Interview With Designer Hong Huang, Founder Of Brand Collection Shop BNC
< p > reporter: how do you think of starting a fashion magazine to sell a Chinese designer's clothing? < /p >
< p > < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/pioneer/ > > Hong Huang < /a >: This is the result of poverty. When I was a fashion magazine, I was very disappointed to see that Chinese fashion has always been dominated by foreigners. It is more and more like a special issue of soft news to report foreign brands and follow western values and consumption consciousness. We have to listen to New York, London and Milan. So they forced themselves to find content that had core competitiveness, and shifted the focus to Chinese designers. < /p >
< p > reporter: Chinese designers are always entangled in the contradiction between artistry and market? < /p >
< p > Hong Huang: even though they are reporting more about "Chinese design", they still have a distance from the real market. Design is most needed to be commercialized, and art can not be commercialized. I don't know why. In China, art is always commercialized, and design is always stuck in jars as artworks. If the design is to be commercialized successfully, it needs the support of the big environment, and the design that only hypes are difficult to keep up with the market will survive. < /p >
< p > reporter: do you feel like a businessman when you open a shop? < /p >
< p > Hong Huang: many friends who do business say that I will not do business. Because we never sign exclusive with designers. My friend once said to me, "you have to sign an exclusive, sign it, or you will go elsewhere if you do it." The principle of not signing the exclusive investment also makes the shareholders of investment both angry and helpless. But I think that Chinese designers are actually disadvantaged groups, and they sell too much to grow up. If we are the sole sales organization, they may have considerable business interests temporarily, but they are not very high ceilings for designers and industries. < /p >
< p > reporter: after the buyer mode, our profit margin is even higher? < /p >
< p > Hong Huang: Chinese designers have not yet realized how severe the test is to enter the commercial sector. Most of them are still dream oriented, artistic and self indulging in creation and decoupling from business. They do not understand that giving more profit margins will stimulate buyers to buy their goods. The discount gap between consignment and purchase is very large in foreign countries. This risk is still being avoided by our team's efforts and judgement. < /p >
Hong Huang, the founder of P, always felt that the designer belonged to a group of special literati. On the one hand, he hoped that the design would be able to exchange more market value, and on the other hand, he wanted to preserve the refined character as much as possible, so there were always various entanglements in the business field, and the process was extremely difficult. < /p >
P, near autumn morning, was quietly hidden in the BNC store on the ground floor of the northern part of Taigu square in Sanlitun. The ringing of the phone rang again. At the end of the phone came a voice from a designer who was just a designer. "How much should I do?" < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp > > autumn winter" > /a >
< p > there are many such consultations, such as "what is more popular this year", "should I make a blouse or a dress", and "how to make a more reasonable price"? BNC started with selling designer brand clothes, and patiently offered market suggestions to artists who were almost insulated from the market. < /p >
< p style= "text-align: left > > strong >" mature business environment, designers are too different "< /strong > /p >
P, known as < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > BNC < /a >, was founded three years ago, and its Chinese was ridiculed by Hong Huang as mint glutinous rice onion. In fact, its initial idea was a very atmospheric idea: BRAND NEW CHINA. < /p >
< p > once focused on fashion magazines, but Hong Huang didn't notice the local designers at the beginning. In the absence of initiative in domestic fashion and running in Europe and America, Hong Huang wants to find the core competitiveness of his own content. In 2005, the Biennale of Shenzhen, designed by architect Zhang Yonghe, inspired Hong Huang. It was in that exhibition that she saw the works of several local designers. "It was so shocking that I didn't think that China had its own designer." It immediately decided that the magazine should be spanformed completely into Chinese design. "When many famous brands in the world saw us seeing the corner in the local design, they all supported it. At that time, only the advertisements for cosmetics were removed, but those advertisements that focused on culture and independent opinions still remained. This power is a prerequisite for supporting our" road ". < /p >
Less than P, suffocating things are coming. "The report feedback is pretty good, but we don't know where to buy their clothes. Customers will ask the eighty-seventh page designer is really good, where can I buy it? "Hong Huangxing hurriedly contacted the designer. The designer replied simply, stubbornly, and quite simply, "let him phone me." No shop, only studio, and studio in the remote outskirts of Beijing. By this step, Hong Huang has been able to conclude that this thing can't be sold, "because no one likes a thing and likes to drive to the suburbs." In the mature business environment, in the era of more and more service oriented goods, designers are too different, no sales platform is hard to promote. < /p >
< p > < strong > "buyer is inaccurate, we are the Business School of the designer" < /strong > /p >
< p > for designers who haven't opened shop, the role of BNC is the "noble person" who is in line with the market. It's like from Lord of Paris to Lafayette, Hongkong. A good buyer team looks for designs from all over the place and integrates them into a complete style to make you look like him. Gerard Gugen has been a style director for Lord Buddha for ten years. He has always stressed the idea of "merging" and integrating various "seemingly contradictory" things into an idea. < /p >
The first shipment of < p > BNC is actually based on the popularity of the magazine. Before doing shop, Hong Huang's fashion magazine has reported that Chinese designers are almost ten years old, leaving behind very reliable designs. After their first batch of shops, designers constantly volunteered. BNC will specially evaluate the design, maturity, quality and technology of the designer, and make a comprehensive evaluation and decide whether to cooperate or not. < /p >
< p > what exactly is the concept of BNC? Hong Huang did not draw a clear frame. "The buyer is inaccurate. We have done too much work outside the buyer's hands. This is the Business School of the designer. The newly arrived designer will come to inquire about what kind of style should be popular, and what kind of price should be reasonable, how much should be done at a time, and whether to make a coat or a dress in this season." < /p >
< p > < strong > "first make the cake bigger and think of yourself again" < /strong > /p >
After P three years, BNC gradually shifted from "consignment" to "buy goods". Because consignment profit is limited, mass production means benefits, but designers do not produce too much when judging bad market. Once replenishment is short, the best selling period may be missed in a week, and new products will become inventories. If you see the designer's next spring and summer work, you will be required to have the size and quantity of the order directly, so the designer has the prior financial support, and the production is more fundamental, so the market can be bigger. < /p >
< p >, however, BNC shop never signed exclusive agreements with designers, and did not avoid "red hot" designers. < /p >
< p > business needs sustainable business. "After all, we are not charitable, but I can be proud of this stick." There are more designers waiting to board the stage. Hong Huang opened the shop without doubt and helped them very well, giving them the chance to accept the test of the market. This is more exercise than designing countless "desk works". Now, "peppermint glutinous rice scallion" has thrown them into the commercial world, and at the same time, the market that has grown rapidly with them is experiencing unprecedented prosperity. On the second day of the exclusive interview, BNC entered the Jingdong in a high-profile manner and launched the first batch of thematic homemade clothing "Republic of China Fan". < /p >
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