of the Thaniel clothing store.
Just as they talked about each other, it happened that Thaniel was also present at the party. The real Thaniel came to the scene, and the fake revealed a clear flaw.
The women looked at each other, very embarrassed, and turned their eyes on Thaniel.
Thaniel didn't mind what happened.
She said, "I am glad that my work is copied.
My opinion belongs to everyone, let them imitate me.
If fashion can not go to the street, what kind of fashion will it become?
Then she said humorously, "there is no need for you to worry. I am not very sure about whether this suit of mine is really my shell."
All these people laughed at the words.
"Thaniel fever" climax, Thaniel's career is also expanding.
In 1922, Thaniel introduced and named "Thaniel 5 perfume" according to her lucky number.
This unusual perfume was originally invented by a chemist in Vieira.
Thaniel had the right eye to buy the patent of the perfume.
"No. 5 perfume" is very fragrant and intoxicating. It soon became popular in Paris and sold well in France and Europe and the United States, becoming the most famous perfume in the world.
Later, Thaniel himself invented the "perfume No. 19".
In 1924, Thaniel founded the Thaniel perfume company.
The perfume that has swept the world has provided a solid financial foundation for Thaniel's career, making her the most eminent rich woman in the world.
From a small boss with only 6 shop assistants, she became a big business owner with 4 clothing companies, several perfume factories, and a women's jewelry store.
After his fame, Thaniel became interested in Paris's cultural and social circles.
She set up a "model house" and recruited many young girls from middle-class families in Paris to let these girls sprout her latest fashions and display the style of "Thaniel fashion" in the crowd.
This has opened a precedent for today's fashion show.
She also set up a cultural salon, bringing together celebrities in Paris's cultural circles.
She grants monthly allowances to young writers who regularly visit Sharon to encourage them to create.
She even contributed to the reform of ballet in Russia.
For a long time, Thaniel was one of the most noticeable and most active figures in social occasions in Paris.
Thaniel, the lonely girl in the countryside, finally realized his dream and founded her "fashion empire" in Paris.
People praised her and asked her the secret of success.
She always replied, "what is the secret of success? If I have to say something, I have a sense of modern women.
I created fashions because I know our times.
I am not like the old tailors who hide behind the shops and sew away from social life.
As a modern woman, I like to go out, like sports, and enjoy a modern life, so I have my own unique opinions and choices on fashion design.
One more thing is to work hard. "
This is indeed the case.
With modern consciousness, she can constantly create new fashions for people's needs. Only by working hard can we achieve one brilliant achievement after another.
The woman writer gyo Luo once wrote a description of her work: in Thaniel's view, laziness and laziness are intolerable evils.
She was full of struggling spirit, working from morning till night, sometimes her fingers were stiff and her face was black, and she did not want to stop for a rest.
At the same time, she was very strict with her subordinates, and asked them to work full load like her, and put their whole heart into it. Apart from the Thaniel fashion industry, there should be no other consideration.
In this regard, she has almost become the most authoritarian, but also the most original, enterpriser.
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After the outbreak of the Second World War, Thaniel closed her clothing store and resigned as chairman of the perfume company, ending the first peak of her career.
Several years after the end of the two World War, Thaniel's friends and former lovers passed away. She had no wife, no children, and life was very lonely.
During this period, the world garment industry has developed one person, and fashion designers have sprung up like mushrooms.
Thaniel, who was aloof and confident, could no longer live in seclusion. She decided to make a comeback.
In 1953, she announced to the public opinion that she wanted to hold the exhibition of personal fashion design works and to restore the prestige of the shop.
The whole public was in an uproar: "what, the queen of fashion is 71 years old and has to be back?"
"...
Thaniel did not care about other people's cynicism and firmly returned to the fashion world.
In February 5, 1954, Thaniel launched her first new breed: a navy navy blue dress with two big bags, which was fitted with a pleated plain white blouse and a sailor cap.
In response, fashion critics responded in a polite and restrained way, but women love to buy it.
In October of the same year, Thaniel launched second kinds of clothing, but the reaction was plain.
Subsequently, several new varieties were also seen by the Parisians.
However, Thaniel did not lose heart. Instead, he turned his attention to the other side of the Atlantic and sold his new products to the Americans, and the result was a great success.
The application of American women is like Columbo's discovery of the new world and madly obsessed with "Thaniel costumes".
In the United States Fashion Critic unanimous applause, many buyers go to sea and swarm to Paris, just to buy a Thaniel costume.
The Hollywood stars are proud to wear Thaniel's clothes.
Even Mrs. Kennedy, the former president of the United States, showed off the world by buying a real Thaniel costume.
The New York opera house even composed a light opera based on Thaniel's legendary life.
Later on, Thaniel's clothing became popular throughout the Americas and other parts of the world.
All this makes
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After being neglected in Paris, he felt warm again and felt great consolation in his mind.
She said excitedly, "my heart once died in Paris, but on the stage of New York, I was raised again.
"She finally won second career peaks in her old age.
Cabrie Thaniel took the lead in the world fashion industry for 60 years, and became the veritable "Queen of fashion".
In January 10, 1971, Thaniel died in her apartment at Ritz Hotel, Paris, at the age of 88.
The greatest female fashion designer in twentieth Century was buried in Lausanne, Geneva.
In front of her tomb, colorful flowers were placed all year round.
"Superstar" has fallen, but her brilliant career is continuing.
To date, designers of "Thaniel fashion design center" regularly hold "fashion show" every year. The latest "Thaniel fashion" is launched at the Paris fashion show center. Its popularity is still in the same year. It shows that "Thaniel fashion" has no stronger vitality than before.
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