The Core Of Chinese Clothing Standard Puts The Cart Before The Horse And Restricts The Development Of The Industry.

　 Core standards are lower than foreign countries.

domestic Spin Restricted export

At the beginning of this month, the upgrading of the two EU chemicals restrictions has caused many Chinese manufacturers who rely on exports to complain incessantly. The new regulations further restricted the content of PAHs and banned azo dyes. The two restriction involved toys, clothing Bedding, bedding, shoes Shoe, towel, wig, Hat And so on. Although the public is not familiar with the names of these chemicals, they are exposed almost every day. For example, azo dyes are textiles and Leatherwear The most widely used synthetic dyes in the dyeing and printing processes of products have been banned in Europe, America and Japan, but they have not been banned in China.

According to the reporter, in the increasingly stringent EU standards, domestic garment manufacturers also began to upgrade. Garment quality inspection 。 "Actually, it is not difficult to do this, though the cost will increase slightly, but the impact is not big. But there is no such requirement at home, so the clothing factory is not looking for trouble. Insiders said.

Data show that Textile and clothing As a matter of fact, different countries and regions have their own quality inspection standard system. In China, we are mainly based on national standards (GB) and industry standards (FZ). The testing center of domestic enterprises mainly includes Guangzhou fiber testing center, Shanghai fiber testing center, Beijing fiber testing center and China Textile Association testing center. In foreign countries, in addition to international standards (ISO), various regions have their own standards, such as the American standards for materials and experiments (ASTM), the European Union standard (EN), the British international standard (BS), the Japanese national standard (JIS), and the international standards. Eco textile Oeko-Tex Standard 100, etc., some large chambers of Commerce, purchasing groups and brand enterprises will also have their own business standards.

Taking children's clothing, which is the most consumer concern, for example, the testing items for children's clothing mainly include formaldehyde content, decomposable aromatic amine, pH value, odor, color fastness to water, color fastness to rubbing, sweat fastness, saliva fastness, marking, fiber content and physical properties of related products. However, the Beijing Commercial Daily reporter has consulted a series of relevant laws and regulations of the International Eco textiles standards, the British international standards, the American International Materials Association and the Consumer Product Safety Commission of the United States. The quality requirements of the above standards for children's clothing mainly include flame retardancy, toxic and harmful substances, clothing rope and small parts, and color fastness, among which children's flame-retardant requirements are strict. But Chinese children's wear testing lacks relevant standards.

The disunity between national standards and international standards is not bad for most domestic brands, but it is not good news for foreign brands. The director of the marketing department of a French children's clothing company revealed that there was no linkage between Chinese standards and international standards. Brand clothing When we enter China, we will have to check separately, which will increase the cost of testing, and this cost will eventually be passed on to consumers. In addition, some people in the industry say that because some domestic requirements are not strict with some foreign requirements, some foreign brands need some individual accessories when entering China. Fabric Replace it.

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Some of the standards are too harsh.

Traditional technology is difficult to inherit.

Wang Zhiquan, founder and CEO of Da Po network, said the differences between these standards have existed for a long time. Clothing industry Many of the standards are established earlier and slower than others, so there are also some unreasonable points. "For example, the color fastness to light is the same as the color fastness of sheets and curtains in China. There is no problem with curtains because of the high color fastness to sunlight, but the color fastness of sheets is so high that it is difficult for enterprises to achieve."

Beijing Rongchang science and Technology Service Co., Ltd. responsible person also believes that compared with the color fastness to light, washing and rubbing color fastness is also very important, for consumers, the "color fastness" is also judged by the number of washing times, so in the formulation of standards should be reflected.

In Wang Zhiquan's view, although these problems can be improved, there is no big obstacle to the development of the industry. But some standards inhibit the development and inheritance of traditional technology. Wang Zhiquan said that the natural materials were highly valued in the great park network, and the "grass dyeing" as a traditional Chinese process requires pure plant dyes. Pure natural fabrics The above stains are not only chemical compounds, but also plants such as Banlangen. "However, the color fastness of pure dyes is not high with chemical dyes and can not enter the retail market normally. At present, only a few small workshops are in production, which is actually not conducive to the inheritance and development of traditional crafts. Wang Zhiquan suggested that standard makers could relax some of the fastness of some textiles, and pay more attention to formaldehyde content and heavy metal content.

Experts in the industry believe that the inheritance of traditional processes such as "grass dyeing" has been affected, apart from standard problems, and because consumers do not know enough about them. "These traditional processes are actually environmentally friendly and harmless to the human body. But because it is difficult to scale production, it is difficult to produce good economic benefits, but also needs the positive guidance of enterprises and society.

The standard system is not perfect.

Functional clothing encountered inspection embarrassment

The outdoor functional clothing industry is even more embarrassing than other textile categories that are yet to be perfected. According to the company's introduction, many brands have already introduced functional products such as windbreak, heat preservation, moisturizing and anti ultraviolet. However, at present, these products do not have targeted standards. They can only use ordinary textile standards to detect safety and appearance and physical properties, and can not involve functional standards. There are also some high-tech fabrics, because there are no relevant standards in the country, even when they are introduced, they encounter obstacles.

According to the reporter, the outdoor brand Pathfinder has his own research and development. TIEF fabric Chen Baishun, technical director of Pathfinder R & D center, said that the research and development of TIEF fabrics is based on the needs of consumers and international standards. Chen Baishun said that compared with international standards, the domestic standards of the country and industry are mostly concentrated on the product itself, while foreign standards focus on the functionality and safety of products, and are more inclined to meet the needs of consumers. "In terms of functional fabrics, we now generally adopt internal corporate standards." It is revealed that the outdoor brand is currently one. clothes Three standards are required for inspection. "Testing of safety and chemical elements will pass the national GB18401 standard of garment industry. The inspection of appearance and physical properties will pass the corresponding product standard FZ/T 81007, but in terms of functionality, we adopt enterprise standards."

Another outdoor brand KingCamp said, taking the brand product as an example, outdoor fabrics should be tested by the self inspection of fabric manufacturers, KingCamp laboratory testing, international famous testing agencies ITS, China spinning and other authoritative inspection, and then gradual inspection system before applying to KingCamp products.

Apart from outdoor brands, some leisure and fashion brands with functional product lines also have difficulties in this regard. At the end of last year, the company's self-made enterprise standards were approved, which allowed everyone to become the first e-commerce company to launch enterprise standards. The company official said that in the enterprise standard, customers have supplemented products which are not currently in the state or industry standard, including outdoor clothing such as assault clothing, and maternity clothes, such as clothing with radiation protection and UV protection. "Functional clothing such as assault clothing, maternity dress and so on, there is no comprehensive standard for the corresponding garments at present. Our enterprise standards are formulated in accordance with relevant standards, so that enterprises can have comprehensive quality control and evaluation of such clothing." All customers said that this is also a basis for subsequent peers and regulators to set standards.

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　　 Standard setters are also participants.

Double identity disrupts fairness

Not long ago, Wang Hai, the first Chinese counterfeit player, sued the "blue moon" and its spokesman Yang Lan. Wang Hai believes that under the premise of containing carcinogens, blue moon laundry detergent not only does not label warning information, but also has the label of "safety and environmental protection". It also clearly states that "infant clothing and underwear are also applicable". This is false propaganda, which infringes consumers' right to know and to choose.

But then blue moon responded that the fluorescent whitening agent used in the deep clean laundry liquid (bright Bai Zengyan) was in line with the industry standard "fluorescent brighteners used in QB/T2953-2008 detergents" issued by the national development and Reform Commission in March 12, 2008. At the same time, blue moon company said that the Guangdong Provincial Center for Disease Control and prevention and Guangdong quality supervision daily chemical products inspection station has issued a test report of the product. The test results showed that the products were of good quality and no irritation.

Since then, experts and scholars have different opinions on whether fluorescent whitening agents are harmful. A few days ago, people in the industry broke the news that fluorescent whitening agents were not suitable for heavy use in clothing. This ingredient was not banned or restricted in China because it was one of the leading producers of quality standards in blue moon. According to the person familiar with the matter, participation in China Clothing industry Many of the standard makers are vested interests in the industry. They are both referees and sportsmen. This is a common phenomenon, which leads to the separation of garment quality standards from the international market. The domestic market is chaotic, which seriously inhibits the development of enterprises.

Clothing watchdog Ma Gang confirmed this statement, Ma Gang said, China's clothing Textile industry There is indeed an injustice in the setting of norms and quality standards, and there are some cases where standard makers are employees of enterprises. However, the quality inspection standards of an industry can not be set to pedestrians, which requires relevant departments to properly consult the industry's opinions while setting up quality inspection standards, while ensuring openness and transparency. All procedures must be aimed at protecting consumers' rights and interests.

In fact, this phenomenon is not a case. Previously, five enterprises, such as Lao Fengxiang, were fined 10 million yuan for manipulating the gold price, which is closely related to the pricing of gold prices. There are also clothing industry insiders say that large Clothing enterprise They will participate in the revision of local standards, industry standards and national standards. In the industry view, the standard setters must have a deep understanding of the industry, so the leader of the leading enterprises is the best candidate, but the unfair phenomenon is unavoidable. In addition, some industry standards and local standards are relatively low, and there are protectionism in the industry. An enterprise admits that once the local quality inspection standards are upgraded to a level comparable to that of the international market, the small and medium garment market will be impacted. "Because their procurement channels are relatively narrow, their technology processes are limited, their production scale is insufficient, and if the quality inspection standards are too precise and detailed, these small factories and small workshops may be in a disadvantageous position because they fail to meet the standards."

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Make good use of scientific and technological information means

Standard setting should be "advanced"

In view of the present Clothing standard In the face of problems, industry experts admit that it is not necessary to change the problem overnight. "It is difficult for a single enterprise, an industry or even the whole industry to effectively solve the problem of garment standard in a short time. This requires the cooperation of all parties, such as government, enterprises and associations. Otherwise, such a complicated system is hard to understand."

Experts suggest that the national standard makers can first strictly standardize the clothing standards, on the one hand, they can draw lessons from the Japanese standards which are close to the physical fitness of our people; on the other hand, we can adjust the relatively backward detection methods and data information by means of informationization and technology. Some people said that the Japanese clothing standards are very strict, for example, the requirements for formaldehyde content in clothing, our adult standard is not more than 70 mg per kilogram, but Japanese adults do not exceed 20 mg, equivalent to the standard of Chinese infant clothing.

Besides garment quality, safety, appearance and function testing, apparel related industry practitioners also hope that clothing standards can be covered to a more complete industrial chain. Beijing Rongchang science and Technology Service Co., Ltd., responsible person said, because at the stage of garment production, there are no standards or related rules to suggest which fabrics can be used together and which are not recommended to use together. Therefore, when washing, there may be a part of the stitching style which can only be dry cleaned and the other part can only be washed. Or two kinds of fabrics will wear and fade after a long period of time. This also brings problems to the related industries such as washing and dyeing.

In addition, according to reporter's understanding, including product environmental testing, recycling a series of problems, at present, the country has not formulated a series of clear and strict standards.