Milan Men's Wear Week: Lack Of Fresh Blood
What are the hot spots of Milan men's wear show? Are they still warming up? Dog's knitted fabric, slim wool cardigan, striped suit, and complicated sweaters. It gives people a sense that Milan has been avoiding the crisis in development - not what we usually think of, but the lack of fresh blood.
To a certain extent, Milan has shown a new attitude towards fashion. Milan's fashion show looks like a hundred flowers bloom, but in fact it has been inherent for a long time. Clothes & Accessories Tradition, such as men's evening dresses, must be meticulous and elegant. So when Miuccia Prada (Miuccia Prada) debuted in fashion week, many people in the audience thought it was wrong: the collar of the shirt was loose. Ouch, the baggy collar! But for Prada, everything is intentional. The collar expresses a point of view. How should we treat it? clothing And what is right or wrong?
As a result, the real significance of Prada's show in Milan is to tell you how young people really dress. Of course, apart from that, they have to target their customers - those who can afford to buy her. clothes The mature male prepares various works, such as the dog's toothed shoulder coats, which looks quite like the style of men's clothing designed by Prada when he was still working for Miu Miu: top Shetland Islands sweater, two color patterns and stripes, cotton and striped shirts, and the giant bottom for the avant-garde. shoes Shoe.
It also resonates with the audience on the T stage furniture, arranged in open rooms: chunky chairs and round primary coffee tables, all of which are designed by Rem Koolhaas's Metropolitan Architecture Office (OMA), which will be produced by Knoll in the second half of this year. Koolhaas,
The same trend can be seen in Gil SED (Jil Sander) show. The coat is equipped with removable super collar, which is in sharp contrast to the simple and calm trunk part. For example, from the cuffs to the shoulders, they gradually turn into pure colored checked sleeves, with a bright red collar. The effect is quite amazing. as if Designer This shows: "don't say I'm" Minimalism "again, but interestingly, some people also think that it will be better to take off the collar.
However, Gil SED showed some very beautiful sweaters. For example, one of them looks like a simple design, but it uses special stitches to weave an independent cross stitch.
Other brands will focus on the product itself. Bottega Veneta has also launched some good designs. The target group is those who do not wear uniform at work: these men are even dull when they wear shirts and ties. They will strongly agree with the soft tailoring of creative director Thomas Maier, whether it is a jacket like a cardigan or a cardigan like a jacket. {page_break}
We can also find familiarity in the Dolce & Gabbana show. Its Sicilian models are dressed in brand iconic black suits and white shirts, and are filled with a soft sense of customization. Du Gabbana GUCCI (Gucci) has introduced a series of tweed coats and suits to represent the British dress tradition in an unconventional way. The best is the dog tooth pattern and the application of Prince Welsh square, which is favored by Versace (Versace). In the design of Versace, these squares have been deformed because of knitting, and whether they are hand painted tannin jacket or men's lace underwear, the whole show is particularly eye-catching. Believe it or not, the latter is really bought.
If these naked concerns on the product mean that designers are playing their strong points, this safety card will also be bound to lack exciting excitement. Calvin Klein (Calvin Klein) has introduced a series of neat and elegant quilted sportswear (quilting is an important theme in Milan); the zipper shoulder coat of the Armani Emporio (Armani Emporio) line also looks quite dynamic; while the Armani main line shows people in the iconic fine striped suit and comfortable coats -- though the last military style double breasted coat still robbed them of the limelight.
To be exact, the show of Burberry (Burberry) can be counted as an online new product exhibition. All costumes on the market can be ordered immediately. Therefore, the main force of the whole show is high wearable short coat, Duffy coat, raincoat and so on. Creative director Christopher Bailey (Christopher Bailey) has always been enthusiastic about animal patterns of horse hair ornaments and heart-shaped sweaters and shirts. The opening music from the bell of Big Ben has given audiences a high enthusiasm, but it also speculated whether the brand would move its men's clothing to the hometown of London.
If Burberry moves away from Milan to London after the steps of Tom Ford and Alexander Alexander (Alexander McQueen), there will be another big vacancy on the schedule of fashion week. Milan is already trying to reduce the possibility of such a thing happening. But it is obvious that the behavior of each fashion brand is independent of each other and will not form a united front to maintain Milan's position as fashion capital. Italy needs to figure out its own way to tap and support fresh blood.
The importance of Milan's big brands is self-evident, but most of them are created in the 70s and 80s of the new generation, or the old brand that restores youth. It is not too long ago that Milan took the chair of Italy fashion center from Rome. If you don't do anything quickly, then the Milan men's wear show in the late twentieth Century and early twenty-first Century will also be a flash in the pan, and it will not be possible to leave a colorful chapter in the future.
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